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curved and dy leaves

S

sirtween

Member
Hi

I've an issue with some clone that i have receive.
I've never feeded them, just transplant in the same soil as my other clone.
1weeks after the transplant it just have began to spread on the leaves.
The leaves are dry and broke easily.
I water with 6,2 ph.
I use led lightining at 20cm distance.
I've spray pyrethre and neem oil but it don't seem to change anything.

In 10 years growing i've never seen that.
Sorry fo my english.

 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
sirtween said:
Hi

I've an issue with some clone that i have receive.
I've never feeded them, just transplant in the same soil as my other clone.
1weeks after the transplant it just have began to spread on the leaves.
The leaves are dry and broke easily.
I water with 6,2 ph.
I use led lightining at 20cm distance.
I've spray pyrethre and neem oil but it don't seem to change anything.

In 10 years growing i've never seen that.
Sorry fo my english.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=78261&pictureid=1888308&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=78261&pictureid=1888307&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=78261&pictureid=1888306&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
Click to expand...
Magnesium deficiency/lockout.

There could also be too many nutrient salts in the medium.

My advice is to either give the plant some foliar epsom salt, and flush the soil for a longtime, slowly, with a low concentration of bloom food. Or get some new soil, repot, and then give the plant a low concentration of bloom food.

Say, 0.2 EC to 0.4 EC of a biosevia bloom, or canna bio flowering, etc. The reason is that there is P in the bloom food which will stimulate root growth, and there are always some nutrients in most soils. That way, the roots will find the nutrients.

--

Also, 6.2 pH is very low for what seems to be soil or a soilless mix.

7.0 on soil is fine, also because most liquid nutrients will pull the pH down a little anyway.
6.0 is fine on straight coco.
 
Last edited:
G

Guy Brush

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
420giveaway
From the looks I wouldn't call it Mg deficiency, which looks differently, with more yellowing. I bet on overfeeding of some kind. But the ph of 6.2 is way too low for watering. Try using ph up to get the water to 7.1 - 7.2 for a few waterings and then proceed with a ph of 7.0 (neutral)!
At this point I wouldn't use any kind of feeding but the pure soil!
 
G

Guy Brush

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
420giveaway
TanzanianMagic said:
... and there are always some nutrients in most soils...
Click to expand...

If he got a decent soil there shouldn't be just SOME nutrients there but ENOUGH. You contradict yourself a bit saying it may be too many salts and then giving him advice to add salts to a fresh medium which will again lead to overfeeding.
 
Creeperpark

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
question

question

Do you have too much wind on the 1 Plant? Just wondering if it could be wind burn. I burnt the hell out of some leaves from the fan blowing directly on my plants. The leaf scar you have looks kind of like the leaves I burned with my fans.
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Guy Brush said:
If he got a decent soil there shouldn't be just SOME nutrients there but ENOUGH. You contradict yourself a bit saying it may be too many salts and then giving him advice to add salts to a fresh medium which will again lead to overfeeding.
Click to expand...
No I didn't 'contradict myself'. Look at the concentrations I recommended. They are much lower than your average fertilized soil, or even light mix. And, what is much more important, they are the right NPK ratio for seeds or repotted plants, with higher P reducing the impact of N, which can burn roots or lead to too much growth vs development. Which leads to too much foliage, insect attack prone plants, etc.
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Just to restate:

This is typical magnesium deficiency.

- This is a mobile nutrient deficiency that starts at the middle leaves and does not affect the top of the plant, which is still growing
- The leaves are too thick
- The leaves are very dark green
- The leaf damage progresses from the tip to interveinal
- The stems of the leaves are purple

All of that points to the certainty or probability of magnesium deficiency or lockout.
 
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