What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

There is nothing that can kill thrips! NOTHING! HELP ME, THEY ARE KILLING MY PLANTS

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Have a bunch of coco that is infested with RT. I was using the Bayer product until I found a study which just used hot water. That is all I use now and it works great for me. Real simple, fast and easy! I do not have a link , but here is the info you would need to look it up as well as a bit of a summary :
"Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University"

The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
/all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication.
The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 125F water.

I found that tap water and a thermometer were all I needed to be rid of them . Hope it works out as well for you .

Phylloxera are not thrips. They are related to root aphids. However, you are correct about the hot water "trick". Water heated to 120 degrees F will kill most pests,while leaving the plant undamaged. This works against broad mites, russet mites, I'm guessing spider mites,although I haven't researched it, and many other pests. If your plants are large, it becomes more of a logistical problem to find a container large enough to dip the plant. You only dip the plant, not container/medium. 10 or 15 minutes in 120 degrees temperatures will kill most small pests. Not sure if this works only in water, or whether it will work by raising grow room temps to that level. Seems likely that this would work, but haven't tried it. But for cuts, clones, small plants, dipping in hot water is the way to go.
 

Weird

3rd-Eye Jedi
Veteran
the main ingredient in Monterey garden spray is spinosad

here is the product label: http://www.7springsfarm.com/Spinosadmontereyinsectlabel.pdf

here is the occupation hazard study done it which reports null health risk

http://hazmap.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/hazmap_generic?tbl=TblAgents&id=7193

the chemical carcinogen research results are completely negative

the hazard substance data banks records of toxicology appear negative

to access these data bases and see for yourself

click here -> http://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/ and type spinosad in the search box and choose the

Chemical Carcinogenesis Information
database and

Hazardous Substances Data Bank

which have results for every toxicology test done on a given toxin

moterey garden spray has instructions for use on leafy green vegetables and safe to harvest times HOWEVER

it also breaks down in soil in two weeks yet remains a effective

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinosad

Use

Spinosad was registered in 1997, and has been used around the world for the control of a variety of insect pests such as Lepidoptera,Diptera, Thysanoptera, Coleoptera, Orthoptera, Hymenoptera, and many others.[8] Spinosad was first registered in the United States for the use on crops in 1997.[8] Its labeled use rate is set at 1 ppm (1 mg a.i./kg of grain) and its Maximum Residue Limit (MRL) or tolerance set at 1.5 ppm. Spinosad’s widespread commercial launch has been deferred while awaiting final MRL or tolerance approvals in a few remaining grain-importing countries. Spinosad is considered a natural product and thus approved for use in organic agriculture by numerous nations.[5] Two other uses for Spinosad are for canines, felines, and humans. Spinosad has recently been used to treat C. felis in canines, and felines, the optimal dose set for canines is reported to be 30 mg/kg.[2]


Safety

Spinosad has high efficacy, broad insect pest spectrum, low mammalian toxicity, and a perfect environmental profile. This is a unique feature of an insecticide, compared to others that are currently used for the protection of grain products.[5] Spinosad is considered a natural product and approved for use in organic agriculture by numerous national and international certifications.[8] Spinosad residues are highly stable on grains stored in bins, with protection ranging from 6 months to 2 years.[5]
 

TGT

Tom 'Green' Thumb
Veteran
I have wrote this many times in the past, but any mite or thrip infestation can be killed in three days flat by using a product called 'No Pest Strips". They come in a red pack here in Canada, and look like a bug catcher, but don't work the same. They have a piece of absorbant material inside that is soaked in Diclovus. It is the only product I know of as strong and the best thing is you do not need to spray your plants. Just turn off the fans and air, or best you can, and put in the NPS leaning against the plants pot. In a space 5 by 5 one to two will be fine. I use about four everytime I grow to prevent and I have not had a bug problem in years. If using to erradicate mites or thrips, buy one for each large plant. I can't preach enough about this product and I find it amazing no one else has talked about them. From experience with mites to the point I had webs it erradicated all of them. Give them atry and see.

Sorry for the errors, I spilt coffee on my keyboard lol.

TGT
 
O

OrganicOzarks

I have wrote this many times in the past, but any mite or thrip infestation can be killed in three days flat by using a product called 'No Pest Strips". They come in a red pack here in Canada, and look like a bug catcher, but don't work the same. They have a piece of absorbant material inside that is soaked in Diclovus. It is the only product I know of as strong and the best thing is you do not need to spray your plants. Just turn off the fans and air, or best you can, and put in the NPS leaning against the plants pot. In a space 5 by 5 one to two will be fine. I use about four everytime I grow to prevent and I have not had a bug problem in years. If using to erradicate mites or thrips, buy one for each large plant. I can't preach enough about this product and I find it amazing no one else has talked about them. From experience with mites to the point I had webs it erradicated all of them. Give them atry and see.

