Can DWC be successful at 80 res temp

Hey all been doing some research on attempting a DWC grow and have a question being that I live in a place where heat is an issue. Can I be successful growing in DWC and keeping res Temps at 80 degree? If so how or what additives should I include to protect against root rot

Are you planning on a live res? if so, mycorrhizal fungi such as Great White or VAM-Endo mix and Silica such as Silica Blast.. when using silica with mycorrhizal fungi you should add the silica first, then PH, then add the rest of your stuff. Silica holds a high PH that will kill a part of the myco herd if you add the myco's first then the silica.

Then Id start having fun with ameno acids, Fulvic/Humic acid, enzymes and all the other stuff that HELPS your plant break down its food so it doesnt have to work so damn hard to eat. The mycos and silica give you buffer room in less-than-optimal situations such as your 80* res and the mycos will eat the roots that die so they dont rot (which turns back into food for the plant). 21 ameno acids, Fulvic acid, humic acid, and enzymes are additives to help your plant eat and deliver the nutriants to the parts of the plant that needs it while not letting other parts of the plant be greedy... oh yea, they also prevent nute binding thus your plant will not waste so much nutes.. as far as im concerned, my learnings tell me I dont have to alt between water and feed every week/every other week, but rather keep your nutes at a lower, more reasonable does, do a one week water only flush in mid flower and the normal one at the end.. Also, both H202 and bleach KILLS your whole myco herd so beware if you contemplate using it. But I think you are supposed to kill them off with added H202 in your water week (mid flower) to prevent them from over colonizing and going ape shit on your plant in some way. That part I am the least sure of, but I have been studying the hell out of this stuff lately. I dont have the experience, but I verify research as much as I can. Unfortunately here you have some explanation in the goodie dept (additives) but not much science behind it so ive sourced everywhere from cannabis forums to agriculture articles. I am in the process of sourcing as much hutrients and additives as I can that are not 'hydro store' or 'cannabis' directed.. In the cannabis world they will shove anything down your throat, most cannafarmers dont know better whereas the Ag guys usually go to school for this shit and know what to look for in order to get results they want. Try looking for the products I told you about in Hydro store version, try canna, advanced nutrients, general hydroponics, or any other fancy hydro store name. theyall could give half a shit about whats in their products and dont care to promote you to buy whats right to keep your nute intake down, they rather feed you salt ferts without additives to make it harder for the plant to take it up and give the nutes a chance to bind together making them unusable not to mention shit like Great White, It has both ENDO Myco's and ECTO mycos when ECTO only collonize on WOOD type plants like Redwoods and Pine trees, while ECTO species prefer to colinize on the thinner stuff like flowers, ferns, and fruits, ect. They have some 21 names in their product and call it "Super Mega Hyped Up Phat Fleek Hella Wakka Flokka Flame Great White Shark Attack with 13 ADDITIVES THAT NEVER EXISTED TO MAN BEFORE WE FOUND THEM IN AN ANCIENT CATACOMB, ROTTING AWAY ROMAN FRUITS AND SEAWEED SKIMMED FROM ANCIENT ATLANTIS!!! ALSO WE ADDED THE 8 ADDITIVES EVERYONE ELSE USES TO GIVE YOU 21 SUPER CHARGED AND POWER PACKED ADDITIVES" all the while 2 of the additives they use takes over the whole root zone and fucks off the proper uptake which leaves you with deficiencies that shouldnt ever exist! Thats all exaggerated to prove a point, but you see what I mean, no?

see thats why I said to start with the Mycos and Silica, You really need to start with the buffer products and do all you can to help your plant not work so hard to eat and transpire. you adding carbs, amenos, mycos, silica, enzymes, and all the acids ive mentioned is basically a waterballoon body cast to help buffer all the trauma. It wont ensure you to have a healthy crop, but It will give you the best fighting chance you can have. If you try the KISS method you have no chance, it will be very disheartening to lose your crop. Granted your crop wont reflect the amount of work you put into it, but you have a chance to have a crop at all :/

Hygrozyme. With that being used 80 degree res temp is not a problem whatsoever.

Lester Beans said:

Hygrozyme. With that being used 80 degree res temp is not a problem whatsoever.

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But that price hurts anyone that isnt making the best of it. Carefree's Pond Protector is the same thing and a fraction of the price

With the kind of security it creates and the success I have had with hygrozyme, the price is not an issue when weighed against the peace of mind and 100% success rate.

Also it can be used at 6ml per gallon which is far less than stated on bottle so it goes quite a long ways.

Have you done any research on enzyme products? In my searches I have found that the difference between most bottles of enzymes is the concentration. In fact its said that other than one place in the states (I think it is carefree?) most enzymes are produced by a hand full of companies who then distribute it in batches world wide to smaller places, and so fourth. My under skilled and partially educated self merely offers direction to water, if you have your own fancy pants water it cool with me haha

doing hydro without the 100% perfect setup is really just a make work project.... probably not going to win friends on an internet forum saying this but DWC is also for closet growers to feel tech-y I have a ton of friends that have tried hydro with mixed success, Ie. the biggest yeilds I have ever seen, but also many lost crops.never seen a large DWC work EVER.

