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Noreason's extractions
- Thread starter noreason
- Start date
Re-dissolving in etOH
Put some hours in the freezer and filtered again. The solution was clear but some fats still remain. A lot less however...
And after evaporating I collect a quite hard absolute
After melt it together with hot bath and took again at ambient temperature it remains hard and become soft with hands temperature.
Final weight is 1.8 gr starting with 13 grams flowers.
Put some hours in the freezer and filtered again. The solution was clear but some fats still remain. A lot less however...
And after evaporating I collect a quite hard absolute
After melt it together with hot bath and took again at ambient temperature it remains hard and become soft with hands temperature.
Final weight is 1.8 gr starting with 13 grams flowers.
I suspect that milk turbidity is water, got there by accident.
It worked during the injection. I can clearly hear the sound of butane exits from it, however, no really need to do it, a straight hole will be fine as well.
I think you're right! After thinking about it, it makes perfect sense. I used a solution of (etOH 95% and H2O 5%).
So some water was already inside the not pure solvent.
The first run, where the milky stuff was more, I used more solvent, so more water inside.
The second run, in redissolving bho, I used very little solvent, so there was less water.
However at now the final extract its somewhat between hard and soft, sticky but also vitreous, and maybe it is more easy to use with dabber and tipad than a piece that is very hard.
Ditto that.
Next one is raw bho from 13gr. of the same weed of the previous.
2x250 cans used, 2 hours and a half butane bath and final weight is 2,7gr.
I purged it for long time, and even lightly flame from the top all the balls with the butane torch and even worked with a dabber to pop all the little balls there are still gases inside.
So, what those balls are? Residual butane? Is this mean that with hot water bath butane can't be purged 100%? Or those gases are co2 released from decarboxylation?
Both extractions and a residual previous bho, still comparing to choice the best smoke
Crumbly
2x250 cans used, 2 hours and a half butane bath and final weight is 2,7gr.
I purged it for long time, and even lightly flame from the top all the balls with the butane torch and even worked with a dabber to pop all the little balls there are still gases inside.
So, what those balls are? Residual butane? Is this mean that with hot water bath butane can't be purged 100%? Or those gases are co2 released from decarboxylation?
Both extractions and a residual previous bho, still comparing to choice the best smoke
Crumbly
Those bubbles are residual butane, unless you got your temps up really really high co2 bubbles from decarboxylation do not form while purging at proper temps. Also whipping your oil over heat is not purifing it in any way. It's hard to get completely bubble free bho shatter/sap without the aid of vacuum, when I used to only heat purge my bho I could get it down to just a few bubbles sometimes completely bubble free by purging in very thin films over constant heat. With deep vacuum and constant heat it takes no effort at all to get bubble free oil.
How does that ice water hash smoke, hows the melt on it?
How does that ice water hash smoke, hows the melt on it?
beauty bro...water? wow!
Got it. So as one of my friend said, butane can't be 100% purged only with heat below the water boiling point.
But if I consider 45 minutes purge near 90° some decarboxylation should happens, considering the chart:
So some co2 should be released in the extract...
Actually, comparing each other, I prefer raw bho. After it became waxy it became smoother too, and flavor is very intense.
Purified bho, the one washed in etOH, is also smooth but it lost flavors, probably due to the double purging, wich means more heat and more volatile molecules evaporated.
It melts nice, enough pure to smoke it on a tipad without feel any bad smell. However it can't reach high and flavor intensity of bho
See this picture and notice it is bho, contaminated with gas bubbles.
On the left part of the picture you can see I tried to crash the bho with the dabber, and it did not melt regularly but it changed form, to become something like wax.
Doing this on all the extract I obtained this:
Apparently, using camera and microscope there are no bubbles in it, where initially there were a lot.
I think that braking raw bho in that moment, also breaks the little bubbles in it and let the gases evaporate into the air. For sure the gas can't go liquid, so where it goes if not in the air?
I thought about this because I felt the difference between and after, the smoke become smoother without changing flavors or its intensity.
What do you guys think about this? Am I wrong?
On the left part of the picture you can see I tried to crash the bho with the dabber, and it did not melt regularly but it changed form, to become something like wax.
Doing this on all the extract I obtained this:
Apparently, using camera and microscope there are no bubbles in it, where initially there were a lot.
I think that braking raw bho in that moment, also breaks the little bubbles in it and let the gases evaporate into the air. For sure the gas can't go liquid, so where it goes if not in the air?
I thought about this because I felt the difference between and after, the smoke become smoother without changing flavors or its intensity.
What do you guys think about this? Am I wrong?
I think you misread kind sir it's 94C 201F. If your purging your bho or absolute for that matter at temps that high you will loose alot of flavor and yes start to partially decarboxylate. The graph shows that even at 176F it barly decarboxylates at all, so if your purging at proper temps of around 110-135F, most of these bubbles will be residual solvent.
