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46 years latter ...

Tazz11

Member
I almost forgot one of the best details of this grow room design .. see the screen .its 4 inch but it is one piece and hangs down on wire . when the grow finishes the lights are as far up as they can go . so I cut off the harvest and then rise the screen all the way up to the lights . I have a float light in the room so I can turn the grow lights off . this lets me re set the buckets clean them and re load them and then just lower the screen back down to the right height and then lower the lights again .. so I never remove the screen from the system ,its like a large printing press .. harvest ,clean and reload ... talk about easy ....this is a great design ...and nothing can SCROG faster !....lol
 

Tazz11

Member
The Efficiency Factor

The Efficiency Factor

many here as well as all over the world look to find the perfection and skills to be the next best grower of breeder or find the or design the best strains in the world .. the joke is on you . after 46 years I and my friend MH set down and talked about this today in detail and we came up with a guide line of what we call The Efficiency Factor


the most important thing any grower or breeder can know before he or she takes on any of the above skills .. the debate center around the skill of the breeders and growers , and we noticed one thing in all the cases debated .. the Efficiency factor of the persons grow area ...now you can debate environments lighting and strains till you are blue in the face but the efficiency factor is the fundamental defining point of any grow or breeding op ....


I will out line my efficiency factor to give you a idea of what it is and how it works ...


every grow is different ! every grow area has its own efficiency factor and that changes with the person that controls it ... no two growers or breeders are 100% the same .. they can both reach a 100% efficiency factor and grow two totally different ways with the same strain in the same grow space ...


in my case I have a limit of 52 Inches the height of the 5 gallon buckets and with the random height of the SCROG net ..


so there is a set difference between one grow to the next and anything out side that range is beyond the efficiency factor...


it is up to the person to define the strains selection and details of his grow space vs breeding area , the efficiency of the space to reach the highest qualities and purities and harvestable products from the given space ..


to totally under stand the types of cannabis and hybrids with in his control and to record or know first hand the values of their effectiveness in any condition define his abilities to isolate and make use of the efficiency factor of his grow or breeding space


you can have the best strain ,the rarest strains , the best grow space ,the biggest hydro set up . the best soil money can buy . but you still must define your Efficiency Factor ...


you can have 20 years under your belt or two weeks .. with out knowing or under standing what your Efficiency Factor is and how to control and isolate it .. your wasting your time and money ....


the strain dose not matter ,


when dose the strain reach 100% .?


what makes that for you .... ?


how will you know when the strain is 100% ?


what can you do to get the given strain to reach 100%?


can you control the efficiency factor from one grow to the next ?


what makes one strain reach the 100% and another not reach the 100% ?




so many growers and breeders change so much they fail to reach the efficiency factor peak in any of their grows


what is the ratio of efficiency in your system and can you control it ...or isolate a stable balance of efficiency factor in your own grow space ...?
after a 2 hour talk in detail these are the most important things we debated ...and at the end we define the Efficiency Factor to be the focus of all cannabis cultivation... no matter what type or where it was grown ...


stop next time you are in your grow space . stop and look around you look at the space as if you were the plant and look to see what will give you the best Efficiency Factor in that space ...


the rest will be a total waste of your time if you don't do this before you start ...Efficiency of your space and skills define the out come of your grow room not some one else's,,... this debate was for everyone even you .. I don't care if you have rare strains or a big warehouse full of top quality lights or a back yard of prefect soil ... it all comes down to The Efficiency Factor !
 

Tazz11

Member
how dose efficiency effect your grow or breeding op ... if you under stand how your environment changes with the seasons and it is effective for some strains and not others ,... or how are the strains effected with in your skill level .. are you your own worst enemy in side your grow room ... or out ... pin pointing and locating anything that has a effect on your grow is what define the efficiency . it is often a chain of mistakes be they so small or not ... but as IMHO the size of the mistake can have very little to do with the effects it causes to the growth rates and ratio with in a grow cycle ...things you don't even see can effect your efficiency .. like PPM and PH and water temp drift ... room temp vs water temp in a hydro system .. how do I know this in happened to me ... in a cold season area , the floor would get cold and freeze the bottoms of the bags I was using only to stun the growth rates so bad I never got the full finish I could have , I saw this and switch over to a new floor and a full heated hydro system .. now that problem no longer effects the growth rates and the grow is " on point "...I have to say one thing I found that is a must in controlling your efficiency is the room temp ...now I found some cheap little thermometers , now you would think that would be crazy ,that something that simple could effect the over all efficiency of your bad ass grow space .. you would be correct ,it dose sound Crazy but it is 100% true !..


