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Tales of the great battle of powdery mildew

PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
I have been dealing with pm in my garden since November 2017. I have a 3K bloom room with 48 plants on perpetual, and a 1k veg room with also around 48 plants and moms in various stages. The internet and this community has been my only source for information and support and I am grateful for it, but many of the suggestions, opinions, experiences of others I have found to be simply not true. Believing in the community I have followed the advice, spending much time, money, and loss of crops. This thread is a complete report of all the steps I have taken in the past, and continue to take in the future, until the powdery mildew is not existing in my grow, or I stop growing by the end of this year. It is a place for me to vent, but also if someone else finds this, hopefully they don't go through what I have in the last 8 months and counting. I think for something that is so devastaing and severe there seems to be not a lot of post and threads about peoples experience. Sure you find people asking for advice, and then people giving it, but there is not summary to the event. How are we supposed to learn anything!

The reason why some solutions don't work for everyone else is the environment and growing style is different. There are different species of PM that behave differently. Not everyone understands the full life cycle of PM (I don't either fully, but more than most I would safely say), so based on your growing style/environement you where lucky enough to possible break the cycle of spore reproduction.

It showed up after growing for 1 year already, I had never taken in clones and started everything from seed. I had 4 strains I was working with at this point and had run 4 other strains previously when I didn't have pm yet. Throughout this time I had many many unhealthy plants as I was a newbie making all the major mistakes.
When I noticed it on one plant my environment RH was in the 60s at night as it is winter here and -30C outside some days, and I don't have any exterior venting so I recirculate all exhaust air throughout my house. The plant that got it first was not very healthy was in the corner possibly not getting a lot of direct airflow and the lights off temp was in the 60's RH and 55-65F.

For suggested solutions It can be broken down into several areas:

Various Sprays for Control only
Environmental - Airflow, RH, Temperatures of lights on/off cycle Light
Healthy plants with good immune systems
Regular Sulfur burns
Killing PM within the plant with Eagle20 or MELTATOX


Heres a timeline of what I have gone through

***Sprays of Bakin soda,Vinegar,Milk
This made the flowers look very ugly and smell really bad and it didn't stop it for very long

***Defoliate/ Lollipop
Removed up to 2/3 of lower part of plants in some cases. Removed all fan leaves leaving only 3-4 colas. This stunted the plant and it ended up not doing anything for the last 5 weeks of flowering. Still got pm

***Increased airflow
I got 2 Hurricane wall mount oscillating fans on each end turned on max setting.I have PM on areas that are right in front of the fan getting hit with literally a hurricane of wind nonstop, I actually think this amount of wind is causing stress

*** Greencure Spray

This was the best performing spray and I was able to dilute it at 10 ml per gallon without burning the pistils anymore I would notice it come back 4-5 days later. This is not a long term solution for 48 plants for someone that has a disability. It is hard for me to walk, I can't spray plants in the bloom room as its finished hard wood flooring, so I need to take each plant into the bathroom bathub, spray down top to bottom, let it dry and bring it back in. Even when I sprayed plants every week on a regular basis, or as it showed up, I found that plants will have PM on the inside of the buds on all the little sugar leaves that are tucked away. So even if it looks like things are going will and you notice no pm on big fan leaves or outside leaves once you harvest and break open the colas you will find pm tucked away.

***Increase plant space & Light per plant
Reduced amount of plants from 4 by 4 per 1K light to 3 by 3 to increase airflow around plants, not have them touching so much and give maximum light. I still have PM on areas that are 20" from a 1000W HPS


***Lowered RH
This is what was most commonly suggested as an environmental solution. After having had 35-45% RH over the last 2 months I can say that this has not stopped the PM strain that I have) It is spreading just as fierce as when RH was 50-70!


***Eliminated Lights on/off Temp drop.

This summer I was hoping I would remove pm because of the RH and temp, as I have my lights on at 10 PM, so it is around 80F during the day when the lights are off, and then 80F at night, pulling in cool air from the open window. So there is literally no RH or Temp drop between light on off cycles. Unfortunately the PM is as strong as ever


***Grown different Strains
one strain has been 100% immune to pm - Critcal Cheese - very sativa, ofcourse those cuttings had to die on me! Others are fairly resiliant, where it can show up on a few lower leaves but once they are removed it doesn't continue to spread to the top parts.

