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How to make shatter/amber glass

B

BigPanda420

New member
SkyHighLer said:
On what authority do you deem a griddle to be safe around exposed butane? Have you taken it completely apart and looked for exposed thermostat switching contacts? Did you look for over heat and/or over current components that might blow like a fuse, maybe with a heat hot enough to ignite butane?
"Common practice" at YouTube does not equal common sense...
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If you think it's unsafe then simply don't do it that way. What can I say other than you're nitpicking VERY specific details. If any of the information available has taught anyone anything it's that safety comes first. If you feel you may ignite butane then use the extractor away from the heat source with a pyrex lower dish containing heated water and then use the griddle once purging safety has removed the majority of the butane.

Common sense is maintaining proper ventilation when using a volatile substance period. not to mention adding heat into the equation. I've been making concentrates since before YouTube existed and I've enjoyed seeing different people's techniques if ever a good video was made on there. YouTube is great because it allows people to get themselves visually acquainted with the process, not a bad resource if you ask me. As always I say just experiment and find your own method that you find works and maintains a safe environment.
 
B

BigPanda420

New member
hammalamma said:
Warming up your tane is only going to pull more undesirables, keep everything cold.
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What kind of information do you have to back that up? So you're saying that increasing pressure slightly will pull more undesirable material into the oil? What would it be pulling into the oil?

Butane cannot be warmed, only slightly warming the container, this only increases pressure.
 
M

midwestHIGHS

Member
Veteran
It's true, heating your cans increases pressure makes the solvent more aggressive and butane being non polar it will pick up more plant waxes, lipids and fats rather then it being chilled. Dry ice is what most people are using these days to keep the butane liquid during the extraction and to avoid picking up lots of these inactive and irritating waxes. Heating cans does increase yield, but decreases quality.

I've done many experiments to back this up and anyone that is an avid shatter or absolute aficionado/extract artist should know this.
 
hammalamma

hammalamma

Member
Veteran
BigPanda420 said:
What kind of information do you have to back that up? So you're saying that increasing pressure slightly will pull more undesirable material into the oil? What would it be pulling into the oil?

Butane cannot be warmed, only slightly warming the container, this only increases pressure.
Click to expand...

Wax, chlorophyll, stuff that doesn't get you high. This is info any body who is worth their weight in erl should know. Do a lil reading on here, especially read some of jump177's post he can explain it better than I can.
 
H

Hydrocronic

New member
So on my quest to make shatter I've found it very simple... I blast into a cold Pyrex and let it evaporate the liquid outside in the cold with my Pyrex sitting on cold concrete. Then after all liquid is gone I purge on hot water out of the tap. I pop all the bubbles and smear them in. I let sit for 72 hours. Then I put my dish back in some warm water so the shatter loosens up and I scrape. Wallah bomb dabs.. Big yells.... Vaced it once and it didn't move.... Opinions?
 
V

vapor

Active member
Veteran
Rickys bong said:
200 proof Ethanol is hard to get and won't result in any improvement to the process, or make any real difference one way or the other.

It is not possible to get 100% pure (200 proof) ethyl alcohol through distillation only . To remove the final 4-5% requires running it through a molecular sieve, usually a specific type of activated carbon.

The remaining traces of water get removed by this secondary process.

RB
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carbon for water? i have used zeolite for water in ethanol carbon is for the heads/tails that are left? A good ethanol recipe will go along way in end falvors. but it comes down to experience running the still and not smearing the heads hearts and tails through your run//// making oil will lead you down many roads of late night activities:dance013:
 
P

pdot6000

New member
What is the name of the video you saw in high times or what issue/volume did you see this advertisement for the video?
 
P

pdot6000

New member
faintfuzzies said:
Ok i know how to make bho ,But how do you make it hard like shatter/amber glass ? . I seen a video for sale in high times that tells you but they want 250.00 bucks. they are nuts and should be ashamed.

I hoping someone here knows how its done.. I cant stand stickyness of bho, i rather have something more stable and easy to handle

Thanks

Faint
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What is the name of the video you saw in high times or what issue/volume did you see this advertisement for the video?
 
Daub Marley

Daub Marley

Member
The problem with cooling it with dry ice is that it will reduce the temperature below butane's boiling point. This keeps it in liquid form and changes the process from a super critical extraction to liquid flow through extraction. This can be compared to the thermos method, but instead of the solvent sitting in the same container with the herbs for a while it just flows through. It is not efficient but, that is the extreme end of cold though, and somewhere in between ambient and dry ice temperature is the sweet spot.
 
Sirdabsalot46n2

Sirdabsalot46n2

Member
Veteran
I'm certainly no expert in Supercritical extractions, however..

The Supercritical range begins at 1100 psi and 87 degrees. most compressed gas systems are rated at 2000, 5000 and 10,000 psi.

How does that^ compare remotely to a standard Column extraction?
BHO is otherwise known as basic compressed gas extraction. Defined as follows..

