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Met52 for Root Aphid control

RockyMountainHi

I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with th
Veteran
I've been thru Botaniguard and Nematodes, and I'm still seeing the cursed yellowing 3 to 4 weeks into flowering. And I can still find R/A's but I get a harvest. Not one I'm proud of - but the best I can do, so far. And not a drop of chem base pestacide.

Biologicals take longer to knock down the populations - and regulary schedualed, repeated applications are essential.

Met-52 liquid in my rockwool and the Granular in soil backups. I've been wanting to go back to organic soil. Gawd I hope I don't regret this! lol

If I still have them in soil with the Met-52, I may shoot myself.

The Met granular looks like dusty green rice grains. Exp date on my liquid is Sept - 13 and I think the granular is June - 13 - I can check.
 

ballplayer 2

Active member
Any updates on your root aphid problems Granger or Rocky? How is the Met doing for you? I just innoculated a few gallons of soil in preparation for seed planting. I'm really hoping Met will provide good control, and perhaps with accompanying nematode and Botanigard treatments could go a long way to bountiful harvies. Thank you.

BP2
 

RockyMountainHi

I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with th
Veteran
The liquid Met-52 didn't cure the rockwool.

The soil plants haven't gotten to flower yet - it's about 2, maybe 3 weeks into flower, when the mystery deficencys hit.
I innoculated the soil about a month prior to using
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
RockyMtnHi,
What I've had really good success with is a 30 min. immersion in Cedarcide PCO Choice. It MUST be followed right away with a thorough pH'd water or lite nute flush. Otherwise you will have root damage. I have killed some plants that were totally critical when I treated. Following with root stimulator and foliar feeding for a few days is a real plus. The Cedarcide pretty well wipes them out, in the neighborhood of 99.5%+.

Then I start with the 1st Botanigard treatment which is a 30 min immersion. After that I water heavily with Botanigard every 2-3 weeks. Beginning of 12/12 I spray once with Azasol. Then I hit them with todes at least once during 12/12. I'm hoping the MET will eliminate some of this labor and expense.

I'm doing a re-design of my room that has turned into worst case major, so my next crop has been delayed. Will update with my results. Good luck. -granger
 
I used Bayer complete insect killer to take out ra's

You might as well get a tattoo on your head that says "I have no standards". This is a thread for root aphid treatment and prevention that doesn't include the use of harmful and dangerous pesticides. Bayer is banned several countries for a reason. Put your Bayer in a box and ship it back to them.

On a lighter note, I'm still holding onto some hope for met-52. You probably need this stuff to be well established before root aphids are introduced. Someone needs to perform an experiment with infested soil and do an aphid count several times over many months after an application of met-52 to determine how well it reduces aphid colony size. Infect a few plants. Let the colonies establish. Take a count of aphids. Apply met-52. Take a count every week. Repeat experiment using an establish met colony. Then introduce an infected plant and take counts from the initial. Input data into excel and make a dope line graph proving your reduction in aphids. Pretty easy to do if you're grower who already has an aphid problem. No risk I guess.
 
Sorry for missing the OP. If it was that dangerous the company should be taken to court for telling you that its fine for your kids and dogs to play on the lawn after it has dried...I only used it in early veg. Compost teas foliar spraying in early flower.

https://www.ogbiowar.com/foliar-pack/
 
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RockyMountainHi

I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with th
Veteran
Cap's packs - lol

yeah,, you could load up with Cap's, of you could brew some EWC tea and not have Cap's fillers on top of your rockwool.

The EWC tea is the shiznitz.

And just what I want - an unknown (to me) retailer that targets pot growers with my address.
 

RockyMountainHi

I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with th
Veteran
You might as well get a tattoo on your head that says "I have no standards". This is a thread for root aphid treatment and prevention that doesn't include the use of harmful and dangerous pesticides. Bayer is banned several countries for a reason. Put your Bayer in a box and ship it back to them.


and no atta boy for you either.



v
On a lighter note, I'm still holding onto some hope for met-52. You probably need this stuff to be well established before root aphids are introduced. Someone needs to perform an experiment with infested soil and do an aphid count several times over many months after an application of met-52 to determine how well it reduces aphid colony size. Infect a few plants. Let the colonies establish. Take a count of aphids. Apply met-52. Take a count every week. Repeat experiment using an establish met colony. Then introduce an infected plant and take counts from the initial. Input data into excel and make a dope line graph proving your reduction in aphids. Pretty easy to do if you're grower who already has an aphid problem. No risk I guess.

I vote for nachoconqueso, he seems to have a through understanding and most of a plan. Do I have a second?


About the liquid Met-52 liquid,, - it is a heavy, thick black fluid that is a bear to get to blend with water. - the Met and the water should be 80f or higher, and the factory's web site mentions use of a silicone base. surficant. That is what finally got a homogonized mixture for me.- and it's crazy better than dish soap. and I had been reading about increasing organic silicone can be helpful.

