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EC/PPM guidelines for coco?

D

dramamine

I don't want to start another thread so if someone can chime it would be cool..
I'm handwatering coco(hempys) 1st week of flower
nutes are
GH micro/bloom H3ads 6/9. Feed once a day, 20% runoff usually..
850ppm,PH 6 going in,
1200ppm runoff, PH is close to 5.(using drop kit)
Temps are 86/ 45% humidity.

Plant is healthy as can be from the looks. Does the high runoff indicate overfeeding??
I have had no problems at all which didn't make me think about it.

If coco holds nutes until the plant needs it I don't want to keep flushing,(I flush with low ppm solution) and deprive it especially in an important time. Or is this a non issue?
Some say the run-off isn't important cause that's coming out anyways. Or am I just over thinkn this lol thanks for your time.


You don't need much runoff at all in hempy buckets....and putting plain water or low ppm solution is a bad idea. All you really need to do is make sure your reservoir at the bottom of the bucket never gets totally dry...this way all the salts stay in solution and never crystallize and cause problems.

The plant takes what it wants from the reservoir. You can feed a bit lighter than you are now...reason being that the plant has a steady source of nutrient solution from the res. If your runoff is consistently higher than your input solution, just lower the EC slightly. Otherwise you're just feeding extra nutes that you will later flush out.

On that note, why are you feeding once a day? The whole point of the bucket is that there is a reservoir in the bottom that will feed the plant for at least several days....

You should read the original hempy coco style thread by hempy himself (if you haven't). It's the most simple hydro method there is, but as hempy bitterly lamented...people complicate it or use it while second guessing whether or not it'll work as stated.

The only reason I stopped running hempys was because I don't want to have a bunch of giant containers in the veg area....not enough room. The technique is awesome, though. I use it on a lot of my vegetable plants outside.

Oh, and are you letting your nute solution sit for awhile before you ph it? It's a good idea, because ph can and usually does change within a few hours of mixing. Best to wait and ph it after a few hours at least.



Good luck...hope some of that helps.
 

One Love 731

Senior Member
Veteran
I stay below 800 PPM CNS17 Coco Bloom + additives (Sweet, Silica Blast, CarboLoad and Flora Blend) until 5 weeks then Cns17 Ripe same PPM with a few additives . Seems when I go above 800 is when I see problems.

Environment is everything, if your environment is dialed in you can push them much harder.

1:ying:
 

jumanji2

Member
You don't need much runoff at all in hempy buckets....and putting plain water or low ppm solution is a bad idea. All you really need to do is make sure your reservoir at the bottom of the bucket never gets totally dry...this way all the salts stay in solution and never crystallize and cause problems.

The plant takes what it wants from the reservoir. You can feed a bit lighter than you are now...reason being that the plant has a steady source of nutrient solution from the res. If your runoff is consistently higher than your input solution, just lower the EC slightly. Otherwise you're just feeding extra nutes that you will later flush out.

On that note, why are you feeding once a day? The whole point of the bucket is that there is a reservoir in the bottom that will feed the plant for at least several days....

You should read the original hempy coco style thread by hempy himself (if you haven't). It's the most simple hydro method there is, but as hempy bitterly lamented...people complicate it or use it while second guessing whether or not it'll work as stated.

The only reason I stopped running hempys was because I don't want to have a bunch of giant containers in the veg area....not enough room. The technique is awesome, though. I use it on a lot of my vegetable plants outside.

Oh, and are you letting your nute solution sit for awhile before you ph it? It's a good idea, because ph can and usually does change within a few hours of mixing. Best to wait and ph it after a few hours at least.



Good luck...hope some of that helps.

Dramamine thanks for your advice bro..
Well..the runoff I collect in a cup and test what's coming out. I figured that's what's sitting in that res and feeding the roots. Its just for piece of mind honestly.

I'm feeding once a day cuz when I tip the bucket over nothing comes out..meaning the res must be dry..no? On top of that I'm running a 1000w hps so its gonna dry up quick. I wish it could last me a couple days..maybe next run ill up the conatiner size. I run 2.5g hempys now

I did read the hempy thread and I love the set up. Its all the perks of hydro without some of the headaches and ur absolutely right about the veg containers lol but I have a small op its cool. This is honestly the first time I'm having issues and I started from seed. Like I sd tho...plant is doing great so idk...

