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Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Ok, below is a description of leaf spot and I have had it the last 2 years. For the life of me I cant figure out why more Guerrillas have not had it. It would not be a disease that back yard growers deal with primarily guerillas. I am now a self ordained expert but there is ZERO info (little bit of an exaggeration) on this web site.

I am looking for true anecdotal experience because this disease makes mold look like a little girl of a MJ problem. It can NOT be cured and depending on how bad it hits it will defoliate your whole crop. It also over-winters so you can have it for years at one location.

Looking for old or new guerillas that have dealt with this disease I just want to hear how you managed it because that’s all you can do “manage it” not cure it? My understanding is the only way to deal with it is through preventive measures.

It is impossible for a guerrilla to remove all ground litter. Sure you can do it around your plants but not over 5 acres or more of land and the spores are passed through the air so cleaning up around your plants will only help so much. I don’t want to loose some of my favorite spots so I am looking for real life anecdotes of how other guerillas handled this if there is any.

Come on fellow guerrillas help a brother out its weird that this disease cannot be found via the sites search engine I really feel like others have had this.

HOW DID YOU FIX THE PROBLEM????

1. Move to different site? (It's in 4 plots at 4 different locations for 2 years over more than a 10 square mile radius so moving wont help me anyways.)

2. Got lucky had a dry year? ( I understand but what about next year or the next?)





BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT

Symptoms: Infected plants have brown or black water-soaked spots on the foliage, sometimes with a yellow halo, usually uniform in size. The spots enlarge and will run together under wet conditions. Under dry conditions the spots have a speckled appearance. As spots become more numerous, entire leaves may yellow, wither and drop. Members of the Prunus family (cherry, plum, almond, apricot, peach) are particularly susceptible. The fruit may appear spotted or have sunken brown areas. Bacterial leaf spot will also attack tomatoes, peppers and cabbage family crops in vegetable gardens.

Bacterial leaf spot is most active when there is plenty of moisture and warm temperatures. During the summer months, especially if plants are watered by overhead sprinklers, sufficient moisture may be present for infection when the bacteria are splashed or blown on to leaves. Wind and rain transmit the bacteria to plants.

This disease overwinters in the soil around infected plants as well as on garden debris and seeds. The disease will also remain in the twig cankers, leaves, stems and fruit of infected trees.

Control: Choose resistant varieties if possible. Keep the soil under the tree clean and rake up fallen fruit. Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut. Use a thick layer of mulch to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. The mulch will prevent the fungus spores from splashing back up onto the leaves. Water in the early morning hours (avoiding overhead watering if possible) to give the plants time to dry out during the day. Avoid overwatering.

There is no cure for plants infected with bacterial leaf spot. Apply copper-based fungicides weekly at first sign of disease to prevent its spread. This organic fungicide will not kill leaf spot, but prevents the fungus spores from germinating. Applications of Fire Blight Spray will also control the disease. Use as a preventive treatment or apply at first sign of water soaked leaves.


Starts out looking quite tame and nothing to worry about.
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A week or so later
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Then its a train wreck in 3-4 weeks
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.
 

Cannasseur

Member
Well look at that, I must've simultaneously made my post in my thread.

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After looking a bit more into the subject, I too suspect that I'm dealing with the culprit known as Bacterial leaf spot.

From what I can see, the surrounding flora seems to have a huge effect on their infection. Those of our plants surrounded directly by willows seem the least affected, whereas those located adjacent to Prunus (Cherry) and Crataegus (Hawthorn) are completely devoured by the effects of the infection.
 

wiklund

Member
Hi!

I have the the exact the same problem with my outdoor plant. Have searched for a cure for about two years now but havent found it yet. Please help us!:wallbash:
 
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ghost of sage

Active member
here it is

here it is

I had that shit last year and got on it late after the plants were already flowering and it would kill the bud turn it brown and it would crumble and fall to dust.i started spraying with green cure and it stopped it but i was to late fro those plants.I took some stronger fungicide and sprayed all the ground around the plants heavily and this year i have it in the same place but it is very mild and i started with the greencure right away and it has stopped it for me.That shit ruined my plants last year!I watched it and didn't realize it was a fungus and it totally destroyed 3 plants that should have yeilded 3 pounds and instead i salvaged 1/2 lb.This is 2 pics from last year!
 

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D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
Yes,yes, hamstring and ghost of sage, i got it in one site and its the same site it started in last year. I just got back from the site and its there.

