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New way of feminizing?

Guy Brush

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I am fairly optimistic that simple soap or dish cleaner would do no harm in moderate amounts. Concentration will be key. Sounds like some good ideas for a side by side test. Are we on the right path, Chimera? :kitty:
 

MJPassion

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Yall really think it's as simple as a wetting agent?
I'm curious as to the thoughts behind this idea?

Plants aren't naturally hydrophobic & foliar feeds are uptaken very quickly... Like within minutes! So the wetting agent idea kinda has me stumped.
Also, if considering a wetting agent, wouldn't Aloe be one of the easiest to source?

I'm listening though.

I've got one idea, based on a blog I've been reading.
In the blog, they keep using acids mixed w their foliars to increase the uptake of the foliar fed minerals.

Are you folks aware that foliar feeding can be 12X more efficient that feeding through the roots?
These acids are the "keys" that open the doors.
 
Yall really think it's as simple as a wetting agent?
I'm curious as to the thoughtsthoughtsthis idea?

Plants aren't naturally hydrophobic & foliar feeds are uptaken very quickly... Like within minutes! So the wetting agent idea kinda has me stumped.

I'm listening though.
The plant's waxy cuticle is quite hydrophobic and covers most of the upper leaves, shoots and stems. This, combined with fine microscopic hairs, is designed to waterproof the plant and prevent desiccation. A wetting agent breaks the surface tension so that droplets spread out readily instead of just rolling off. Using a surfactant does risk damaging the cuticle though.
 

djonkoman

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no idea if the improved STS the OP is about is due to a wetting agent, but regardless I do think a wetting agent could be an improvement. even if it's just the ease of application(similar to adding flour to pollen, it doesn't increase the activity of the pollen as far as I know, but makes it much easier to handle, doesn't fly everywhere with just 1 breath).

btw, why are you saying plants aren't hydrophobic? the surface of leaves definitely is, you can see the raindrops rolling off in the rain, I also notice it while applying STS with a pipette. I have to do a bit of effort to get the drop balancing on a bud, and not make it too big, or it'll just roll off.

I think with a wetting agent I could apply it quicker, easier and have better coverage of the buds.

edit:
theory about the improved way of feminizing, maybe it's STS+GA3? I have to look into it some more, but on a quick search I found mentions that GA3 is involved in pollenproduction(quickly read trough the abstract of a paper looking at GA3-insensitive mutants in rice, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2217639/) also, I've read about it here as alternatrive feminizing spray, so possibly combining it with sts yields better results as either alone? sts to block female expression, GA3 to stimulate male expression, leading to more viable pollen(and maybe better opening flowers) as sts alone?
 
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beta

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Fulvic acid, maybe? I'm not sure if chelation would help the absorption of STS or CS, but they are metals...
 

djonkoman

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Fulvic acid, maybe? I'm not sure if chelation would help the absorption of STS or CS, but they are metals...

I would think the complex with thiosulphate already fulfills that function, so that doesn't sound likely to me.
 

The_Skunkist

~~ Auto Ninja ~~
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what kind of info are you looking for?

I have all I wanted I think, I have just to re-check the dilution rates a little bit . And then I will go with experimentation after next crop, that's the best school :) .
Thanks anyway !
:tiphat:
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
however, my issue is that I now have 2 nice-looking, fully reversed plants, full of balls and not a single female flower, but the balls don't contain any pollen...
Was following the STS thread quoted and ran across this, from Sam...
SamKingofSkunk said:
I saw quite a few that were functionally sterile meaning they did not drop pollen, even if they made it. Often the pollen was kind of sticky and if you used a q-tip you could get pollen enough to effect pollination. Others you just need to alter the ratios of the STS spray ingredients or the frequency or numbers of the applications to get useable pollen.
And some will not make male flowers or make any pollen.
Don't give up, try variations.
-SamS
And this, from Charles-Scott...
Charles-scott said:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Here I grabbed this from another thread I commented on
We have had no issues with ECSD at all in Canada or my friends in Spain .
My Spanish friends use her on a regular Basis , you just need to follow up with a 2nd treatment , often it can seem like strains are not producing pollen , however the reversed flower clusters are too tight to let out the pollen .
This is when you cut all the flower cluster away from as much stem as possible than get a tight sealing container place the clusters in paper towel than pour silica jell packages for new leather items or just the crystal they sell to dry out cars and seal it .
This will dry the clusters quickly than put the flowers in a pollinator and tumble when they are dry and you will be shocked at the pollen even the toughest reversing strain will produce .


SPGI looks like there is nothing in the tiny tight flowers yet it produces volumes of pollen .
There is a french company that makes a very small SS drummed version of the pollinator that is ideal for this use .
https://www.pollenextractor.com/Shop/en/

You need to let the reversed flowers fully mature cut dry removing as much stock as you can when you place the Clusters in the drum throw a few coins in with them .