I'd start with a high draining soiless and automate the feed, then convert to drip or aero after you get some hands on and a res chiller at the least.

I'm not slagging hydro, but I am still in debt from trying to go all aero 3 years ago... and I don't care what anyone says no enzyme made will save roots that are submerged in water 24hrs a day even with amply bubbling at 80 deg....

Water temp at 80deg. Equal disaster period ! At that temp water can't retain enough o2 to sustain a fast grow or nice harvest i kept mine at 66~68 to max out
o2 contain vs water temp(water to cold below 60deg slow the grow rate even if more o2 is in the mix imho )
This Bud is for you Rykus

overbudjet said:

Water temp at 80deg. Equal disaster period ! At that temp water can't retain enough o2 to sustain a fast grow or nice harvest i kept mine at 66~68 to max out
o2 contain vs water temp(water to cold below 60deg slow the grow rate even if more o2 is in the mix imho )
This Bud is for you Rykus
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=52497&pictureid=1228041&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

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Thank you SIR, do you run a chiller or an AC? or any mycos or zymes? That pic is the cola porn that keeps me on the hydro track. Thats WITH glass Rykus, imagine tweaking the situation a little more to be glass-less or hood-less?

I use ss coil (same as the one i use with my mk3 )in my oxy-bucket
For bene i use greatwhite and subculture B room is cooled by 24kbtu a/c i also use co2 at 1100ppm .
Some bud porn to keep you on track

Looks good Overbudget! Wasn;t saying it could't be done, just saying at a piont (lets say 6-10 1000w) the price of equipment that will circulate the cold water and provide adequet air is going to become exponentialy more expensive than other hydro systems, and unless your up in the game soiless in drip is WAY safer, and often more productive over a year time.

Also seems conter productive trying to get water to be a good medium, and even with good AC plants grow slow if the room has to be rez temps. A good drip with res chiller/AC will cost less on any more than a few buckets.

overbudjet said:

I use ss coil (same as the one i use with my mk3 )in my oxy-bucket
For bene i use greatwhite and subculture B room is cooled by 24kbtu a/c i also use co2 at 1100ppm .
Some bud porn to keep you on track
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=52497&pictureid=1225278&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=12297&pictureid=471937&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

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Your full of shit. I caught one of your plants drinking red bull. Thats your secret.

overbudjet said:

I use ss coil (same as the one i use with my mk3 )in my oxy-bucket
For bene i use greatwhite and subculture B room is cooled by 24kbtu a/c i also use co2 at 1100ppm .
Some bud porn to keep you on track
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=52497&pictureid=1225278View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=12297&pictureid=471937View Image

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What strain is that sipping on the Red Bull...they look crazy good...Sativa what?? DJXX

White Widow

No!

Agree with what Dab posted as the 1st reply. You have to use silica to help prevent against disease and you have to use Great White to eat the bad bacteria. Also, you'll need twice as much air as you would for say a 70F res. Can't have too much air. For example, I can verify you can run a res at 78F with GW, Silica, and a 4-port air pump going into 2 airstones in a 15 gal res.

You can also lower your res temp by buying the car reflectors at Walmart, cutting them and taping them securely to the sides of your res. Lowered my temp by about 5 degrees! Don't fuck around with water bottles (you'll introduce more bad bacteria from your freezer, handling, etc and they only last like an hour).

PetFlora said:

80*s is playing Russian Roulette with your plants

My last grow (hot summer) I was having that same issue. Once I got rez temps ~ 70*s, plant growth improved significantly, better still ~ 60*s

I use a bubbler to start my plants, but once they get big enough I switch to my DIY Mini-Me F & D. It's a much safer method, and easier to work with

See my sig if interested.

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I do the same veg in bubblers and transplant to 5 gallon ebb n flo with 100% hydroton on a drip timer. Wouldnt change it for anything I have worked with. dwc, nft, soil, coco just nothing.

ChasingGreen said:

Agree with what Dab posted as the 1st reply. You have to use silica to help prevent against disease and you have to use Great White to eat the bad bacteria. Also, you'll need twice as much air as you would for say a 70F res. Can't have too much air. For example, I can verify you can run a res at 78F with GW, Silica, and a 4-port air pump going into 2 airstones in a 15 gal res.

You can also lower your res temp by buying the car reflectors at Walmart, cutting them and taping them securely to the sides of your res. Lowered my temp by about 5 degrees! Don't fuck around with water bottles (you'll introduce more bad bacteria from your freezer, handling, etc and they only last like an hour).

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i third this as well. i can't say enough about what silicates do for your plant.