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Cure for Powdery mildew in flowering?

Red Fang

Active member
Veteran
I have some clones that just went into flowering with powdery mildew. Actually those particular ones I am not sure whether they have begun the flower cycle as I put them all in the same room to transplant them. What can be done, perferably organically, to kill powdery mildew without killing plants which is not an option at this point? Will Serenade work? How about H2o2? Anything else?
thanks in advance!
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Organically you might be battling this til the end. But I'd go get 1 or more of:
Greencure (great but will burn pistils)
Neem oil (and karanja if you can get it - mix 1/2 oz /gal each) (i'd be careful if going w sulfur)
Ed's Zero Tolereance Fungicide (i'd be careful if going w sulfur)
PM Wash (makers of might wash)
And yes, serenade.

And perhaps best of all, if you can handle a lil rotten eggs go sulfur burner.

Just beware that sulfur and oils don't mix. Not sure if the burner will be same as sulfur sprays.

Plan on this NOT going away. Need to break cycle, which is hard. That sulfur burner does good job at killing spore everywhere. I might get one if I get it again next run. Wife's gonna be pissed:)
 
F

Fred el Gato

You can use water at a higher ph(8-9) but the issue is your ventilation and rh
 

Neo 420

Active member
Veteran
You can use water at a higher ph(8-9) but the issue is your ventilation and rh


How do you know that? It could be a case of plants that are not healthy enough to fight off the PM because PM is basically everywhere.... (except radical climate locations)

BTW
OP
What is your RH and temps?
 
F

Fred el Gato

Had issues with PM in my room esspecially in one corner. Tried GC, burnt the F out of everything. Used the high ph'd water to knock it down. Threw RH out of whack 30 to 50% differences between day/nite. More air circulation and getting RH consistant, no more PM. Room isn't perfect so I know spores are there they just can't get a hold if good air flow and consistant RH.
 

Neo 420

Active member
Veteran
Had issues with PM in my room esspecially in one corner. Tried GC, burnt the F out of everything. Used the high ph'd water to knock it down. Threw RH out of whack 30 to 50% differences between day/nite. More air circulation and getting RH consistant, no more PM. Room isn't perfect so I know spores are there they just can't get a hold if good air flow and consistant RH.

No doubt....
 

Red Fang

Active member
Veteran
Yeah that is the weird thing Fred, I had this before and then as well as now there are some plants affected and others that never get it. I have the problem in a 2 x 4 box, and I think the problems the other time the problem also started were in an inferior smaller box. It seems only the plants in the very back of the box where the air circulation is presumably the worst are there plants with pm. I have no idea what the temps and humidity were in the box before, but definitely more variable and overall higher than now. It is now maintaining upper 40's humidity and low to mid 70's temp. The larger flower area does not have any PM and also maintains the same temp and humidity.
I have Serenade and neem and gave them some of that today. My squash plants outside are covered in pm and are dying off... no huge deal since frost is almost here but why is this so much more prevalent than in the past?
 

sprinkl

Member
Veteran
^Pesticides or introduction of new resistant strains that cause the PM to evolve?

I sprayed full milk/water in a 1/1 ratio twice on my outdoor plant, so far it's kept it under control for almost 3 weeks now. It leaves a white residu which I guess is the calcium/proteins, where the mold can't grow. It doesn't wash off with rain. On places where this residu is absent there are some small patches of PM growing though.

I also got it on my 2 last indoor grows, while my previous far more newbier grows never got it. Quite the rage inducing pest..
 
S

s00thsayer

i had powdery mildew once and couldn't get rid of it in plants once they contracted it. i got it from a dispensary clone and it spread to one of my other plants. tried sulphur sprays, serenade, potassium bicarb, and made sure not to over water and had a fan to circulate air but still couldn't eliminate it entirely. eventually i caved and tossed the infected plants and clones, cleaned the grow area with clorox and haven't seen it since. i've heard eagle 20 will wipe it out but have never tried it and wouldn't spray it on a flowering plant.
 

RudeDog

Active member
Veteran
Hi mate....Been battling PM in my UK greenhouse. I used a 3 in 1 rose spray and then 10 days after sprayed with water/milk, been clear now for two weeks. Greenhouse smelt a bit strange for a week.

Plenty of air movement is essential.
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
I had PM after reducing my exhaust fan flow. The humidity built up. Now I run the fans full speed and only water when needed, and only 10% water per soil volume. I think PM likes humidity. That was 3 years ago and havnt had a problem since
 
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Red Fang

Active member
Veteran
cool thanks purpur rudedog and everyone! I tried the milk thing will see how that goes. Not sure it is PM but know what it looks like on the squash outside and the same whitish residue on leaves here. I don't think I completely got rid of it the other time but held it in check.
 

