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Eagle20, 100% Effective? I think not...

PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
I completely submerged all plants to the base of the stem on DAY 1 of Bloom (9 Week strains) in a 5 Gallon bucket with Eagle20 at a rate of 3ml/Gallon. On Day 30, Lo and Behold, I see PM on a few little leaves on a couple of plants.


I applied at the proper rate, and 100% covered the plant in solution for 30+ seconds! Why was it not effective, I thought from what I read it was the cure all end all of PM. Had I known that it wouldn't be 100%, I would have focused my efforts on other methods!

Anyone else had PM return after proper eagle 20 application?
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
It takes a lot more than dunking your plants to rid yourself of PM.

If you’re plants are showing signs then your whole environment needs sterilized as well because spores are literally everywhere.
 

PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
MJ, yeah I know I have spores everywhere. From what everyone was saying about eagle 20, it did sound as one application of eagle 20 was all that it took. It's systemic so it doesn't matter if spores are blowing around all over.

So I just want to hear from anyone else who has used eagle20 as a only treatment and not had success?


Is 3ml not a good dilution rate? I was reading many people used 2ml/Gallon. And Dunking a plant is way better than just spraying so I thought I was doing everything right.
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
No one worth their salt uses E20 because it is POISON. So, there's that.

Like he said, if you want it gone, you have to clean the ENTIRE room. That even means taking apart fans, ducting, vents, A/C, dehumidifier, filters, lights...EVERYTHING.

Your statement is like saying the house is on fire, but I put it out in the kitchen, so I should be good to cook a meal. It just doesn't work that way.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You need to figure out what environmental factors allowed it to take hold in the first place and then make adjustments after SANITIZING the entire room.



dank.Frank
 

eric2028

Well-known member
Veteran
In the past I’ve used 7.5 mls/gallon in veg. It came back in bloom. It’s def not the answer for some forms of pm(mine in particular). Nothing but bandades for now until I can shutdown and sterilze and restart with clean cuts.
 

ChaosCatalunya

5.2 club is now 8.1 club...
Veteran
I had PM, but my rooms were fine, it was th local environment, Oak forest specifically, the Oak or something there was pumping out PM to the max, I had it on pure sativa plants on the baclony in full sun in a very exposed spot.. no ventilation or air movement problems.

Like the others say, Eagle20 is NASTY... people do not use it and some states will not allow the sale of weed that has had it used on the stock months before.

I cured my PM easily in the end, wash down with Peroxide, let ti dry, then spray with Bicarb... Try to remember to do another spray just in case, but it really does work. Standard recipe off the internet.
 

PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
Edit.. just found this thread that is an ongoing discussion of use and application of eagle20.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=161425&page=1



No one worth their salt uses E20 because it is POISON. So, there's that.

Like he said, if you want it gone, you have to clean the ENTIRE room. That even means taking apart fans, ducting, vents, A/C, dehumidifier, filters, lights...EVERYTHING.

Your statement is like saying the house is on fire, but I put it out in the kitchen, so I should be good to cook a meal. It just doesn't work that way.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You need to figure out what environmental factors allowed it to take hold in the first place and then make adjustments after SANITIZING the entire room.



dank.Frank

I actually know of some old school legends on here that use it, I think most would agree, that they are worth their salt. Thats why I went ahead and ordered it. Knowing that spores are in the millions in my house, I know that I can't remove every single one. I did try on the last run to use other methods - reducing lights off humidity,extreme defoliatiion and lollipopping , got 2 wall mount hurricane fans to move air, milk spray, hydrogen peroxide spray, every 7 days, high intensity light per plant. I kept it at bay but all those treatments really turned my plants to shit and stressed them out. Ive never taken in clones or cuttings, everything is from seed. I got PM this winter, while it is -30C deep freeze outside. So its not something that was carried in recently. I think it was the high humidity in my home during the night. I recirculate my exhaust air through my home, I have no way to cut holes into the walls and roof to exhaust outside. Altough I think the solution is for me to vent into the bathroom and use the bathroom exhaust to vent that outside.

All of this was very taxing on me as I have a disability, and its hard for me to walk for more than a couple hours. All of my hard work was turning to dust in front of my eyes. Thats why I decided after seeing some members on here use it, to use it responsibly with 9 Weeks time between application and harvest.

