Your best yeild improving "tricks"!!??!

rave420 said:

During that time, the plant matures, prepares for reproduction and reaches it 's full potential.

Click to expand...

Actually, an extra 10 days doesn't do that. The extra 10 days gives it a root system the size of your fist instead of a golf ball. That extra root mass is what gives it the edge.

That's why, once a root system is established, vegging an extra 2 weeks does increase yield, but the huge difference between 4 days vegging and 10 days doesn't scale up the same way between 10 days and 2 weeks.

The 'maturation' should really be done before you even clip the cutting. All of my mums are over 5 months old and are fully mature, ready for flowering out.

Some of you know me from OG and AN forums. I have tested many methods, tricks, additives, various lighting schemes, passive rooms, CEA, dirt, rocks, sand, silica (diatomite) lava rock, FIM, SOG, SCROG, aero, e&f, top drip, vert, octos (hex), tiered, SWC, DWC, and my latest thread is an NFT SOG.

Let me just say one thing; before I go off on a tangent!

Everyone, regardless of how green your thumb is, or the genetics you prefer, there will always be a method that works best for YOU. We all do things a bit different from eachother. I had a collective co-op that was once a 16 room medical clinic. Every examination room was 8x9x8. Their was an office that was 11x13 that I used as my main room. I had an x-ray room that was about 14x14. Because there was x-ray, 400 amps was installed next to the existing 200amp service. (obviously ample power for the 26,800 watts in lamps. I only had 4 members and a partner on the building, so I used the rooms that no one was using. I removed some walls to make a couple 9x16x8 rooms, and I had another open space that may have been a nurses station and waiting room that was about 14x26x8 with 2 huge 5x10' skylights. We used almost every sq' of the place to conduct production, as well as many different tests. here's what we found:
Some plants yield more au natural with no topping or training.
Some plants had to be topped and scrogged to yield
Some needed a month minimum to veg and lst to yeild
But the 2 most successful grows were exact opposite from eachother...
A dirt pot mom room was flipped with 8 4'x4 mother plants under a suntwist with 3800 watts on a suntwist (3 600s and 2 1000s, all HPS hortis) moms were 6 months to 5 years old!
The second room had 6000w on rails under 3 4x8 tables with 198 4x4x3" cubes per tray flipped at 6" with a low yielding "pre '93 kabers or more commonly known as bubbakush. Both rooms were top drip fed w the same nute reg. On the bubba, 1 in 4 fan leaves were removed 2 weeks in and 2 weeks out. Both rooms were CEA sealed rooms. The 6kw room
Was air cooled but try air cooling a twist! Anyway, in the end both rooms yielded about the same 8 pounds. Yes there was 2x the lighting in the bk room, but it was done start to finish in 70 days. So if I veg for 8+ weeks and train, scrog vs veg 4 days with a shitload of plants and finish in 70 vs 130 days, I pull down more harvests in that year than I could ever do with big girls. Think of the power consumption vegging that long at 18-24 hours vs the 12 hour days and getting 5-6 crops a year vs 2-3.
And that is my trick to better yields. Grow twice as many crops with 3/4 less power consumption. Everyone bases yield off gpw. I measure gram per watt divided by time to get my numbers. If your only growing 1 crop a year, my math says trees are the way to go and should be done outside! But for indoor and not using that big HPS in the sky, going for as much weight on a yearly basis as possible, strength in numbers and short veg times will kick the crap out of long ass veg times with huge power savings to boot.

Sealed room aircooled gets more light to the plants as you can bring the light much closer with the right reflector.
Plants breathe co2 and produce o2. Why blow that and cold air out the room going passive?
I did a 10kw room with 3 6" inline fans and a 8-10k btu AC. My tank lasted 35 days.
Bigger reses mean less res changes, meaning less ferts and labor. In a sealed room nothing goes in, nothing is blown out. No odor or bugs.. Less co2 is needed, less AC is needed.
I can go on for days, but think this is enough to think about for now. I'm not going to get into internal flip flopping using half the lighting or cooling power needed to really be effecient but I think you get the picture!
Thanks for listening!

