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Shmalphy's Perpetual Organic Garden

shmalphy

Member
Veteran
Updated 11/28/2012


Room Setup:
Right now I have two 600w HPS flip flopped, each in a 6'x4' room and a 400w MH for veg in a 4'x'4' and a 90w UFO in a cab for clones and seedlings. I have a 6" exhaust on each flower room and a 4" for the veg that all go into my living space through a carbon filter, and passive return air comes back through a HEPA filter. I only have 15 amps to grow with, so until I can upgrade my panel, I have to work with what I got, but I plan to double the light in my flowering rooms ASAP.

Media: No-till ROLS in SIPs. Homemade compost and castings. Biochar, manure, kelp, crabshell, etc. I take clones in a 5 gallon mist cloner I made. I mulch with seaweed from a local beach, and use white dutch clover as a living mulch/green manure.

Water: Rain barrels

Pest control: Predator mites- longipes, galendromus, fallacis, and persimillis

Strains: Got a bunch of new untested ones, should be interesting

* Deep Funk Sour D x Deep Chunk bred by Bodhi Seeds
* StrawBubbaFunk Stawberry Cough x (Deep Funk x Bubba Kush) bred by me
* Chernobyl- Trainwreck cross bred by Subcool
* Blue Mystic x Velvet Rush bred by Swami Kushendez
* The One x Blue Moon Rocks Bx1 by Swami Kushendez
* The One x Cherry Bomb by Swami Kushendez
* NYCD x Strawberry Cough by me
* Critical Mass
* Blueberry
* Chem Dawg
* Super Blue Rhino
* seed found in a vial in a boat labeled "1982 second gen"
* 2 bagseed seedlings

Seed stash:

TOxCB x Chernobyl
TOxCB x DF
TOxCB x BMxVR
 
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shmalphy

Member
Veteran
Current flowering room shot
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Strains:

King's Kush
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StrawBubbaFunk
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The Supercross
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Chem Dawg
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All of these are at about 6 weeks or so. I just got a new camera and I am learning how to use it, so I admit these are not the best pics...
 

shmalphy

Member
Veteran
I just noticed my compost bin looked sandy, but it was bugs. They apear to be predator mites, but they could be spider mites I am going off what I saw here

http://cipm.ncsu.edu/ent/biocontrol/lookalikes/mites.htm

and the fact that there are no webs, and they are in a moist compost bin, so porobably not harmful spider mites. I will try to get a pic of one if I can, they are clear tiny, but adults look larger than a spider mite.
 

shmalphy

Member
Veteran
Well they are definitely not harmful bugs, I smeared some on a test plant, and they didn't eat it. I also watched what happened when I took a spider mite and introduced these things to it, it appeared they ate the spider mites and were eating all the eggs, but it is tough to tell with my crappy scope, I need to get better equipment with so much interesting stuff going on in there.

I wanted to include a little about my airflow design. I just came up with a new plan to include a drying box that has airflow, without adding a fan. It also keeps all of my bud under lock and key, without buying a new lock by keeping in the grow room, and filters smell of the buds and dust from the intake air, without buying any new filters, and acts as a plenum to distribute intake air more evenly. It can also dry my hash, trim, and store jars during curing. It is a pretty comprehensive solution. Here is a diagram of my room:

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Here is a pic of the "bud casket" as I call it, or my drying chamber. This is the inside view from the diagram above
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I built the drying box out of used pallets, so it breathes nicely. I cut down 3 of SBF's (I have 2 pheno's, one pheno sometimes hermies at about 7 weeks, but it is fat enough to take down. I am keeping the other pheno which never hermies) to throw in there to test it out. I made the box a few days ago, filled it yesterday. I was afraid it would be too dry, but I just checked the temp and humidity today, I am at 68 degrees and 64% in the drying box. :biggrin:I stay right at 77 deg and 50% in the growing areas all day with an AC in my living space going during the summer. The heat from the lights is enough to heat my house all winter, with the help of a wood stove. Really a perfect system in terms of efficiency.
 

shmalphy

Member
Veteran
Howdy folks, just updating the old thread here. Things are coming along nicely. I harvested a bunch of plants, and stored the soil right in the grow bags with the mulch on top in large plastic storage containers. I dumped one container into the compost pile and there were a ton of worms, so it looks like everything is healthy. My compost pile itself has just an insane amount of worms in it. They are very hyperactive worms, they flip and flail like crazy when I flip the pile.