Agent orange - all 4 phenos are prone
Headbanger - 1/4 phenos is almost immune, 1/4 is somewhat resilient, 2/4 are magnets - I had to toss the whole plant
Scotts og 3/3 are magnets
SSDD 2/3 is a magnet, 1/3 is somewhat resilient

***EAGLE 20
So this is a highly debated product due to the unknown side effects of myclobutanil. But it was touted as the final and ultimate destruction of PM. It is stated that if used 9 weeks prior to harvest, it has not shown up in tested samples. The halflife is also stated as 4 or so weeks, so that would make sense. But again, Im not saying anything, other than that people said it cured their PM once and for all.
I diluted at 2.5ml per gallon, and dunked plants 100% underwater in a bucket for 30 seconds on DAY 1 of bloom. I have seen pm on these exact plants in as little as 3 weeks later. Since then I have continued to do side by side tests with single plants treated with Eagle20, and they all had pm in the end. I do think the pm was removed, but after 3 weeks the eagle20 was not in plant anymore in high enough concentration and it got re infected. Also for anyone that has negative comments and wants to ridicule me, remember, that by people being able to openly have a discussion about these products we can get to the truth, so that someone else might not resort to these products if he sees that it is not effective in all cases, I only followed the advice of the community that got me to eagle 20.


***Healthy plants

Have read this a lot, that healthy plants with a good immune system can fight it off. So I switched from pro mix, pure blend pro, to a organic living soil, with weekly compost teas and really tried to grow healthy plants. I just completed this step and had 4 plants on day 21, that were very healthy, and they all have pm. Silicate is also a recommended product for strengthening the plant cell walls and that has been in my resevoir for all plants still receiving pure blend pro nutrients. Healthy plants may make a difference if they havent been infected yet possibly, but if the mom had pm and its already inside the clones, then it is my experience that the health or state of a plant will not make a difference.

A lot of you will read what Ive been through and say, the only way to get rid of it is to kill all your plants, shut down your grow, sulfur burn, take all equipment apart bleach everything in the room, fans, filters,walls floors, ballasts,bulbs,pots,watering containers, throw out all your soil. Then start fresh with seeds.

Several reasons I have not done that yet:

1. I was following all the other advice first to see if I can manage the PM and even live with it to some degree and keep it in check.

2. These PM spores are everywhere in the trillions, they go 1/4 inch into all surface pores like drywall, carpets, wood. Even if I was able to clean and disinfect 95% of all surfaces in the room. Whats 5% of a trillion spores? exactly. Because the exhaust air from the veg and bloom room also circulate throughout the house my whole house has pm spores.

3. I started from seed originally, so this wasn't brought in through clone stock. It was simply in my home. I don't have AC so my windows and doors are open to let a breeze through the house in summer. Thats not something that I can change so even if I removed every trace and was succesful there is no guarantee for how long until this happened again.

4. I have spent the last year building up my organic living soil with my own compost and EWC, and $1000 of amendments, to only throw it out and get PRo mix and pure blend pro?

5. I have spent a year just to grow out these 4 strains, get females, flower them out, and keep moms of my favourite phenotypes. Im not a big shot grower who has access to hundreds of breeder packs or buddies who can give him the top 10 cuts circulating. I spent all my savings on these packs with the intention of finding a keeper and running it for years until I was bored with it. I haven't had 1 solid run with any of them yet really.

6. Ive had quite the challenge trying to grow for the last 2 years almost, and with my disabily and no income this hobby is becoming very hard to continue. If I was going to kill everything and start over I would probably just completely stop for the time being.


Sulfur burning is not a permanent solution from what I have read. It has to be done every week or two, and if you do it past week 4 in bloom the flower will taste like it.

Conclusion

I will continue to try these methods of healthy plants and see if the summer RH / temperature changes anything, I also have new genetics in the pipeline so I will flower just 1 phenotype to see how it holds up to the PM. No more putting 16 plants of 1 pheno into flower just to have it all covered in pm.

