- Users Thread - Hydrosol/Jacks Pro Hydro (and other copies) & Calcium Nitrate

xxxstr8edgexxx said:

you can foliar your regular feed right out the tank at 1/4 strength, itll add cal/nit along with everything else. but you could also combine cal/nit and mag at low concentrations to foliar and itll work great, i had someones yellow plants to take cutting from and i had to try to clone the sad yellow snips. i just dunked the leaves in the rez that feeds the flowering room every couple days to foliar feed them. they greened up within a couple days.,

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cannabacca said:

I have used Jacks 5 12 26 with calcium nitrate for about 1 year I was not real happy so I tried Plantprod 7 11 27 which I am satisfied with the Plantprod disolves much easier much faster than Jacks. The Plantprod mix as far as I can tell is exactly the same as Jacks same proportions of calcint/Plantprod. I noticed after I started to use Jacks 10 30 20 that the plant leaves gain quite a bit of definition when using 10 30 20 as opposed to straight Plantprod 7 11 27 or Jacks 5 12 26 . The leaves when using straight Jacks or Plantprod look flat and thin like they have been printed on a sheet of paper in a printer then cut out and hung on the plant. When adding 10 30 20 to the program the leaf veins look more pronounced and also show some ripple between veins. I now feed according to what the plants look like they want rather than sticking religiously to a preplanned feeding schedule. Krystal at Peters recommends alternating between 5 12 26 and 10 30 20 it seems to be the way to go to get healthier looking plants probably better yields. In my experience if you want to alternate between Plantprod/Jacks and Jacks 10 30 20 you get better results if you feed according to what the plants look like they want which includes some times feeding just plain water. It takes a while but eventually most people will be able to walk into a veg or flower room and notice right away what state the plants are in over fed under fed lacking mg or need more N ect. Also I think the recommendations by Peters of using 10 30 20 at 300 ppm nitrogen is so far off the charts it's nuts I tried that strength it's way to much build nute strength slowly and watch the reaction of the plants, at Peters recomended strength you will notice the leaves go real dark green super fast to dark green. Happy Grows !

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DeceiverZ said:

Thanks for the info! What E.C (or ppm) strength are you feeding at full strength?

Last run I switched from Dyna-Grow Foliage Pro (9-3-6) at 5 weeks to Jack's @ 700ppm (.5 scale) and burned everything to shit.

The Foliage Pro was running at 950ppm but things were still yellowing at 5 weeks so being a noob I switched out to Jacks+Cal Nit thinking it would get better. I think the salts left over from the FP combined with Jacks Hydro was what did it.

This time around I've kept the EC at 1.2 (600ppm) throughout flower and it feels like this might not be close to enough. The plants look starved and seeing Cal/Mag deficiencies as well. I've heard that growing in pure coco could be the culprit for the Cal/Mag issues but instead of using Epson Salts, I went with Botanicare CalMag at 100ppm to my RO water.

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xxxstr8edgexxx said:

do you check your run off? maybe your plants want more. are you absolutely certain your ppm meter is scaled to 500? if its not maybe you are calculating wrong. unless its a convertible meter. if so id abandon ppm and speak in terms of e.c on the threads unless your breaking down a multipart feed recipe.

i run 1.2 ec but then i have also seen plants that want a little more. and ive also seen plants want less. it also depends on ratio. so i mix the 3-2-1 (actually 3-1.8-1) and water it down to 1.2 strength. which comes out to about .75strength. i usually mix it a hair light and add dynagrow foliage pro to top off e.c. just because its easy to narrow in on ec with a good well balanced one part feed. 100 ecs of well balanced feed isnt gonna change the profile that much. its just a precision tool for ease of quick ec adjustments..
i figure its similar enough to be fine.

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xxxstr8edgexxx said:

dont have any clue why you burned your plants other than what you mentioned. sounds like you were running a high ec and it was just the timing of the switch that made it look as though it was the jacks. im gussing you were heading into to trouble with or with out the jacks. buildup of high feed.

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cannabacca said:

I alternate between Plantprod/Jacks and Jacks 10 30 20 depending on what the plants look like they need if they look like they need just plain water then they get just plain water. I might go 2 days Plantprod 2 days Jacks 10 30 20 then 1 or 2 days water it just depends what stage the plants are at. The Jacks 10 30 20 does make an obvious difference I wouldn't want to grow without it after bringing it into the program and trying it out but it works better if you use it for short intervals like 2 days in a row then 2 days 5 12 26 or 7 11 27 then 1 or 2 days water. If you use the 10 30 20 at say 650 - 700ppm for 4 consecutive days it will begin to slow things down a bit.

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cannabacca said:

DZee I honestly don't know why the 10 30 20 makes a noticeable difference in fact the nute eagles may not be able to quite figure it. Peters themselves recommended alternating but I found 4 straight days of 10 30 20 was to much so I cut it to 2 days 10 30 20 2 days 7 11 27 and usually 1 day water. I mix by ppm only using the 1 to .67 ratio, first the Plantprod/Jacks and all supplements then last calcium nitrate. I feed the plants some times more or less of one nute or the other depending on what the plants look like they want. In flower I note how fast the plants are drying out the soil and the colour of the leaves especially the new growth at the top. I do back off the N in flower by feeding say 1/4 strength nute, keep an eye on the hairs if they are turning red to early they are getting to much food most likely to much n. I use MOST once in a while just a tiny amount but if you have decent say 75+ ppm water you probably don't need MOST it can do as much harm as good.

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