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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!

statgreen

New member
Hello All,

First post for me.

Has anyone tried foliar spaying with fungal dominate tea to get rid of PM?

If so any success even if it's just ongoing maintenance?

Thanks
 

statgreen

New member
Hello All,

I wanted to let everyone know that I've had incredible success controlling PM in flower by doing the following:

1) Sprayed plants, walls, equipment everything with "No Powdery Mildew", this is a combination of Germanium Oil and Citric Acid.

2) Spraying plants, walls and equipment with a high concentration of Lacto Bacillus serum.

3) Running an ozone generator at twice the necessary concentration.

At this point I see no PM on any of the flowering plants. I will report back.

I did hit my veg with eagle 20.

I hope this works.

Tom
 

flyer81

Member
I went to my local hydro store looking for eagle 20 and was told to use Spectracide. It had the same ingredient just at a significantly lower concentration. It still worked.

Sprayed all of my plants in veg and have had no recurrence of powdery mildew. On 2nd harvest since PM showed up with no issues since.

+1 vote for Eagle 20/Spectracide.
 

pseudostelariae

Active member
i had it last round, bleached my room and it came right back. sprayed every plant with azamax and added an 18" oscillating fan and haven't seen it since. seems airflow and proper humidity is the real way to keep PM gone.
 

Classic Seeds

Member
Veteran
having had it on some clones years ago and using the stuff cyat recommends it worked great and cleared up the problem after 2 sprays ,nice to know the eagle and this are basically the same and spectricide is way cheaper if you need to spray .I have wondered if you drenched the plants container instead of sprayed the whole plant if this method would work as good as spraying . maybe do both to eliminate the spores from the soil as well as plant tissue.if anyone has done this or knows about this stuff I would enjoy learning a thing or two about drenching the soil if its feasible or a good or bad idea for safety and later consumption aloha cls
 

SativaBreather

Active member
Veteran
I apologize for mean words. I just hate it when I feel the ignorance in the air mainly because your too scared to change your ways. Your leaning towards your false opinion a lot more because you don't want to accept change that could be tedious.


You come across as a prick and as someone who reads 'university' level literature and hates ignorance, I would have thought you'd know the following:

your = how is your mother
you're = you are

You most likely mean TRANSPIRATION, not PERSPIRATION. Women perspire, men sweat and plants transpire.

Also, it's SYSTEMIC, not SYSTEMATIC.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
I think I may have scared Andrew away and left ICMag with his tail between his legs...or is the word, "tale"...lol, maybe it's both in this particular circumstance.

Also, he demonstrated in almost a classic way what happens when you impose your "opinion" and substitute it for "fact". He forgot Rule #1 in verbal discourse: always respect "opinions"--even opposing ones, but debate/argue "facts" with all the vigor you want--as they are "provable".

Cheers!
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
Eagle20, FUCK YA!

Looking back at this thread...

Im sure Eagle20 is responsible for 10's of thousands of growrooms across the world to be powder mildew free...

And MILLIONS of dollars in product to be PM free as well...
 

Cat Jockey

Member
I've only see one thing work. A user named mark6699331 in this thread, https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=43220&highlight=zone+penetrator&page=2, talks about his use of Dutch Master Zone and Penatrator to solve this problem.

I have to say it is the only thing that worked. Make a garbage can of this solution, put your entire plant upside down in it. It is the only thing I know of that goes into your leaves and kills this shit. It is the only thing that ever got rid of PM for me forever.

Well a thread about the White Demon has been dredged up, with mucho advice.

This combo, DM Zone and Penatrator WORKED 100%, one application. Would do a number on spider mites and their eggs, too. Plants and cuttings showed no signs of stress (in fact, they almost looked like it perked them up - not saying they perked up, but it sure looked that way).

I say worked instead of works, because DM cahnged both formulas a few years ago. They changed their Zone (their root zone conditioner) formulation and started calling their surficant Saturator. Worked pretty good, but not quite as 100% after that.

I, and many other Coloradans, were dealing with a MASSIVE PM and Borg (Spider Mites) invasion when the legislation passed and people were shipping in loads of clones from Cali.

That shit was getting passed around faster than a $2 hooker.

That info nugget, from that mark dude years ago, was one of the best nuggets of info on this site, certainly concerning PM. I dipped all cuttings (fully immersed on a x,xxx clone/week operation) and sprayed mature plants, at the site of infection and surrounding areas of stems, leaves, etc.

It was still working the last time I tried it (a few years ago), but sometimes required repeated applications, whereas with the old formulation it was 100% working on ONE treatment.

As a side note, I'm a big fan of DM foliar feed products and Zone. I tested their Zone against Roots Excel (a few years ago) and I went with Zone - way cheaper with very similar root development. Tested on peat/perlite/vermic, Ebb & Flow and RDWC, all thowies for light ...
 

Classic Seeds

Member
Veteran
hi krunchbubble you did a lot of good for a lot of people spreading this message I don't think anyone is refuting this .some people like to talk shit and never learn from others experiences and miss the real message because they are busy argueing about milk sprays or some other old folk cure thanks keep up the good work aloha cls
 

Peacebud

New member
e20 before flower

e20 before flower

Disinfecting a grow room once a week goes along way in an overall IPM strategy and reduces foreign spore load substantially.

PM spores are everywhere outside when they are in season. However in a totally sealed environmentally controlled indoor grow environment YOU are the only vector and source of infection entering your room from the outside world.

I will agree with you on the usage of E20. However looking at your math in the 1 mL per gallon of e20 only 20% of that mL is myclobutanil. The rest are the solvents used to help penetrate the cuticle. So the residual will be even less than you are calculating.
saw that you used the e20, how did your plants turn out? i used it before my switch to bloom and went 60 days no pm. the nugs are beautiful but how about the smoke safety? you still alive? if u be a caregiver how has everything turned out for you? have you ever gotten your stuff tested?
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
I'm about to hit my plants going into bloom and 1st time eagle20 user.
is eagle 20 a transfoliate?
or do you have to spray both sides of the leaves?
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
I'm about to hit my plants going into bloom and 1st time eagle20 user.
is eagle 20 a transfoliate?
or do you have to spray both sides of the leaves?



Not sure what a transfoliate is...

Dont have to spray under the leaves. Spray every leaf surface you can. I find that if I missed a spot, thats where the PM will be...
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Not sure what a transfoliate is...

Dont have to spray under the leaves. Spray every leaf surface you can. I find that if I missed a spot, thats where the PM will be...

sorry, probably using the wrong terminology.
when i used Forbid4F for broadmites I only need apply to the top sides of the leaves and it travels to the bottom of the leaf by...??
what was the name used?? translaminar, tranlaminate? mabe?? :D

well anyways ok,
so I spray tops-n-bottoms of the leaves.
btw on the dilutions rate,
krunch you said use @2ml per gallon at the start of this thread.
I'm reading on a garden/lawn site to use 5oz to 4 gallons, sounds like a lot to me.
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?p=4065801
the directions say 1.5-3oz per 1000sqft of area to be treated??
 
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