these little thermometers are high tech and work great to isolate cold spots and hot spots and dry or wet areas in your grow area .. they record the high and low temp & humidity where ever you put them .. making a grid and isolating the source can change your efficiency ...some times it is the simple things that effect your grow the most ... what dose efficiency look like and how can you use this to help improve your harvest ...., you ever go to a friends to smoke and find out he has had the same weed for weeks .. and then you go to another friends and he is out of weed all together , that's just how it can effect your grow area ....


when it takes two people 3 weeks to finish one bowl of weed your on point ! if you think your weed is bad ass and you can set down and smoke a whole bowl by your self your just fooling your self ...


there are out right killer weeds in the world some modern and many old school weeds .. a lot of people think the higher the THC the better the weed .. wrong ....!I have to agree with DJ short ... some of the best weed he has ever smoked was like 7 % thc he said .. I agree with that ...that's why I never tested Abducted 1399 ,, it just don't matter to me what it test . I care about the effects and high and taste ,how long dose the high last .. is it a full multi level high .. dose it have some create under tones ...I like a good THC as well but if I have to give up a well balanced strain for high THC .. then I just don't hunt for THC strains any more ..now I look for the building blocks of great hybrids and make the hybrids what I want them to be ... as long as the strains have a good clean efficiency to control their growth rates the heavens meets the earth and this is where I live ...
 
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Tazz11

Member
so what do you think makes a good grower or breeder..?


IMHO the best are multi strain growers and breeders . can grow anything . from bag seed to super hybrid to Land race Sativa .. if it is out there he can grow it with efficiency .. everything from high THC to Low THC unknown strains ...


he fears no strain because he has full control of his efficiency factors and yes he may run into a bad plant now and then . but don't we all ..?


the march goes on .. the future is full of great strains and some that are just shit no matter what you do to them ...




it is no longer about the seed banks . ..... or the race to the best new hybrid strains


or about getting high or having med weeds


IMHO now it is about enjoying the art of growing and breeding .. enjoying the strains and finding the efficiency factor that makes you happy with what you can do in the grow area .... smile now and then your getting higher and higher !




Stay Safe Stay Free !
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
observational intelligence

observational intelligence

The ability to recognise structure in everything and intergrate that.
Its how these factors relate
Almost like another dimension.

Understand what humidity is and atmospheric pressure
The dew point , and guttitation = water droplets from tips of leaves just before lights come on an indication of cell pressure and plant efficiency

Ive stood next to guys in the grow and mentioned certain observations yet they are blind to it.

Also from early days 40 odd years ago i made my own nutes
step by step improving /and along side organic soil in pots.
The bench mark was soil i found in an old orchard owned by an 85 yr old guy during ww1 and up to 1960 it had had pigs on the land hundreds of them in kent uk.

Close to that i had my outside grow 10 yrs plenty enough time to perfect conditions .
afghan x pakistani sativas just finishing flower at Nov 5th at 52 deg north
Noticing first year that a light air frost mid september will make botritis dormant.
Also the effect of back ground radiation from stones on the north side of my plot i piled up week by week year by year

Understanding brewsters angle and the incidence of black light when designing my reflectors

Knowing how disolved CO2 in nutient solutions in Hydro works
And that it will be equall to atmospheric concentration
And effect potency potential.
As will carbonates that are disolved in acidic nutrient solutions to form carbonic acid = carbon availble to roots.

None so blind as they that will not see! A
 
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Tazz11

Member
well said . I have a question for you .. do you find some plants or strains know more about the environments they are being grown in then we do .. my point is .. I once had a plant in a 5 gallon and put in on the floor but the plant was doing great but when I put the plant on a near by table top it faded some .. it knew it had been relocated and when I put it back it was like a pig in shit ! .. it knew .. how is the question .. I tested for everything but what caused it ...lol.
 

Tazz11

Member
in a custom hydro system with a grow & flow controller you mighty just plug the fill pump into a power cord and then plug your Co2 controller into the fill cord using a multi plug , this means when the bucket fills with water from the res . the Co2 feed into the bubbler and into the bottom of the bucket into a air stone . flat of course so the air stone is level with the 1 inch of water that is always in the bottom of the buckets this lets the Co2 feed the root only when the water fills in and shuts off when it drains , the Co2 fills the water and feeds roots and comes out the clay medium and under the plants around the stem .. stems are alive too ...
 

