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Fireproofing your grow area

G. Potter

Member
Many growers consider fire a major threat in their grow room and certainlly there is a risk with the temperatures emitted by MH/HPS lights, trasformers, extension cords, etc. I am a builder who builds 200-300 homes per year. I am a master electrician and master carpenter. In the building business there are a number of measures taken to avoid fire in a home and then to contain a fire should one break out. The information and methods regarding fireblocking in new homes can be helpful to the indoor grower as he also wants to prevent fire altogether, but control it if it does occur. Hopefully this info will help someone do that. I'm also sure that others have found measures that help them feel more secure so add anything you wish. These suggestions will be helpful but they are not all encompassing.

I divide this topic into 2 categories:

Preventing fire: This is where you need to put the majority of your efforts. First, any time you carry an object into your grow room you need to consider whether it will burn or not, and if it will, how quickly? Make a U-turn with flash burn items, they just shouldn't be in there. Paper. towels and rags. oil based paints, (use latex), Mylar, aerosol cans, flammable liquids, rope, thin flammable board like luan, and anything else that might be in your room that will burn easily should go. Keep them outside of the room.

The next step is to protect your electrical system. This is an area where growers need help.

1. Your grow room MUST be on an arc fault breaker. No exceptions. If you have a grow room and its not on an arc fault breaker your rolling the dice and this applies to experience growers or beginners. No good alternatives here, and no second opinions. No arc fault and you can burn. The arc fault breaker dissallows a short either in the in=wall wiring or in an appliance such as a ballast.
You can buy arc fault breakers at Lowes or any electrical supply. The cost about 40 bucks and install right into your panel box. They come with instructions and if your careful its easy to install.

2. Your grow room should be ground faulted. The cheapest way to achieve this is to buy a ground fault receptacle from Lowes or anywhere. About 15 bucks and easy to install. Once again, read the instructions. Ground fault recepticals will keep you from being electricuted as well as preventing the sytem from grounding to something that will burn with the current. If you have many lights, get the ground fault breaker that goes in your panel box and protects the entire circuit.

3. Load resistence breakers. If you try to pull more electric than a circuit can handle, and this can happen without you actively doing anything, it will slowly heat up and the more you do it the hotter the line becomes.
The cheapest way to avoid this is to go to Lowes and buy a "pig tail" with an over load breaker in it. This breaker will kick if you try to pull too much through it. They are designed to keep a tool from burning up such as a saw by running an extension cord too far. They cost about $20.

Finally, I installed a 20 minute fire rated door, (metal) entering my room.


The second category of protection is that of firestopping. This involves containing the fire to your grow room should one break out. You surely don't want to loose your home because of a mishap with the grow room and yes it has happened more than once.

Your should be able to prevent an open flame from spreading beyond your growroom for up to 20 minutes and the materials that constitute your room should all posses a 20 minute fire rating, What posseses this rating.

Drywall. Drywall can withstand an open flame against it for more than 20 minutes without detiorating.

Osb/ Playwood. This has a 20 minute rating as long as its 3/4 thick. 7/16 will have about 15 minute rating.

Your growroom should be constructed from or at least have the walls and cieling covered with one of these 2 materials. Luan or very thin plywood, cardboard, paneling are virtual kindling and should be avoided.

If your room is made of something flammable, you might consider going to the nearest lumber company and buy some valley tin or flashing. This is thin metal that comes in rolls 2' wide and 20-50' long. Attach it to whatever surface you are trying to protect and it will deter a fire for 20 minutes.

Finally, consider firestopping in this manner. Flame travels up. Home builders discoverd several years ago that many homes burned because fire that started at a receptacle inside the wall cavity traveled up, found an exit through the hole in the top plate where the electrical wire came through and then would set the second floor of the home on fire. Simply stopping up that hole in the top plate contained the fire to the wall cavity.

If you can look up in your growroom and see a hole as big around as a #2 pencil, whatever is above that hole is succeptable to catching on fire should something happen in your room. Go to lowes or your local hardware store and buy some "fire caulk" and fiil that hole. Its $10 per tube. Use it to fill any gap or hole in your room.

Finall, fire needs air. I suggest using louvered vent covers on exhaust vents and intakes so that if the electric kicks, the vents close and eliminate the avenue to air for the fire.

DON'T USE FANS WHEN YOUR NOT THERE!!! A fan blowing on a spark is a fire. Use your fans when you are at home and try to avoid them when your'e not.

