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Old 11-16-2013, 03:57 AM #21
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I got rid of mine by breaking apart and sprinkling 1/4 of a mosquito dunk around a 3 gallon pot. Took them out in 2 days.
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:28 AM #22
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^ interested in your method..

I was reading up on bti's.. it was saying the larvae eat it.. I wonder if there attracted to it in the first place.. like they put something in it to attract them.. and it seems you gave them a nice buffet for them then... haha. then I kinda also wonder, how the bti can reach the bottom of buckets for people who have sneaky ones.. as it wouldn't seem it couldn't get to the bottom if it is resting on the top surface???

also it was saying, don't apply to water that has copper ( nutes might have trace amount? ) and chlorine.. so anyone knows for future

also wonder if it does anything in way to off balance other bacteria in the media???
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:43 PM #23
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Originally Posted by habeeb View Post
^ interested in your method..

I was reading up on bti's.. it was saying the larvae eat it.. I wonder if there attracted to it in the first place.. like they put something in it to attract them.. and it seems you gave them a nice buffet for them then... haha. then I kinda also wonder, how the bti can reach the bottom of buckets for people who have sneaky ones.. as it wouldn't seem it couldn't get to the bottom if it is resting on the top surface???

also it was saying, don't apply to water that has copper ( nutes might have trace amount? ) and chlorine.. so anyone knows for future

also wonder if it does anything in way to off balance other bacteria in the media???
Hi Habeeb,
The BTI will multiply once in the soil/ coco.
You add it with you waterings and then it spreads throughout the pot by multiplying so it gets to the bottom no problem.

regarding the copper... Not sure about this, never heard anything that this would pose a problem.
But I used chem nutes from a rez, and I'm sure there a re ztraces of copper in there along with the mangan, boron etc...

I don't really know if the put anything in there to actually attract mosquitos to be honest ( would make sense eh ?)... but the fungus gnats were completely wiped out within a couple days. The flyers stuck to sticky traps and no new ones coming after them.
To prevent possible future infestations, I sealed my air inlets with a screen and put a layer of perlite on top of my pots.

all the best, take care,

cc
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:11 PM #24
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While all of my coir experience is with large scale organic greenhouse tomato production, the solution I use should be the same for anyone growing on coir(or any medium for that matter) that has fungus gnat problems. The predatory mite Stratiolaelaps scimitus Womersley (formerly Hypoaspis) has provided me with excellent control for very low cost.
I apply them in the first week after transplant and never worry about fungus gnats for the entire crop. There is also the Rove beetle (Dalotia coriaria) or Atheta coriaria which also targets shore flies and works better in areas that have more standing water/algae.
I have had very good results using them with an NFT system.
Both of these are readily available and fairly low cost, chemical free solutions.
If anyone wants more info on either of them, feel free to send me a message.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:02 PM #25
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Old thread but is BTI safe, and will it pass state tests?
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:06 PM #26
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Yes and I don't know.
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:58 AM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy cHaze View Post
You can look for products containing bacillus thuringiensis israelensis like Neudomueck f.ex.
They sell those products to keep ponds and stuff mosquito-free and it works with those gnats as well.
The larvae of the gnats in the coco/soil eat it and then it dissolves their digestive system.
then get the adult flies with yellow stickies and break the cycle with a perlite top layer.that worked for me perfectly.

sounds really harsh, but it does the job efficiently and it's not affecting the buds, so you can use it even during last weeks of flower.

Mine were all gone after a couple days.

good luck &take care

cc
That's what I do and it works great.
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:32 PM #28
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3T of 3% h2o2 per gallon got rid of them for me.
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:16 PM #29
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I encountered this problem, but it cleared up once I began using H+G roots excellorator. I've since switched to Great white with no problems or reinfestaion since. Try it your roots will thanks you for it.
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:41 PM #30
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It's slightly remarkable that the cheapest, most available (and highly effective) methods don't seem to get much play in these pest threads:

A simple hot water bath will kill most plant pests, without affecting your plants....provided the plants are small enough to get completely submerged. The two methods I see prescribed most are a 110 degree bath for 20 minutes, or 120 degrees for 5 minutes.

Similarly PURE, NON-DETERGENT (this is an important distinction, don't ignore) dish soap and vegetable oil has been proven extremely effective at killing all soft-bodied insects, and can be used as a dunk/bath, or a spray. 5 tablespoons of PURE, NON-DETERGENT dish soap, and 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil will give you a 2% insectidal soap mix. If that proves too hot for your plants/lights, then cut it in half for a 1% solution, which is less effective but gentler on your plants. Dunk containers in soapy water for a couple minutes to treat roots/medium and flush well until there's no more soapy residue coming from the runoff.
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