I do prepare a 10g batch of nutes at a time so yes they do sit for a while. So what ill do is stop flushing with the low ppm nutes and just ease off a bit on the main batch of nutes to and see what happens. I hope everything stays ok.
 
D

dramamine

Jumanji2--That sounds good, I think...as long as when you say "ease off" you mean lower the EC of your nutes just a bit. Just straight up feeding less frequently will obviously dry out the pots, so not really an option. If your runoff is consistently higher than your input, the plants don't need quite so much, so you can slowly lower it until it's nearly equal. But also, your plants would show you if they were having trouble...

It sounds like you have it under control, although if you ran bigger buckets like you said, then you wouldn't have to water everyday. I'm not sure the benefit of hempy buckets if they have to be watered daily. Peace..
 

Snow Crash

Active member
Veteran
If it ain't broken. Don't fix it.

But just looking at your numbers... 850ppm is more than I would use. 1200ppm is higher than I would want my runoff. Decreasing pH numbers in the runoff would also concern me. 86f and 45% RH is a VPD issue waiting to happen.

But you say they are as healthy as can be so... What do I know?
 

Jnugg

Active member
Veteran
When talking about ppm or EC you should always mention the conversion ie; .5 .64 or .7 conversion.


picture.php


For instance...

1.0 EC is 500 ppm @ .5 conversion,and 640 ppm @ .64 conversion,and 700 ppm @ .7 conversion.


2.0 EC is 1000 ppm @ .5 conversion,and 1280 ppm @ .64 conversion,and 1400 ppm at .7 conversion.
Helps clear up any confusion.
 

theother

Member
Hey Garden Bug. I have what you're looking for.

I don't know why, but for whatever reason people just don't keep track of this stuff (or they refuse to share it). I asked for similar information a time ago and got "run out of town."

I speak in uS/cm. It is a more accurate representation of EC, and if you cut the value in half that would be the Hanna ppm measurement. Also, for beginners in coco, I think that the Botanicare CNS 17 coco/soil system of Grow/Bloom/Ripe is damn near perfect. It's about $10 a quart, $25 a gallon, it has everything you'll need, and it works. Their instructions are a little high ml/gallon wise, but you can always cut them back to about 75% suggested strength and go from there. IMO, there is not an easier and less expensive complete system than CNS 17 Coco/Soil. The addition of a Potassium Silicate (like Pro-Tekt) can be useful as a pH up for this usually acidic system, rather than using GH Potassium Bicarbonate pH+.

For the record, my tap water comes in around 100uS/cm (about 50ppm) so it is pretty clean to begin with. For most growers, if you do not have access to clean water (like if you live in a major metropolitan area with water treatment) then I recommend running Reverse Osmosis filtered water to ensure contaminants (like sodium) are not unbalancing your system.

These nutrient levels are what I consider to be average ballpark. Every strain, and phenotype, is going to have its own "perfect level." These suggestions should be fine for most strains, but you might be able to push more nutrients during weeks 3 and 4 of veg and 4 and 5 of flowering than I suggest. You'll have to determine that as a gardener when you can see what the plants will actually require.

Seedling Stage:
400 to 500 uS/cm
Focus on Cal-Mag, and run a balanced system. You don't want to push just Nitrogen, Phosphorus will help with root development and potassium will balance out the cation exchange. Aim for a 1-1-1 kind of system, the most prevalent element in use at this time should be Calcium

Vegetative Stage:
Week 1: 600uS/cm Maintain the balanced ratio 1-1-1
Week 2: 800uS/cm Increase Nitrogen levels. 2-1-1
Week 3: 1000uS/cm Increase Nitrogen levels, watch for Magnesium shortages. 3-1-1
Week 4: 1200uS/cm Increase Potassium levels 3-1-2

Transition to flowering:

For 2 waterings you'll want to use a more balanced nutrient system and to decrease your Calcium supplementation considerably. If you were using something like GH Micro, or Botanicare Cal-Mag plus at 5ml in veg, this would be the time to cut it back to more like 2ml. Often, after 3-4 weeks in the media the coco achieves the element buffer (or bank) and pushing the continuously high levels of calcium will interrupt the exchange of Magnesium and Potassium during early flowering.

