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Old 07-13-2017, 08:56 PM #1
NoLoveDeepWeeb
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Boron deficiency? Overdose of some sort?

I recently flushed my plants because they had way too many nutrients in the soil, both of my plants took very well to the flush and started growing heath leafs again. I then added more FFOF to fill out the pots they were in. They seemed to still be growing once I added the extra soil, but after my first watering of a root drench, and a bacillus root inoculant one of my Lemon Diesel and Girl Scout Cookie hybrid started showing the same spots as before. I'm guessing that when I watered last the plant got too much of some nutrient from the soil and is now locked up again :-(. Any ideas what I'm dealing with here?

BTW the temp is right around 77-80° F most of the time, 43% RH, growing indoor.
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Old 07-15-2017, 01:38 AM #2
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Whats your water PH?
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:53 AM #3
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I put in balanced water but I won't have a soil PH meter until Tue
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:29 AM #4
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How often are you watering?
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:06 AM #5
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I read in your other post that you had fungus gnats earlier on.

I've had those, too, and it took a while for the plant to regrow the roots back that were damaged.

You have to understand that the life cycle of the fungus gnat means that while the fliers are dead and even a lot of the maggots during the first treatment, the eggs still hatch and immediately start eating the roots again in 3-4 days.

It takes repeat treatments to keep killing them offspring. I'd recommend a watering with 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 4 parts water to kill them for realz if your infestation was that bad.
It oxygenates the soil, too, which is good, but it also kills a lot of flora and beneficial microbes.
Don't worry though, you'll still see an immediate growth spurt. The mangled leaves you are seeing start at the roots directly affected.
Plants have veins that carry liquid up and they really are all mapped out to specific areas as they grow. As the grubs finish the fungus off, they go right to the roots.
If it were just a handful of leaves like what I had going on, I'd say sit back and let the plant regrow new roots and wait.

Since your case is obviously advanced, you should probably hit it with the nuclear option, in my humble opinion.

Flush with the peroxide water and you'll see new and healthy growth in a matter of days. The mangled stuff won't spring back, I'm afraid.

I have a handful of plants that are working their way back to vitality once again, but I've only done one treatment of Monterrey Bug Buster O to the cedar mulch soaking the top layer of soil and as a foliate spray. I will be hitting them again tomorrow evening after the sun goes down, too.
Ain't nobody got time for mooching fungus gnat babies all wrecking my plants' ability to take in nutes.

If you can't find Monterrey Bug Buster O, or the infestation is bad like yours was, nuke them dead with peroxide and water. 1:4, no more.

I am relatively new to growing cannabis but I have experience with fungus gnats. I inherited two giant and beautiful houseplants form someone in town and immediately began noticing little flies everywhere. Well, I found them around the pot of the jade tree and a lightbulb went off. I tapped the top of the soil and a bunch of flies came out!

I found the peroxide trick online, and it was being recommended for someone's cannabis. I figured if it was safe enough for cannabis, it was safe enough for the jade and the Norfolk Island pine I had growing.

I had tried sticky traps, no luck. Tried little bowls with vinegar and soap/water mixture -got a lot of flies but it didn't stop them.

Tried the peroxide and they've been gone ever since! One good watering of it and that was that. Eggs, maggots, larvae and flies gone.
I'm a believer in it for sure. All it took was letting the soil dry out a bit and then a feeding of guano/fish emulsion and both plants immediately started thriving.

It was so quick.

Cannabis is even stronger at recovery than these two, and during the vegetative stage it's all ramped up to grow as quickly as it can. Be glad this didn't happen while flowering!

With my outdoor crop of cannabis currently growing, I didn't have peroxide, and the closest hardware store didn't either. What they did have was Monterrey Bug Buster O so I tried it. So far, no flies, but repeat treatments are necessary.
Pyrethrum doesn't harm cannabis, and as long as you flush after their dead, they'll be fine.

Next time you get a grow going, set a sticky trap out right away and keep and eye out.
They're so much easier to kill with pyrethrum when the infestation isn't that bad.
The problem is that the poison has to make physical contact with the bugs to work.

If I were you, I'd do a foliate spray and the peroxide, or you will have to just toss the whole batch of plants. They won't yield much any way if they stay infested. They may not even live through their whole life cycle.

Good luck, dude. Hope some of this helps, from a noob to a noob.