DON'T USE A HEAT REGULATED THERMOSTAT FOR EXHAUST!!! God I've seen people buy a heat regulated thermo so that when the room reaches a certain temperature a fan kicks on and clears the heat out. BAD BAD BAD!! If a fire breaks out, the temps rise and your thermostat will kick on and sucks air for the fire and pulls it through the ventilation system. Learn how long it takes to for your room to heat up and put it on a timer, not a heat sensitve thermostat.

Finally, evertime you shut the door on your room, make it a habit to take one last look with the question: Is there anything that can catch on fire while I'm gone?

Well, I'm sure there are other things you can do and feel free to add on to this thread. Be safe

G. row Pot ter
 

ewegrow

New member
Excellent post. A must read before starting up, or for people like me who are re-evaluating their setup. (though I'm not sure how feasible it is to shut off fans when you're out of the house when you are running odor control and cooling lights...)

My friend has a 'surge protector' (sp?) that is supposed to stop the computer from 'blowing up' it receives a sudden boost of electricity (eg. lightning strikes). It's a small box that fits in between the computer wires and the outlet. Is this surge protector a type of load resistence breaker?

I was thinking of buying one of these as I have had a telephone literally explode in my house from a lightning strike and the same thing happened to my electric fencer that was plugged into an outlet in a barn. There was nothing left of this fencer after the strike.

These two events have made me reconsider all of the potential problems that could occur in my room.

Thanks for this informative post!

ewegrow
 
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monkeyman

Member
Great post! Any thoughts on building a sprinkler system into your grow room? Do you know a way to cut all power to a room in the event of a fire?
 

Maj.PotHead

End Cannibis Prohibition Now Realize Legalize !!
Mentor
Veteran
yes very good points made very good post should maybe be made a sticky, i agree 100% w/everything said including the fans ussage. but any indoor grower knows the importance of air circulation in the grow erea, it's really needed 24hrs a day 7days a week while the grow is in progress. it helps keep ambient temps down humidity down and helps young plants grow strong branches helps to keep mold from forming on buds i believe. but yes i acknowladge a fan is a fire hazzard it can be the fire or help spread 1

cant believe i missed this when it was 1st written
 
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marimbas

Member
Ooooooh yea fire is a big issue! normaly we dont give a dime about it. But you have to worry eh...

Belive me dieing because of a fire isnt cool at all. Or burning your home down is not a good idea... The main concern on my grow tent was fire risk...

So G.Potter Great Thread man!! im with ya
 

green_grow

Active member
Veteran
could you please explain no. 3 ...
a) how can we pull more current than the circuit can handle without actively doing anything, and,
b) what is a "pig-tail" ? (pic if possible)

i would like to keep this thread happening . i am a first time grower and no electrician, so i need to learn this stuff. i want/need my grow cab to be as safe as i can reasonably make it.
 

RuralRoute420

Active member
"You can buy arc fault breakers at Lowes or any electrical supply. The cost about 40 bucks and install right into your panel box. They come with instructions and if your careful its easy to install"

"The cheapest way to avoid this is to go to Lowes and buy a "pig tail" with an over load breaker in it."

so once you bought all this electrical stuff, you could take it wherever you went, just keep all the originals, right?
 
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I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Excellent advice G. Potter, thanks mucho for the information...

Excellent advice G. Potter, thanks mucho for the information...

:wave:
Some rich food for design consideration thought>>>>

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs)

Understanding the Problem of Arc Faults and House Fires
According to the Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC), approximately 40,000 fires are caused annually by problems with home electrical wiring.
For the last five years, electrical wiring systems have been one of the leading causes of fire deaths, claiming between 260 and 380 lives per year and costing more than $650 million annually.
In 1998, according to the latest statistics released by the CPSC, fire originating in the electrical distribution system accounted for more than 10 percent of all home fires.
Many times the culprit is an arc fault.

What is an Arc Fault?

An arc is a discharge of electric current across a gap.
Many of us have seen an arc such as from an arc welder or sparks from a downed power line.
An arc fault is an unintended arc flowing through an unintentional path.


Common causes for arc faults in a house are:

* Loose or improper connections, such as electrical wires to outlets or switches
* Frayed or ruptured appliance or extension cords
* Pinched or pierced wire insulation, such as a wire inside a wall nipped by a nail or screw or a chair leg setting on an extension cord
* Cracked wire insulation stemming from age, heat, corrosion or bending stress
* Overheated wire or cords
* Damaged electrical appliances
* Wires or cords touching vibrating metal
* Electrical wire insulation chewed by rodents

When an arc fault occurs inside the walls or ceiling, or inside an electrical appliance, temperatures can exceed 10,000° F. Nearby combustibles like wood studs or insulation can be ignited by an electrical arc.