Flowering Stage:
Stretch wk1: 1200uS/cm Maintain vegetative NPK, decreasing Ca, increasing Su+Mag
Stretch wk2: 1200uS/cm Decrease N, increase PK slightly, close to a 3-2-3.
Flower wk3: 1350uS/cm Decrease N more, closer to 2-2-3
Flower wk4: 1450uS/cm Increase Mag and potassium.
Flower wk5: 1600uS/cm Begin PK boosting. 1-2-3
Swell wk6: 1800uS/cm Phosphorus push 1-5-4
Swell wk7: 1600uS/cm cont'd phosphorus push 1-6-4
Ripen wk8: 1400uS/cm very low nitrogen and calcium. 100us/CM extra Epsom Salt and increased K. 1-2-3 again.
Ripen wk9: <500uS/cm flushing. I like to use Fulvic acid for a few days.

Some other things that might help out. I don't like to grow in large containers of coco, I just think it is unnecessary. 8L of coco is plenty. Also, I prefer to amend my coco with aeration material like perlite and GrowStones. I think Roots Organics Coco mix is a fantastic media that you can use much less nutrients on (until the 4th week in the media) and I like to mix a little Botanicare CocoGro in with their mixture because it is a little heavy in perlite when unamended.

When daily waterings start (usually in the 3rd week of flowering for me, but it will vary given planter size and transplant date, etc) I begin to offset my feedings with 1/2 strength waterings. Every other, or sometimes every 2 full strength feedings I follow up with a lower strength watering at a balanced ratio. This will keep buildup a non-issue.

Also, when feeding at higher strength, and especially around the transition phase to flowering, I find that it is VERY important that I maintain at the minimum 33% run off (3L in, 1L out). Measure your runoff EC to determine if you are washing out a lot of buildup. If I use a 1000uS/cm solution and if I get anything more than 1300uS/cm in the runoff then I know that the media is a little over-saturated and this is washing out. In this case I simply continue to rinse the media with the 1000uS/cm solution until the runoff measures within the range I am looking for. Usually, a 1:1 runoff ratio (4L in, 2L out) is all it takes to keep any buildup completely out of the equation.

Here's a nutrient calculator I have put together using a spreadsheet (I made it in openoffice and converted to .xls)

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=EGSYJSW8

Just enter the required information and you are on your way. You will want to measure your ppm levels compared to the predictions and compensate for deviances. Liquid Karma tests about 9x higher than predicted, while Hydroplex tests about 90% of predicted. This calculator requires personalization, but it is setup to predict up to 10 nutrients at a time in a solution. I have mine dialed perfectly when running:
Canna Coco A
Canna Coco B
Cal-Mag Plus
Liquid Karma
Pro-Tekt
CNS 17 Ripe
Hydroplex
Big Bud
Nirvana
Snow Storm Ultra
Bud Candy

This is where these levels, my 2 years of experience, and this calculator have taken me (40 days from 12/12, sorry about the white balance, not burned just glare)

Sorry to post on such an old thread, but this information is absolutely incredible! Really appreciate you taking the time to lay this all out so concisely. I did have a couple of quick questions, I would love to get my hands on your spreadsheet calc but it seems all the DL links are broken. I was also wondering during what week do you make the switch from canna AB to the CNS 17 Ripe. I absolutely think you are on the right track as I have had issues with to much N and CA causing some lockouts etc.

Again sorry for bumping this after such a long time but good information is always worth bringing to the top.
 

stoned40yrs

Ripped since 1965
Veteran
Too complicated, just because it works don't mean bo diddly. A thousand ways less complicated work just as well on this weed we grow. Whatever floats your boat though, have fun, I think he put a couple decimal points in the wrong place on his formula :blowbubbles:
 

Snow Crash

Active member
Veteran
Sorry to post on such an old thread, but this information is absolutely incredible! Really appreciate you taking the time to lay this all out so concisely. I did have a couple of quick questions, I would love to get my hands on your spreadsheet calc but it seems all the DL links are broken. I was also wondering during what week do you make the switch from canna AB to the CNS 17 Ripe. I absolutely think you are on the right track as I have had issues with to much N and CA causing some lockouts etc.

Again sorry for bumping this after such a long time but good information is always worth bringing to the top.

No trouble man. After reading it over I have certainly evolved in some ways in my own garden.

I don't have the calculator handy anymore but I'll see what I can do about reloading that.

