Indoor sativa grow question

Fitzera · Jul 8, 2019

I'm setting up for my next run which consists of

2x Ace Panama x Banji Haze fem
2x Ace Zamaldelica fem
2x CBG Destroyer fem
2x Beanhoarder Sour D x SSH
2x Peak Sweet C99
1x Ethos Black Fire Chem

My question pertains to the first 3 strains, this is my first attempt with sativas. I'm trying to decide between 2 gal and 3 gal pots. This will be a soil grow, light super soil to be exact so I have the option to add nutrients if requires. The other plants will get a mix of light and heavily amended super soil.

I understand the rootbound technique of forcing flower but I also dont want to short myself too much on final results by going too small. I plan on topping at least once and will do lst as required.

I can handle a final height of between 48-60"...54" being ideal.

Plenty of light, 600w hps, 450w (actual draw) g8 led and 4 autocobs.

So...2 gal or 3 gal pots for the sativas?

Any other tips are welcomed.

EvergreenState · Jul 9, 2019

In a High Times issue on growing sativas the author used very large pots. I think it was 10gal. in veg. and 20 in flower. Of course you need large spaces for that but you get the point. The bigger the better.

Fitzera · Jul 9, 2019

EvergreenState said:
In a High Times issue on growing sativas the author used very large pots. I think it was 10gal. in veg. and 20 in flower. Of course you need large spaces for that but you get the point. The bigger the better.

Haha thats not going to happen in a tent

RandyCalifornia · Jul 10, 2019

Hey Fitzera Nice seed selection. I have best control starting with small pots as possible at first till roots show out the bottom then step up to the next size till you get to the end of your veg stage weather starting from seeds or clones. The last transplant should be shorter time duration and the rootball less developed and always go into as big as you can pot size in the end.

I'm growing some Nigerian, I start with rooted cuts into 3" for a few days under vegging hours, I use 12-5-2-5.
Then I transplant into 5" for two weeks and develop the plant shape as it vegges.
Then I plant into 1.5gallon and start 12-13 for another 2 weeks.
Next into 3gal one more week at 12/12 where then the plant starts to convert energy to flowering and stretches rather than getting too much bulkier in size.
Lastly into 10gallon till finish where they have enough nutrient amended already composted coco soil to properly finish in two or three months. If I need I have already composted bloom amended coco soil to top dress with till finish.
In small pots you will get root bound quickly especially if you amend the soil and use nutes, I think you gotta watch out to not rush the plants at first and get a big plant and then put it into flower when it's using lots of water and root bound.
This system need to be tailored to variety being grown and takes a little thinking with each variety each time getting better on the timing due to growth rate and stretch rate for that variety.
Hope that helps and gives you some food for thought. Good luck, can't wait to see how it turns out for you.

JockBudman · Jul 10, 2019

I read somewhere - maybe on here, maybe on another forum I lurk on - that smaller pots are key to running landrace or hyper stretchy sativas indoors.

The basic technique is to veg for a few weeks from seed in a small pot then chuck them straight into flower. You allow the plant to get root bound until it's done stretching then pot up once the final height is reached allowing them to use the new soil as food for the buds.

I've not tried this yet myself but the next grow I'm doing will be ace Panama for f2 seeds and a cross with my main two mums and I'll be trying this tech on the Panama to control height and run the cycle faster.

Fitzera · Jul 10, 2019

JockBudman said:
I read somewhere - maybe on here, maybe on another forum I lurk on - that smaller pots are key to running landrace or hyper stretchy sativas indoors.

The basic technique is to veg for a few weeks from seed in a small pot then chuck them straight into flower. You allow the plant to get root bound until it's done stretching then pot up once the final height is reached allowing them to use the new soil as food for the buds.

I've not tried this yet myself but the next grow I'm doing will be ace Panama for f2 seeds and a cross with my main two mums and I'll be trying this tech on the Panama to control height and run the cycle faster.

This is exactly where I'm coming from. The thing is, I've been seeing some grows where they were in bigger pots, topped multiple times and that kept the final height below 5' and lots of flowers. So I'm just trying to make the decision as to 2gal or 3gal for my first attempt. I'm leaning towards 3s

Drewsif · Jul 10, 2019

Root binding technique? Hippy bullshit. Show some science.

But this is the internet, so transplanting stress is a myth. In the real world though, transplanting is for suckers.

troutman · Jul 10, 2019

A 2 gallon pot will probably produce a tree unless you flower very early and can train the plant. I use
no more than 14 hours to vegetate Sativas and flower after 2 or 3 weeks. Sativas will stretch a lot
until flowering is well on it's way which is normally at least 5 weeks into flowering. Go light on the
nutrients. Too many people fry their Sativas these days with every nutrient under the sky.

Fitzera · Jul 11, 2019

troutman said:
A 2 gallon pot will probably produce a tree unless you flower very early and can train the plant. I use
no more than 14 hours to vegetate Sativas and flower after 2 or 3 weeks. Sativas will stretch a lot
until flowering is well on it's way which is normally at least 5 weeks into flowering. Go light on the
nutrients. Too many people fry their Sativas these days with every nutrient under the sky.