Sorry for the errors, I spilt coffee on my keyboard lol.

TGT

If I am not mistaken the "no pest strips" say to not use them indoors. I have read a lot about how toxic they are. Especially if you use them indoors.
 

PoopyTeaBags

State Liscensed Care Giver/Patient, Assistant Trai
Veteran
I have wrote this many times in the past, but any mite or thrip infestation can be killed in three days flat by using a product called 'No Pest Strips". They come in a red pack here in Canada, and look like a bug catcher, but don't work the same. They have a piece of absorbant material inside that is soaked in Diclovus. It is the only product I know of as strong and the best thing is you do not need to spray your plants. Just turn off the fans and air, or best you can, and put in the NPS leaning against the plants pot. In a space 5 by 5 one to two will be fine. I use about four everytime I grow to prevent and I have not had a bug problem in years. If using to erradicate mites or thrips, buy one for each large plant. I can't preach enough about this product and I find it amazing no one else has talked about them. From experience with mites to the point I had webs it erradicated all of them. Give them atry and see.

Sorry for the errors, I spilt coffee on my keyboard lol.

TGT

These things work great but only for veg... In flower the buds soak up the insecticide.... not a good thing. They are super strong and not intended to be around. They are met for places you or your animals are not. if you dont have a infestation i wouldnt have those around.
 

phellowship

Member
used monterey spinosad in veg never in flower after 1st week ,with 3 app and there gone if not then a 4th and im happy again.saw some in flower when i was killin some spider mites and dumped a few packs of ladybugs in the tent and noticed that were all gone after that.just dead ladybugs everywhere
 

Talonted

Active member
uhhh. dunno if you are a chem nut like some others but i read a post in a home and garden for a DIY using 1 clove of garlic and 1/4 of a white onion in a blender with 1lt of water then foliar spray after separating the sediment. I have tried it in veg and to this day still have the same strains and no thrips. it does leave a onion funk in your garden but just rinse away with water after a day or two.
 

Talonted

Active member
This late into flower i would say just shake em off. They run when they see you and don't have very good grip. hang one plant over your bathtub and giver a smack for harboring known terrorizers!!
 

joe fresh

Active member
Mentor
Veteran
best thing i used for thrips is drdoom bug bomb...i just bought 100 clones last run and they were infested with thrips, so i contained them in their own room and unleashed a bug bomb on them and left them in it for a good 3 hours....never seen a thrip again...
 

catalyte

Active member
Veteran
bit of an outbreak of these destructive bastards over here...

i have been using Neem Oil (with a surfactant) over 3-4 days for 3 applications so far cause thrips eggs hatch every 3-4 days. There is some bad damage on older growth leaves but new growth is looking healthy.

i would like to use a Spinosad product but i have no source locally... i think in the future i'll have to get it thru the mail. Is Spinosad really necessary to kill them off?

is Neem Oil enough?

damn these critters got me stressing out!!
 
S

speedemon

I used Plant Vitality Plus on mine about a year ago and not seen them since :) I have also used Bayers 3in1 which also takes them out and is also great for Powdery mildew as forms a gloss on the leaf that stops it coming back.
 

vukman

Active member
Veteran
I used Pyrethrin..2 applications about 5 days apart and mixed Neem Oil into the water when I watered them...DEAD!!!!!!!!!! NO MORE COOTIES!!!

You have to hit them twice around 5-7 days apart and catch the ones you missed that were buried in the soil as pupae.

I did buy Spinosad also but have no need for it...My girls are all happy with not a cootie (Thrip) in sight.

Good Luck
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
Use any spray or bomb that has the ingredient "NYLAR" in it...

Nylar makes it impossible for the thrips to reproduce, there are all dead within a day, WORKS VERY WELL....
 

mack 10

Well-known member
Veteran
Have a bunch of coco that is infested with RT. I was using the Bayer product until I found a study which just used hot water. That is all I use now and it works great for me. Real simple, fast and easy! I do not have a link , but here is the info you would need to look it up as well as a bit of a summary :
"Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines: Biology and Treatment of
Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips
Bernadine Strik and Paula Stonerod
Associate Professor and Research Aide, Dept. of Horticulture
Oregon State University"

The objectives of this study are to determine methods for dipping of young grape vine nursery stock that
will eradicate existing phylloxera populations without causing plant damage.
/all life stages of phylloxera were subjected to hot water dips in 125*F water
for 0, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 minutes to determine potential for eradication.
The results
showed that all life stages were killed with a 5 minute dip in 125F water.

I found that tap water and a thermometer were all I needed to be rid of them . Hope it works out as well for you .
Great post. Drown/boil them to death, i like it!
Mack.
 
Top