4x600 room
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- Start date
The flood/drain is modded a bit.
I don't have the anti-siphon hole where the fill pipe comes over the barrel edge. Instead, I extend the plumbing right to the ceiling, where the pump doesn't have the guts to get the water up to.
The water enters around the edge of the control bucket, quietly.
The drain pump is a central heating unit. Silent, and opens a non-return easily so the return pipe can stay underwater in the main barrel. No siphoning or noise. It draws off the bottom of the control bucket using a 90 bend. Where an emergency priming pump can be quickly added, if the heating pump runs dry.
The pots have the pipes extended to the middle, away from roots circling the bottom. The pipes natural bend is used to keep off the bottom where roots could enter. The end is slash cut so dropping roots don't find a way in so easily. Even them.. a net curtain wire is occasionally sent in from the control buckets. All pots stand 2" off the ground so the inner pot is out the water when it's drained down.
The electronic have been swapped for a timer based system hidden inside. Externally, it's standard kit, but if a pump runs, then it runs for a pre-set time that is adjusted internally. This stops bobbing floats from switching the pumps rapidly. If the water level is going to change in the control bucket, it's by 10mm at a time. Or the lot.. obviously.
I don't have the anti-siphon hole where the fill pipe comes over the barrel edge. Instead, I extend the plumbing right to the ceiling, where the pump doesn't have the guts to get the water up to.
The water enters around the edge of the control bucket, quietly.
The drain pump is a central heating unit. Silent, and opens a non-return easily so the return pipe can stay underwater in the main barrel. No siphoning or noise. It draws off the bottom of the control bucket using a 90 bend. Where an emergency priming pump can be quickly added, if the heating pump runs dry.
The pots have the pipes extended to the middle, away from roots circling the bottom. The pipes natural bend is used to keep off the bottom where roots could enter. The end is slash cut so dropping roots don't find a way in so easily. Even them.. a net curtain wire is occasionally sent in from the control buckets. All pots stand 2" off the ground so the inner pot is out the water when it's drained down.
The electronic have been swapped for a timer based system hidden inside. Externally, it's standard kit, but if a pump runs, then it runs for a pre-set time that is adjusted internally. This stops bobbing floats from switching the pumps rapidly. If the water level is going to change in the control bucket, it's by 10mm at a time. Or the lot.. obviously.
When out on the stage, the brackets for the next time are positioned. Hence two sets.
The feed bottle hanging up is an acoustic dampener for the air pump.
Lights on pulleys.
Fully Mylar walled.
The air passes through the tank area, before entering under the mylar door cover. The cover finishes 200mm from the ground to achieve this. Here the air is passed from fan to fan, around the floor. Where it must come up through the plants from. To another set of fans, taking the air around in the same direction. A bit like setting up a gentle whirlwind. So all the air has reason to move, and no apposing fronts.
The feed bottle hanging up is an acoustic dampener for the air pump.
Lights on pulleys.
Fully Mylar walled.
The air passes through the tank area, before entering under the mylar door cover. The cover finishes 200mm from the ground to achieve this. Here the air is passed from fan to fan, around the floor. Where it must come up through the plants from. To another set of fans, taking the air around in the same direction. A bit like setting up a gentle whirlwind. So all the air has reason to move, and no apposing fronts.
Palindrome
King of Schwag
Looking really nice, I like the idea with the stage part.
Im guessing it's for moving around, managing the canopy once the room have been filled with plants?
Im guessing it's for moving around, managing the canopy once the room have been filled with plants?
Thank you.
Yes, I wanted to make good use of the space, but keep it accessible. The first net was 100mm squares, and quite low. With no shoes on, you can get your foot through 100mm squares, and walk around still. It's a bit of a 3 legged race, but from a few standing positions, you can train it to fill. While putting in the second net. Then I just let them come up from the first through the second, during the stretch. The stage might get used 3 times. The first around 10 days in, to ensure a good fill. Then again around 20 days for final positioning. Then again around week 4, when I finally accept I need a 3rd net, and should of flowered them sooner
Edit: The whole thing is free standing. Only the ceiling was affected, with the addition of the two holes.
I make the holes with a hole saw, after marking North with a pencil. So that I can put the same bit of board back in, as most ceilings are not perfectly flat, like a new bit would be. This circle I remove has a batten attached, using the hole the cutter makes in the center. This batten makes dropping my circle back in easy. I then get some thick screws, maybe 3 of them, to temporarily screw into the gap. So that one side of the screw is cut into the ceiling, and the other into my circle. Like 3 wedges to hold my circle perfectly. I can then fill the gap with ease. Remove the screws. Fill again. Then paint the ceiling with crack covering paint (paint loaded with plaster) so the only marks seen are from the applicator.
Yes, I wanted to make good use of the space, but keep it accessible. The first net was 100mm squares, and quite low. With no shoes on, you can get your foot through 100mm squares, and walk around still. It's a bit of a 3 legged race, but from a few standing positions, you can train it to fill. While putting in the second net. Then I just let them come up from the first through the second, during the stretch. The stage might get used 3 times. The first around 10 days in, to ensure a good fill. Then again around 20 days for final positioning. Then again around week 4, when I finally accept I need a 3rd net, and should of flowered them sooner
Edit: The whole thing is free standing. Only the ceiling was affected, with the addition of the two holes.
I make the holes with a hole saw, after marking North with a pencil. So that I can put the same bit of board back in, as most ceilings are not perfectly flat, like a new bit would be. This circle I remove has a batten attached, using the hole the cutter makes in the center. This batten makes dropping my circle back in easy. I then get some thick screws, maybe 3 of them, to temporarily screw into the gap. So that one side of the screw is cut into the ceiling, and the other into my circle. Like 3 wedges to hold my circle perfectly. I can then fill the gap with ease. Remove the screws. Fill again. Then paint the ceiling with crack covering paint (paint loaded with plaster) so the only marks seen are from the applicator.
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That was the extract. In the loft above. Where I also had my drivers in a box, to preheat the incoming air a little in the winter.
It was clay pebbles yes. Flooded every 4 hours. Which took about 20 minutes with my alterations. It was some time ago now. I took the pics as the room was taken down. So there is no diary coming. Just that one random ~4 week pic, and I'm not sure why I took it.
I don't really take pics, except for my outdoor. Which is a year after year comparison. So I can get up, check the weather, know exactly what to wear, and how they should look.
I like to use 2x2 (actually it's a touch off square at 48mm by about 52mm here) and roofing lat which is 18x36mm. Wood glue, and 3.5x35mm screws.
If you can't fall on it without knocking it down, someone will fall upon it. A friends missis took out one corner pole of his 1.2 tent when she was pissed. Thankfully, his carbon was in the loft space. Or it would of been a right mess, with fire a distinct possibility.
The 2x2 could be smaller, but provides a 48x36mm contact patch for the lats to glue in place. So you don't really need any triangulation, to keep it square. Though I have some up high anyway, to keep this build off the walls when I was literally climbing about on it
If you can't fall on it without knocking it down, someone will fall upon it. A friends missis took out one corner pole of his 1.2 tent when she was pissed. Thankfully, his carbon was in the loft space. Or it would of been a right mess, with fire a distinct possibility.
The 2x2 could be smaller, but provides a 48x36mm contact patch for the lats to glue in place. So you don't really need any triangulation, to keep it square. Though I have some up high anyway, to keep this build off the walls when I was literally climbing about on it
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