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Terpenation at Terpene Station
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
fuzzy dunlop
Member
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing, being new to the terp is was nice and helpful to see a another perspective
No problem. FD, I know what those shoes are like. I cut my teeth without the class, and I went super slow until I felt comfortable. I had instructions but sometimes it helps to see with your hands. If you have pictures to share please do. Everyone who has Terpenator pics and info is welcome to post here, owners and owners to be.
Terpin It,
FE
Terpin It,
FE
Purging methods arent really anything out of the ordinary. I have been mainly purging in the vac chamber with low heat. At first I was going with super thin layers and heat for long periods then I found that for the consistency Im after, I need to do short vac sessions with medium heat.
It almost seems like short bursts of med almost high heat work better than longer periods of low heat.
I get darker end products with low and long. The best one seems to be flash of high heat before ever coming out of the terp. Flash I mean like 1 min tops, pull the terp out of the water bath and get some butane flowing to cool it quick, then the short vac sessions, about 4, hovering around but staying below 120f for approximately10-15 min each. This made the hardest shatter Ive made so far. Now Im starting to lean towards the ethanol purge. Its a no scraping purge, I dig that. Preheat some ethanol in a water bath and toss it in the finished terp run, close the lid and swish it around. Pour it out into a pyrex container that will fit in the collection vessel. Then I run it in the collection pot with my vac lid I made courtesy of GW and Skunk Pharm productions.
No heat unless its cooler than 60F then Ill heat it to 72 being sure not to go over 80F. Vac it to 29.9 let it sit for 10 min, release the vac. open the lid let it sit 2-5 min then vac again.
swirling the solution around between vac sessions helps a lot in trying to get it to dry. Last few sessions I leave the valve open and the pump running under deep vacuum, boiling the ethanol solution hard under vac until you can see the oil is getting thick. Once the oil bubbles get all huge and start to rise really high its about done. Pull it and sniff test for ethanol. My advice if you want the very best end product, do no heat extractions, no heat I mean nothing over room temp. The winterize the final product. You cant beat winterized oil for cleanliness or its smoothness. I just wish I could keep more of the terpene profile when I do it. Its clear as glass and it shatters like the patients demand. You lose out a considerable amount of the yield and it takes longer than any of the other methods Ive tried. I have never seen any offered as meds for sale probably for those reasons. Although, it is clean, no plant fats/ lipids, which are bad for the lungs and leave that waxy taste/film on the teeth when dabbing, are removed. I can take bigger dabs and not choke or cough like un-winterized oil.
You wont catch me dabbing any oil that hasnt been winterized these days. Thats whats in my medicine jar...It almost seems like short bursts of med almost high heat work better than longer periods of low heat.
I get darker end products with low and long. The best one seems to be flash of high heat before ever coming out of the terp. Flash I mean like 1 min tops, pull the terp out of the water bath and get some butane flowing to cool it quick, then the short vac sessions, about 4, hovering around but staying below 120f for approximately10-15 min each. This made the hardest shatter Ive made so far. Now Im starting to lean towards the ethanol purge. Its a no scraping purge, I dig that. Preheat some ethanol in a water bath and toss it in the finished terp run, close the lid and swish it around. Pour it out into a pyrex container that will fit in the collection vessel. Then I run it in the collection pot with my vac lid I made courtesy of GW and Skunk Pharm productions.
No heat unless its cooler than 60F then Ill heat it to 72 being sure not to go over 80F. Vac it to 29.9 let it sit for 10 min, release the vac. open the lid let it sit 2-5 min then vac again.
swirling the solution around between vac sessions helps a lot in trying to get it to dry. Last few sessions I leave the valve open and the pump running under deep vacuum, boiling the ethanol solution hard under vac until you can see the oil is getting thick. Once the oil bubbles get all huge and start to rise really high its about done. Pull it and sniff test for ethanol. My advice if you want the very best end product, do no heat extractions, no heat I mean nothing over room temp. The winterize the final product. You cant beat winterized oil for cleanliness or its smoothness. I just wish I could keep more of the terpene profile when I do it. Its clear as glass and it shatters like the patients demand. You lose out a considerable amount of the yield and it takes longer than any of the other methods Ive tried. I have never seen any offered as meds for sale probably for those reasons. Although, it is clean, no plant fats/ lipids, which are bad for the lungs and leave that waxy taste/film on the teeth when dabbing, are removed. I can take bigger dabs and not choke or cough like un-winterized oil.
A thermometer to reach the oil in the collection pot to keep a close monitor on the precise temp.
Ive also been thinking of adding another 6" sanitary spool to double stack the collection pot, then having a ferrule welded onto each of the two down pipes inside the lid. This way i can extend them when I double stack the spools and add a larger column. Ive read you want the vacuum hole to be about 6" above your boiling butane in the pot was thinking of adding a thread to the inside port to attach a small down pipe to meet that requirement, Im unsure yet. Definitely having another ferrule added to the lid for a thermometer addition though. Maybe GW could incorporate that into future models, as i see it being a most appreciated addition for many terp owners...