To continue my quest for improving my soil, I have been gathering glacial rocks and smashing them into dust to remineralize my compost and mulch bin. I recently acquired nettle seed, that is growing nicely. I also got a comfrey plant at the nursery, and some lavender at the supermarket. I plan to switch to a full fledged FPE regimen once I get the plants established. For now I have been using various bionutrients as per Gil Cardanang's recipes, bat guano teas, and my compost/mulch. I also did the calcium phosphate extract from eggshells, which provided a HUGE boost when I changed them over to flowering.

Bionutrients

In the creation of biological nutrients, bionutrients, the basic process is the traditional fermentation. Fermentation process is a better system than simple extraction like boiling the plant materials, through infusion like making tea. In the United States, where compost tea is getting popular in organic agriculture, compost is made into tea, sugar or molasses are added, fermented to increase microbial population. A simple general formula or recipe in fermentation can be done for plants. For example, seaweeds. If you simply infuse seaweeds (which are quite difficult to breakdown, therefore hard to extract active ingredients), you may not get a more potent extracted active ingredients. If you ferment the same materials by adding sugar or molasses, it is easily broken down (biologically) by microorganisms and thus making nutrient more available. Microorganisms get their energy from sugar in fermenting the materials. Most healthy foods are fermented foods. Through fermentation, food are easily broken down, enzymes created, nutrition improved. That’s the reason why fermented foods like yogurt or kimchi (Korean pickles) are more nutritious than plain milk or vegetables.

In making bionutrients, the simple formula is to add 1/3 crude sugar or molasses and mixed with materials to be fermented and extracted. For example, let’s take papaya fruit fermented extract. We chop as thinly as possible ripe papaya, unwashed and unpeeled. We then add 1/3 crude sugar or molasses to the total weight or approximate volume of the papaya materials. Put the materials with at least 50-75% air gap and cover loosely with a lid and let it ferment for at least a week. After a week, you will notice some molds and microbial infections and will start smelling sweet, sour and alcoholic. The materials are then strained and liquid generated will be your pure fruit papaya extract. You can dilute this with 20 parts water. This diluted form can be used as bionutrient, using 2-4 tablespoons per gallon of water. Again, this extract can be added to animal drinking water and feeds, to compost pile or sprayed/watered to plants leaves and roots. This will be a good source of nutrient for plants or animals, and also for our beneficial indigenous microorganisms. Papaya extract is good source of enzyme pappain, beta-carotene and Vitamin C for example. So extract any plant material and just try to find out what kind of nutrients they have you can use for animal and plant nutrition. Should the materials you intend to use for extraction do not have much moisture (as compared to our papaya fruit example), you may add water enough to the level that will moisten all the materials.
Calcium Phosphate

A lot of agriculture advisers have used calcium phosphate for better plant growth, health, pest and disease controls. Natural farmers use this very specific bionutrient. Under the theory of Nutrioperiodism developed by a Japanese horticulturist, Yasushi Inoue in the 1930’s, plants and animals need a very specific nutrient relative to the stage of their development. In the plant, there is the essential vegetative growth , changeover and the reproductive periods. In animals, like humans, there is the infantile, juvenile and adulthood. It is not only critical to provide the right nutrient at the right stage of the development, but also critical to use or apply specific nutrient of calcium phosphate in the juvenile or changeover period. For the plant, for example, we know that nitrogen is critical on the vegetative stage as potassium is critical in the flowering and fruiting stages. It is however, the changeover period that is most critical that will determine the quality of the final reproductive stage. At this stage, an additional nutrient is badly needed by the plant. And this is calcium phosphate. Calcium phosphate is good for plants’ “morning sickness”. It is the stage that additional baby needs to be fed or the process where flower/fruit is about to come. Ash made from soybean stems are excellent for this purpose.

Here is a simple, natural method of generating calcium phosphate. Get eggshells and roast them enough to generate some good ashes. Afterwhich, dip these roasted eggshells on about equal visual volume of vinegar. Allow it to sit for a couple of weeks until eggshells are practically broken down by the vinegar acids. You may use this diluted 20 parts water and can be sprayed or watered to the plants during the changeover period.

