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DHF
Hey Bro......You can kickstart chlorophyll degradation while the shit`s still on the vine in late late bloomage , with increased airflow and increasing lights on temps to increase resin production , then dropping temps lights off as much progressively every day till as close to freezing as the plants can stand it.....IOW.....
It`s all strain dependent as to how "temp sensitive" each hybrid is and will react to extreme lights on/off differentials , as well as how much inherent anthocyanin is within said hybrid , genetics wise to color said plants up with the "fall colors" AS chlorophyll degradation occurs while the plants are still in the ground.....
Witnessed this many many yrs growing outside with the exact same strains/hybrids , but planting and over planting every couple weeks from day after Good Friday till the 4th of July to insure some type of harvest with the risk of deer , rabbit , and insect induced plant/patch death back in the day.....
The very same plants that finished mid October green as a gourd , finished through end of Nov-till late Dec turning every color from gold to red and purple , then almost black if they made it through the extra frost cycles without dying....anyways....
Works the same way inside as well , butchas gotta be on your game and know all your elements for dialed environment and watts per sq ft , as well as the hybrid you`re torturing.....
Peace...DHF....
....
Bobo Bolinsky
Member
I have done both, I dry on screens, and not directly under lites, and remove at earliest optimal dry, for me 4, usually 5 days. NEVER comes out bleached. I have seen no dif with top screen vs. shaded bottom screen. I gently turn at least 2-x day. Do I lose a bit of crystal vs. hanging? ya, but not much, done that too.- Keep an eye on how many trics fly off dried buds when you dry trim hung buds 
No room to hang now anyway. Just dried slow dark dry on racks. Not side by side exactly with lites on the same harvest, but I see little difference. There "may" be a bit of flavor boost in the slow (6 day) darker/cooler dry.
No room to hang now anyway. Just dried slow dark dry on racks. Not side by side exactly with lites on the same harvest, but I see little difference. There "may" be a bit of flavor boost in the slow (6 day) darker/cooler dry.
J
johndoe123
Damn bro ya got me thinking my cookies are bout 10 days from chop maybe i will lower that temp a bit cause you know i already got the watts per sqftHey Bro......You can kickstart chlorophyll degradation while the shit`s still on the vine in late late bloomage , with increased airflow and increasing lights on temps to increase resin production , then dropping temps lights off as much progressively every day till as close to freezing as the plants can stand it.....IOW.....
It`s all strain dependent as to how "temp sensitive" each hybrid is and will react to extreme lights on/off differentials , as well as how much inherent anthocyanin is within said hybrid , genetics wise to color said plants up with the "fall colors" AS chlorophyll degradation occurs while the plants are still in the ground.....
Witnessed this many many yrs growing outside with the exact same strains/hybrids , but planting and over planting every couple weeks from day after Good Friday till the 4th of July to insure some type of harvest with the risk of deer , rabbit , and insect induced plant/patch death back in the day.....
The very same plants that finished mid October green as a gourd , finished through end of Nov-till late Dec turning every color from gold to red and purple , then almost black if they made it through the extra frost cycles without dying....anyways....
Works the same way inside as well , butchas gotta be on your game and know all your elements for dialed environment and watts per sq ft , as well as the hybrid you`re torturing.....
Peace...DHF....
J
johndoe123
So it starts I don't have a base line being these are seed starts but when i went in i lowered the temp between 5-10 degrees. Start temp was 63*. God these are going to get beautiful.......
SmokinErb22
Member
I'm interested in this and would love to see someone who has the means (large enough yields, monocrop) to send in samples to be lab tested.
I dry in the light. No direct light, but I dry above my T5 fixture in the veg area. I've recently started doing this as it speeds my hang dry time by 2-3 days (5-7 days instead of 7-10) and I haven't really noticed a reduction in quality.
I used to hang dry inside cardboard boxes with a dozen or so 1 1/2" holes near the bottom and more near the top for a little air circulation. It was taking too long for the stems to snap and I didn't have a better solution than using the ~3ft of empty vertical space above my T5.
I dry in the light. No direct light, but I dry above my T5 fixture in the veg area. I've recently started doing this as it speeds my hang dry time by 2-3 days (5-7 days instead of 7-10) and I haven't really noticed a reduction in quality.
I used to hang dry inside cardboard boxes with a dozen or so 1 1/2" holes near the bottom and more near the top for a little air circulation. It was taking too long for the stems to snap and I didn't have a better solution than using the ~3ft of empty vertical space above my T5.
Very true.
Especially at altitude, e.g. 10,000 feet.
