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Diy steel hoop house.
- Thread starter CrushnYuba
- Start date
Getting into some warmer days now. Hit 80 yesterday. The ridge vent is killing it. Greenhouse temps are pretty close to ambient temps in direct sunlight with no fans. There were concerns that the fine screen in the vent window would slow the airflow and cause warm air to collect somewhat, but the airflow is excellent.
Rivnut puller arrived today. Several places to use these. Starting off with eyebolts to fasten netting for flower season, Light hangars, and for door locks. The one in the pic is 1/4-20 but this can pull 3/8" and 7/16" threaded rivnuts. Using bolts with rivnuts instead of purlin clamps could save $$ in construction. You just need a drill guide to keep the holes straight.
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
I have never seen rivnuts before. Are they strong? I use bolts instead of perlin clamps if i am trying to save money. I use a few perlin clamps to line everything up and then i bolt it and take off the clamps.
There are a bunch of ways to get holes straight in tubes. The cheapest are these little jigs that u slap on pipe that hold the bit straight. Also using a tap is helpful.
U can get magnetic drills that are like little portable drill presses that u can use upside down and they just suck to the pipe. They are expensive though and not really worth getting unless u are building greenhouses all the time.
There are a bunch of ways to get holes straight in tubes. The cheapest are these little jigs that u slap on pipe that hold the bit straight. Also using a tap is helpful.
U can get magnetic drills that are like little portable drill presses that u can use upside down and they just suck to the pipe. They are expensive though and not really worth getting unless u are building greenhouses all the time.
One of the basic fork shape drill guides would work perfectly. Just so it's straight and the holes line up. As long as the hole for the rivet is the right size I think these are pretty strong. 37 bucks for the puller. Rivnuts are about 10 cents.
Im just putting in a bunch of eye bolts and don't want to drill all the way through the tubes.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rivnut+tool&crid=3A3BG48DCTUJ8&sprefix=rivet,aps,153&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6
Im just putting in a bunch of eye bolts and don't want to drill all the way through the tubes.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rivnut+tool&crid=3A3BG48DCTUJ8&sprefix=rivet,aps,153&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
They look pretty cool. I think I'm going to get one. I like them eye bolts. I don't fully understand how they work. I need to get one to play with. I usually just use course thread eye bolts if i don't want to drill all the way through.
The nut screws over the stud 1/4-20 and that goes through a pilot/guide hole. The lever squishes the knurled part of the nut without any threads into a donut or washer shape then the installation bolt/tool is unscrewed. Looks cool. Isn't necessary to access the other side for installing a lock nut, it won't loosen over time no welding or holding the nut while tightening the bolt.
I just picked up a new 3/8 drill bit to go with the 1/4-20 rivnuts.
It's a winner. First try and it came out great. Super tight.
The rivet threads are a little sloppy, but locking the eye in place with the nut will do the trick.
Nice clean look when its done too. I'll bet you could bolt two tubes together with these. Maybe use a little blue or red thread lock.
Wish I had this when I was doing the ridge vent.
Its easy to do.
The drill bit has to be just big enough for the rivet to fit in the hole.
Drill the hole in the tube and screw a new rivet on to the puller with the arms all the way open.
Put the rivnut in the hole and close the arms.
The puller plus the rivnut so it crimps on the backside (inside) of the tube.
Unscrew the puller from the rivnut with the nob between the arms.
Done. It takes more time to drill the hole than pulling the rivnut.
I got the 37 buck puller for two reasons.
It was 12 bucks cheaper.
The replacement mandrels are easy to identify because they come in color coded boxes.
I got a spare 1/4" mandrel.
This one.
14”Rivet Nut Tool, Meterk Professional Hand Rod Rivet Gun Setter Kit with 7Metric & SAE Mandrels and 35pcs Rivnuts, Labor-Saving Design, Rugged Carrying Case
It's a winner. First try and it came out great. Super tight.
The rivet threads are a little sloppy, but locking the eye in place with the nut will do the trick.
Nice clean look when its done too. I'll bet you could bolt two tubes together with these. Maybe use a little blue or red thread lock.
Wish I had this when I was doing the ridge vent.
Its easy to do.
The drill bit has to be just big enough for the rivet to fit in the hole.
Drill the hole in the tube and screw a new rivet on to the puller with the arms all the way open.
Put the rivnut in the hole and close the arms.
The puller plus the rivnut so it crimps on the backside (inside) of the tube.
Unscrew the puller from the rivnut with the nob between the arms.
Done. It takes more time to drill the hole than pulling the rivnut.
I got the 37 buck puller for two reasons.
It was 12 bucks cheaper.
The replacement mandrels are easy to identify because they come in color coded boxes.
I got a spare 1/4" mandrel.
This one.
14”Rivet Nut Tool, Meterk Professional Hand Rod Rivet Gun Setter Kit with 7Metric & SAE Mandrels and 35pcs Rivnuts, Labor-Saving Design, Rugged Carrying Case
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
I like it. In putting it on my list of shit to get.
Get yourself a spring loaded center punch off Amazon for like 8$. and a few good cobalt bits.
Mark your spot with the punch so the bit doesn't walk when you are trying to drill. Drill a pilot hole with a tiny bit. Then go through it again with whatever size u want the hole to be.
Your holes will be perfect and they will be FAST.
Get yourself a spring loaded center punch off Amazon for like 8$. and a few good cobalt bits.
Mark your spot with the punch so the bit doesn't walk when you are trying to drill. Drill a pilot hole with a tiny bit. Then go through it again with whatever size u want the hole to be.
