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Old 01-06-2019, 01:52 PM #1
tree dawg
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flowering organic soil

what organic admements need to be add to soil to flower in
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:31 PM #2
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How complicated do you want to get?

You can find this info in stickies here on ic and places like KIS organics or buildasoil etc

Simplest stuff..Blood.. bone.. kelp.. dolomitic lime/oyster shell flower.. add less N than PK and make sure your pH is safely in range after you have cooked the soil but seriously im not repeating the whole list.. for simple check the organics for beginners and more complicated search for Dank frank's posts around here.
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:33 PM #3
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:34 AM #4
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I think Mr h.h is saying your soil should already be complete ... like before you plant.

Potash for flowering can be Foliar sprayed whenever you want. There's plenty of foliar products around but if you can ... find "Acadian" kelp and use that.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:50 PM #5
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Good soil results in healthy plants that can express themselves quite nicely without any additional additives.


That said I may use ash water for a shot of pottasium, if I have ashes. I'll do that anyway during the growth period.
I'm constantly feeding, adding to the soil, but only in micro doses. Like the wind blew it in. Pixie dust.
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Old 01-10-2019, 12:04 PM #6
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See that is an interesting tidbit that would have not come to light without this thread


I was told that topdressing takes place "in between rounds" i.e. after a completed flowering run, you remove the spent plant and plant in a new one and THEN you topdress, the idea being that you give back to the soil what the just removed plant had taken out of it.
Meaning you add all the nutrients you initially had in your soil mix, just more concentrated (without being mixed into additional soil).


And here we have h.h. saying he already starts topdressing in veg and just does micro doses, a little here and there and continues to do so all throughout the growth cycle.


This, to me, is an interesting proposition!


I have long felt that the former method leaves some things to be desired. I couldn't come to a conclusion yet because I had the buckwheat hull issues to eliminate first but I would imagine that my plants will be a bit hungry for nutrients in mid flower the latest and that the effects will be worse once I go into round 2 with the soil, even after topdressing all nutrients. That was just my experience in the past (although, like I said, buckwheat hulls ...).


I have since broken my head over how to counter this and previously had some success and considered continuing with aerated compost teas with EWC, kelp and krill (crab) meal.






Now instead of brewing ACTs every other week during flower and chalking up sickly plants in veg to being root bound, it might be smart for me to at least try h.h.'s method and simply top dress small amounts all throughout the plant's lifecycle.


I will definitely give this a try at least, provided I didn't misunderstand anything.






Another thing I believe to have noticed:
I have considerably upped (as in doubled - actually stopped measuring recently) the nutrient amendments in my soil mix from what was originally written in the "recipe". And have had no ill effects so far. On the contrary, I feel like my plants are happier for longer so far. Although something is definitely still off... Some plants do considerably worse than others and I always wondered if they just got less nutrient rich soil in their pots from me not mixing it enough or something ...
Or these plants are just phenos who require more feed/can use it ...


So I am developing a doubt about "overfeeding" the soil so easily. It seems like the soil, even in 5 gal pots, can balance out a lot of "overfertilising" and that it seems quite hard to actually burn the plants from too many nutrients in organic soil. In the past, as advised for beginners, I erred on the side of "too little" but now am tending more to err on the side of "too much"...
I mean Subcools "supersoil" and other recipes, definitely err on the side of "too much". I just went with coot's recipe and that one advices erring on the side of "too little" for sure.



Also: with h.h.'s method, I could adjust the nutrient amounts for individual plants. The one yellowing earlier from the bottom than the rest? Hit it with some more EWC on top for more N... etc.


I like this, will give it a try.


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Old 01-10-2019, 01:35 PM #7
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Made soil mix for hole ciclus,whithouth aerators,just soil and wormcatings..

hit inside food after 4th week of flowering.. you could top dress or add liquid
organic nutes.. if pots are big enough than no till is a good option to feed
your worms and they will give more food to plants that is fast avaible..

LT-94 low-temp processed fishmeal,northatlantic kelp,bat guano with higher P content,
use beneficial bacteries,also mycos on repot,will made your plants much healthier
and with bigger yields..

use organic honey or blackstreep mollasses to feed microherd.. aerate your waterings
when you give nute solution,that will raise number of bacteries that you will give
to rhyzo zone.. plants will be very happy with extra air for their roots..
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Old 01-10-2019, 03:33 PM #8
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Originally Posted by tree dawg View Post
what organic admements need to be add to soil to flower in
Neptune's Harvest 2-4-1 fish or high phosphorous guano tea.
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:31 AM #9
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My food sources are Krill meal (same as crab/shrimp meal by all accounts) which is 4-3-0 and Kelp meal which is around 2-0.5-2.
The rest is earth worm castings and rock dusts. Some Epsom Salt and Neem Cake sprinkled in.


In flower I topdress or water with aerated compost teas going light on the krill meal and earth worm castings and heavier on the kelp. Sometimes I topdress some potash from burned wood.
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:02 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h.h. View Post
Good soil results in healthy plants that can express themselves quite nicely without any additional additives.


That said I may use ash water for a shot of pottasium, if I have ashes. I'll do that anyway during the growth period.
I'm constantly feeding, adding to the soil, but only in micro doses. Like the wind blew it in. Pixie dust.
I mix up ash water often during the summer.

Well, ashes & high P bat guano, and a nitrogen source.

I find it works better if you HOLD YOUR BREATH, mix it, and let it sit 5 minutes.

Then come back, hold your breath, mix it some more.

If you wait till it's sunny to pour the mixture, you can see if there's any dust flumes rising.

It's good NPK, but you don't want to breathe that dust.
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