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Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
I cant imagine how standing water wouldnt raise the humidity in a room. If exhaust isnt cycling on and room is warm ie: above 70F how its not possible with plant foliage, wet soil or medium to achieve a +50% to the ambient RH? Is the humidity below 30% to start off? Seems like a humidifier, evap cooler, misting system, and or build something using a floating ultrasonic fogger like the ones pictured here http://www.mainlandmart.com/foggers.html Would be valid ways to put moisture into the air for 8 hrs .. scale up accordingly. No matter if you live in the desert the solutions to raising humidity are pretty straight forward and not that expensive. The cost is relative.
I used to farm mushrooms and am well versed in maintaining high RH 80- 100% on a large scale.
It strikes me as odd that a grower with 250 lights finds it challenging to raise the RH in a controlled environment.

Av,
Im not sure if the 6 lighter comment was in reference to big soil little room... and or was an assumption of limited experience on my part? or maybe Im reading in too much...? I certainly dont share every grow or try and show all my cards. Once a year Ill share a grow I feel may be of value to others.

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Milky, I downloaded the video to my OSX and then renamed it and uploaded it again. It should be available to everyone for viewing... Ill see if I can get it working if not..
No I dont worry about K levels being too high. Now that my soil is not high in K and from how I understand it the plant wont uptake via foliar if it doesnt need it. Should I be worried about K being absorbed and translocated to the roots and pushing out Ca from the exchange sites? Or just not uptaking Ca from the exchange sites due the plant being saturated with K? What if the plant already is full of Ca and the exchange sites are loaded as well? Does K still antagonize the Ca already present? Either way Id much rather have high levels of K than broadmites and no crop. Ive yet to hit 70% base saturation of Ca and have consistently gotten 2-2.5 lbs a light indoors with K levels in the soil being twice to three times higher than desired values.
Thats not considering what is happening with heavy K silicate use on top of it. You saw the melting leaves in the bigsoil thread... Still did well with yield and quality was good. Not to say Im not striving to make it better but in a situation like broad mite infestation Ill take my chances with too much K any day...

About the spider being beneficial,... well I guess he wasnt listed, lol. Im not really concerned with the spider, more of if my swirskis and other predators will live through the spray. It lists mortality rates for beneficial insects posted earlier. I believe they list swirskis at 25%.. I dont plan on spraying fungi anymore after I introduce them. They will be the clean up crew so to speak... I may try and spray a test colony to see how well they fair..
Did you see the labels I posted in the beginning of the thread?



Im not touting PFR to be the best solution to the situation just sharing my opinion and what Ive found along the way, good and bad. If this was a grow show, I wouldnt be posting in the infirmary...


No Disrespect Intended to anyone. It may read that way but its often hard to understand one's true sentiments over the internet. At least not without the overuse of emoticons. LOL

Respectfully,

FE
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
I do not grow in the desert, so maybe it isnt possible to reach 80% RH growing indoors. Must be like trying to grow in a vacuum oven..?
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
it takes me to login sign up page... if you close the tiny window by clicking the x .. it says preview failed but still allows me to download and save the file to my computer despite looking like it wont work....
 

DrFever

Active member
Veteran
i used to have problems when starting a grow ,,, i used Walmart vaporizers in front of fans it bumped up RH rather well good for approx 10 hrs fully filled worked really good in early veg once foilage was on plant RH came naturally from dam[ soil and plant so

http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/equate-2100wm-can-vapourizer/6000016953887

maybe couple of these in certain areas around fans also have even used a wet towel over a fan to increase RH in a room
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Av,
Im not sure if the 6 lighter comment was in reference to big soil little room... and or was an assumption of limited experience on my part? or maybe Im reading in too much...? I certainly dont share every grow or try and show all my cards. Once a year Ill share a grow I feel may be of value to others.


FE

no, wasnt in reference to your big soil little room ( i love that thread, just started reading thru it), was more in reference to my own rooms that average 6 lites in flowering, and my own experience with them
not making any assumptions about you, and i don't think of you as someone with limited exp (rather someone with extensive knowledge).
tossing h2o on the floor will temporarily raise humidity, just not something i wana be doing all the time to keep that rh up (then again, i dont have a subfloor like in the bigsoil room where water on the floor would fall beneath where i walk, could you even walk into that room?). I appreciate you sharing your grow and knowledge and experience, wasn't trying to take a shot, or be a smartass...
def reading in too much :tiphat:
what you were picking up on is my frustration at being unable to achieve proper humidity in my rooms since relocating to a very arid environment. previously i was in a super humid place and was familiar with battling HIGH humidity.
photosynthesis knows my pain. even in LARGE ops with extensive environmental controls low humidity can an issue (unless dealing with well sealed rooms, which imo tend to have PLENTY of humidity).