Once I have flowered all the seedlings I currently have I will stop bloom room until its empty.
Then I will:

Raise temps to 100F+ for 3 hours(supposedly kills spore)
Bleach whole bloom & veg room and equipment
sulfur burn once per week in veg and bloom room
Every Week dunk all moms in Meltatox & Eagle 20 (seperately 4 days apart)

Basically do this for a whole month, The idea is that the meltatox/eagle 20 will cure the plants from pm, and that the cleaning/heat/sulfur will kill all spores on contact for that whole month. By the end of the month the life cycle of the pm and the spores will be broken and I can start vegging and taking clones again.

And to add to this strategy of breaking this cycle - I would focus for half a year or more only on growing the strains that I found were immune/very resistant to pm in the past. I would have 6 months where even if there were some spores still flying around, these resistant strains would not get infected and give a chance for all the spores to die.


A lot of advice given is for prevention, and completely useless to deal with pm outbreak.

My thought is that yes there are always some spores floating around naturally from outside and plants can defend against these attacks every so often. That's why I had no issues for a whole year. But once the spores are reproduced in the grow room and are in the trillions, plants can't defend against those repeated attacks.

If you have something meaningful to contribute please do. I would like to read more successful and unsuccessful experiences from people so that we can learn from them. If you have any podcasts or academic trials/ studies, or pm specialist articles in the mater that material will help me and everyone else learn more about the life cycle of pm.


3 Scotts OG that are the latest victims to pm. Never had to spray greencure and saw no pm, a few spots on lower bud leaves, harvested the 1st plant and pm is all inside the flowers.
picture.php



VEG ROOM
picture.php


BLOOM ROOM
picture.php


2nd Row all 4 are I would call healthy. nice green, strong stem, they are small so the 4 are not crowded in that row. Close to the 1000W Bulb, getting a tonne of air directly on the entire plant. ALL are getting hit hard with PM
picture.php
 
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PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
Have you tried the uv clean lights.they wipe out pm.

No I haven't, I didn't want to spend $300 USD on a product that is made by 1 company holding the patent, and the results seem hit an miss. It needs to be used everyday on every part of the plant for several seconds, and the 11 Watt bulb needs to be within 2 inches from plant surface (sounds pretty tricky and time consuming). It doens't actually kill spores, just mycelium. I will keep it in mind, feel free to share your experience in greater detail. After this last year, whenever someone says "it wipes it out", I can't help but chuckle.
 

barefrog

Member
Hola Gang


Do you mean a Uvonaire


its a UV lamp with a fan


It will kill most small bugs
like mite and all and also
fungus etc.
You will have to put it on

timer and I dont recommand
living in the same building
or having any life in the building
Ozone can be very toxic


that is why it work.


Bare
 

barefrog

Member
Hola


I have it all around my place
Last yr I put slufur powder

around the hole where l put
the plant. I also did reseach
to find strain that were resistant
to PM Nitemare critical was my
choice. I did not get any on the plant.


even if 3 ft away rassberry were
full of it.
You did more then any to solve
your problem but like you said
if you miss one little place it start
all over again.


indoor one goji got it bad none
of the other 1ft away catch it
I put some sulfur powder on
the top dirt and some dematoe dirt
mist the plant every day after removing
leaf with pm on them. a few week later
it was gone


Bare
 

PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
Here are all the strains I have currently going. Most I had just started in the last month as I wanted to go out with a bang and give it my best shot before I pack her in.

Bodhi
More Cowbell (GSC Forum Cut x 88HP/G13)
Goji OG (Nepali OG x Snow Lotus)
Dream Lotus (Blue Dream x Snow Lotus)
Sunshine Daydream (Bubbashine x Appalachia)

TGA
Agent Orange (Orange Velvet X Jack The Ripper)

Rare Dankness
Scott’s OG (Triangle Kush x Rare Dankness#1)

Karma Genetics
Headbanger (Sour Diesel IBL x Biker Kush 2.0)
Mandarin Kush (Mandarin x Biker Kush)

