What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

A few questions about my first grow...

BlackMagic66

New member
Sup IC, currently in the process of building and outfitting my first indoor grow room, and I had a few minor things I wanted to try to clear up if anyone wouldn't mind lending a hand...:huggg:



1- Will using Bacteriostat in my humidifier harm benificial leaf microbes from my foliar compost feeding? (My humidifier is in a psudo-lung-room, and the tent intake is pulled via ducting from this room.)


2- How low can I turn my fan when trying to increase the temp and humidity in the tent and still not suffocate the girls? My exhaust is overkill right now, but does lowering the fan voltage to 60v actually cut the CFM in half?



3- Is 6 5-gal pots with 3.5 gal fabric inserts going to be big enough for an amended organic soil run? Much of my gear and nutes were donated, and I have a bottom feed recirculating smartpot system that was given to me, but for the first few runs I am just going to use soil, but was worried about the bucket size.

(For the first run I am going to use 60% roots-O original soil 20% perlite 20% coco)


4- When I sanitize the tent/buckets/rez/pumps/tube etc for the first time, is bleach still OK to use, or is sourcing 30% peroxide really a necessity?


5- Someone game me a bottle of something called Humbolt Honey ES. Should I use this instead of molasses when brewing my compost teas, or should I add it to my feedings after I have feed with a compost tea?



Well, hopefully that isn't to much for now.. thanks in advance for anyone that answers. Also, where is a good place to journal my grows at?:smoker:
 

Terpmouth

New member
R u gonna run RO water or tap? I recommend using drip and feed system if u want to make things easy. U should get air intake fan at top of tent to create negative pressure to keep new air coming in and also regulate temperature. Also I recommend og bio war root pack and foliar pack to ward off many pests, bacteria, and fungi. Also spray the foliar right before lights off do not leave light on misted plant can burn it. How do u plan on training the plants? Topping once and using LST and a bit of lollippoing is good in most cases. Some strains are more stressed when topped but others dont care; some need to be topped to make a bushy plant that will yield, others grow naturally bushy.
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Sup IC, currently in the process of building and outfitting my first indoor grow room, and I had a few minor things I wanted to try to clear up if anyone wouldn't mind lending a hand...:huggg:



1- Will using Bacteriostat in my humidifier harm benificial leaf microbes from my foliar compost feeding? (My humidifier is in a psudo-lung-room, and the tent intake is pulled via ducting from this room.)
I can't answer this question

2- How low can I turn my fan when trying to increase the temp and humidity in the tent and still not suffocate the girls? My exhaust is overkill right now, but does lowering the fan voltage to 60v actually cut the CFM in half?
You can get a fan speed controller that will adjust the exhaust fans extraction rate. You would need a transformer to cut the voltage or you can use resistor style speed controller. I recommend the speed controller, they're cheap.


3- Is 6 5-gal pots with 3.5 gal fabric inserts going to be big enough for an amended organic soil run? Much of my gear and nutes were donated, and I have a bottom feed recirculating smartpot system that was given to me, but for the first few runs I am just going to use soil, but was worried about the bucket size.

(For the first run I am going to use 60% roots-O original soil 20% perlite 20% coco)
There are folks here that are skilled enough to pull a harvest from beer cups and yogurt cups (the little ones). You can use whatever size container you like.

4- When I sanitize the tent/buckets/rez/pumps/tube etc for the first time, is bleach still OK to use, or is sourcing 30% peroxide really a necessity?
Bleach will work fine

5- Someone game me a bottle of something called Humbolt Honey ES. Should I use this instead of molasses when brewing my compost teas, or should I add it to my feedings after I have feed with a compost tea?
It's just another carbohydrate product used for feeding the microlife in the soil and your teas. Use it as you see fit. When it's gone don't bother replacing it. Molasses works just fine if not better and costs far less/oz.

Well, hopefully that isn't to much for now.. thanks in advance for anyone that answers. Also, where is a good place to journal my grows at?:smoker:


HEHE... How about here...


Best of luck with your grow.
 

BlackMagic66

New member
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2- How low can I turn my fan when trying to increase the temp and humidity in the tent and still not suffocate the girls? My exhaust is overkill right now, but does lowering the fan voltage to 60v actually cut the CFM in half?
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] You can get a fan speed controller that will adjust the exhaust fans extraction rate. You would need a transformer to cut the voltage or you can use resistor style speed controller. I recommend the speed controller, they're cheap.[/FONT]


Right now I have each fan connected to a Variac, so true voltage adjustment is no problem. I guess my main issue is, in my attempt to adjust temp/humidity via fan speed, at what point do I lower the circulation so low that it hinders the removal of O2 and replenishment of enough CO2.