I will ween off the Canna A+B sometime around the 40th to 45th day depending on how things are going. This gives 1-2 weeks of CNS17 Ripe before cutting out everything for another 1-2 weeks prior to harvest.
 

theother

Member
No trouble man. After reading it over I have certainly evolved in some ways in my own garden.

I don't have the calculator handy anymore but I'll see what I can do about reloading that.

I will ween off the Canna A+B sometime around the 40th to 45th day depending on how things are going. This gives 1-2 weeks of CNS17 Ripe before cutting out everything for another 1-2 weeks prior to harvest.

Excellent, that is just about what I was expecting, I love the canna, its clean, the res is clean, stuff is great, but the ratios just seem less than ideal certain times. I caught a post of yours awhile back and i have replaced cannazyme for the most part with an appropriate amount of hydroplex and been very happy, thank you for that tip!

Do you think your target ratios have changed since you first created this? I like all the ec readings, they are just about what I shoot for in coco dtw. If you have changed your target ratios I would be very interested in getting an idea of what they are now. I think understanding ratios is the key to being able to use whatever additives fit everyone's individual situation (and budget) best and still getting great results.

I was thinking about something last night, not sure I am doing my calcs correctly, when you are calculating the ratio of your solution, do you factor out the oxygen in P2O5 and k20? It seems to me that this is a crucial point for me to understand. I like the idea of converting guaranteed analysis to ppm and then getting the npk of the solution as a whole, but just want to make sure I am doing it correctly. Currently using cannastats to do the conversions for me.

One final question, if I remember right you are handwatering daily, if you were feeding multiple times a day (drip manifold dtw) would you modify your program at all? I feed 3 times when they first come in and bump them up to 5 in the middle of bloom. I run drip clean in everything (at .5 ml per gallon) and hand water teas once or twice a week with some organics (kelp, liquid guano, great white (not in every tea), and a carb)

Again thank you so much for dropping the knowledge, I really appreciate it, I know your helping lots of people here.
 

Snow Crash

Active member
Veteran
My last few grows have been much less accurate and labor intensive. I guess I work now more off of an "abstract" concept of what is going in and trying to anticipate plant and media requirements before they happen. This is something that is difficult to describe in any kind of precise or automated way.

My ratios are still about what I like to run or where I am gunning for when I'm arbitrarily mixing together a little of this and a little of that. I do not calculate out the oxygen in the ratios I provide. They are just like what you would read off a bottle.

I don't think I'd change much for multiple daily feedings, but that doesn't mean there aren't things to change. Really, my intention here was more as a guideline than as an absolute rule and I think that every grow room, nutrient line, and mixture of products has it's own quirks and variables that are impossible to anticipate until you've done it yourself at least once. There's definitely room for improvement and alterations you can make to my suggestions that will work better for your garden, and I just cannot guess what those might be, so I try to be very general when it comes to this kind of stuff.

In my own garden... I just wing it these days... It's a long road without shortcuts to get here but I will do what I can to light the way, man.
 

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks for this great information. Just having the guidelines will be a big help for us rookies! Thanks:tiphat:
 

Redsvitality

New member
Snow crash how do I get access to your spread sheet

Snow crash how do I get access to your spread sheet

Would really like to use your spread sheet, megaupload. Thank you. Your info had been spot on. :woohoo:
 

Snow Crash

Active member
Veteran
I think I still have it saved on an old hard drive. I'll try to get that re-hosted somewhere more reliable.
 

eebbnflow

Member
Hey Garden Bug. I have what you're looking for.

I don't know why, but for whatever reason people just don't keep track of this stuff (or they refuse to share it). I asked for similar information a time ago and got "run out of town."

I speak in uS/cm. It is a more accurate representation of EC, and if you cut the value in half that would be the Hanna ppm measurement. Also, for beginners in coco, I think that the Botanicare CNS 17 coco/soil system of Grow/Bloom/Ripe is damn near perfect. It's about $10 a quart, $25 a gallon, it has everything you'll need, and it works. Their instructions are a little high ml/gallon wise, but you can always cut them back to about 75% suggested strength and go from there. IMO, there is not an easier and less expensive complete system than CNS 17 Coco/Soil. The addition of a Potassium Silicate (like Pro-Tekt) can be useful as a pH up for this usually acidic system, rather than using GH Potassium Bicarbonate pH+.

