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Old 12-15-2017, 06:47 PM #51
bucketgirl
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Thank you for your response! Salts ordered...gearing up for the next run in a week or two.

May I ask for some elaboration on your drip irrigation setup? I am converting a 4x8 flood and drain table to drip and have a couple different ideas of how to go about it.

Basically, my primary plan is replicating the setup here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRQXE_-YpUw

and similarly here as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kp3ish6Nvx8

It will be a bit of a challenge to construct this manifold given my skill level with this sort of thing, but I really like the design. My question is, do you think there is a simpler way of going about have even flow for 18 sites? I see your setup utilizes the inline valves and top hat grommets with a pvc grid. How's that working for ya? And what the heck is that cat litter bucket next to your rez for...drainage for the condensation from A/C?
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:27 PM #52
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Please forgive me for double posting...I am not allowed to edit my posts. I have some new issues popping up with my formulation for dry salts.

For Absolem and others with an interest, please see attached for the veg formula I have come up with (flower formula would just add or remove calnit / pk boost). The actual amounts of each salt added to achieve this are not included as that is unique to compensate for the levels of my tap water, buy you can see on the "Input" column what I am looking for and the "Output" column for what I can actually do. These were generated via saltsmarts.com. I came up with these numbers by piecing together information on the forums and comparing to recommended levels for tomatoes.

I'm running into an issue with not having enough Sulfur as I use this element for my degree of freedom in order to accurately achieve N, P, K, Mg and Ca numbers. I could increase Mg or K to up my sulfur (via potassium or mag sulfate), but it would throw those numbers out of whack.

Additionally, I am a little unsure on ideal Fe levels.

I'm wondering what your opinion is on the importance of hitting a particular level of sulfur and iron, and whether not in the case of sulfur it's worth adjust Mg or K to do so.


Thank you for your time, Absolem.

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Old 12-17-2017, 09:54 PM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucketgirl View Post
Thank you for your response! Salts ordered...gearing up for the next run in a week or two.

May I ask for some elaboration on your drip irrigation setup? I am converting a 4x8 flood and drain table to drip and have a couple different ideas of how to go about it.

Basically, my primary plan is replicating the setup here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRQXE_-YpUw

and similarly here as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kp3ish6Nvx8

It will be a bit of a challenge to construct this manifold given my skill level with this sort of thing, but I really like the design. My question is, do you think there is a simpler way of going about have even flow for 18 sites? I see your setup utilizes the inline valves and top hat grommets with a pvc grid. How's that working for ya? And what the heck is that cat litter bucket next to your rez for...drainage for the condensation from A/C?
Hi BG

The manifolds in those videos are very impressive. I think with all you have done on the salt research you can easily replicate any manifold you like.

What I've found is when I had a even flow to each plant I would use more nutrient solution then needed. Plants vary on their feed uptake caused by many factors. Unless you install a pressure valve the flow to the plants will vary depending on how full your stock tank is from the water level alone. The reason I put the ball valve close to the drip ring is to have full water pressure at the ball valve to control the water flow. If you put the ball valve on the manifold then each one should be fully open to get the closest one can to a even flow. If you try slowing the nutrient solution to a plant with the ball valve at the manifold there won't be enough water pressure to push the nutrient feed several feet to get to the drip ring in any constant manner. Not sure if that makes sense.

Honestly the top hats I use are a pain. The top hats work great if you use the hard tubing with a ball valve at the plant to control the feed. I should have used a male 1/2" threaded stem attached to the manifold to hook the 1/2' line too instead of the top hats. LOL the cat litter bin is for the drainage from the trays. There is a sump pump with a float valve in it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bucketgirl View Post
Attachment 439124

Please forgive me for double posting...I am not allowed to edit my posts. I have some new issues popping up with my formulation for dry salts.

For Absolem and others with an interest, please see attached for the veg formula I have come up with (flower formula would just add or remove calnit / pk boost). The actual amounts of each salt added to achieve this are not included as that is unique to compensate for the levels of my tap water, buy you can see on the "Input" column what I am looking for and the "Output" column for what I can actually do. These were generated via saltsmarts.com. I came up with these numbers by piecing together information on the forums and comparing to recommended levels for tomatoes.

I'm running into an issue with not having enough Sulfur as I use this element for my degree of freedom in order to accurately achieve N, P, K, Mg and Ca numbers. I could increase Mg or K to up my sulfur (via potassium or mag sulfate), but it would throw those numbers out of whack.

Additionally, I am a little unsure on ideal Fe levels.

I'm wondering what your opinion is on the importance of hitting a particular level of sulfur and iron, and whether not in the case of sulfur it's worth adjust Mg or K to do so.


Thank you for your time, Absolem.

View Image

Nice work piecing together your nutrient solution profile. I like your numbers.


I do think your S level is low. Sulfur really helps with the flavor.
Shoot for somewhere around 50 ppm if you can. Can you lower your potassium nitrate then supplement the lost N by using magnesium nitrate? The little extra Mg won't be a problem and it shouldn't take much. Then use potassium sulfate to increase the lost K and that will increase you S level too.

On your micro's.
Fe Input and output are good.
Zn Input is good. Output number is high.
B Input is high. Output number is good.
Cu Input is good. Output number is bit hot.
Mo Input is a bit high. Output is really hot. Try lowering to .03?

Great work on all the research you have done.

Cheers and happy growing.
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Old 03-18-2018, 07:07 AM #54
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Wow how did I miss this thread, looking good Absolem
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:05 AM #55
bucketgirl
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Thanks again

Hi Absolem,

Gearing up to do another run...was firing up Hydrobuddy to formulate a new mix and I just wanted to stop by and say thanks again for sharing your method. I've seen you mentioned here and there but I get the impression that very few are able to appreciate you laying it all out. You've helped me grow in both understanding how to utilize dry salts and also helping me discard all the snake oils. Hope all is well in Absolemland.
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:12 AM #56
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some pics...

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Old 09-21-2018, 09:29 PM #57
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Good looking flowers and plants Bucketgirl. Great job on your use of dry salts and your nutrient profile.

Been super busy building a new facility. 16k watt flower room and a 6k watt veg room. Should be able to have everything moved in within a month. Once in there I'll get some pics posted.
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