Well, an old noob that has a few tricks up his sleeve.
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:13 AM #6
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The top of the medium looks pretty dry, letting it dry all the way can cause PH issues.

Since the issue corrected itself before we can assume that the proper amount of nutrients are available in the soil, the plant may be having a hard time uptaking specific nutrients due to PH issues.

I would check your Ph - Soil & water, and make sure you arent letting the medium dry completely.
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:15 AM #7
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Your nodes have propagated too close together and are flooding their system with hormones trying to gain apical dominance over one another. Cut back all the nodes for two inches beneath the apical shoot of the main branches and every other node below that point. Sometimes the nodes are right on top of each other at the tip and you will need to trim a few more a day after the first culling.
Once the hormone levels drop you will begin to get normal leaves and more vigorous growth and can initiate flowering, however try and get as much as that deformed growth removed before budding as it just leaks bad stuff...

I see this a lot and no one ever seems to recognize the issue. When clones stall and spend a long time under low light you see this frequently, the nodes stack instead of elongate and the resulting hormonal disarray leads to weak structure and limited growth and vigor.

No matter what the cause, the quickest cure is always in reducing the nodes to the point where the apical tip can assume control and correctly regulate normal growth patterns.

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Old 07-15-2017, 06:42 AM #8
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Mikell, I'm watering on average every third day. They have just been transplanted with lots of soil added. My other plant is doing just fine btw, different strand.

Scott64A, I appreciate your insight and info about your experience. I have another plant right next to the troubled one and it is not having any problem's. The one that's currently healthy was the one that had the larger gnat issue. I have some of that yellow sticky tape hanging and have not seen anymore gnats for a few weeks. So I don't think gnats are the problem right now but I will take the info you shared and apply it next time those buggers pop up. Thanks man.

Speed of green, I will be checking my PH lv as soon as I get my soil tester on Tue. The soil is currently good and moist. I'll make sure not to dry out my soil again thanks.

Prune, is the apical shoot the top node? Sorry I'm new to this but even with the help of google I can't quite figure it out. So I should cut off the lower weaker nodes that are incapable of getting enough sunlight to properly grow that way the branches that actually are positioned correctly can get the optimal nutrients without the hopeless ones utilizing resources?
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:00 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prune View Post
Your nodes have propagated too close together and are flooding their system with hormones trying to gain apical dominance over one another. Cut back all the nodes for two inches beneath the apical shoot of the main branches and every other node below that point. Sometimes the nodes are right on top of each other at the tip and you will need to trim a few more a day after the first culling.
Once the hormone levels drop you will begin to get normal leaves and more vigorous growth and can initiate flowering, however try and get as much as that deformed growth removed before budding as it just leaks bad stuff...

I see this a lot and no one ever seems to recognize the issue. When clones stall and spend a long time under low light you see this frequently, the nodes stack instead of elongate and the resulting hormonal disarray leads to weak structure and limited growth and vigor.

No matter what the cause, the quickest cure is always in reducing the nodes to the point where the apical tip can assume control and correctly regulate normal growth patterns.
Do you mean pruning off the lower growth? You explained it in a really round about way bro.
I wouldn't prune until some healthy growth appears. Despite the tight nodes those plants need to recover some beforehand in my opinion.
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Old 07-16-2017, 07:23 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoLoveDeepWeeb View Post
Mikell, I'm watering on average every third day. They have just been transplanted with lots of soil added. My other plant is doing just fine btw, different strand.

Scott64A, I appreciate your insight and info about your experience. I have another plant right next to the troubled one and it is not having any problem's. The one that's currently healthy was the one that had the larger gnat issue. I have some of that yellow sticky tape hanging and have not seen anymore gnats for a few weeks. So I don't think gnats are the problem right now but I will take the info you shared and apply it next time those buggers pop up. Thanks man.
Ah, glad to hear the gnats are gone for now.

I forgot to mention that drying the soil would require pH adjustment.

I don't have a lot of experience with clones, but I know with the ones I started, they're finicky and can be problematic.

I much prefer just starting seeds and training them. I want to try mainlining a plant some day! Seen some good results posted here using that technique. Like, 8-16 big colas on each plant.

I learned something about nodal spaces from prune here just now though. Thanks, prune. Good info.

pH is really important in soil; especially so in coco.

You have so many nodes you'd have to snip a couple of inches off.

I'd start with pH and give them a week. If that's the issue, you'll know pretty soon. Once they get the extra nutrition, they'll grow like... weeds.

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