Thanks troutman! Exactly what I wanted to hear. I've got the seedlings under 18/6 currently but I'll switch that up to 14/10 shortly. I saw a post where you mentioned they dont require more than 14hrs of light in veg and anymore is a waste of $.

My plan was to switch to flower at absolutely no taller than 12". Topped at least once, if not twice. But I also have a 2 week vacation coming up so I have to play it by ear. Take it as it comes.

I use super soils, one is store bought and I find it's not hot. Never burned new seedlings. Also never provided enough nutrients to take them to harvest. I also build my own recycled soil that is heavily amended and had nitrogen toxicity on the last round but did provide nutrients right to harvest. I was thinking I might throw in 1/4 of the hot stuff mixed into the mild but I dont want to fry them. So I probably best just use the mild and use fertilizer when required.

troutman · Jul 11, 2019

I normally use Pro-Mix with a little extra added vermiculite and try to feed mostly organic
if I can. I also don't feed until they make their 2nd or 3rd set of real leaves either.

Gauss · Jul 11, 2019

JockBudman · Jul 11, 2019

Drewsif said:
Root binding technique? Hippy bullshit. Show some science.

But this is the internet, so transplanting stress is a myth. In the real world though, transplanting is for suckers.

I can't post the link due to TOU but if you Google "growing tropical sativas indoors" and add on UK then append with 420 (hoping that doesn't violate any rules) you'll find a stickied post that outlines the technique along with a few bits I forgot, such as topping once early on.

It's a cross post from the real seed company forums so the technique has been tried out by serious landrace growers and found to be successful.

But then again, more than one way to skin a cat eh? I don't doubt you can do it differently by heavy scrogging, insane amounts of light etc. I've also tried shit like 12/12 from seed then topping and revegging but that doesn't work as well.

I would cross post the thread myself but I'm on a phone and busy right now so if people can't find it I'll get on a laptop later and try to copy it all over.

:tiphat:

Fitzera · Jul 11, 2019

Lots of good information here, thanks guys. I was trying to find the various posts that I knew I read the bits of info in. Now it's in one place, I appreciate it immensely.

Mr. Greengenes · Jul 11, 2019

Root binding technique? Hippy bullshit. Show some science.

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1300/J072v03n02_02?journalCode=wztf20

Iowa Grown · Jul 12, 2019

For any sativa I grow indoors where I have a height restriction I always go with a solo sized pot for the first 21 days, then I up-pot to a 1 gallon nursery pot for another 21 days, then I up-pot the plant again to a 3 gallon cloth pot, and then I let the plant settle in for another 14 days before I flip them, but I also top the tops of any sativa I am growing indoors at least twice, because even then I always end up with a 3.5 ft. to 4.5 ft. plant in a "TRUE" 3 gallon cloth pot. I said "true" because to-date I have not found a cloth pot whether they are 3, 4, 5, 7, or 10 gallon cloth pot(s) that will hold its stated volume. They always seem to hold on average of 15% less than their stated volumes' value! Oh yeah... I almost forgot, when I grow any sativa indoors I let the plant grow until 6 nodes fully grow-out, then I top the plant at the 5th node, making a clone out of that top. Then I top the 5th nodes (2) off-branches once they grow out a single node set. That will then keep the plant from overstretching vertically when she gets kicked into flowering, and it also always seems to create a nice even canopy.

Mr. Greengenes · Jul 13, 2019

I always go with a solo sized pot for the first 21 days, then I up-pot to a 1 gallon nursery pot for another 21 days, then I up-pot the plant again to a 3 gallon cloth pot, and then I let the plant settle in for another 14 days before I flip them

Great point Iowa Grown. I think my constant repotting is one of the main reasons I've been able to grow and breed sativas indoors so easily. People who go direct from a solo cup to a 3 gallon pot will have much more trouble.

Fitzera · Jul 18, 2019

Thank you for all the replies. Tomorrow they go from solo cups to 1gal. Let the adventure begin

Fitzera · Jul 20, 2019

I would have gone a little longer in the solo cups but holidays are coming up and I want them to get established and a few more nodes before I top them. I also screwed up when i started them and used one of my cobs initially instead of the t5s like i usually do (wasnt really thinking), that caused them to stretch like mad. My wife did an excellent job for her first time setting up the tent and transplanting for me while I'm away at work.

troutman · Jul 20, 2019

Just know pure Sativas tend to stretch 2-5X after they go into flowering.

So think about how tall you want them to end up. :tiphat:

Fitzera · Jul 20, 2019

troutman said:
Just know pure Sativas tend to stretch 2-5X after they go into flowering.

So think about how tall you want them to end up.

Yes, very aware...that's why I plan to top a couple times and then flip. I'm going to keep them quite short before the flip. Currently have them on the 14/10 light schedule.

This run is all a learning experience so I'm going in with no real expectations, just need to do it myself to see how things react and all that.

Thanks for the added hesds up!

Indoor sativa grow question

Active member

Active member

Active member

Well endowed member

Well-known member

Active member

Member

Seed Whore

Active member

Seed Whore

Gauss

Well-known member

Active member

Re-incarnated Senior Member

New member

Re-incarnated Senior Member

Active member

Active member

Seed Whore

Active member