[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]5- Someone game me a bottle of something called Humbolt Honey ES. Should I use this instead of molasses when brewing my compost teas, or should I add it to my feedings after I have feed with a compost tea?
It's just another carbohydrate product used for feeding the microlife in the soil and your teas. Use it as you see fit. When it's gone don't bother replacing it. Molasses works just fine if not better and costs far less/oz
[/FONT]


Thanks for the info. I just used Organic Unsulfured Blackstrap in my compost tea when I tested it out.... my houseplants loved it, so seems fine. I will probably just use the ES when watering to feed whats already in soil.
 

BlackMagic66

New member
R u gonna run RO water or tap? I recommend using drip and feed system if u want to make things easy.


Someone gave me a brand new bottom-feed recirculating hydro kit, so at present I am just going to use that.



U should get air intake fan at top of tent to create negative pressure to keep new air coming in and also regulate temperature.


Right now I have an air intake fan blowing into the bottom of the tent. I prefer the exhaust up top where the heat is.



Also I recommend og bio war root pack and foliar pack to ward off many pests, bacteria, and fungi. Also spray the foliar right before lights off do not leave light on misted plant can burn it.


Makes sense. I already do have one small pack each of the R/N/F Biowar.



How do u plan on training the plants? Topping once and using LST and a bit of lollippoing is good in most cases. Some strains are more stressed when topped but others dont care; some need to be topped to make a bushy plant that will yield, others grow naturally bushy


ATM I am in a 4x4 tent with 6 3.5 gal bags. I will probably just do a simple topping and then either use twist ties to LST, or maybe a very simple SCROG just to force them to spread out to the corners.
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Right now I have each fan connected to a Variac, so true voltage adjustment is no problem. I guess my main issue is, in my attempt to adjust temp/humidity via fan speed, at what point do I lower the circulation so low that it hinders the removal of O2 and replenishment of enough CO2.







Thanks for the info. I just used Organic Unsulfured Blackstrap in my compost tea when I tested it out.... my houseplants loved it, so seems fine. I will probably just use the ES when watering to feed whats already in soil.


A variac is a big ol variable resistor. It'll probably last a lot longer than one of those hydro store cheapies anyway.
I can't say at what point air extraction becomes an issue. Most recommend extracting about 4x the volume of the room every minute. You'll have to experiment to see what YOU like.


To clarify, circulation stirs up the air in the room while ventilation replaces the air in the room.
 

Sunshineinabag

Active member
R u gonna run RO water or tap? I recommend using drip and feed system if u want to make things easy. U should get air intake fan at top of tent to create negative pressure to keep new air coming in and also regulate temperature. Also I recommend og bio war root pack and foliar pack to ward off many pests, bacteria, and fungi. Also spray the foliar right before lights off do not leave light on misted plant can burn it. How do u plan on training the plants? Topping once and using LST and a bit of lollippoing is good in most cases. Some strains are more stressed when topped but others dont care; some need to be topped to make a bushy plant that will yield, others grow naturally bushy.

How come drip is superior to just hand watering? I'm just curious. I've always just put my containers (burlap) into buckets then add water to the bucket allowing the plant to uptake from the container, I do pour I'd say a liter of water into the top at the stalk base.....but I've found personally that having a vessel to hold the water is working great, I don't flower more than 6 plants at a time though. I'm not saying one is better than another, I've just not understood why drip is better, is it just for ease of use on large plots!? With high plant counts!? I find spraying foliarly with high and low ph water.....only letting that water stay in place for say 5 mins.....before the low ph comes from behind with spraying....big farms out west here use that method with good results! Anyway I'm rambling lmao my apologies!
 

BlackMagic66

New member
Always insight even in ramblings!!



For my situation, 70% of what I am using on this first run is second hand or donated, so while I could set up simple drip or hand water, I figured I might as well try to use what I have. I hope to have a grow journal up next week so I can throw up some pics...
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
How come drip is superior to just hand watering?
Completely depends on your setup and schedule. Checking to see all drippers are working takes a few minutes with many plants. Hand watering takes a minimum per plant. Drippers on a timer is more reliable than I am, regardless of my schedule. :)

So if you have a couple plants, hand watering is superior in saturation and flexibility. :)
 

coldcanna

Active member
Veteran
One thing to be careful with emitters on an auto-irrigation system is that when running organic bottled nutrients you will have clogging issues, as organic nutes typically have more "chunky" components than normal salts dissolved in water. That being said, I prefer the peace of mind of automation- all it takes is one missed watering and you could jack your whole harvest.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top