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Old 02-26-2006, 06:14 AM #11
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Originally Posted by jinxie
hello peeps, yes coco is the shit, I just pulled my first harvest off and yes it took some tweaking for sure.
I find the info regarding coco on the web pitiful, it has such potentiel alone or mixed with other substrates,.
Here is some info and tips for using coco in no particular order...

1.Don't cheap on the coco, bricks are good for ebb and flow but you have to watch the compressed stuff, sometimes it's too salty. Canna is very good.
2.Do an initial wash with a light cal/mag solution.
3.The best results in coco are using ferts designed for coco like Canna series, I've just completed a run with PBPro series with added calmag and it works well too.
4.You cannot overwater with coco but it does help to cut it with hydroton or 20%perlite for grit and oxygenation.
5.You can reuse you medium up to 3 times and coco is a renewable and eco friendly source of substrate.
6.The typical increase in yield from soil to coco is ~10%, typically this is from increased aeration in the root zone but also from it's nutrient web that favors cationic exchange.
7.It actually works well with hard waters wich typically can lead to ph fluctuations in hydro.
8.Coco can harbour a thriving microherd and is ideal for organic or inorganic grows alike.

Well that's all for now, i'll look into some links I used to have.
Coco and organics has occupied my thoughts for awhile now, it's relatively unchartered teritory when applied to 100% hardcore organic regime based on ammendments like kelp meal, worm castings, guanos and teas etc.
It is unclear to me yet whether dolomite lime is a compatible source of calcium and magnesium as well as a good ph buffer for the coco.
Dlime had a clear role in peat based mixes as ph of peat is low and lime buffers to upper 6's so we get an even 6.-6.5 range.
Coco is self buffered, it easily takes on the ph of the nute solutions we feed it.

Peace coco nuts and ty for taking up the cause.

Jinx
Great post man, thanks.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:25 AM #12
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ive just pulled my first coco scrog, shits so easy using GT coco nutes.
in the process now of switching to a 30 pot sog also using coco.







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Old 02-26-2006, 10:28 AM #13
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Thumbs up a few coco peat info thread links...

What is Coco Peat (Coir)?...
and why is it desirable as a soiless growing media? (fyi)
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=6805

Coco Coir, what's better to mix with it, Perlite or Hydroton?
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=19280

SOIL vs COCO?
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.p...t=coco+buckets

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Old 02-26-2006, 11:17 AM #14
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The following is digested from the book
"Integral Hydroponics".
.............................. .............................. ..

COCO COIR
is a product derived from the husks of the coconut.
Visually it looks like peat.

It's air capacity is about 30%.

Coir is most suited as a run to waste medium.

Coir can become saturated and it is not truly inert medium.
This means that the nutrient will change over a short period (due to the nutrient collecting micro and macro elements as it passes through the coir.


Coir tends to release potassium and to withold calcium.
For this reason it is desirable to use a nutrient that is blended specifically for coir.

Coir has a remarkable capacity to protect the plants root system in times of heat.

It also tends to promote vigorous and healthy root development.


Plant growth tends to be very consistant with coir.
Coir is very tolerant of over and under watering, which makes it a very forgiving growing medium.

Coir has a very strong cation exchange ability, which means it can hold and release nutrient elements based on the plants needs.

Coir tends to retain nutrient salts. because of this, less nutrient (lower ec) is required.

On a less positive note, coir can also contain high levels of sodium (salt).
...
If your growing in coir be aware that this can be a potential problem.

Either purchase a pre-flushed coir product or flush ph (5.5-6.0) stabilised water through the coir prior to use.
Measure the ec of the water and then measure the ec of the run off.
When they are the same, it is ready for use.

Large amounts of potassium are naturally present in coir.

Potassium competes with calcium and magnesium... buffering and plant nutrition needs to compensate for this!!

For this reason there are several nutrients that are specifically formulated with the coco coir's unique characteristics in mind.

By using a nutrient specifically formulated for the coir based system, you are ensuring that your plants are receiving the best possible nutritient package.


[As coco gets old it breaks down and releases P and K.
That's why the coco nutrients are lower in P and K, to allow for the additional nutrients released by the medium.
In the early stages the coco is inert and therefore a "standard" grow formula works well.
As you enter flower that is why It is usually strongly suggested that one purchase and use a Coco specific nutrient formula. (for best possible results.)


A run to waste "runoff" of 10-20% of the volume watered each watering is the most common and usual type recommendation to avoid the possibility with salt(s) build-up in the coco media.



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Old 02-26-2006, 01:11 PM #15
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Nice.
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Old 02-26-2006, 05:27 PM #16
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For all you hand watering folks remember that just because coco cannot be overwatered it doesn't mean you HAVE to water every day or second day.
Coco is suitable for soil like applications where hand watering occurs every 3-4 days on average.
Watering until some runoff occurs is always good, 25% runoff is a waste just alittle runoff is fine unless you typically overfeed them.
I feed PBPro with calamg @5ml/gallon every 2nd or 3rd watering depending on the growth stage, I used worm casting teas with molasses and some kelp meal as a plain watering between feeding but this is overkill.
You can also feed coco from the bottom up, just fill the saucers under you pots and watch it dissappear.

Remember to rinse the initial medium with calmag as this will release the potassium that occupies most of the initial food web, often young clones/seedling start twisting from overly high K until they are big enough to uptake the high K levels and that calcium ans magnesium start binding in the K's place.

I wish I had not deleted all my grow pics and budshots so I can show you the results and to alesser extent the problems that can occur like calcium def for users not feeding with a coco designed nute regiment.
I am not uploiading pics to any server anymore so others will have to fill in with pictures.

Peace
J

Last edited by jinxie; 02-26-2006 at 05:32 PM..
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:25 PM #17
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Jinxie brings up some good points. I feel I need to add that depending on the percentage of coir to perlite (or whatever), the container size and root mass really are a few of the determining factors in hand-watering. I run in smaller sized containers so 3-4 isn't an option for me even it I went straight coco :-)

Jinxie, what strength PBP do you use with the 5ml calmag in grow and bloom?
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:37 PM #18
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It depends on the growth stage and plant size but usually about 1/2 stregth every 2nd watering in veg then I switch to 2/3 rd stregth in flowering using the ProSoil Formula, again every 2nd watering.
I also use LiquidKarma, ammendment like vermicompost, kelp, bone meal, liquid kelp, I'm a horrible grower to be taking notes from, I'm one of those "I go me feel" growers.
I look to the plant to tell me how i'm doing, it's all there in the leaves...and some knowhow of course.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:06 PM #19
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What is 1/2 strength? I hear a lot of people refer to that. There are 3 levels of dosage on the back of PBP, which one are you basing your half off of? What yours lumens per ft/2 ? And lastly, what PH do you find works best for you?
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:56 PM #20
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Well in coco Nitrogen flows alot smoother so I go conservative at 10ml/gal in the veg phase, plus 5ml of calmag and 10ml of LK.
In the flowering phase I work my way towards 20-25ml which peaks at week 5 and works it's way back down as the coco acidifies and releases P and K, again plus 5ml calmag and 10ml LK.
The humates and the buffering capacity of the nutes and the coco make it so I don't test my ph at all, it is generally recommended to adjust to soil parameters around low 6's but if you test it you'll see they're already in that range @ those doses unless your water is very alkaline.

I'm running approx 70 watts/sq. foot
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