The pressure forces the solvent into the cell walls of the plant material and separates the desired constituent rapidly. The process of separating the extract from the solvent varies from one solvent to another.

Supercritical Fluid extraction involves heating the CO 2 to above 87°F and pumping it above 1,100 psi. Usually this work is done between 6,000-10,000 psi. Supercritical Fluid CO 2 can best be described as a dense fog whereas the butane is in it's liquid state during the extraction

I could be wrong of course.
 
Daub Marley

Daub Marley

Member
Sirdabsalot46n2 said:
I'm certainly no expert in Supercritical extractions, however..

The Supercritical range begins at 1100 psi and 87 degrees. most compressed gas systems are rated at 2000, 5000 and 10,000 psi.

Supercritical Fluid extraction involves heating the CO 2 to above 87°F and pumping it above 1,100 psi. Usually this work is done between 6,000-10,000 psi. Supercritical Fluid CO 2 can best be described as a dense fog whereas the butane is in it's liquid state during the extraction

I could be wrong of course.
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What's up sirdabsalot!
I think you might be confusing the pressures/heat of butane and CO2, and there is a great difference in the pressures required to reach supercrital state between the two. If you have ever not packed your material down enough you'll notice that the extraction hardly works at all. Then you pack it in a little more and the extraction works like a charm. The reason is that the pressure was not great enough in the loosely packed material for the butane to reach supercritical pressure. I could be wrong though, and my feeling certainly aren't going to be hurt if you prove that.
 
P

pdot6000

New member
Sirdabsalot46n2 said:
^ Cannabis Alchemy, or something very similar.

It simply teaches how to winterize.
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Are there any videos available that specialize in the part that helps you get into a rock candy consistency, all I have at the moment is a goop. I gave it a warm bath, and used a vacuum canister to purge it but i dont know how to get the last of the moisture out, I dont know wanna experiment too much without finding out first what I should be doing
 
J

JointOperation

Active member
without a vac.. i been letting my shit waterbath at 120 . for the last 3 days. and wen i go to touch it.. even at 120 degrees. its rock hard.. without a vac until monday.. so i wanted to see how much butane i can get out .. and see if its even possible to get all the butane out.. with a very long heat purge..

also.. i use the biggest pyrex i could find.. so that it stays nice and thin while purging.. also using a torch to raze bubbles to the top by running some heat over the top..

ill post some pics of before the vac chamber later today wen i scrape it.
 
Daub Marley

Daub Marley

Member
pdot6000 said:
Are there any videos available that specialize in the part that helps you get into a rock candy consistency, all I have at the moment is a goop. I gave it a warm bath, and used a vacuum canister to purge it but i dont know how to get the last of the moisture out, I dont know wanna experiment too much without finding out first what I should be doing
Click to expand...
If you heated it too much and decarbed it then your stuck. That is a one ways street. It's a lot harder than people make it seem though so I think your probably okay.
Spread it as thin as possible. When you think its thin spread enough spread it thinner because all evaporation happens at the surface. When it's dry it will be impossible to scrap up, so put it in the microwave for less than a minute. (I know this sounds sketchy but trust me). At that point it will stick together and you can scrape it up.
That is only a temporary shatter though because agitation or even moisture can turn it back into a gooey consistency. So the real way to guarantee shatter is to winterize and thin film evaporation. If you winterize and thin film evaporate and its still not a shatter then it's either decarbed or it still has solvent in it.
 
C

CaliGabe

Daub Marley said:
If you heated it too much and decarbed it then your stuck. That is a one ways street. It's a lot harder than people make it seem though so I think your probably okay.
Spread it as thin as possible. When you think its thin spread enough spread it thinner because all evaporation happens at the surface. When it's dry it will be impossible to scrap up, so put it in the microwave for less than a minute. (I know this sounds sketchy but trust me). At that point it will stick together and you can scrape it up.
That is only a temporary shatter though because agitation or even moisture can turn it back into a gooey consistency. So the real way to guarantee shatter is to winterize and thin film evaporation. If you winterize and thin film evaporate and its still not a shatter then it's either decarbed or it still has solvent in it.
Click to expand...
I'm still on a bit of a learning curve with things and wondering about the winterization process and possible loss of terpenes. Since terpenes are basically alcohols, and can be extremely volatile, aren't you going to lose some fragrance/flavor through the winterization process when the alcohol is removed?

I was reading recently where someone had created shatter then over time it became soft and were going back to the actual extraction process as the source of their problems. I'm wondering if it had more to do with the material decarbing over time or simply was picking up moisture. If picking up moisture then what compounds in the concentrate are hygroscopic?

In reading your post it seems the waxes, removed through winterizing, play a big role in the 'softness' of the material either directly through their characteristics or less likely their hygroscopic tendencies? Can't see waxes being hygroscopic lol.

Another thing with shatter might the best thing be something like nitrogen purging, vacuum packaging and storing in a cold enviro be best for long term viability?
 
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