Do You Have Photos of Regular or Russet/Broad/Hemp Mites and/or Plant Damage?

Buddah Watcha said:

Just an update on my war.. I sprayed sulfur twice again since last post. I also defoliated whatever deformed leaf was present (to help keep track of future damage). Plants are starting to bounce back, no more deformed growth and leafs are nice and green. We shall see if I decide to do another spray or not... I suspect these fuckers are living somewhere on my veg cab, so I might just scrap it and build another one...

Anyways, sulfur seems to be working well. I hope I can win this battle soon, already a few months deep... but seems that we are having the upper hand.

Once I decide the sulfur is enough I will spray some Botanigard 3 times 2 days apart and a few days later release some Swirkiis and maybe even andersonis again...

Peace!

Click to expand...

yeah Botanigard works well, just very pricey
what sulfur you use??
thanks

these are my boyz








they work 24/7 just for the meal, no unions, free of charge, and when they're done all is clean they move away without bother

i was under the impression that using sulfur with sprays that use fungi like grandevo or botanigard wasn't advised because sulfur kills fungi and powdery mildew. i checked botanigard and it says not to use it "However, some insecticide formulations can kill the fungal spores, the active ingredient in BotaniGard ES. If you are going to use BotaniGard ES in combination with other pesticides, contact your dealer or Laverlam International Corporation for specific information."

thats why grandevo is suggested to be used with regalia for PM because regalia is a immunity booster and doesn't actually kill pm.

thanks thailer, sure im aware that sulfur would kill the spores.. for sure..
what i ment is maybe the wettable sulfur could be a nice and cheap alternative..
what the brand and the application rates?
many thanks

oh i meant for Buddah Watcha who was saying he was gonna use the sprayable sulfur and then use the botanigard after that. i just thought it might not be as effective in the beginning of the botanigard because the sulfur.

i haven't used sprayable sulfur other than Safer's 3-1 which kinda messes the leaves up. I have used sulfur burners: one made in holland and one grower's edge brand which is what's sold, dare i say exclusively in the USA. i used the growers edge less than ten times total on two different occassions for spider mites. the first time it worked and the mites were gone for a several months but i brought in old containers which i'm guessing maybe reintroduced them again? So I broke out the sulfur burner again and the second burn it broke.

i looked online for reviews and several people said also only worked a handfull of times before breaking. So i ordered a Nivola from canada that is made in holland. it has a lightbulb type of burner so if the heating element breaks, you can replace it for less than $50. it also works WAAAAy better than the growers edge models and the room was filled with smoke. however, the spider mites didn't care this time. the sulfur burner is much much more gentle on leaves. i have used it in mid flower before too and i personally didn't notice any bad tastes. i didn't use that bud for concentrates though. i'm not sure but maybe its the sprayable sulfur that makes the buds taste bad because vapored sulfur doesn't seem to cause any negative effects.

I think sulfur is still very effective for russet mites. a farm i worked at last year has russets and they used sulfur powder to dunk and spray with. i don't have the dosage to make the sulfur spray. luckily they never followed me back home.

Im across the ocean, so brand will probably vary. Just look for wettable sulfur... I follow the dosage on the back. It was 1 little package per 2 litters of water... I tried to go a little bit harder on the dose and I found it was very hard to spray it out... so I had to dilute it again.

In the us u can get it on amazon from Bonide, Micronized sulfur, 4lb bag for around 25 bucks! Very cheap that will probably last you forever lol just spray every 3 days or so for around a month lol thats what I had to do, and make sure to completely soak the plants...

And yes, Im aware botanigard might not work with sulfur, but at desperate times I will try everything lol. To be honest I'm not sure it made a difference applying the botanigard... I got it a generic brand from asia, was a lot more affordable I think it was around 30 bucks for a 2lb bag... look on ebay for beauvearia bassiana, thats the fungus name...

Just stick with sulfur tho, it works great and fairly safe, its organic too!

Peace and good luck, dont give up the fight! After you feel like you won the battle, release predator mites, swirkiis, andersonis and cucumeris! Hope that helps, this is the best info I can give you guys from my own experience. I battled these fucks a few times and nothing else works... besides Abamectic, but that shit supposedly stays on the plants for months... and it also sticks around your environment, and everything you will grow in there will be slightly contaminated... mostly if you are making concentrates...

so stop wasting time with other methods, this is the truth if you are battling these fucks.... $30 bucks plus invest on a good sprayer, a gallon sprayer with a handle is nice to spray under the leafs, look for the angled spray nozzle, makes it so much easier! plus another $50 bucks on predator mites and you can save your grow!

I was able to finish my flower cycle with only 1 sulfur spray in week 2 of flower, followed by the predator mites.... Not the best yield ever, but I have enough herb to last me till the end of next run, which is all that it matters!

anyways, hope I was able to clear it out, any questions, fire em away!

