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A Journey into Grafting

mushroombrew

Active member
Veteran
Been so damn busy around here I haven't had time to "play"

The last batch in a dome did well. I'll get some pics up asap!
 

mushroombrew

Active member
Veteran
I am thinking about using silica crystals/gel to keep everything moist. The last round did not take in the dome. So the score is 1 win 12 losses.
 

zif

Well-known member
Veteran
Just a couple of thoughts.

I see >90% success using simple cleft grafts. I think that it allows such a fast operation that it works better than the much fiddlier v-graft. Omega grafters are okay for thick stems, but suffer from the lignification and tough fibers often found there.

No need for whole plant humidity - 'though bagging above the graft is critical. I think active photosynthesis below the union is helpful to the scion, and have success in a space that's otherwise ~80F and 35% relative humidity.

It's far easier if the rootstock and scion tissues both remain soft/flexible. A rootstock that pumps sap instantly when cut is ideal.

And rather than use elaborate clips or wraps, I find that simply pinching a length of scotch tape around the graft works incredibly well (i.e., so that the sticky side meets on one side of the union). It's easy to apply a tight pinch to bind the union, and as the graft/stem swells, it'll shed the tape on its own!

Oh, and only one side of cambium needs to match, but at least one side absolutely must match. So different stem calipers are fine, but the lignification issue seems to limit very high % success with larger calipers, especially matched to much smaller scions. For cleft grafts, anyway.
 

BombBudPuffa

Member
Veteran
Just a couple of thoughts.

I see >90% success using simple cleft grafts. I think that it allows such a fast operation that it works better than the much fiddlier v-graft. Omega grafters are okay for thick stems, but suffer from the lignification and tough fibers often found there.

No need for whole plant humidity - 'though bagging above the graft is critical. I think active photosynthesis below the union is helpful to the scion, and have success in a space that's otherwise ~80F and 35% relative humidity.

It's far easier if the rootstock and scion tissues both remain soft/flexible. A rootstock that pumps sap instantly when cut is ideal.

And rather than use elaborate clips or wraps, I find that simply pinching a length of scotch tape around the graft works incredibly well (i.e., so that the sticky side meets on one side of the union). It's easy to apply a tight pinch to bind the union, and as the graft/stem swells, it'll shed the tape on its own!

Oh, and only one side of cambium needs to match, but at least one side absolutely must match. So different stem calipers are fine, but the lignification issue seems to limit very high % success with larger calipers, especially matched to much smaller scions. For cleft grafts, anyway.
I'm going to have to disagree. You get a better graft union when your root stock is more on the dry side. Ime you don't want sap leaking from the root stock.
 

mushroombrew

Active member
Veteran
Interesting. I watered mine beforehand. They were all oozing. Do you think that may be why I am getting graft failure?
 

zif

Well-known member
Veteran
What kind of graft? I’m surprised that’s your experience!

After dozens of failures, I won’t even bother with attaching the scion if I don’t get oozing. But I’m working toothpick to bamboo skewer thin rootstocks with matching scions. I like to have at least ten varieties on each plant going to maturity, so I work lots of young/tender branches.

I'm going to have to disagree. You get a better graft union when your root stock is more on the dry side. Ime you don't want sap leaking from the root stock.
 

BombBudPuffa

Member
Veteran
What kind of graft? I’m surprised that’s your experience!

After dozens of failures, I won’t even bother with attaching the scion if I don’t get oozing. But I’m working toothpick to bamboo skewer thin rootstocks with matching scions. I like to have at least ten varieties on each plant going to maturity, so I work lots of young/tender branches.

Maybe that's where our experiences differ. I prefer stock and scions that are more woody. I'll give your method a try and see how it works. Thanks for the idea.

I prefer the wedge/cleft graft btw.
 

zif

Well-known member
Veteran
A seven scion plant ready for more (at ~5" tall, 8" wide). A few tape 'flags' are visible, and a few can be guessed by leaf form. Make a good map of the plant, or whatever system you're keeping track with will surely fail when you get up to a dozen or more varieties on your rootstock! These are 6-10 days from grafting, and all about to shoot up:



A sex check of a SamS Thai/Haze x Skunk #1 on a Schnazzleberry #3 plant. She went on as a 3/4" scion on the day of flowering. Now is a 6" tall mini haze. Took almost a full month longer to show any flowers than the rootstock, which is a keeper that occasionally gets flowered with only a tester scion or three grafted on!

 

zif

Well-known member
Veteran
Thunk and schnazzleberry #3 @ 13 weeks:

picture.php


Er - not much schnazz left. She's well into a (stinky as hell) cure.

I left the 'flag' in place on this one. Doesn't seem to make a difference.

The thunk has nearly doubled in height and much more in girth since. Still only 10" of mini haze goodness:

picture.php


Oddly lovely, sweet carrot and (cheap) 1980's women's perfume scented haze goodness, that is.
 
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