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Old 06-28-2007, 04:26 PM #101
BurnOne
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Originally Posted by vhGhost
Burn One - What do you think of the MSM mix? good for beginners ?
I don't know what that is. But, if it's peat or coir based, just use it like peat in LC's mixes.
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:27 PM #102
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Perlite might not be organically or naturally derived...but there isn't anything about perlite that is going to take away from your organic environment that you are creating in the soil. The micro biology isn't going to be compramised one iota from useing perlite or from the water retaining crystals that promix has in it.
Totally Agree.
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:29 PM #103
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Originally Posted by thescientist
"prob already been said but I thought i should mention"
If you use pro mix you aren't full organic, it contains inorganic wetting agents. Im not saying it matters just wanted to point that out.
It has a very small synthetic nute charge and soap (wetting agent) in it that'll be gone after a watering or two.

Organic means "it once lived". Things like dolomite and perlite never lived but they are completely acceptable in organic farming. Perlite is inert and dolomite is a mined product that is natural.
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:08 PM #104
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I just wanted to point it out for the purists. In my view the best product comes from a combination of organic base nutes, and a few choice inorganic additives. But when I hear people selling buds as "organic grown in promix" I gotta laugh. I get damn close to full organic but I never try to sell it as organic.
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:57 PM #105
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Originally Posted by BurnOne
I don't know what that is. But, if it's peat or coir based, just use it like peat in LC's mixes.
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Moonshine Mix by Moonshine man. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=23970
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Old 06-29-2007, 12:30 AM #106
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Originally Posted by thescientist
But when I hear people selling buds as "organic grown in promix" I gotta laugh. I get damn close to full organic but I never try to sell it as organic.
There is nothing about promix that discourages microbiology in the media. There is nothing that promix has in it that inhibits the natural environment you are attempting to create by going organic. You can have a 100% organic grow using promix...bottom line.

Last edited by kokua; 06-29-2007 at 02:47 AM..
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Old 07-19-2007, 10:56 PM #107
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Thanks for the Info Burnone & others ...lots of help so for...
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Old 07-31-2007, 12:20 PM #108
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Cheers organic fanatics and all you mentors

I need your opinion on my situation. Currently Im gathering all the materials needed for a good soil mix.

So far I have:
Blood meal (N), rock phosphate (P), kelp meal (K), dolomit lime, Perlite and Mushroom compost (also wood ash, but some say thats bad...).

Im a little unsure what kind of spagnum to choose.

Whats available is swedish spagnum peat very similar to the Canadian flavour.

It comes in these kinds:
1) Unferted, "clean", low ph (~3.5-4.5) spagnum.
2) Ferted, low ph (~3.5-4.5) spagnum.
3) Ferted, mid ph (~6.2) spagnum.

I dont know the exact NPK values of the ferted one, but its probably mostly N and a little P and K.

Which one to choose and why?

I've been doing a lot of thinking, and I am willing to share my thoughts, but let me get your initial opinions first...

Two things I dont understand:
1) Why is recipe number 1 the same for both unferted Canadian Spagnum and ferted Pro Mix BX or HP / Sunshine Mixes? Wouldn't one end up with a more ferted mix if choosing ProMix/Sunshine or in my case ferted spagnum?
2) Why would one apply the same amount of dolomite lime to a spagnum mix thats pretty low in ph and to a Pro Mix / Sunshine Mix, thats ph'ed to around 6?

The two options Im leaning towards is:
1) 40% unferted spagnum (no Perlite, just clean spagnum), 40% Perlite, 20% Mushroom compost.
2) 50% ferted spagnum, 40% Perlite, 10% Mushroom compost.

What do you think? All inputs are more than welcome!

Cheers from Denmark

Last edited by jrw; 07-31-2007 at 12:32 PM..
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:03 AM #109
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jrw: I'm not an expert, but things I would keep in mind using your inventory: 1) blood meal is fast release and has a N value of about 12% by weight.
2) Rock phosphate is slow release and long term availability. (P=2%-4%)
3) Kelp meal is slow release and long term availability (1-0-2)
4)dolomite lime is short term availability (1-4 months) and will raise a low ph to 7, but won't lower a ph that's above 7.
5)wood ash will send your ph through the roof if you use too much, and then you're pretty much screwed. Could be dangerous. I've never used it.
6) often mushroom compost is high ph. (like ph 8)

What is the source of the ferts in the ferted spagnum? Osmocote time release salts or composted chicken manure/poultry litter or composted cow manure? Composted animal manure is sometimes blended by the manufacturer to a pretty even ratio, like 0.10%-0.10%-0.10% when used in commercial potting soil in the USA. Not sure about spagnum in Denmark.

I would make a 3-1-2 veg mix and a 1-3-2 flower mix to transplant into when combining the ferts you have to work with.

Be sure to mix your soil as far in advance as possible, so the long term ferts will become more available.

2 TBL/gal dolomite will handle either the 4 ph or 6 ph spagnum.

I've never used pro mix or sunshine mix, so don't want to guess wrong.

I think you have a good list of ingredients, and they should make a very nice mix. Good Luck!

EDIT: Often commercially prepared mushroom compost is heat treated before packaging. If that's the case (usually no way of knowing) then you won't have any mykes. No mykes in the unferted spagnum. May be mykes in the ferted spagnum if it contains composted manure that hasn't been sterilized to kill weed seeds. (Again, no way of knowing.)

The additions of a myke source will greatly aid in your grow if your mix doesn't contain any. It will accelerate availability of your ferts.

A scoop of undisturbed topsoil from a grassy cow pasture or a forest will add mykes. Commercial myke innoculant is easier, if available. Check expiration date if you decide to use it.

Last edited by judas cohen; 08-01-2007 at 08:32 AM..
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:00 PM #110
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Exellent reply judas cohen, thanks a lot my friend

I'll go for the unferted Spagnum so that Im sure what kind of ferts are in my mix:
40% Sphagnum
40% Perlite
20% Champost

I have two extra Qs based on your answer:

1) 3-1-2 veg mix, and 1-3-2 flower mix: Would that be TBSP pr gallon then? Or just the ratio? I'd rather give em too little than too much.
2) What is mykes? Cant find it in the dictionary...

Last edited by jrw; 08-01-2007 at 01:03 PM..
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