Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

Guest · Jul 11, 2006

Week 3

Week 3

HempKat said:
The ramification of using the light after the sun goes down is you are keeping the plant in a lights on stage for a longer period of the day. If anything this should cause them to stay in veg rather then go to flower. Now when you stop the light at night the sudden more dramatic change may trigger flowering or it may just stay in veg if the outdoor cycle isn't short enough for flower yet.

Indoor growers that debate 18/6 vs 24/0 will often say that while a longer lights on period will give more growth the lack of a dark period (in 24/0) also makes the plant seem less healthy. So my only concern would be, are you making it less healthy by cutting into it's dark period? On the other hand if a plant got outdoors late in the season and you were trying to give it more light to make up for lost growing time, then doing this in theory should help the plant be bigger by the time it does flower naturally.

I guess the light question is answered...I was away from home for about a week and just left em outside under normal celestial light cycles and here is what I came back to!

Before & After...

MTF-Sandman · Jul 11, 2006

Damn...it even grew a tomato name tag!

sproutco · Jul 11, 2006

Preventing damping off

Preventing damping off

I tried asking this question over in overgrow/cw refugees but never got an answer. I want to prevent damping off fungus from killing my seeds as they just germinate. I want to use a preventative fungicide like 50% captan or 75% pcnb/terrachlor. Both fungicides are nonsystemic.What rates would you use? I found a recipe for ornamentals that is 1/2# 50% captan + 1/4 # 75% pcnb/terrachlor per 100 gallons (380L) of water at time of seeding. That would be about 1/4 tsp 75% pcnb + 1 1/4 tsp 50% captan per gallon (3.8L) of water. Is this about right? My water may contain pathogens. Could I just use hydrogen peroxide to kill pathogens in it to help out with damping off? Would the hydrogen peroxide hurt the seed? Thanks so much for your time.

Teadaemon · Jul 11, 2006

Quick question about transplanting clones

Quick question about transplanting clones

I've got a bunch of clones busy rooting in my veg cab (in plain water).

I was wondering when was the best time to transplant them into soil?

At the moment they're all covered in little white nubs and three of the more advanced ones have one or two 1cm long roots in addition. Are they ready to transplant or should I wait until the root system is more advanced?

They'd be going into my regular soil mix if it makes a difference (3 parts coir, 2 parts perlite, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part worm castings).

HempKat · Jul 11, 2006

sproutco said:
I tried asking this question over in overgrow/cw refugees but never got an answer. I want to prevent damping off fungus from killing my seeds as they just germinate. I want to use a preventative fungicide like 50% captan or 75% pcnb/terrachlor. Both fungicides are nonsystemic.What rates would you use? I found a recipe for ornamentals that is 1/2# 50% captan + 1/4 # 75% pcnb/terrachlor per 100 gallons (380L) of water at time of seeding. That would be about 1/4 tsp 75% pcnb + 1 1/4 tsp 50% captan per gallon (3.8L) of water. Is this about right? My water may contain pathogens. Could I just use hydrogen peroxide to kill pathogens in it to help out with damping off? Would the hydrogen peroxide hurt the seed? Thanks so much for your time.

I've never had that problem to my knowledge, so I don't know how to advise you. I did find this link though, it may be useful.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1167.html

I'm not sure on the peroxide either, it shouldn't unless it's too strong of a treatment. Personally I say if your water has bad things in it, requiring you to add more stuff to it to make it safe then it would be better to come up with a source of water that is safe without treatment.

HempKat · Jul 11, 2006

Teadaemon said:
I've got a bunch of clones busy rooting in my veg cab (in plain water).

I was wondering when was the best time to transplant them into soil?

At the moment they're all covered in little white nubs and three of the more advanced ones have one or two 1cm long roots in addition. Are they ready to transplant or should I wait until the root system is more advanced?

They'd be going into my regular soil mix if it makes a difference (3 parts coir, 2 parts perlite, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part worm castings).

Usually I wait until I have at least 3 or 4 1 inch long roots. This usually ends up being about 12 daays After I take the cut.

Teadaemon · Jul 11, 2006

HempKat said:
Usually I wait until I have at least 3 or 4 1 inch long roots. This usually ends up being about 12 days After I take the cut.

Cool, it sounds like I've got a few more days to go then.

sproutco · Jul 11, 2006

Thanks Hempkat

Thanks Hempkat

I think for now the best thing for me to do is use sterile soilless mix and distilled water rather than depend on chemicals for seed starting. Thanks for the link.

Guest · Jul 13, 2006

MTF-Sandman said:
Damn...it even grew a tomato name tag!

Yeah thats my weak attempt to disguise it from my nosey in-laws who come over unannounced...next step once it gets strong enough is to duct tape some actual tomatoes to it. :jump:

HempKat · Jul 14, 2006

sproutco said:
I think for now the best thing for me to do is use sterile soilless mix and distilled water rather than depend on chemicals for seed starting. Thanks for the link.

From what I read that's probably the best bet. I always use store bought soil but never sterilize it, so from what I'm thinking, the real issue is to just be careful with the watering. If you don't over do the watering you should be fine. I don't recall ever having a problem with damping off. So if you sterilize the soil and don't overwater you should be fine.

HempKat · Jul 14, 2006

icclearly said:
Yeah thats my weak attempt to disguise it from my nosey in-laws who come over unannounced...next step once it gets strong enough is to duct tape some actual tomatoes to it.