Tony Greens Tortured Beans
Gorilla Bubble (GG#4 x Sour Bubble)
Lime Gorrilla Bubble (GG#4 x Sour Bubble *Lime Pheno)
Gorilla Haze (SuperSilverSourDiesel Haze x Gorilla Bubble)

DoubleTriple
Strawberry Gum (Strawberry Cough x Pink Bazooka Bubblegum)
Cookies n Gum (GSC Forum Cut x Pink Bazooka Bubblegum)

BadDawg
Brown Sugar Leaf (Brown Sugar x Long Bottom Leaf)
Deadheaded Dragon (Deadhead x 3 Headed Dragon)
Atonic Dragon (Atonic x 3 Headed Dragon)

Female Seeds
Blueberry Cheesecake (Blueberry x Cheese)
 

PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
Ok I will add it to the list of things to try eventually, although Im looking to find a cure and rid the pm systemically once and for all, versus weekly control applications to keep it at bay.(which still end up inside the flower as you can spray inside the buds in the last few weeks!
 

rjrom90

Active member
A few things that helped me beat the ubiquitous PM without using fungicides:


Increase air porosity of your medium
Balance Fe:Mn to 1:1
Balance Ca:K to 1:1
Let pH swing from 5.8 - 6.5 to allow uptake of all elements
Maybe add some boron to increase Ca uptake
 

PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
A few things that helped me beat the ubiquitous PM without using fungicides:


Increase air porosity of your medium
Balance Fe:Mn to 1:1
Balance Ca:K to 1:1
Let pH swing from 5.8 - 6.5 to allow uptake of all elements
Maybe add some boron to increase Ca uptake

I usually had 30% perlite in my pro mix, and in my organic soil mix I shoot for 40 to 50%

I grow in organic soil so I hope that has similar benefits as the feed ratio (as in the plant taking what it needs)
 

rjrom90

Active member
Indeed, the plant should be taking up what it needs as long as the microbes are happy. However this relies to some extent on root exudates which is a result of optimal photosynthesis. Imbalanced micronutrient ratios can drastically reduce photosynthesis, but once balanced the plant will release root exudates and allow microbes to balance out the NPK uptake. Maybe try the BIG6 micronutrient pack from BuildASoil which is high in manganese with no iron added, although it's hard to say if Fe:Mn ratio is the problem without a soil test.


Edit: Forgot to say that should be plenty of perlite as long as the dust has been removed.
 
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PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
Indeed, the plant should be taking up what it needs as long as the microbes are happy. However this relies to some extent on root exudates which is a result of optimal photosynthesis. Imbalanced micronutrient ratios can drastically reduce photosynthesis, but once balanced the plant will release root exudates and allow microbes to balance out the NPK uptake. Maybe try the BIG6 micronutrient pack from BuildASoil which is high in manganese with no iron added, although it's hard to say if Fe:Mn ratio is the problem without a soil test.


Edit: Forgot to say that should be plenty of perlite as long as the dust has been removed.

Sounds interesting for sure, Im open to learning more about this approach, so you are saying you are 100% confident that you currently have stock that is infected, but is not creating spores in flowering at all? And if so, how were you able to figure out that it was this fertilizer regiment that was responsible for the change as opposed to one of many variables or factors?

I guess thats what Im looking for in this post, which was to hear from people that are able to keep it from creating spores, without any weekly spraying, or that cured it 100% and are following an ipm since and have been outbreak free.

Thanks guys, good responses in the first day. This is all Ive done today, is make this post and read up.
 

rjrom90

Active member
Sounds interesting for sure, Im open to learning more about this approach, so you are saying you are 100% confident that you currently have stock that is infected, but is not creating spores in flowering at all? And if so, how were you able to figure out that it was this fertilizer regiment that was responsible for the change as opposed to one of many variables or factors?

I guess thats what Im looking for in this post, which was to hear from people that are able to keep it from creating spores, without any weekly spraying, or that cured it 100% and are following an ipm since and have been outbreak free.

Thanks guys, good responses in the first day. This is all Ive done today, is make this post and read up.
Check out the AEA podcasts for more information about this topic. Here is a good one to start with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5XbJEuvKS4


I do currently have plants with PM on the lower growth which has not spread past the point on the plant where I changed nutrient profiles. The new growth is very waxy with much larger leaf size. One leaf did start to get a small spot of PM but the next day it had become a small spot of necrosis, which seems to be a sign that the plant's immune system is effectively functioning by quarantining the infected region of tissue.
 