Peace!

And yes, sometimes the leafs can get a bit crinked, deformed and dry out from the sulfur, some strains seem easier affected than others. Do it with lights off or raise your lights... Also leaves a residue on the leafs, which it looks ugly but not a biggie...

Maybe you went a bit too hard on the dosage? Im not familiar with the brand, was it only sulfur in it or something else mixed in there (3-1 sounds like there are 3 products in there idk)

Anyways, I used these against cyclamen mites (i think thats what they were).. not sure of spider mites. Persimillis predator mites seem the most effective against 2 spot mites...

yeah, i keep getting them once a year or so... as im in the countryside... plus i bring in soil from outside.. it sneaks up on you, till you notice, they have caused substantial damage....
sure nowadays i spot them quicker and have a pretty good IPM... and now i also use predator mites. just never used wetable sulfur... im guessing once its micronized it can be mixed with water?
i have also noticed that if you add triacontanol in the first 2 weeks of flower, they will come around and flower as normal
apparently it just overrides the toxins and it doesnt show/harm them
chitosan in veg to activate SAR, same as Harpin or Asprin and then Tria for flower... the plant hormone that is in many boosters (apparently)

These where taken with my digital camera, I used a magnifying glass in front of the camera to get take these pictures. These are pictures of russet mites. The pictures are not zoomed in where you can see the details of each bug, they can be seen as specks on the leaves. The last 2 pictures are of the same leaf, a before and after picture.











The last picture is the same leaf/plant 2-4 hours later after treating the plant. I use a several step process. First I spray the plants down with water with dish soap, the more foam the better. I lightly spray the top of the plant, then I turn it upside down and spray the underside. I spray a mix of warm/hot water/dish soap/canola oil. I spray them the same way with the oil mix, but when I have the plant upside down I spray until it's been dripping for bit. I hold the plant upside down and let the oil solution drip. I let the plants sit for 10-15 minutes in the shower. I then spray them again with the dish soap solution, turn the plant upside down and spray. But now I go and take the shower hose and spray water onto them to wash the soap and oil off the plants and down the drain. I'l shake the plant a little to help shake some of the water off, I then let it drip dry. Plants will resumes normal growth after this.

wow, well done if this works, does it work everytime?


i mean i hope i m in no need to try it out but thanks for sharing.


i also heard about putting whole plant in warm/hot water to kill them.

andl said:

wow, well done if this works, does it work everytime?


i mean i hope i m in no need to try it out but thanks for sharing.


i also heard about putting whole plant in warm/hot water to kill them.

Click to expand...

I've been using this for years against spider mites. Although I've tweaked it a little for the Russet mites. So far it has worked every time, so I'd say it works every time. I haven't applied this to flowering plants or plants being re-vegged!

Dipping/dunking plants in water has been around for a long time. I haven't tried it against Russet mites. If you have small plants it would be easier to do then if you have large plants (2 feet or more tall).

Buddah Watcha said:

Yesterday upon inspection I saw a few more of them fucks...shit gonna spray some sulfur again today... maybe discard the most affected plants too since its some of my own seeds and I can pop more of them no problem..

Click to expand...

You need to spray every 2 days for broads or russets.

You also need to throw away all media and clone away from the moms IMO.

If you’re going to reuse your pots sulfur dunk them. Keep the sulfur spray from getting into the media or you will experience iron deficiency so be watchful of rooting cubes and if dunking the pots as suggested wash them out with the hottest water you can stand (120 if you got it).

Expect a 21 day life cycle, for example if they have a small leaf or food source in the room you didn’t see. So do not stop spraying for 30 days at 75*f 60% humidity.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPt-zXn05ac

"Russet mites prefer drier climates and breed more slowly in higher humidity."

https://www.conflabs.com/russet-mites-a-need-to-know-guide-for-a-microscopic-enemy/

Click to expand...

Maybe a combination of worm tea (humidity and microbes) and a day or so of high humidity will slow them down.

Here's my battle. The spider mite borg. This plant had it the worst.
You can kind of see their Web as well. Hate them.

Awesome! Thank you so much for sharing.

It's taking me so long to get to this article I expected the thread to die out. Kudos to you all for contributing and keeping it alive. Truly awesome!

Breadwizard said:

The spider mite borg

Click to expand...

not saying it is not a two spotted spider mite though looks too big to me


I would need a closer up look

I was under the assumption that it was a red spidermite, as they all have a red coloring. The picture was taken with a 20x loupe against the cell phone lens. I could easily be wrong though

Breadwizard said:

I was under the assumption that it was a red spidermite, as they all have a red coloring. The picture was taken with a 20x loupe against the cell phone lens. I could easily be wrong though

Click to expand...

Edit: Compare them to what you see online. Spider mites are very obvious should be an easy ID. IMO it’s a spider mite.