When this is applied to that changeover period, it will improve plant health and productivity. The use of calcium phosphate is important to natural farmers. This however, does not mean that we shall forget the nutrient timing application of other critical nutrients for plant growth both macro and micro nutrients, given at the right stages and combinations.

We consider this very important bionutrient needed by the plants used by natural farmers.
Here are some recent pics:


StrawBubbaFunk from the last harvest
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Some bubble I made from the last run
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The mod scrog screens I built. I took down half the room and put in some, I have 2 more screens to put in.
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This is the flowering room I just filled up It is a few weeks in
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shmalphy

Member
Veteran
Made Gil Cardanang's Ginger Garlic Extract
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Here is room A when I finally finished filling it. I staggered them by a few weeks as I built the scrogs. I used nothing but recycled pallet wood for all of the scrogs.
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Here is that room now, the screens have filled in nicely, I am very happy about how well they are working out
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Room B got filled all at once. Here is the lineup
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And here is the room all filled up. These are my ModScrog V2.0 with casters.
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shmalphy

Member
Veteran
I have a compost bucket that I was adding coffee grounds (N), peanut and pistachio shells (P) and banana peels (K) with all of my cannabis scraps and some straw. I then added a bunch of fruit and vegetable matter from making bionutrients, so they had LAB and some molasses on them, so things started heating up. I think this is now called either bokashi or designer compost at this point, it is thick and sludgy like fresh manure, but smells amazingly sweet and fresh. It got to a point where I was adding in all my kitchen scraps once the microbes were eating, there is a lot going on in there, but no worms, it's all thermal breakdown. I top dress with that, and save some as a mother to keep adding to for next month. There is my nutrient schedule. Eat bananas and peanuts, drink coffee, smoke herb, eat veggies, save scraps. Easy enough right?

I am very excited about this run. The last run I did was my first without any bottled nutes at all and the smell was better than ever. I am getting true skunky smells from strains that never had them before. Like an actual roadkill skunk. This run should be even better.
 

thefanfx

Member
:) you make me happy and little bit greedy with such amounts and sizes , lovely job

keep the good work goin

GL
 

trichrider

Kiss My Ring
Veteran
shmalphy you devil! keeping this from the masses!
nice work.
i'd say you are far ahead of me (but i won't).lol
keep it green bro.
 

chief bigsmoke

Active member
SHMALPHY... holy freakin crap bro...

a big jumping highfive to you. Your garden..or should I call it... art studio.... is producing some beautiful plants.

I also love your clear and concise info. Its a pleasure to read. I'll be back with question in the near future.
 

wildgrow

, The Ghost of
Veteran
Ya, really like the way youve got things thought out to be as economical as possible w/o skimping. Fill us in on the teas/ foliars when you make them. Well, at least Im interested. cheers
 

shmalphy

Member
Veteran
Ya, really like the way youve got things thought out to be as economical as possible w/o skimping. Fill us in on the teas/ foliars when you make them. Well, at least Im interested. cheers
Teas are great. Today I took a growth tip and bud from a big strong pumpkin plant, threw it in the blender and strained and applied foliar, mainly looking for the auxins, so I didn't soak at all, just blend, strain, dilute, spray. I also do the same with fresh aloe, you have to apply that within 20 min or it ferments and you lose the good stuff.

For pest repellent properties, use any plant rich in terpenes, cilantro, basil, thyme, lavender, nettle, comfrey etc, and soak 24-48 hours if you don't use a blender, 24 max if you do, or the terpenes will break down. You can soak this even longer and it will have no more pest repellant properties, but it will have a dose of nutrient for your plant. Nettle and Comfrey are best for that purpose because they are accumulators.

For bionutrients, I add lacto B and BIM to a plant matter/water slurry and put that in a glass jug with brewers airlock and let the bacteria consume the organic material until fermentation stops.

Haven't used guano teas lately because the plants aren't asking for them, and all my "helper" plants are in full bloom outside so I have been using just botanical teas from them.
 
The bit you posted on calcium phosphate and bionutrients was extraordinarily useful! I plan to see those tidbits in action for myself :)
 
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