Respectfully,
FE
Once most of the ethanol is gone is when I get the big messy bubbles. You can vac a bit less hg so its not so violent if your worried about it. Im just trying to avoid heat so the vac helps a bunch in speeding up the process. I got more pics and things to share on the subject...coming up
The first thing that happens when you pull a vacuum, is that the solvent degases dissolved atmospheric gases, which causes violent bubbling, followed reasonably quiet evaporation, and then bubbles popping again in final purge.
We pull a vacuum until the violent bubbling starts, and then back off on the pressure just enough to contain the boiling.
When it calms down, we place a sheet of glass over the casserole dish, so that the rest of the bubble pops are contained.
This is a very interesting thread! I am days away from buying an extractor and I am so torn as what to get. Im on the fence because I like the ease of the Tamisium but I like the fact that with MKIII I can produce better. However I am a complete newbie and I just am not sure if I will know what I am doing with this set up verses the Tami. I guess my reason for posting was to ask if I am entry level and have zero idea as to how to extract what will be easier? I am very quick at catching on and I am very technical when needed but I do not want to devote a bunch of time to trial and error. I just want to make oil and go. So is the MKIII for me or the Tami?
Im unfamiliar with the Tami, except for the fact its WAY overpriced. I would opt to keep your money out of the hands of profiteers. In favor of what appears to be a more versatile system with room to expand once you get tuned and dialed.. the MKIII. With the money you save buying a Terpenator, you can fly to Portland and take a hands on Skunk Pharm class on MKIII operation. Ask all the questions you want. Then if you start running the Terp and have new questions come here and ask away. I dont know if you can get such training, live tech support and get such an awesome system for the price anywhere. The MKIII is was not made for profit. The mark up on it is like 300$ very little considering what it does. Its been put into production to give us little guys the chance to make our medicine safely and with cleanliness. The people behind the MKIII put love, sweat and good intentions into the machine, and you will know it when you get your hands on one. . . . read the entire Tamasium website all of it, scour the internet for reviews. Then do the same with Skunk Pharm and the MKIII. Look at a picture of the tami next to a picture of the MKIII and ask yourself: which one is going to be your Oil refinery. I bet you will be taking home a shiny new MKIII..
Maybe a Tami owner can speak up for this machine. I am biased for obvious reasons. . .
Terpin It Up,
FE
Maybe a Tami owner can speak up for this machine. I am biased for obvious reasons. . .
Terpin It Up,
FE
mr. durden
Member
the tami and IIIa are two different products and are not comparable. i have both and the tami was a great system to learn on and great for small producers. the IIIa is geared towards production... we probably make about 150g a day. if you aren't going to be producing a lot of oil, stick with either a tami or the cheaper lil'terp. i just don't know if the terp is being made or if you'll need to source everything yourself.
i will be selling my tami here in the near future if you are interested.
mr. durden
Member
use a thermostat such as this... http://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE
wire the controller to a receptacle and use a power cord to power the ranco and recep
I have industrial grade silicone heaters from both of these manufacturers, read through their sites for awhile and you should have a better idea of your options.
http://briskheat.com/
http://www.omega.com/
You can dim the wattage with a simple wall light dimmer, but the temperature will rise if you don't keep an eye on it. A simple on/off thermostat will work, but a PID temperture controller provides the smoothest control. I'm using a plug and play PID temperature controller designed for Sous Vide cooking, but is good for most any situation as long as it's under 200F. http://www.dorkfood.com/dsv/specifications
If replacing a wall switch is a no brainer for you, I suggest wiring your own PID controller, solid state relay with heat sink, and a type K or PT100 thermocouple. All the parts are available through Amazon or ebay, about $50-75 total. Check out YouTube for PID controller instructions...
Is the Ranco ETC a simple on/off thermostat or PID temperature controller? The Dorkfood DSV and the Ranco DSV look similar, but seem to be different designs with the same case.
Skyhighler, how does this one look?
http://www.briskheat.com/p-289-hsta...-tape-with-adjustable-thermostat-control.aspx
Could you link me to the ones you have?
I am looking to heat a 1.5" x 24" column and keep it between 75-120 degrees F.
If I could buy something reasonably priced already wired with a controller I would rather do that. I need it to be either removable so I can swap it to the second column, or have it be priced where I could buy a 'heater' for each column.
http://www.briskheat.com/p-289-hsta...-tape-with-adjustable-thermostat-control.aspx
Could you link me to the ones you have?
I am looking to heat a 1.5" x 24" column and keep it between 75-120 degrees F.
If I could buy something reasonably priced already wired with a controller I would rather do that. I need it to be either removable so I can swap it to the second column, or have it be priced where I could buy a 'heater' for each column.
Here's what I have experience with so far
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5915060&postcount=4
I was so impressed with these I ordered 3" and 5" rounds to go with a DIY PID controller setup I've been waiting to test out.
Heat tape should work, 75-120F would be easy to maintain, but for the butane... you might end up having to wrap the whole tube without gaps to transfer enough energy. Heat tape is used a lot commercially, compare prices at Amazon and ebay.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5915060&postcount=4
I was so impressed with these I ordered 3" and 5" rounds to go with a DIY PID controller setup I've been waiting to test out.
Heat tape should work, 75-120F would be easy to maintain, but for the butane... you might end up having to wrap the whole tube without gaps to transfer enough energy. Heat tape is used a lot commercially, compare prices at Amazon and ebay.