We have also found that with some strains it helps to follow up with a CS treatment we found that in tests that using the STS stock solution followed up with high PPM CS produced a higher volume of pollen .
I find that 40% of reversed plants will not produce usable amounts of pollen with out the use of the pollinator to collect it .
We hand pollinate with soft make up brushes , we also mix pollen with Corn starch as a carrier to make it go further protect it when freezing and it helps mark the plant as to where we have brushed the pollen on .
The SPGI for example would not pollinate anything it went very weird with tiny little flowers that looked like a flop but when dried and put in the pollinator it produced commercially viable levels of pollen .
I suspect that you #1 may not have waited long enough to get pollen developed #2 that the pollen was there but need to be extracted or a little of both .
I have reversed plants indoors and outdoors on a larger scale with a good luck , I have a small hoop now that I am reversing a number of plants in , I have not really encountered a plant that I could not get some pollen from , We recently grew out 700 female seeds we did not encounter a single hermie we did encounter three full on males .
Charles
[/FONT]


So, don't give up hope and keep trying. :)Save
 

MJPassion

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Fulvic acid, maybe? I'm not sure if chelation would help the absorption of STS or CS, but they are metals...

I would think the complex with thiosulphate already fulfills that function, so that doesn't sound likely to me.

I'm not so sure, djonkman.
I don't think thiosulphate is a chelating agent so not so sure that humic or fulvic acid wouldn't help with the absorption of STS.

But...

Maybe a surfactant is the answer Chi was eluding to. The knowledge, however, does not fall into the proprietary category, if this is the case, as it has been passed freely for the world to see.
 

Guy Brush

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[In most situations, it might be best to remove the plant from the grow room for spraying, covering the top of the pot with plastic to prevent watering the roots with the solution.

Why protect the roots? And you only spray the shoots, not the leaves?
 
Why protect the roots? And you only spray the shoots, not the leaves?
The STS can cause considerable damage to the leaves and cause overall stunting in the plant, so applying it only where necessary minimizes these undesirable effects. Eythene is a plant hormone with numerous important functions within the plant, and blocking it via root application would have an overall detrimental effect on the plant.

I have sprayed just the top bud of one branch of a plant four weeks into flower and had it produce viable male flowers and pollen about 10 days later. This effect moved down that branch slowly and after about three to four weeks there were a some flowers about 12-18 inches down from the sprayed bud.

Cheers :)
 

Guy Brush

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ICMag Donor
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The STS can cause considerable damage to the leaves and cause overall stunting in the plant, so applying it only where necessary minimizes these undesirable effects. Eythene is a plant hormone with numerous important functions within the plant, and blocking it via root application would have an overall detrimental effect on the plant.

I have sprayed just the top bud of one branch of a plant four weeks into flower and had it produce viable male flowers and pollen about 10 days later. This effect moved down that branch slowly and after about three to four weeks there were a some flowers about 12-18 inches down from the sprayed bud.

Cheers :)

Very interesting! How does it go together with the use of a wetting agent? Do you use any? I was just about to believe it's cool to wet the whole plant like there's no tomorrow.
 

Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
There is technique to reverse plant whithouth any chems and STS...

but you need to answer 3 questions to understand what you wish to achive and why it happends..

1.Where in a plant a flowering hormone develops??

2.In what time this hormone develops??

3.What is happening if we remove this hormone in right time??


If you know answer on this questions than you will know to reverse your plants
whithouth STS and other chems and this kind of produced fem seeds are much
more stabile than those produced with STS.
 

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
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Veteran
There is technique to reverse plant whithouth any chems and STS...

but you need to answer 3 questions to understand what you wish to achive and why it happends..

1.Where in a plant a flowering hormone develops??

2.In what time this hormone develops??

3.What is happening if we remove this hormone in right time??


If you know answer on this questions than you will know to reverse your plants
whithouth STS and other chems and this kind of produced fem seeds are much
more stabile than those produced with STS.

Sounds intriguing Dog Star!
Do you by any chance know the answer to these question and are you willing to share your knowledge ?

F.Ex. how would you remove the hormone at the right time in a living plant without chemicals? This is exactly what CS does if I#m not mistaken ?

cheers,
CC
 
There is technique to reverse plant whithouth any chems and STS...

but you need to answer 3 questions to understand what you wish to achive and why it happends..

1.Where in a plant a flowering hormone develops??

2.In what time this hormone develops??

3.What is happening if we remove this hormone in right time??


If you know answer on this questions than you will know to reverse your plants
whithouth STS and other chems and this kind of produced fem seeds are much
more stabile than those produced with STS.
1. The elusive Florigen, which is produced in the leaves and signals the apical meristem to flower via an unknown mechanism.

2. Flowering in short-day plants is triggered when the plant experiences a number of successive long nights without light interruption.

3. Remove the leaves just before flowering is triggered?

Please explain how this will induce a female plant to make male flowers?

Regarding the stability of plants reversed using chemicals,
crosses made from females reversed using chemicals (silver, GA3 etc) will inherit the same genetic stability of the parents. It is no different than crossing a male with a female.

 
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