For the record, my tap water comes in around 100uS/cm (about 50ppm) so it is pretty clean to begin with. For most growers, if you do not have access to clean water (like if you live in a major metropolitan area with water treatment) then I recommend running Reverse Osmosis filtered water to ensure contaminants (like sodium) are not unbalancing your system.

These nutrient levels are what I consider to be average ballpark. Every strain, and phenotype, is going to have its own "perfect level." These suggestions should be fine for most strains, but you might be able to push more nutrients during weeks 3 and 4 of veg and 4 and 5 of flowering than I suggest. You'll have to determine that as a gardener when you can see what the plants will actually require.

Seedling Stage:
400 to 500 uS/cm
Focus on Cal-Mag, and run a balanced system. You don't want to push just Nitrogen, Phosphorus will help with root development and potassium will balance out the cation exchange. Aim for a 1-1-1 kind of system, the most prevalent element in use at this time should be Calcium

Vegetative Stage:
Week 1: 600uS/cm Maintain the balanced ratio 1-1-1
Week 2: 800uS/cm Increase Nitrogen levels. 2-1-1
Week 3: 1000uS/cm Increase Nitrogen levels, watch for Magnesium shortages. 3-1-1
Week 4: 1200uS/cm Increase Potassium levels 3-1-2

Transition to flowering:

For 2 waterings you'll want to use a more balanced nutrient system and to decrease your Calcium supplementation considerably. If you were using something like GH Micro, or Botanicare Cal-Mag plus at 5ml in veg, this would be the time to cut it back to more like 2ml. Often, after 3-4 weeks in the media the coco achieves the element buffer (or bank) and pushing the continuously high levels of calcium will interrupt the exchange of Magnesium and Potassium during early flowering.

Flowering Stage:
Stretch wk1: 1200uS/cm Maintain vegetative NPK, decreasing Ca, increasing Su+Mag
Stretch wk2: 1200uS/cm Decrease N, increase PK slightly, close to a 3-2-3.
Flower wk3: 1350uS/cm Decrease N more, closer to 2-2-3
Flower wk4: 1450uS/cm Increase Mag and potassium.
Flower wk5: 1600uS/cm Begin PK boosting. 1-2-3
Swell wk6: 1800uS/cm Phosphorus push 1-5-4
Swell wk7: 1600uS/cm cont'd phosphorus push 1-6-4
Ripen wk8: 1400uS/cm very low nitrogen and calcium. 100us/CM extra Epsom Salt and increased K. 1-2-3 again.
Ripen wk9: <500uS/cm flushing. I like to use Fulvic acid for a few days.

Some other things that might help out. I don't like to grow in large containers of coco, I just think it is unnecessary. 8L of coco is plenty. Also, I prefer to amend my coco with aeration material like perlite and GrowStones. I think Roots Organics Coco mix is a fantastic media that you can use much less nutrients on (until the 4th week in the media) and I like to mix a little Botanicare CocoGro in with their mixture because it is a little heavy in perlite when unamended.

When daily waterings start (usually in the 3rd week of flowering for me, but it will vary given planter size and transplant date, etc) I begin to offset my feedings with 1/2 strength waterings. Every other, or sometimes every 2 full strength feedings I follow up with a lower strength watering at a balanced ratio. This will keep buildup a non-issue.

Also, when feeding at higher strength, and especially around the transition phase to flowering, I find that it is VERY important that I maintain at the minimum 33% run off (3L in, 1L out). Measure your runoff EC to determine if you are washing out a lot of buildup. If I use a 1000uS/cm solution and if I get anything more than 1300uS/cm in the runoff then I know that the media is a little over-saturated and this is washing out. In this case I simply continue to rinse the media with the 1000uS/cm solution until the runoff measures within the range I am looking for. Usually, a 1:1 runoff ratio (4L in, 2L out) is all it takes to keep any buildup completely out of the equation.