Whether or not eagle20 is the correct treatment practice, I wanted to have a conversation at this time with other users and sharing our experiences. This can only help to determine if another path will be chosen in the future.


In the past I’ve used 7.5 mls/gallon in veg. It came back in bloom. It’s def not the answer for some forms of pm(mine in particular). Nothing but bandades for now until I can shutdown and sterilze and restart with clean cuts.

Good to know that you used 7.5 ml per gallon and it came back still.
I find that it usually shows up in bloom around week 3/4. I will add that it is not full blown pm, and not as bad as previous, so maybe the eagle20 if not 100% removing it, is minimizing it.I did spot it on a few small leaves only. This could also just be that the humidity isn't as high during lights of as in the past. I think that is the common theme for me so far. I have now dunked all 16 Scotts OG plants in greencure to help bring them to harvest. at 1 TBSP / per gallon, it did brown my pistils unfortunately.

I had PM, but my rooms were fine, it was th local environment, Oak forest specifically, the Oak or something there was pumping out PM to the max, I had it on pure sativa plants on the baclony in full sun in a very exposed spot.. no ventilation or air movement problems.

Like the others say, Eagle20 is NASTY... people do not use it and some states will not allow the sale of weed that has had it used on the stock months before.

I cured my PM easily in the end, wash down with Peroxide, let ti dry, then spray with Bicarb... Try to remember to do another spray just in case, but it really does work. Standard recipe off the internet.

Yeah I did use peroxide and baking soda last run, then got greencure for the end of the run, it seemed to work a lot better than baking soda. The thing with all of these dunks and sprays is these 4 Foot dangly OGs are hard to turn upside down and dunk or carry into the bath tub and spray, I have many branches snap and bend and colas break off during the process and it does make the buds not nice looking or smelling. and with 16 per light X 3 lights thats 48 plants to dunk every week. Its a lot of lot of work. I liked the idea of dunking once when plants are smaller before bloom and then youre good.

There are different strains of pm, and I think mine just rears its head when humididy goes up during lights off, so I think that is my solution to work on.

Get some sulfur burners and ditch the poison. Burn in between runs and right before flower.

I was deciding between sulfur and eagle20 before I went this route. Reason is I have perpetual grow cycle, so every week new plants go into room. and the veg room has 10 cycles in various stages vegging (with Pm spores abound - not blooming but I know its on them).

so sulfur burning would not be effective I think.
 
Last edited:

Cabbby

Member
I use germicidal lights in the ducting and keep my AC fan running constantly. I organicly purify the air using these lights and prevent pm spores from ever existing in the room.

Fuck sprays.
 

Lapides

Rosin Junky and Certified Worm Wrangler
Veteran
JMS Stylet oil. Lower your humidity and get some stylet oil and be done with PM
 

Weird

3rd-Eye Jedi
Veteran
treating pm is one animal, preventing it another

plant health is key to prevention
 

Arthritis_sucks

The Dude
Veteran
Edit.. just found this thread that is an ongoing discussion of use and application of eagle20.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=161425&page=1





I actually know of some old school legends on here that use it, I think most would agree, that they are worth their salt. Thats why I went ahead and ordered it. Knowing that spores are in the millions in my house, I know that I can't remove every single one. I did try on the last run to use other methods - reducing lights off humidity,extreme defoliatiion and lollipopping , got 2 wall mount hurricane fans to move air, milk spray, hydrogen peroxide spray, every 7 days, high intensity light per plant. I kept it at bay but all those treatments really turned my plants to shit and stressed them out. Ive never taken in clones or cuttings, everything is from seed. I got PM this winter, while it is -30C deep freeze outside. So its not something that was carried in recently. I think it was the high humidity in my home during the night. I recirculate my exhaust air through my home, I have no way to cut holes into the walls and roof to exhaust outside. Altough I think the solution is for me to vent into the bathroom and use the bathroom exhaust to vent that outside.

All of this was very taxing on me as I have a disability, and its hard for me to walk for more than a couple hours. All of my hard work was turning to dust in front of my eyes. Thats why I decided after seeing some members on here use it, to use it responsibly with 9 Weeks time between application and harvest.

Whether or not eagle20 is the correct treatment practice, I wanted to have a conversation at this time with other users and sharing our experiences. This can only help to determine if another path will be chosen in the future.