You can hold on to alot of flavor in absolute with a few tricks, for one you don't need to fully purge the intitial butane extraction and all boiling points are lowered under vacuum, alcohols boiling point is lowered to about room temp under -29.9hg so there is no need to get your temps up to alcohols boiling point of 173F. Allowing you to purge at the same temp you would your bho.
May I also ask the way you dry your fullmelt? I've been following mattrizes and selecta nikka t's technique for minute, they suggest once your puck has dried for about 24 hours and your able to pick it up and it's not sopping wet, he then uses a microplane to break it up into a fine almost indivdual resin head form, then lay it in a very thin spread out layer on parchment and allow it to dry in cool dry room with low humidity to avoid melting of the resin heads while trying to remove moisture. I don't know if he freezes it, but matt said he even gets his hands cold to help from the fullmelt from turning into sticky mess when trying to microplane it. Drying like this allows the resins to stay in there natural color alot longer and doesn't cause it to darken quickly because of access moisture degrading them drying in large pieces. Just a few tips I learned from following rizes technique mostly and thought I'd pass it on.
Check out there youtube channels, matts got some crazy melt shots these days, selecta does to, he recently posted a video of dabbing rosin!
Haven't made rosin my self in about two years, man that guy who first introduced that around here had some insane melt pictures. I might have to make some soon, have you ever tried making some with your hash Noreason?
You can hold on to alot of flavor in absolute with a few tricks, for one you don't need to fully purge the intitial butane extraction and all boiling points are lowered under vacuum, alcohols boiling point is lowered to about room temp under -29.9hg so there is no need to get your temps up to alcohols boiling point of 173F. Allowing you to purge at the same temp you would your bho.
May I also ask the way you dry your fullmelt? I've been following mattrizes and selecta nikka t's technique for minute, they suggest once your puck has dried for about 24 hours and your able to pick it up and it's not sopping wet, he then uses a microplane to break it up into a fine almost indivdual resin head form, then lay it in a very thin spread out layer on parchment and allow it to dry in cool dry room with low humidity to avoid melting of the resin heads while trying to remove moisture. I don't know if he freezes it, but matt said he even gets his hands cold to help from the fullmelt from turning into sticky mess when trying to microplane it. Drying like this allows the resins to stay in there natural color alot longer and doesn't cause it to darken quickly because of access moisture degrading them drying in large pieces. Just a few tips I learned from following rizes technique mostly and thought I'd pass it on.
Check out there youtube channels, matts got some crazy melt shots these days, selecta does to, he recently posted a video of dabbing rosin!
Haven't made rosin my self in about two years, man that guy who first introduced that around here had some insane melt pictures. I might have to make some soon, have you ever tried making some with your hash Noreason?
I think waxex are smoother due to the limited volatile loss result of whipping and heating.
Is a bit weaker in that scratched-throat feeling meaning its more pleasent and for some folks this means "better".
In my experience waxes are never as good as the oil they were derived from.
Te pics with the white layer on the oil is just water as other said, try 99% solvents to avoid it, pure acetone is damn nice and evaporates at lower temps than ethanol.
Dont take that graph as a bible, there are variabiles in it.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=13921&pictureid=605569
This is another one, and shows you decarb is minimal in the 100°c 120°c interval, in that experiment.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=13921&pictureid=605569
This is another one, and shows you decarb is minimal in the 100°c 120°c interval, in that experiment.
I'm not a fan nor suggest the making of Wax/budder/honeycomb or whipping to purge your bho. To each their own though. Even if you don't visually see solvent bubbles because of the opaqe crystalline texture of wax butane and moisture can be trapped with in the resins, and most of the time is if it's made by whipping oil that has alot of solvent still in it. While you whip and to try and purge the butane you are actually attracting moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. I prefer to to use no agitation and thin film vacuum purge at constant heat untill I have stable bubble free translucent shatter/sap.
I can only agree totally MH.
I think that finding names for all the forms oleoresins can be, has been a big profit for all the people selling it. The sad thing is i see a lot of people thinking wax is different from honeycomb, wich is different from moondust....and so on and so on. In fact it is just a fancy look wich makes the difference but the mere substance is the same.
And usually a worked oil is weaker in some aspects than a virgin one.
I think that finding names for all the forms oleoresins can be, has been a big profit for all the people selling it. The sad thing is i see a lot of people thinking wax is different from honeycomb, wich is different from moondust....and so on and so on. In fact it is just a fancy look wich makes the difference but the mere substance is the same.
And usually a worked oil is weaker in some aspects than a virgin one.
This question I constantly associated with another problem, from a completely different area.
I mean, Transformer oil purification of gases dissolve in it.
This treatment produced about the same as the degassing of primary BHO, by heating under vacuum.
Perhaps here also, gas is dissolved in the resin?
I can not give a clear definition of solubility of organic substances, I'm only interested layman.