Tazz11

Member
next stage of Co2 in system feeding .. if your res is heated then the warm water that feeds the buckets with Co2 is also heated and the heat from the water temp makes the Co2 rise up and under the plants canopy and opens the molecules of the Co2 letting the plant in take it faster .....and forces and shock of cold Co2 to be almost none .... this means the plants only feed on Co2 when the system is filling and only when the lights are on ,because the Co2 monitor is plugged into the Co2 controller . so why have both this is why ....the reg on the Co2 just defines how much is given out to the system ... not when or if the room is already full of Co2 ... in this way you can control the environmental controller and feed it into the buckets only when the lights are on and only when the room needs it and only when the plants are being watered and are feeding to start their dinner time ... a little cool Co2 with one dinner is to be enjoy and the rewards are so tasteful ....
 

Tazz11

Member
maybe it is just easy to give a system sequence ...


first the light controller is triggered by a timer , the light controller can also run the fans .. so if the lights turn on the fans come on .. and if the lights come on the environmental controller is turned on by way of solar cell ,,, the EC runs the Co2 monitor an the reg runs the Co2 feed into buckets ,this way the Co2 reg feeds the Co2 to the air stones bubbler lines but the Co2 is run and controlled by both the Co2 monitor and the environmental controller and those are only triggered by the grow & grow controller .and a set of timers .


yes a fully automated system with 9 stages sequences with the room venting and room temp controlling systems and humidity ,21 custom DWC in a 5 by 8.6 ft SCROG space you have to be a crazy breeder and that damn good !


because no one in their right mind would even try this ....quality is number 1.... the rest is workable .....
 

Tazz11

Member
you want to know the real irony here . it takes a life time to learn the refine skills of the true master breeder but only about 6 hours of SCROG defoliation to total kill his back ...lol
 
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Tazz11

Member
Whats the lights you use??

Hydro or soil?
Hello Dog Star ..


I have twin 1200 watt LED china brand I got when they first came out .. they are red and blue spectrum ,I also have 6 x 1000 watt LED full spectrum, and I have both 600watt and 1000 HPS/MH


but I wanted to see how the two would do side by side . 600 HPS Apollo and one of the 1200 watt LED . it uses about 510 watts so they are very close and so far I like using both more then just ether one ...I don't see any real difference between the two other then you have to keep the LED higher up from the canopy they both work fine . but one thing everyone should look for in the Led is intensity they don't create a hot spot but they do make to much light directly under the lamp .. but you cant tell any real difference between the two other then that ...one the LED give off a little more heat in the room , because it has 6 fans , and the Apollo I hang from a hook with wire . this keeps it cool ... both work great and they work good together ... I was going to jump up to the 1000 but as long as you keep a good growth rate the LED will hold its own side by side ...


I am running 21 DWC in 5 gallon and I run a few fill in soil bags between the rows of DWC .. this lets me swap out a hermy if I get one and transplant a soil into the missing area .. works great ...


my system lets the SCROG screen go up to the lights so I can change out the harvest and reload the DWC .. I don't I got a few mothers flipping from one grow to the next but .. the quality is why I design it this way ...


as for soil I just use the pro mix


to be totally honest with you DOG Star . a 600 watt lighting is more then enough to grow good cannabis any thing beyond that needs more range between it and the canopy , but the true fact is good growth rates come from good control of environment and PH and if hydro . water temp and room temp ...you can feed them just about anything as long as you don't burn them ...till after the cure ...I think to many people want to sell lighting and make money and it is hard for the new guys to define what is really needed for good growth rates , I was running 2.5 -3 inches a day ..


but my system is full auto custom design ..I have a push pull system .. twin 55 gallon drums with a 1 1/2 inch pipe link between them with a cut off , what this dose is feeds tank #2 into the main #1,, say my ph in both tanks in 5.8 if I add feed and it goes up to say 6.1 when the system cycles the PH drops back to 5.9 because the two tanks counter each other ,so it is almost imposable to change the PH more then 3 points at a time ... and then it will drop again because the #2 tank will still be at a lower PH before it mixes when the two tanks level out together , see when I want to flush or lower with fresh water I close the cut off and flush tank 2...this will cut the ppm by half and lower PH by 1 or 2 points ..this system cycles 5 time in a 24 hour span .. I found it hard to control room temp in the winter time . so I went to the twin 55 to use a tank heater and now my water is always 68...as long as the roots don't get to cold the room can get to 48 degrees and have almost no effect of them ...so my choice of hydro or soil is based on my needs as a breeder to control the environment for multi strains .. not for yield but quality is off the scale ...if you can bring out the best in any strain the lighting or hydro or soil has little to do with it ...
 
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