Your holes will be perfect and they will be FAST.
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
So.. I'm using a swamp cooler in a veg greenhouse to dry my weed. Because it is so dry and hot here, it's able to keep 50%rh and 70f.
The swamp cooler was an old POS that was sitting at my neighbors for years. I just used the frame and replaced everything else internal. Pads, pump, float, water distribution tubing.
I put some pvc hoops over the greenhouse so there is an air gap between the layers of plastic. Way better insulation
No need to automate it.. I only black it out once a year. It will stay blacked out until my veg for next year starts around jan or feb
The swamp cooler was an old POS that was sitting at my neighbors for years. I just used the frame and replaced everything else internal. Pads, pump, float, water distribution tubing.
I put some pvc hoops over the greenhouse so there is an air gap between the layers of plastic. Way better insulation
No need to automate it.. I only black it out once a year. It will stay blacked out until my veg for next year starts around jan or feb
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
I figured i would share these heaters with you. They run of diesel or kerosene. They are VENTED. Super cheap. About 120$ a heater. For small greenhouses they are great. The one in the picture is just ghetto rigged temporally so i can dry weed in this greenhouse. It's set up to bring in cold moist outside air and heat it instead of recirculating. Normaly i would just have it recirculating. It has an intake and exhaust pipe at the bottom like any other furnace. They are meant to heat RVs and stuff. I know people using them to heat cabins and small houses.
They are dc 12v or 24v. Extremely efficient. Can easily be run off a small solar panel and 12v battery. The blower in it is great. Not sure on cfm but for the energy it uses its amazing. Only 3" duct but it seems to move as much air as a 4" inline. Can push through some pretty long duct runs without any loss.
Extremely efficient on diesel.
I think they put out about 20,000btu.
Where to you buy one of these sweet heaters Yuba?
I can't seem to find what you have pictured.
Thanks
I can't seem to find what you have pictured.
Thanks
funkyhorse
Well-known member
Thank you for this thread
At this part of the world, a beautiful steel hoop greenhouse of about the same size of the first post would cost 3500u$s and this is luxury only large vegetable producers can afford
Here the only kind of plants that will grow well are sativas, and the only way to finnish them here is light dep.
A greenhouse for home using the cheapest material around here is eucaliptus wood and this is the kind of construction which is common at this part of the world and by far, the cheapest available, bases have been fixed with concrete so it will be strong to stand against tough winds
The materials used for 3 walls is transparent nylon 150 microns, white shadow mesh for the roof and for this wall a triple folded shadow mesh. The white shadow mesh allows ventilation and allows me to make rain inside to cool the greenhouse when too hot. It is very windy here, it is an area of eolic energy generators so I feel to have enough ventilation just with the mesh in the roof
This is the triple folded shadow mesh wall, on top the wire to hang the light dep nylon
I am really interested in light dep
Nobody ever heard of light dep here, people think I am crazy and maybe they are right
Master CrushnYuba, I think I am using the same nylon I see on your last post. The one I am using is 150 micron and I use it as curtain which I pull up and down with a simple rope and a sheave
What I have seen in videos and pictures seems to be very heavy, like 30-50 kilos to pull on the light dep nylon cover
To pull up and down a wall of the nylon is very light and simple to do, I thought I would have to divide the light dep wall curtain in 2 so it would be lighter, but I am surprised it is so light
I am discovering I have a very wide thermal amplitude. It goes at this time of the year 13-15C at dawn with 99% humidity up to 35C and about 45-40% humidity on the same day.
Thank you very much and have a nice day
At this part of the world, a beautiful steel hoop greenhouse of about the same size of the first post would cost 3500u$s and this is luxury only large vegetable producers can afford
Here the only kind of plants that will grow well are sativas, and the only way to finnish them here is light dep.
A greenhouse for home using the cheapest material around here is eucaliptus wood and this is the kind of construction which is common at this part of the world and by far, the cheapest available, bases have been fixed with concrete so it will be strong to stand against tough winds
The materials used for 3 walls is transparent nylon 150 microns, white shadow mesh for the roof and for this wall a triple folded shadow mesh. The white shadow mesh allows ventilation and allows me to make rain inside to cool the greenhouse when too hot. It is very windy here, it is an area of eolic energy generators so I feel to have enough ventilation just with the mesh in the roof
This is the triple folded shadow mesh wall, on top the wire to hang the light dep nylon
I am really interested in light dep
Nobody ever heard of light dep here, people think I am crazy and maybe they are right
Master CrushnYuba, I think I am using the same nylon I see on your last post. The one I am using is 150 micron and I use it as curtain which I pull up and down with a simple rope and a sheave
What I have seen in videos and pictures seems to be very heavy, like 30-50 kilos to pull on the light dep nylon cover
To pull up and down a wall of the nylon is very light and simple to do, I thought I would have to divide the light dep wall curtain in 2 so it would be lighter, but I am surprised it is so light
I am discovering I have a very wide thermal amplitude. It goes at this time of the year 13-15C at dawn with 99% humidity up to 35C and about 45-40% humidity on the same day.
Thank you very much and have a nice day
funkyhorse
Well-known member
This is the wire for the curtain, from the sides I wont be able to completely bring up but I still have plenty of light and is not noted
And today we just made the first side wall curtain and we finnish the next two days I think, hopefully tomorrow
And today we just made the first side wall curtain and we finnish the next two days I think, hopefully tomorrow