For what it's worth, I have read of a user who disguised his plants by hanging red christmas ornaments on it to look like tomatoes but he only needed to fool people looking from the ground to his balcony. :smile:

Teadaemon · Jul 14, 2006

Foliar feeding cuttings

Foliar feeding cuttings

This is one of those questions that runs across my mind late at night when I should be in bed, I apologise if I'm talking complete crap, but:

Is it possible to foliar feed cuttings in order to prevent (or at least mitigate) them breaking down their own leaves in order to survive until they're rooted?

I've got some (my first ever cuttings) that look like they may not make it for this reason (doesn't help that I took them close to four weeks into flowering, but I can't change that now), and was wondering if a foliar feed with seaweed tea might be a good idea? Would it have made a difference if I'd done that earlier, say when they first started showing signs of deficiency?

Cuttings are in plain water in my veg cab (60W of CFL, soon to be replaced with 2 x 70W HPS if I get my arse in gear and build the new box).

Erbsdaword1 · Jul 14, 2006

6 Weeks into flowering....

6 Weeks into flowering....

Super n00b :wave:

Flowering Question...

After 6 weeks of 12/12, someone told me I shold trim the top off. That this stops growth, and jump starts flowering...is this true?

If so, how far down/or where do I trim it? :chin:

Thanks,

Erbs :sasmokin:

PS, Where can I find a place to look up stuff like OG had, and I can stop asking and start reading?...thanks

HempKat · Jul 15, 2006

Teadaemon said:
This is one of those questions that runs across my mind late at night when I should be in bed, I apologise if I'm talking complete crap, but:

Is it possible to foliar feed cuttings in order to prevent (or at least mitigate) them breaking down their own leaves in order to survive until they're rooted?

I've got some (my first ever cuttings) that look like they may not make it for this reason (doesn't help that I took them close to four weeks into flowering, but I can't change that now), and was wondering if a foliar feed with seaweed tea might be a good idea? Would it have made a difference if I'd done that earlier, say when they first started showing signs of deficiency?

Cuttings are in plain water in my veg cab (60W of CFL, soon to be replaced with 2 x 70W HPS if I get my arse in gear and build the new box).

I doubt it, at four weeks you were firmly in flower mode so those cuttings are having to revert to veg and develope roots at the same time. To me it seems in flower root production is minimal so it may be that the cutting have to revert first to develope the roots. That would explain it taking a long time. I doubt using the tea sooner would have made a significant difference. Most people seem to wait to introduce too much but I don't see where a mild dose of tea in a foliar shouldn't hurt too much. I do know that many use a mild dose of ferts when they water their clones. Perhaps some superthrive or other root stimulator. (which your tea is about the same organically speaking).

HempKat · Jul 15, 2006

Erbsdaword1 said:
Super n00b Flowering Question...

After 6 weeks of 12/12, someone told me I shold trim the top off. That this stops growth, and jump starts flowering...is this true? If so, how far down/or where do I trim it?

Thanks,

Erbs

PS, Where can I find a place to look up stuff like OG had, and I can stop asking and start reading?...thanks

It's true but not true, you would want to top it at about 6 weeks of veg. Many strains after 6 weeks of 12/12 are about 2 weeks from harvest.

You top in veg to control growth and make the plant bushier. In flower you shouldn't be cutting things off until harvest..

Erbsdaword1 · Jul 15, 2006

Thanks!!!

While Im typing, what is a general temp range I should keep the growing area?

I know it is different per strain, but I really don't know what I have...(long story LOL) I would like a range so I have something to work with. I have tried a search, but never really found anything.

I am actually 7 wks into flower, but the buds are just starting. I might have it to cold. Its 67-72 depending on weather. I have a window unit, but need to figure out what range is appropriate.

THANKS!!!

Erbs :sasmokin:

CronCrazy · Jul 15, 2006

is aquafina good to water mj with?

HempKat · Jul 15, 2006

Erbsdaword1 said:
Thanks!!!

While Im typing, what is a general temp range I should keep the growing area?

I know it is different per strain, but I really don't know what I have...(long story LOL) I would like a range so I have something to work with. I have tried a search, but never really found anything.

I am actually 7 wks into flower, but the buds are just starting. I might have it to cold. Its 67-72 depending on weather. I have a window unit, but need to figure out what range is appropriate.

THANKS!!!

Erbs

Okay generally speaking you want your lights on temp between 75 to 80 degrees F. You can let it creep up to the mid 80's but I find the warmer you let it get the more likely you'll develope other problems with mites or mold and things like that. Lights off you want the temps down around 60 to 65 but I say no lower then 60 even though lower temps wouldn't kill it I think it slows the plant down.

Now that's just generally speaking. If you have had them in 12/12 for 7 weeks and they are just now forming flowers then I would say you have either a full blooded sativa or a sativa dominent hybrid. Indica's or Indica dominent strains tend to flower in 8 weeks or there abouts where as sativa's take more like 12 weeks maybe a bit longer. Being that it's a sativa or sativa dominent and sativas originate in tropical climates, you can likely let your temps range 80 to 85 degrees during lights on.

HempKat · Jul 15, 2006

CronCrazy said:
is aquafina good to water mj with?

It should be as long as there are no additives, most bottled waters are fine though, just an expensive way to love the plant.

Erbsdaword1 · Jul 15, 2006

Wow...thanks!!!

More info then I bargained for!!!! And thats a GOOOOD THING! :jump:

Thanks Again!!

Erbs :sasmokin:

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