Hydro-Soil said:

Actually, an extra 10 days doesn't do that. The extra 10 days gives it a root system the size of your fist instead of a golf ball. That extra root mass is what gives it the edge.

That's why, once a root system is established, vegging an extra 2 weeks does increase yield, but the huge difference between 4 days vegging and 10 days doesn't scale up the same way between 10 days and 2 weeks.

The 'maturation' should really be done before you even clip the cutting. All of my mums are over 5 months old and are fully mature, ready for flowering out.

Click to expand...

Of course, you're right, but i think you misdunderstood me/i wasn't clear enough.

from an evolutionary point of view: Why does the plant grow the root-mass in the first place? To reproduce. The larger the root-mass the "better" it is for the plant, it makes it easier to compete with other plants around, plus, the more space it takes up the more nutrients it can take in. That's why they grow huge if you let them. The increased root-mass increases the chance that more offspring will survive (more seeds, more flowers, more yield).

That gets clearer if you have ever been into a cannabis field. The plants grow well spaced appart. And why is that? Because the root systems take up space underneath the soil. You can actually see that the bigger the plant, the more free space where nothing is growing is around.

I guess what i am saying is that there are two stages that need to be considered. There is the time from where the seed gets moist to where it grows it's first set of leaves. And then there is the rest. In the first stage, the seed uses all the stored energy within to "get itself sorted out and established". It essentially prepares for the task it has to do. Here, a lot within the seed happes. It comes back to life, the tap root sprouts, and here it has to do the first chalenge. Find the light. Once it found the light, the second stage begins soon. After the seed comes out the soil, it will anchor itself to the ground, turn the still whyte cotyledons towards the ligh, and use all remaining energy to produce chlorophyll and new growth. This is where the 2nd stage beginss. The seed used all it's stored energy, and is now producing it's own. Now it's off to the races. But still. the plant "knows" that it's chances of repoduction are slim to none, so it decides it has to grow first. A seedling could flower if it wanted to... It wouldn't have the root system to supply the nutrients, nor the cannoppy to provide enough photosynthetic juice. So it needs to grow. it does that up to a certain point, and then, depending on conditions, the plant will continue to grow untill the photoperiod signals the end of summer, or fower as fast as possible if it feels that it's ofspring might be threatened (that is why there are hermaphrodites, to produce viable seed for next season).

Either way, it's smart to allow the plant to establish and grow the desired root-size before flowering. I don't even look at what above the ground is, i decide how big my roots have to get before i flower them. Everybody is so concerned about leaves all the time. It is very important to look at roots too when it comes to the potential of a plant. I sometimes see tiny plants with HUUUUGE roots produce a HUUUUUGE amounts of flower and later growth in flower. After all, the plant will grow more leaves if it requires more energy to use the nutrients comming in from the roots. Having a large canoppy and a small root system will lead to deficencies. If the leaves convert more nutrients than the roots can bring in it starts to "disasemble itself", that is what we see as a defficency. Just trust me on this, i studied this shit.

I could go on and on and on, but i will stop now, as i have to take another toke. peace

how does the whole 21 veg, 21 flower, 21 veg work? Wouldn't the plants herm; buds wont start forming?

what if you did 20 veg, 20 flower, 20 veg?

Try 360 lighting or side lighting. imagine if the bottom/side branches of your plants got just as much light as the top. It's a method I always use and works great.Yield damn near doubles!

This seems extremely controversial but (my opinion) this always worked for me. I remove all Large fan leaves at week 6 in flower on my trees. It just seems that the light just belts down on those buds! I tested my results under exact conditions and the first run(without week 6 Large fan leaf removal) I got a 4 # 2 ounce. The second with the exact strain light and genetics, Yielded a 1/4 # more. Just a thought. It works for me and that's all that matters. I was reluctant to try it but I got up the balls and it payed off.