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Hi Pauliewaulie. It sounds like a living hell you have been going through and growing is not meant to be that much of a chore. I have never had PM in 20+ years of indoor so maybe something in what I have done differently to you is the key to our very different experience.

Ventilation - I think the most fundamental issue is that you vent your exhaust within your house. Air from your grow should always be vented externally so that only un-circulated fresh air is coming in. Exhaust air should also be vented from a high point in your grow space.

Strain choice - I have always grown sativa-leaning hybrids. Indica's are more susceptible to PM than sativa's typically.

Plant numbers - you seem to have a lot of plants. I usually only flower 1 or two big plants under 600w of light. Cramming lots of plants under one light, especially different strains increases the chance that one will get PM and therefore expose all the others to spore attack.

Humidity - I have never checked my humidity but I will take certain steps to minimize it when the atmospheric RH is high. When it's hot and humid I max the flow of exhaust. When cold I will use a blow heater on thermostat to maintain desired temps. This heating of the air reduces RH as well as heating the space.

Plant health from the roots up - healthy plants are better able to resist fungal attack. If you cannot maintain a perfect soil environment at all times (this takes experience and expertise) then you would be better off with run-to-waste hydro using an inert media. I hand water all my plants in a simple perlite/vermiculite media. My plants are 100% healthy at all times with minimal effort.

Insect attack - prevent rather than cure. Fungus gnats weaken the plant and damage from sucking insects (spider mites etc) allow an entry point for PM which may otherwise not take hold. I am not suggesting you have problems with these but I thought I would mention them anyway.

It seems like your only option now is to completely shut down your whole operation and start afresh with new genetics. Hopefully you can leave the PM behind as you move forward. Good luck.
 

rjrom90

Active member
Here is a pretty informative article talking about some of the plant's calcium related defense mechanisms against PM.

https://www.maximumyield.com/what-to-do-about-powdery-mildew/2/1400


So how does it work? When a mold spore lands on a plant leaf, it wants to send down a feeding tube to get to the water between the cells to germinate and spread. But when the cell walls are thicker and there is an increased amount of calcium-pectate between the cells, the mold spores just sit there.


By the time the germination tube penetrates the cells, it dries up and dies. The pectin doesn’t kill the powdery mildew, it just prevents it from becoming systemic in a plant and spreading.
Increased calcium uptake also provides a reserve of natural protection against PM. Any extra calcium a plant doesn’t use to strengthen the cell walls is pumped into a storage vacuole inside the cell. If a mold spore does happen to germinate, sensors on the surface of the leaf detect the chitin in the cell wall of the fungus. Plants don’t contain chitin—they contain cellulose.

So when chitin is detected, the plants send a signal molecule from the leaf surface down to the vacuole, opening up calcium ion channels inside the cell. The calcium ions released start a chain reaction that causes an oxidative burst—a plant’s first line of defense against PM.
It seems that PM resistance is lowered by a cellular imbalance of calcium with other positivley charged cations, mainly magnesium and potassium.
 

insomniac_AU

Active member
Hi everyone! I've always heard horror stories about PM. Is it something that is more common in the northern hemisphere? I've been Growing a long time in Australia and have never encountered it. Spider mites yes, whitefly yes, fungus gnats yes but never PM. Have I just been lucky? I hope you can find a solution and get rid of it for good.
 

Guy Brush

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
420giveaway
Dont overwater your indoor garden! Also check the outside if there is any gardener near you who waters his or her garden too much. I did it myself once and my zucchinis died from the pm they got and affected other plants too. Try to keep the soil as dry as possible without drying them out ! Dont ever foliar spray anything but a fungicide in case of emergency early in veg . A good fungicide has to be applied only once. Milk and bicarbonate don't help much but instead are moistening the soil too much because you have to apply them every other day to keep up with the pm. It's a vicious circle. Also when watering try to not to wet the plant at all but only the soil. Better daily watering control then longer periods! Hope that helps.
 

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