Here's a nutrient calculator I have put together using a spreadsheet (I made it in openoffice and converted to .xls)

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=EGSYJSW8

Just enter the required information and you are on your way. You will want to measure your ppm levels compared to the predictions and compensate for deviances. Liquid Karma tests about 9x higher than predicted, while Hydroplex tests about 90% of predicted. This calculator requires personalization, but it is setup to predict up to 10 nutrients at a time in a solution. I have mine dialed perfectly when running:
Canna Coco A
Canna Coco B
Cal-Mag Plus
Liquid Karma
Pro-Tekt
CNS 17 Ripe
Hydroplex
Big Bud
Nirvana
Snow Storm Ultra
Bud Candy

This is where these levels, my 2 years of experience, and this calculator have taken me (40 days from 12/12, sorry about the white balance, not burned just glare)

View Image

Hey Snowc Crash I have been following this feed chart for a year now . I use cocos AB , DTW hand fed . I was wondering how I can tweak the NPK -in Veg how do I boost N.and in flower how do I boost PK? would these be additives ? or is this done by reducing/increasing the amounts of A part or B part . thank you
 

Snow Crash

Active member
Veteran
Hey Snowc Crash I have been following this feed chart for a year now . I use cocos AB , DTW hand fed . I was wondering how I can tweak the NPK -in Veg how do I boost N.and in flower how do I boost PK? would these be additives ? or is this done by reducing/increasing the amounts of A part or B part . thank you

If you're running H&G I'd stick with their line up. They have a product literally called "Nitrogen Boost." For Flowering you can use Shooting Powder or Top Shooter (not both), and Top Booster. But that stuff is impossible to find right now because H&G moved their manufacturing stateside and have run into some production issues. Really, any monopotassium phosphate is going to do the trick. I've been trying a few things, Mad Farmer M.O.A.B. works, so does KoolBloom Dry and Liquid, Botanicare Hydroplex is good stuff too. Green Planet makes a product called "Dense Bud Compactor" and it's a 0-0-62, so if you're looking for Potassium on a stand alone that's the right stuff there.

Two-Part nutrient programs from Holland (Canna, H&G, Dutch Master, DynaGro, Mills, probably others) all use the same amount of A to B in every feeding. The only two part nutrient system I am aware of that you can use more of A than B, then more of B than A is General Hydroponics FloraDuo.

I've moved to one-part systems that have a growth stage specific bottles. Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Grow and Bloom have been crushing it in my grow space and I'm really starting to jump on that Botanicare-wagon.
 
Two-Part nutrient programs from Holland (Canna, H&G, Dutch Master, DynaGro, Mills, probably others) all use the same amount of A to B in every feeding. The only two part nutrient system I am aware of that you can use more of A than B, then more of B than A is General Hydroponics FloraDuo.
Thanks for all the info you dropped in this (excellent) thread.

I read where one grower was cutting the A of H&G (Cocos or Aqua Flakes AB) by 1/3 in mid flower. Didn't seem to do anything for me. You're right that most AB formulas call for equal parts AB all the way through. We know that coco holds onto nutes, making it tricky to get a good fade on your fan leaves in late flower.

I was googling Aptus additives and inadvertently came across Greenstone Nutrients. Their feed chart calls for reducing part A in mid flower. Part A contains all the N and half the K.

The nutes I've been using (AB Super Nutrients) look really unbalanced on paper. My strains are responding to it pretty well so far, but I'm afraid too much K might cause Mag lockout in coco. So I finally ordered quart bottles of the Greenstone AB Coco/Soil and CalMag today.

I'll report back in a week or two after I see how it's working. My current grow is in early veg stage. I'm about to pot up from 18oz cups w/ coco based soil (Manna Mix) into 1 gal pots w/ 75% Canna Coco:25% Perlite. I'm planning to amend this w/ 14 tbsp dolomite lime granules, and water with 5ml CALiMAGic and 5< ml/gal base nutes before transplant to avoid yellowing. Flower setup is DTW in Pro-Cal #2 SQ pots (2 gal) with a low pressure drip halo system by Garden Galaxy.
 

eebbnflow

Member
thanks snowcrash . im going to stick with the cocos and continue this way for now . I don't really see me needing to add anything , I was really curious about the a + b thing . I always have used equal parts of both every time .
 
always use a .5 conversion, no matter what your meter says. use EC, calibrate often, and take it in half at that will be your ppms. I have a hanna 9813-6, which uses a .7 conversion, so when i was using ppm, it was hurting me. stay with EC and take half of it as your ppm.
I have the same Hanna meter. The manual says conversion factor is "variable, 0.56 to 0.78=1µS/cm according with TDS442 curve". So I'm trying to convert my mind over to EC (mS/cm).

This Hanna meter has served me well, and to be honest, you can just use it in ppm without any problems. A constant conversion factor would probably be easier to deal with, however. I might get a Bluelab soon.
 

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