I would be willing to try some Himalayan weed (I mean Cannabis
) that has been processed both ways.At sea-level you get about 70 watts per square foot. Outside the atmosphere, about twice that.
So in the Himalayas, and at higher altitudes, in between.
I don't doubt that light degrades the cannabinoids that we enjoy, yet the plant does seem to resist it, or we wouldn't enjoy Cannabis from the Nepalese highlands.
Maybe this is the Sherpa's Secret !
Good Karma
Member
you got to remember aswell that even if you do dry in light, its olnly the outer surface which will be affected.. theres layers of resin throughout that wouldn't be penetrated. personally I still dry in darkness eitherway
B
BredForMeds
a lot of cali outdoor guerilla growers just hang to dry outside.. under tarps or plastic.. to keep water or rain off..
and most of the buds grown in the 70s and all the hash made from that bud.. was made by leaving the plants out to turn gold..
u have to remember... in hash producing countrys.. they only allowed the plants to go gold.. so you cant recogonize plant material from the hash.. lol.. atleast that's wat I was told from a farmer who came to the US from India..
they realized people paid more if there wasn't specs of green everywere.
and most of the buds grown in the 70s and all the hash made from that bud.. was made by leaving the plants out to turn gold..
u have to remember... in hash producing countrys.. they only allowed the plants to go gold.. so you cant recogonize plant material from the hash.. lol.. atleast that's wat I was told from a farmer who came to the US from India..
they realized people paid more if there wasn't specs of green everywere.
B
BredForMeds
Very true.
Especially at altitude, e.g. 10,000 feet.
I would be willing to try some Himalayan weed (I mean Cannabis
At sea-level you get about 70 watts per square foot. Outside the atmosphere, about twice that.
So in the Himalayas, and at higher altitudes, in between.
I don't doubt that light degrades the cannabinoids that we enjoy, yet the plant does seem to resist it, or we wouldn't enjoy Cannabis from the Nepalese highlands.
Maybe this is the Sherpa's Secret !
from my research. outdoor plants produce more waxes for this reason also.. they don't only produce resin to protect themselves.. atleast my outdoor bho run winterized lost a lot more weight./. then my indoor.. so im guessing its something along those lines.
Duly noted St3ve , and yes as the trichomes develop AND degrade in late bloomage , the "high" or rather "effect" is definitely influenced by "when" the plant`s taken and chopped , but....
I wonder what drying in light compared to the golden rule of a "slow dry and proper dark cure" produces comparatively across the board....
St3ve....Respect....and...
Peace...DHF.....
great info as always D, nice info in the changing of colors below.
CecilGreenLeaf
Member
Maybe this would be something to try with a slightly early chop? Harvest early and then ripen the resin as you dry under lights? Removing the chlorophyll at the same time?
S
sourpuss
Cecil u might b on to something. I find an early chop will give a full effect after a good lone cure at least 6 months. Full effect I mean it comes with the stoney couchlock where it had very little beforehand.
JointOperation
Active member
maybe u can see a difference if u do half and half.. from a harvest.. i have tried drying in my flower room.. and my buds dried way faster then i like.. and it took a week of curing to get that smell back to being as potent as it was before.. i think drying.. is all about speed.. im not sure if the light or dark actually does much unless its direct sunlight? or direct light from hps. or mh.
but what ive realized is.. slow dry = wayyy better smell and taste wayyy sooner then normal..
but what ive realized is.. slow dry = wayyy better smell and taste wayyy sooner then normal..
stickyuser
Member
So what is the verdict?
JointOperation says it here^^^^. in the previous post. I agree. someone else may disagree. slow is always harder the first grow or 3 or 4, until one calms down and keeps a stash that will last ... 'longer'; so that the right way isn't too fast or too slow and experience will light the tunnel instead of someone else's opinions.
JointOperation
Active member
does anyone know if degraded chlorophyll .. from say drying in the light.. would still be extracted during a bho extraction? maybe this could do good things if u put them very far away from a light.. just enough to degrade the chlorophyll but not enough to destroy the thc and other meds..
I wondered if degraded chlorophyll might be the reason . for cured material to be darker amber and old material to be that color?
does chlorophyll breaking down allow for butane to extract it into our extracts.. could this be the reason why THESE so called "LIVE" Extracts are allooooooott lighter in color?
we should really explore these things more in-depth.
I wondered if degraded chlorophyll might be the reason . for cured material to be darker amber and old material to be that color?
does chlorophyll breaking down allow for butane to extract it into our extracts.. could this be the reason why THESE so called "LIVE" Extracts are allooooooott lighter in color?
we should really explore these things more in-depth.