Marilicious

New member
powdery mildew

powdery mildew

Will a uv ozone generator sterilize a grow room after a cycle has been complete ?
Which is better to sterilize with uv or corona ?
 

Weird

3rd-Eye Jedi
Veteran
you need a higher level of UV for mold remediation than you do for odor remediation

the high levels needed to remediation can cause bodily harm or death

I suggest a combination of removing viable infected leaves and then treating with green cure

higher concentrations of green cure will burn pistils

you can use pyshan on the room after the plants are gone to sterilize it

i would not treat the plants with anything toxic

good luck
 

homero

Señor Member
Veteran
it' is a granmother method ... but the other winter I saved my bubblecheese crop cleaning/rubbing the diseased parts with a cloth dipped in milk :)
 
I'm not trying to hijack the thread but do you have to bring a powdery mildew spore into a proper environment for it to reproduce and spread or does it create itself if the temps and humidity are right for it? When I first started growing my environment sucked so bad, sometimes in the summer the walls would feel wet it was so humid but I never got PM. I've had everything else including cyclamen mites but never pm. Other people have told me eagle 20 is the tops as far as wiping out their pm problems, if it must be organic the safer fungicide works but spray as soon as the lights go out or the sulphur will burn you and ruin your day.
 

frankenstein2

Astronaut Status
Veteran
If the plants are just on their first day of flowering, I would and have used eagle-20. I had pm bad in an indoor grow. Used eagle-20 once at the beginning of flowering and BOOM!!! It was gone for good. It takes the eagle-20 60 days to leave the plant so if it's an 8 weeker just let it go a few more days. Dudes are prolly gonna freak out over what I said, saying not to use the eagle-20. It will still be in the pot..blah..blah..blah... If you use it once at the beginning of flower and spray your mother's you won't get it again. I highly doubt anyone's gonna get cancer from one application of eagle-20. Also filter the air that comes into the room. Wally world has green furnace filters that catch mold, spores, etc... get one of them for like $8 and cut a piece to fit your intake. I did everything I just described at more than one location and it got rid of the pm EVERY SINGLE TIME!!
 

al70

Active member
Veteran
How to Eliminate White Powdery Mildew
As I mentioned earlier, I recently had a battle with White Powdery Mildew. Rather, it might have been a battle if I noticed it later or waited to fix the problem. That’s the one good thing about WPM: in most cases when WPM is caught early, you can remove all traces of the mildew without harming your plants.
There are quite a few products and homemade concoctions people use to treat WPM. Among the effective treatments are:
  • Milk (1:9 ratio of milk to water)
  • Baking soda (2 tablespoons per gallon of water)
  • Neem Oil (4 teaspoons per gallon of water)
  • Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon per gallon of 35% H202)
  • Store bought fungicides (warning: not all of these are safe for your plants)
Rather than go into these methods, I’m going to give you the simple strategy I use that gets rid of White Powdery Mildew on the first try, every time! Here’s my trusted 3-Step White Powdery Mold cure:
  1. Remove White Powdery Mildew from leaves - Get some water (preferably pH’d to about 6.0) and some paper towels. Wet the paper towels and use them to gently wipe the mildew off the affected leaves whilst being careful not to jostle any leaves with spores on them. Using a wet cloth will ensure that more spores stick to the cloth instead of becoming airborne. Note: While it isn’t necessary to use paper towels, their disposability helps to curb the spread of spores from one leaf to another.
  2. Ensure plants have proper airflow and ventilation - Even if you have absolutely no airflow or ventilation in your grow room, having even two fans will drastically reduce your chances of encountering WPM while also benefitting your plants overall health. One fan should be oscillating if possible and should gently blow air over your plants. All the plants need is enough air to gently rustle their leaves. The second fan should be in your grow room pointing outward, pulling heat away from your plants (only needed if you have no ventilation). Having a fan pointing out of your grow room will force old air out of the room, and in turn, pull new air into the room. At this point, you’ll have new air coming in, being used and circulated, then kicked out. Keep in mind that two fans is a minimum.
  3. Treat plant with SM90 to kill spores prevent future growth - Mix 1 part SM90 to 5 parts water(I’ve found 7 parts water to be equally effective) in a clean sprayer/mister. Wait until just before your lights for off for the day and mist your (newly cleaned) plants. Get all the leaves! This diluted SM90 mixed will kill any spores it touches, and anywhere it lands becomes uninhabitable for future spores. Plus, it’s safe to use - even during flowering - and it smells awesome.
 
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