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Yellow leaves with brown spots in Flower

Michael49

Member
I fed them some Roots Organic Buddha Bloom yesterday (more than I typically do) to try to increase the phosphorus.

I also used a little SLF-100 enzymatic treatment at the suggestion of a friend to try to help the roots.

I added a heater at night to increase the night time temps.

I'll see how they do over the next week.

I've got some Optic foliar spray on order and some Hydroguard as well.

Not giving up on them yet. :)
 

jidoka

Active member
The AN phosphoric is very strong. Out the bottle EC is 7-8 and EC is what burns, not pH. If you are using AN don’t spray below 0.5 pH
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The AN phosphoric is very strong. Out the bottle EC is 7-8 and EC is what burns, not pH. If you are using AN don’t spray below 0.5 pH

I have sprayed AN phosphoric acid on recently rooted clones at 0.5%. No problem. Maybe you had a problem with your water.

I will add that I have never applied more than this on cannabis. One grower contacted me and said he used 1% and added fulvic acid and it burned. Always test new things carefully folks!
 
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jidoka

Active member
RO water. I ain’t saying it don’t work...it does. I am just saying be careful. Exact numbers depend on a lot of factors. Under a pH of 0.5 I burned leaf on one grow but not another.

Total balance is what counts. And it is all over the map
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
RO water. I ain’t saying it don’t work...it does. I am just saying be careful. Exact numbers depend on a lot of factors. Under a pH of 0.5 I burned leaf on one grow but not another.

Total balance is what counts. And it is all over the map

At 0.5% AN phosphoric acid, the pH was 2.5 or so.

If you went to a pH of 0.5 you went way past 0.5% AN phosphoric acid. Any idea of how much you used to get to that pH?
 

jidoka

Active member
So what I am saying is ANs quality control sucks. One gal ec is 6, next one is 8. Concept is good...damn few ways to spray P. Just saying AN sucks period. Protect yo self

Edit...and no I did not. The problem is their quality control, not mine. We did multiple repitisions
 

Michael49

Member
Night Time temp up to 63 last night with heater vs 58 without. Forgot to mention that I gave them a bit of CalMag as well.

Now I'll let them dry out over the week. Fingers crossed.

I'll try some of the Optic foliar spray on a few leaves once it arrives.

Also, as mentioned above, I did use a bit of SLF-100 enzymatic treatment yesterday for the roots.

What do you guys think of using Hydroguard to try to help the roots out as well - that should arrive in a few days?

Big question is - for next watering (likely near end of week) give just water or feed more Buddha Bloom as well.
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Night Time temp up to 63 last night with heater vs 58 without. Forgot to mention that I gave them a bit of CalMag as well.

Now I'll let them dry out over the week. Fingers crossed.

I'll try some of the Optic foliar spray on a few leaves once it arrives.

Also, as mentioned above, I did use a bit of SLF-100 enzymatic treatment yesterday for the roots.

What do you guys think of using Hydroguard to try to help the roots out as well - that should arrive in a few days?

Big question is - for next watering (likely near end of week) give just water or feed more Buddha Bloom as well.

Why not send in a soil sample and do this right?

The Buddha bloom has the correct proportions if you aren't drowning in potassium which I think you are. But without an analysis, we are all guessing.
 

Michael49

Member
Why not send in a soil sample and do this right?

The Buddha bloom has the correct proportions if you aren't drowning in potassium which I think you are. But without an analysis, we are all guessing.

Thanks for the suggestion but where do I send a soil sample for analysis?
 

Michael49

Member
I've noticed that the water drainage in my pots has worsened recently. My soil feels rock hard and 3 out of 4 of my plants take much longer than they should to dry out. I'm in FFOF with about 30% perilite. So I decided to "loosen things up" - I basically banged on the sides of the fabric pots with my hands quite vigorously - I feel like I was able to really loosen up the soil.

Man, the root balls on my plants are huge! - can they get rootbound in fabric pots? I'm in 3 gallon pots. Would it be completely lunatic to transplant to larger pots at this stage? (just starting wk 4 of flower).
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I've noticed that the water drainage in my pots has worsened recently. My soil feels rock hard and 3 out of 4 of my plants take much longer than they should to dry out. I'm in FFOF with about 30% perilite. So I decided to "loosen things up" - I basically banged on the sides of the fabric pots with my hands quite vigorously - I feel like I was able to really loosen up the soil.

Man, the root balls on my plants are huge! - can they get rootbound in fabric pots? I'm in 3 gallon pots. Would it be completely lunatic to transplant to larger pots at this stage? (just starting wk 4 of flower).

Lack of drainage comes from a heavy soil, getting more and more Mg added, which in turn makes the soil hold more water and plug up pore space. If you watch the video in the beginning of my thread, you will understand more the importance of ratios and proportions. Slownickel lounge

Gypsum will help open up the soil. How much is the issue and thus the reason to take soil analysis to make real numbers...
 

Michael49

Member
Lack of drainage comes from a heavy soil, getting more and more Mg added, which in turn makes the soil hold more water and plug up pore space. If you watch the video in the beginning of my thread, you will understand more the importance of ratios and proportions. Slownickel lounge

Gypsum will help open up the soil. How much is the issue and thus the reason to take soil analysis to make real numbers...

Thanks, will try a bit of Gypsum.

Do you know where I can send a soil sample for analysis?
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I am kind of particular to Spectrumanalytic.com ask for the K 3 process if you are in a made up medium. Sift first and send in the fines from the sift.
 

Sarcclash

Member
If you are stateside menards has heating mats, cheap too. The ones I have run about 105 deg F.
Have to place a 1/2 spacer under them.
 

Michael49

Member
Despite my plant's issues I'm getting some decent buds. This is Day 29 in flower.

I suspect I will need to harvest somewhat early due to the condition of my plants. How early is too early?

I'm looking for mostly brown and curled pistils and cloudy trichomes - correct?

I'm using a moisture meter and also weighing my plants daily as to not overwater them. I'm also using the Optic foliar spray - I think it may be helping some.

Here are a few bud shots....


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Ready4

Active member
Veteran
Despite my plant's issues I'm getting some decent buds. This is Day 29 in flower.

I suspect I will need to harvest somewhat early due to the condition of my plants. How early is too early?



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There is no reason that you should have to harvest early at all. Your buds look fine & healthy. Do not over water & over fertilize and things shoudl go as normal.
The yellow or damaged leaves will not return to healthy green for the most part, cutting them off will not hurt anything at all.
 

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