Good to know that you used 7.5 ml per gallon and it came back still.
I find that it usually shows up in bloom around week 3/4. I will add that it is not full blown pm, and not as bad as previous, so maybe the eagle20 if not 100% removing it, is minimizing it.I did spot it on a few small leaves only. This could also just be that the humidity isn't as high during lights of as in the past. I think that is the common theme for me so far. I have now dunked all 16 Scotts OG plants in greencure to help bring them to harvest. at 1 TBSP / per gallon, it did brown my pistils unfortunately.



Yeah I did use peroxide and baking soda last run, then got greencure for the end of the run, it seemed to work a lot better than baking soda. The thing with all of these dunks and sprays is these 4 Foot dangly OGs are hard to turn upside down and dunk or carry into the bath tub and spray, I have many branches snap and bend and colas break off during the process and it does make the buds not nice looking or smelling. and with 16 per light X 3 lights thats 48 plants to dunk every week. Its a lot of lot of work. I liked the idea of dunking once when plants are smaller before bloom and then youre good.

There are different strains of pm, and I think mine just rears its head when humididy goes up during lights off, so I think that is my solution to work on.



I was deciding between sulfur and eagle20 before I went this route. Reason is I have perpetual grow cycle, so every week new plants go into room. and the veg room has 10 cycles in various stages vegging (with Pm spores abound - not blooming but I know its on them).

so sulfur burning would not be effective I think.

Not legends if their recommendations are eagle20 :laughing:

Get the hint that members are trying to steer you away from it cause they know how bad it is an can’t in good conscience recommend using it at any rate. Hope you find a safer route :tiphat:
 

Medfinder

Chemon 91
Get some sulfur burners and ditch the poison. Burn in between runs and right before flower.

Good advise on above quote!

more info on eagle 20...

Myclobutanil

Myclobutanil is an active ingredient in the Eagle 20 pesticide brand, which prevents brown patch and dollar spot in established turf, ornamental plants, and certain fruits. This fungicide is considered “slightly hazardous” by the World Health Organization, due to its potential for nervous system problems and toxic fumes.

Exposure to Myclobutanil can result in symptoms like allergic dermatitis, vomiting, itchiness, nausea, headache, skin rash, nosebleed, and eye irritation. A two-generation study on rats found that Myclobutanil decreased pup weight gain, and increased incidence of stillborn.


This next one i have used years ago and had success with...


link..

https://sumogardener.com/potassium-bicarbonate-powdery-mildew/


How to Make Solutions Out Potassium Bicarbonate for Powdery Mildew

Are you wondering on how you can organically get rid of powdery mildew? Have you heard about using potassium bicarbonate for powdery mildew?
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
This is exactly why I don't smoke others cannabis unless I KNOW, KNOW, KNOW them.

Hacks out there spraying crap down with ornamental poisons. Collectively, science has very little understanding of how even safe levels of "non-toxic" "organic approved" pesticides react when burned and turned to vapor and enter the tissues in the lungs...

Spraying a cannabis plant with anything at ALL is a huge risk!!!

Every issue can be prevented through environmental controls and layering your defenses against contamination by following pharmaceutical clean room standards outlined in the code of federal regulations.



dank.Frank
 

Weird

3rd-Eye Jedi
Veteran
This is exactly why I don't smoke others cannabis unless I KNOW, KNOW, KNOW them.

Hacks out there spraying crap down with ornamental poisons. Collectively, science has very little understanding of how even safe levels of "non-toxic" "organic approved" pesticides react when burned and turned to vapor and enter the tissues in the lungs...

Spraying a cannabis plant with anything at ALL is a huge risk!!!

Every issue can be prevented through environmental controls and layering your defenses against contamination by following pharmaceutical clean room standards outlined in the code of federal regulations.



dank.Frank


I am amazed that 10 years later and many threads later where we are and the best part is the conversations where shallow compared to the scope of effects

what other microbiology that helps the plant prevent PM is destroyed by eagle20?

use of these fungicides can force production of fungicide resistant molds and mildews where in there are methods for which there is no adaptation so use only makes the problem in a long term scenario worse
 

Gry

Well-known member
Run a perpetual to supply myself. I found it on my plants a few years ago. Scrubbed and cleaned the grow area and installed hepa grade filtration. Used alternating sprays of [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]potassium bicarbonate and apple cider vinegar and that seemed to have worked for me.
Should I see it come back, I will try the milk.
[/FONT]
 

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