Probably from some silicone manafacturer.
 
jumped on the met train and thinkin ready to jump right back off. dont want to put this stuff down because it does kill root aphids, but the ladies were doing much better with the aphids. had a hell of time narrowing it down to the met too.

there is a mixed bag of plants that have/dont have met and plants that didnt are much more healthy, even with aphids. The met causes slow growth, yellow new growth, and crap roots. No aphids but crap plants. Think im gonna switch to a combo of merit 75 in veg and caps packs throughout flower. Thought this stuff was the magic bullet but in this case it was too good to be true. what sux is dunno whether to run this stuff or not cause if previously incoulated met soil meets new soil it could ruin the new soil. Not trying to get anyone off the stuff but def test it before you go all out, peace and if anyone else experienced this problem please let me know

this was purchased from rogue farmers and used at the recommended dosage of 6 grams per gallon of soil. Used in organic soil. whats even weirder is havent seen one bad report on the stuff hence going all out.

Same here. Applied at recomended rate, the green mold around the rice grains or the more fuzzy white fungus that I beleieve is the met52 strain is causing all the same symptoms you described, I went all out az well and really wish i didn't.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
I am using Met 52 currently and have had no problems so far. I'm going to mix coco/perlite 20% with Met this weekend and bloom out a crop. Will know more in the next 3 months, and will report. -granger
 

Mrminster

New member
met 52 does not work, held out hope for over a month now and my flower room has now reached critical. As soon as you bump ur nutes up RA's come outta nowhere and attack. Going back too the SNS-Botinigard - todes treatment schedule. DO NOT RELY ON MET too do the job.
 
met 52 does not work, held out hope for over a month now and my flower room has now reached critical. As soon as you bump ur nutes up RA's come outta nowhere and attack. Going back too the SNS-Botinigard - todes treatment schedule. DO NOT RELY ON MET too do the job.

It didn't work for me either!!!! What an expensive failure!!!

I finally just emptied out my veg room and bombed it.
Even this is no guarantee that there will be some sort of cross contamination until every room in this space is clear

I though about going the chemical route too, finally, but I just can't bring myself to do that
 

Aurora OG

New member
Hello everyone, been lurking here for a while and thought it was time I contributed.
I am not a pro when it comes to insect erradication as I have spent the vast majority of my 20 years indoors with flawless husbandry, preventative predatory releases and not bringing in outside genetics.
So I was given RA's by a friend that hitch hiked on some very exotic genetics that I simply couldn't resist and my usual quarintine protocals failed to take care of them. This was about a year ago and I have struggled to rid my gardens of them using Toads, Hypoaspis, Lacewigs, Lady's, Azasol, Green cleaner ( yea I know its for mites but if it kills broadmites what the heck...) and as a desperate attempt even Evergreen. The Evergreen knocked them down very well but had its own side effects and I dont care for chems of any sort so that wasnt the answer either. Four weeks ago I mentioned my problem to a local supply shop and was given a bottle of Met 52 ec and asked to report back to help him decide if it was worth putting on the shelves...
I had mixed results with one area being completely eradicated and the other two only showing a 75% recuction before the Ra's slowly returned to infested status. All areas recieved the exact same treatment of full strength Met ec mixed with a mild nute solution ( added met after solution was balanced w/o silicone ) and watered into my fairly dry soil/ coco mix untill COMPLETELY saturated. The only differance between the area that was erradicated and the other rooms was the erradicated area had all smart pots while the other two had emilys pots which have a lot of big holes all over and I suspect escape routes. This was based on a single drench application and I am sure that if I had enough met to spray the two failed areas that they likely would have been wiped out too. Currently waiting for my order of Met to arrive so I can re-try with a drench and foliar ( foliage, trays, floors, ect..) and continue to hammer these little bastards. I truly am convinsed this works and think that peoples bad results are because their Ra's didnt come in contact with this contact biocide...
As for the granular, I personally cant see using the granular as it is more expensive than the liquid per cfu and screw having rotting rice in my gardens. Has anyone tried soaking the rice and then straining it out and just using the solution?
I will report back in a couple weeks with my second round of testing in the other areas, I hope this can help those suffering
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
It's best to immerse the root ball/pots in the Met solution for 30 minutes. The area just below the stem [in the root zone] is really hard to get penetration of any liquid, and it is RA Central. I'd do the soak, then water heavily with it weekly for 4 week. Each time, do an area spray incl pots and bottoms of pots with something that will kill RAs like pyrethrum or Cedarcide or full strength Safer's Insecticide soap [don't skimp with dish liq.]. Good luck. -granger
 

who dat is

Cave Dweller
Veteran
*Bump* I broke down and ordered some MET52 EC and used it as a drench last night for the first time. Anybody have any luck as of late with this stuff? It's pretty nasty, greasy stuff to work with. Definitely not water soluble and get's a greasy film on everything it gets on. I need to follow up with top dressing food grade DE so they have to crawl through that stuff to get in or out of the cups. What should the intervals be for root drenching? Every watering until they're dead or every other watering? It would be nice to not have to spend all that time soaking all the containers but I will if I have to. I'd like to feed them as well so maybe drench, feed, drench, feed, etc.?

What are your thoughts Granger? Anybody else?

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Here are the victims after the Met52 EC drench last night.
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