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Seeking Critique on Vert Colosseum SOG concept.

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
Ok. Got the stands built today. I haven't got the casters yet but you should be able to get the basic idea:

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I ended up having enough 2x8s left over to make the legs out of 2x8s instead of 2x4s as pictured in the sketchup models. I figure it's a relatively heavy table, so I might as well give it some sturdy legs.

So, as I reported last night, the top tier will hold 40 Treepots with approximately 2" between each.

The bottom tier will hold 30 Treepots with the same spacing.

While I was putting my stands together, there was a knock on my door and I got my ballasts, fan & filter, E&F attachments and water pump. I got my bulbs last week.

Here's the rub: The goddamn moguls & cords for the bulbs are on back order. I'm hoping I can find somewhere locally to buy them so that I can get the lights up and running, but in the meantime, I guess I'll keep myself busy with the pond liner and getting the holes cut for the E&F stuff.

Thanks for everybody's enthusiasm toward this project. I will update this grow (once it begins) feast or famine. If I totally screw the pooch, you'll know exactly how and why and where.

Looking forward to getting started and will of course post more pictures as they come.

I'll also try to remember to take some picture of the stands by themselves so you can see how they were built.
 

cirog

Member
I was able to source some moguls from a logcal lighting supply house, They have a commercial section. I just went in playing dumb saying I was a new worker and my boss sent me in for some e-39 mogul bases. They felt sorry for me and handed me exactly what i was looking for.
 

420ish

Active member
nice design!subbed. did you think about using composite decking for the trough table?i would think the plastic wood wouldnt warp or need any coating of paint/sealer.just caulk the joints
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
nice design!subbed. did you think about using composite decking for the trough table?i would think the plastic wood wouldnt warp or need any coating of paint/sealer.just caulk the joints


I did think about it. But I wasn't sure about potential for off-gassing and it was more expensive than the 2x8s.
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
I was able to source some moguls from a logcal lighting supply house, They have a commercial section. I just went in playing dumb saying I was a new worker and my boss sent me in for some e-39 mogul bases. They felt sorry for me and handed me exactly what i was looking for.

Well, AFAIK, I need Sun System cables to power the lights. If someone tells me, "Bullshit, it's a standard fitting. Any cable with mogul will do," then I'll run right out and do as you recommend. I ordered 15ft Sun System cables for the Sun System Cropmaster ballasts I bought, and they come with the moguls attached.

I'm a TOTAL newb when it comes to remote ballasted HID lights. Any recommendations/suggestions are appreciated.
 

StealthDragon

Recovering UO addict.
Veteran
WHOO HOOO..an update to my favorite thread :lurk:

nice to see you back in action sir. :tiphat:

edit: most different brands of ballasts have different shapes to the plug that goes to the mogul..proprietary or w/e.
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
WHOO HOOO..an update to my favorite thread :lurk:

nice to see you back in action sir. :tiphat:

Awww.. shucks. :) Thanks, homie!

:thank you:

edit: most different brands of ballasts have different shapes to the plug that goes to the mogul..proprietary or w/e.
That's what I figured.

Good news: the store I bought from is expecting them to come in tomorrow and they'll ship them out to me. So I should have them in 5-6 days.

If anybody is wondering why I haven't gotten the drywall done yet, it's because I haven't got a truck like Mr. Bobblehead, so I have to actually rent a truck. Luckily, I found out that I can rent one from Lowe's or Home Depot for $20 bucks/hour. I should be able to load the truck up with drywall and then drive home and unload it and drive it back there in the allotted time.

Got a load of paint on my table today. Got it siliconed up last night. Gonna get the pond liner going tomorrow.

Anybody have any experience bonding a rubber pond liner to wood? :)
 

Canada

Active member
Awww.. shucks. :) Thanks, homie!

:thank you:

That's what I figured.

Good news: the store I bought from is expecting them to come in tomorrow and they'll ship them out to me. So I should have them in 5-6 days.

If anybody is wondering why I haven't gotten the drywall done yet, it's because I haven't got a truck like Mr. Bobblehead, so I have to actually rent a truck. Luckily, I found out that I can rent one from Lowe's or Home Depot for $20 bucks/hour. I should be able to load the truck up with drywall and then drive home and unload it and drive it back there in the allotted time.

Got a load of paint on my table today. Got it siliconed up last night. Gonna get the pond liner going tomorrow.

Anybody have any experience bonding a rubber pond liner to wood? :)


Theres a post with this gigantic shade like 12 feet by 6 feet i forget what the post is called but he makes osb tables and adds pond liner ill look for a link
 

StealthDragon

Recovering UO addict.
Veteran
cleaning the rubber will give a much stronger bond to the wood...if it's real rubber/latex. I recommend naptha (coleman fuel) or mineral spirits. alcohol would probably do the trick as well. Regular old rubber cement will bond decent without deteriorating the rubber...for a stronger bond go with gorilla glue or superglues..which will dry hard and superstrong, but deteriorate the rubber a little. Weird..I do actually have some experience with gluing latex..but not so much to wood....just to itself.

disregard all this if it's not natural latex/rubber. :joint:
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran

I laughed out loud at this one... which is pretty rare.

cleaning the rubber will give a much stronger bond to the wood...if it's real rubber/latex. I recommend naptha (coleman fuel) or mineral spirits. alcohol would probably do the trick as well. Regular old rubber cement will bond decent without deteriorating the rubber...for a stronger bond go with gorilla glue or superglues..which will dry hard and superstrong, but deteriorate the rubber a little. Weird..I do actually have some experience with gluing latex..but not so much to wood....just to itself.

disregard all this if it's not natural latex/rubber.
petard2.gif

Ok. What I got is this:

Ethylene-propylene rubber (AKA EPDM)

Apparently its also used for roofing.

Anybody with experience, holla. I'll be on google. :)
 
Last edited:
G

greenmatter

hey anti, what is your pond liner made of? is it PVC or something else?
 
Last edited:
G

greenmatter

the biggest problem when you are working with any sheet material (and trying to make it water tight) are the outside corners. when you wrap one you have to cut the material at least once. they make prefab outside corners for pvc shower pans. you should see if you can find them in EPDM. i have done 1 or 200 shower pans and they make things way easier.
also see if they make a solvent glue for the EPDM, you are going to get a better seal than silicone. they make all this stuff for PVC, so is it too late to change materials? not sure about price on pond liner but PVC is not that pricey.
if you put this liner together right you could make it removable so you could throw it in a bucket of bleach between crops. if you glue it down your stuck(i love a pun) with scrubbing.
sorry for throwing my 2 cents in this late in the game
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
Ok. I've been on google for hours....

here's the best i've found thus far.

I've found several competing brands, but most of them are SUPER toxic and available in 1-gallon containers for $60.

One idea would be to buy a pond-liner patch kit and just use the small amount of sealant that comes with one. Total cost $17

untitled_3.jpg


I just found this stuff (above). It was from some random RV dealer but it's only $8 + shipping and i think one caulk tube size will be more than enough.

Here's the description:

Non-hazardous sealant exceeds the demanding needs of a roofing sealant while providing a cleaner, safer work environment. Flexible, waterproof compound is designed for EPDM rubber, TPO(thermoplastic olefin), fiberglass, wood, aluminum, steel or masonry, and may be painted over after outer skin has formed.

I'm gonna look around a bit more and if I don't find something better (and local) I'll order a tube tomorrow.... unless someone else has a better solution.
 
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