-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
What's the point of transplanting into a larger pot?
- Thread starter Hubbleman
- Start date
the root network gets better and stronger if you start with a small pot and gradually increase size as the roots fill out the available space, about 1 week before 12/12 you give the final size pot. if you start out in that one the roots will grow to the edge and start filling up from the outside inwards, they can also drown in too big pots. the exception to this are the auto strains, you want to start them out in their final pot. they hate being repotted once they are growing.
Excellent point, nothing gets past a six inch pot the hasn’t shown itself worthy. By worthy I mean female or good male traits.
Complete Noob
Member
The best method for transplanting in my experience is getting the seedling nice and situated within a one gal pot
Whether you use coco or soil is irrelevant. From the one gal you can literally go into whatever pot you desire
But they need that 2-4 weeks in the one gal to build a nice root ball. I personally go from one gal to a Lowe’s bucket, but for a few of my last plants I’ve gone to 20 gal tote,straight from one gal
Whether you use coco or soil is irrelevant. From the one gal you can literally go into whatever pot you desire
But they need that 2-4 weeks in the one gal to build a nice root ball. I personally go from one gal to a Lowe’s bucket, but for a few of my last plants I’ve gone to 20 gal tote,straight from one gal
Complete Noob
Member
I transplant based off roots, not really the size. I pick the pot up and look through the bottom holes and if I see white root then I know it’s time
Once its time you simply allow the plant to dry a little, which shouldn’t take long since the roots have filled the pot. Once you think it’s dry, just tilt plant sideways, or upside down if you must, the whole root soil combo should come out easily, in the shape of the pot. Then bury that.
If your plant is root bound you may have to tap the pot or squeeze the sides or squeeze the bottom. Try not to damage to roots, if you do it’s okay, just bury what you can instead
If the plant is stretched and long then this is the chance where you can bury the stem as much as possible, another reason why I like going from one gallon to Lowe’s bucket
Complete Noob
Member
Just don’t overwater your first time watering, a solo cup filled with water (maybe 2) should be enough at first. Gradually increase the water
Hubbleman, many opinions from very good growers. The risk to the roots and the shocked, stunted growth that can occur from transplanting. Is never worth the risk in my opinion. ( Why fuck around when you know where you're going?). I start my seeds in 35 and 45 gallon grow bags. There are no stresses from transplanting. I fill the bag with my soil and Amendments. Water and let the microbial life start a week before I germinate seeds. In center of bag I make a party cup sized hole and fill with starter mix.
When you're seedling grows out of the starter mix. It goes directly into your main soil mixture. No repotting, no stresses to plants.
If you're growing indoors, get some lights on them. In smaller pots you can crowd them together under one or two lights . I understand that, but I don't grow on the cheap.
I grow in a greenhouse now most of the time. I work my ass off at my job. Transplanting takes time that I don't have. Take two identical seeds, start one in a cup and transplant it three times. Start one as I described. I can tell you what method you will choose for all future grows.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year's!
In the end, some people enjoy every aspect of growing and have the time and desire for extra steps. Extra isn't a bad thing. Cutting corners at the expense of the plant is.
Happy growing my friend! Peace. MedDakotabis
When you're seedling grows out of the starter mix. It goes directly into your main soil mixture. No repotting, no stresses to plants.
If you're growing indoors, get some lights on them. In smaller pots you can crowd them together under one or two lights . I understand that, but I don't grow on the cheap.
I grow in a greenhouse now most of the time. I work my ass off at my job. Transplanting takes time that I don't have. Take two identical seeds, start one in a cup and transplant it three times. Start one as I described. I can tell you what method you will choose for all future grows.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year's!
In the end, some people enjoy every aspect of growing and have the time and desire for extra steps. Extra isn't a bad thing. Cutting corners at the expense of the plant is.
Happy growing my friend! Peace. MedDakotabis
M
MagusMan
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
That might be the case in plastic pots (left side) You will get the same results with fabric pots, not like what the pic on the right shows. I grow in 3gal fabric pots and the pot is full of "fine, fibrous feeder roots" as seen during post mortem.
That being said... timing is everything e.g catching them before they become root-bound ((starts to circle)(slows growth)).
M
MagusMan
thanks switcher56 i havent used fabric pots i will have a look
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
I have been using "rooting boxes" for years. Similar to fabric pots but, I used "embroidery thread holders" Plastic screens 10x12" with 1/8" holes. So when folks recommended their benefits it was a no brainer for me, having previously seen the results. Check out soil mechanics in my sig.
i 'experimented' a couple of grows ago... sdkush in a 5gall fabric pot , n a 5gall plastic pot - the results were.... the plant grew a bit better in the...plastic pot... they were both under the same light,fed the same/etc... pretty un-scientific....but....
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
Without witnessing the process, I do care to speculate that you needed to water your plants more in fabric pots than what you were doing. Plastic pots retained more "moisture". Don't get me wrong you can over water a fabric pot as well. So the results may have been skewed somewhat (moisture level was different between pots). The dryer one would periodically shut down.
All my girls currently get 1.5l every third day (W D D F D D W) but 1.5l was too much for one girl, she would go 2.5 days (watered on day 3 (too late IMO)). She receives 1.25l. Not a big change (1cup/250ml) but brought her in line with the rest of the group.
Hydro8
Member
A couple of things I didn't notice mentioned yet.
More soil soaks up more water.
The more soil and wet soil you have in your grow room the more chance of bugs and disease. Also it is believed by many that roots of plants put out chemicals that help prohibit disease and insects so if you keep more soil filled with roots it has a better chance of being healthy.
From my limited experience plants are stronger when the roots reach the edge of the easy root environment for a bit. If I let the roots show tru the bottom of the pot then transplant in a few days the plants usually seem to go on a growth spree. It seems like they pent up some energy when the roots are held back a bit.
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
Soil can be moist but never sodden. It's the latter that leads to problems. Off the top of my head fungus gnats, who seem to appear out of the blue, under soggy conditions.