I do not grow in the desert, so maybe it isnt possible to reach 80% RH growing indoors. Must be like trying to grow in a vacuum oven..?
never thought of it like that but.... exactly,
especially since i run rooms with LOTS of air exchange, open hoods, lots of air circulation. rooms that generally have negative air pressure.
 

Dready_jake

Member
This is a good community. Not in this thread but anytime I get into a disagreement with someone we present facts experience and knowledge til we reach a mutual agreement. No bullshit huffing and puffing lol. Yet....:D
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Downloading now....thanks FE.

I have no clue on uptake other than john claims the plant has limited cation and anion uptake just like soil. And then nova says a plant can take up 50% more nitrate than it can use. Is K the same way...I don't know.

I use sea shield to supply si along with adding it to the soil.
 

panick503

Member
Doing everything you stated still doesn't get 250 lights in colorado to over 35% humidity. It's not easy at all here.

Heh well if ur rocking 250 lights (think I read that right...) u should be able to afford a commercial greenhouse humidification system... or be able to employ how ever many hippies it takes to dump enough water on the floor to get ur humidity up... whatever easier...
 

panick503

Member
Just remembered the Coco Tree thread, that dude is straight ROCKING a high humidity garden in Colorado with no humidifiers...
 
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Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Even in a sealed room in the PNW you can fight humidity. Some 5 tons will strip a room below 35% unless it's chock full, I've even struggled to maintain 50 filled to the brim. Bloody units should be sold as dehums... Sure wish I'd known about ultrasonic foggers back then, maybe if I get my shits in a row again I'll find a need :D
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Just remembered the Coco Tree thread, that dude is straight ROCKING a high humidity garden in Colorado with no humidifiers...

post a link to the coco trees thread, pls.
like i said before, if you are in a well sealed room, rh/vpd doesn't seem to be much of a problem in CO.... doesn't have that "vac oven" effect.
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
here is a pic of the early stages of BM infestation.

Notice the curling of the leaf tips and rough looking texture to the new growth. Normally that texture is what lets me know I need to water my plants. Normally the whole plant takes on this texture as it begins to gets low on water. With BM's it is concentrated on the new growth and youll notice leaves twisting, curling, tacoing, and sometimes a blade will even flip you off...


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FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
The above pic was taken a couple weeks ago.
Im going to do a random selection for examination tonight and also exam the ugliest out of the gene pool. So far its looking like they have been beaten back. Tops are looking healthy and growing straight, no curls. Doenst mean Ive won, just that something is working. Ill wait til I do an microscope exam before I can say for sure. ..
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
:yeahthats
thanks retrogro

and FE, i just finished reading the big soil little room thread, it's great and full of good info, just one question, what happened? seems like the thread ended.... rather suddenly without anyone taking note...
anyhow, whatever happened in little rooom full of big soil, I'm thankful for your input on the site.
 

MendocinoOrgani

New member
Looked around Northern California for PFR97 and it's just not here. Spoke with the regional sales guy and he said, "you must have an ag permit from the County and PFR has to be listed on the permit." But, no one actually stocks the stuff. Ended up getting BioWar today and have cucumeris on the way. Here is what I am going to try for the next two weeks. Days 1-3 heat spaces to 115 for two hours each day. Spray OG Biowar tea foliar on day 4. 50,000 cucumbers on day 5. Day 7 25,000 more cucumeris, Day 9 OG Biowar tea foliar. Then once a week with the OG Biowar, and release the rest of the cucumeris. I grow in soma beds with soil. Anyone see anything wrong with this? FatherEarth?
 

mojave green

rockin in the free world
Veteran
I do not grow in the desert, so maybe it isnt possible to reach 80% RH growing indoors. Must be like trying to grow in a vacuum oven..?
It has its good side, no mold.:laughing:
I use a gutted swamp cooler for passive intake and a pond fogger hooked up to humidistat. It sits in my ro Rez. I can keep bloom room at 40 to 60 rh. Veg runs around 50. VPD must be managed for healthy happy plants. Room runs 70f. I consider proper ventilation job #1.
Shut down for monsoon season (July-August)
Swampy don't work well for cooling when outdoor rh gets high. And running fogger in heat of day is futile since air exchange is near constant. Swampy can keep it about 40 without fogger.
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