Fortunately, companies have developed arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCI) to help avoid fires caused by arc faults. They look and work just like conventional circuit breakers and fit into electrical panels in the same way. But they provide additional protection against arc faults.

Conventional circuit breakers "trip" if an overload or short circuit is detected, which shuts off the electrical power. They protect against overloads and short circuits with thermal and magnetic protection, respectively.

AFCIs, however, not only protect against overloads and short circuits, they can also electronically sense arcing and "trip."
http://www.statefarm.com/consumer/vhouse/articles/afci.htm


Learn Not to burn.

SMOKE ALARMS...DETECTORS (fyi)

FIRE EXTINGUISHER: 101 (fyi)
 
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twilson

Member
I learned how to work with sheetrock when i was in carpentry. I can hang it and tape it.

My cabinet is made totally out of sheetrock. Real easy to cut and seal air tight compared to plywood and you can lay a red hot HPS bulb right against the wall for days on end and all it will do is get warm.
 

sugabear_II

Active member
Veteran
Great post, good info.

Another point about fans is that when buying one you should buy one with a thermal cutoff built in. Most Dayton's have this built in. Basically if the temps get too high then the fan shuts off.

Another thing you can use to stop a fire once it breaks out is an engine fire extinguisher made for boats. These are completely self contained, require no power, and leave no residue. If the temp gets too high (175F) they are triggered and put out any fire by starving it of o2. These are rated by cubic feet of space you are trying to protect. I know of at least one cabinet grower who has installed one of these. Here's a link.

http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/auto_only.htm

These would be as good as a sprinkler system without requiring plumbing and extensive mods to the house. When you move to a new grow you just bring it with you.
 

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Loving all these ideas...sheetrock construction of cabinets...

Another point about fans is that when buying one you should buy one with a thermal cutoff built in. Most Dayton's have this built in. Basically if the temps get too high then the fan shuts off.

Another thing you can use to stop a fire once it breaks out is an engine fire extinguisher made for boats. These are completely self contained, require no power, and leave no residue. If the temp gets too high (175F) they are triggered and put out any fire by starving it of o2. These are rated by cubic feet of space you are trying to protect. I know of at least one cabinet grower who has installed one of these.

From the fireboy... website-
The CG2 Series fire extinguishers (Marine safety systems) have an automatic heat-activated discharge at 175° F (79° C).

A control panel indicator lamp and pressure gauge provide "charge / discharge" system-status.
WARNING:
Diesel-powered craft must also install the Automatic Engine Shutdown System.

* USCG and FM approved.
* Actuation temperature: 175° F (79° C)
* Models protecting enclosures from 25 cubic feet (.71 cubic meters) through 600 cubic feet (17 cubic meters) may be installed vertically or horizontally.
* Models protecting 650 cubic feet (18.4 cubic meters) through 1000 cubic feet (28.3 cubic meters) may be installed vertically or tipped to 60° off horizontal (30° off perpendicular).
 
G

Guest

man this is an awsome thread big ups to the one whom strated this this is exactly what i ahve been looking for an wondering about.
 

minds_I

Active member
Veteran
Interesting system IM.

A system such as that would do wonders in my grow environment.

Fortunately, My grow is in an out building so if a fire should break out is would not pose a danger to any persons and the lose would the 12'X12' structure and the cab and other articles inside.

More then the lose would the explantation to the F.D, police. Neighbors.

minds_I
 

ChaoticEntity

Active member
I like the heat activate fire extungisher, very ingenious and if I can find one small enough it will be going into my cabinet.
 

Snowdog27

Member
I like the heat activate fire extungisher, very ingenious and if I can find one small enough it will be going into my cabinet.


I was turned onto this same idea about 2 years ago buy a grower named Pipe Dream Believer and have had on ever since, they can be a little pricey but can you really put a price on safety? You can find these unit's at most boating stores(boating USA, West Marine) or on line I can't stress enough how important fire safety is since most people I have heard of getting busted for growing get caught because there house/apt caught fire. Try explaining to your insurance company or Land Lord that the fire was caused because you were growing :bat:

grow smart grow safe
 

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