It will destroy the crop and ive got to find something to kill it. Ive got 45 days till harvest so im looking hard at short acting systemic fungicides such as eagle 20, actigaurd and others. I hate using them and it scares me but its my view that this stuff is a hard kill and the whole friggin crop will die left untreated. I cant scrape up nothing or keep anything clean out in the middle of knowwhere so none of these preventatvie measures mean diddly to me. Every site i have is surrounded by wild cherries and hawthorns.

Guys, i figure we have 10 days to resolve this or hunt for somebody to buy weed from this winter. Im talking to my county extension agent( my tomatoes) and scanning the world wide web for answers: ill keep you posted
 

Cannasseur

Member
From the "Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management."

Diseases caused by bacteria

Bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis subsp. michiganensis), bacterial speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato) and bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) are all quite common and are all managed the same way.
Canker is most common on tomato but can occur on pepper as well. The first symptoms may include wilting, browning at the margin of the leaflet, and leaflet curling. Later symptoms include brown stem cankers that frequently crack open, and spots on the fruit. The fruit lesions have a dark brown center surrounded by a white ring, with a characteristic “birds-eye” appearance View photo 4.10.

Speck is found only on tomato. Small black lesions (1/8 inch) with a yellow halo appear on leaves, and black raised lesions or dots appear on fruit View photo 4.11.

Spot occurs on both tomato and pepper. Symptoms can appear on leaves, stems, and fruit View photo 4.12. Lesions begin as water-soaked spots that become brown and may have an irregular shape View photo 4.13. Infected leaves eventually turn yellow and drop off the plant.

Cultural Control:

1. Plant disease-free seed. Hot water seed treatment at 122°F for 25 minutes is recommended for tomato seed. For pepper seed, hot water treatment at 125°F for 30 minutes is recommended. Strictly follow time and temperature recommendations to minimize damage to seed germination and vigor. Hot water treatment can also eliminate fungal pathogens on the seed. Chlorine treatment of seed is also effective and may be permitted, check with the certification agent. Use one part household bleach to 4 parts water plus a half teaspoon of surfactant per gallon of solution, agitate seed for one minute, then rinse in running water for 5 minutes. Dry seed thoroughly.
2. Pepper varieties that are resistant to bacterial spot are available (see Cornell 2004) .
3. If growing and using transplants, all greenhouse materials should be cleaned and sterilized prior to use. The spread of bacterial diseases in the greenhouse is common.
4. If trellising or caging tomatoes, stakes and cages should either be new or cleaned and disinfected. Sodium hypochlorite at 0.5% (12x dilution of household bleach) is effective, and must be followed by rinsing, and proper disposal of solution. Hydrogen peroxide is also permitted.
5. If pruning tomatoes, disinfect tools or gloves regularly to minimize spread of bacteria from infected plants.
6. Use a 3-year crop rotation away from tomato and pepper.
7. Because bacterial diseases can spread by splashing water, avoid overhead irrigation.
8. Avoid working in the crop when it is wet.
9. Compost may contain organisms that are antagonistic to the pathogen.

Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Copper compounds. Recent studies showed 2 fair and 1 poor result.

Let us all be diligent in our search for answers!
 

ghost of sage

Active member
I cannot remember the name of the fungicide I treated the ground with but it was a bad ass one that was not for edibles.i just kept it off the plants and used the greencure heavy and it froze it.This year i didn't see any sign of it until a week ago and it was mild and i sprayed right away with a double dose of the greencure and it has stopped where it was.The woods were also burned off this winter so that could have done it too instead of the fungicide i used.
 

ghost of sage

Active member
yes

yes

Yes,yes, hamstring and ghost of sage, i got it in one site and its the same site it started in last year. I just got back from the site and its there.

It will destroy the crop and ive got to find something to kill it. Ive got 45 days till harvest so im looking hard at short acting systemic fungicides such as eagle 20, actigaurd and others. I hate using them and it scares me but its my view that this stuff is a hard kill and the whole friggin crop will die left untreated. I cant scrape up nothing or keep anything clean out in the middle of knowwhere so none of these preventatvie measures mean diddly to me. Every site i have is surrounded by wild cherries and hawthorns.

Guys, i figure we have 10 days to resolve this or hunt for somebody to buy weed from this winter. Im talking to my county extension agent( my tomatoes) and scanning the world wide web for answers: ill keep you posted


Plus where I am located I need all the damn ground clutter that I can get for camo to cover where I have been digging so I have to let all of it stay!
 

ghost of sage

Active member
Same spot!!

Same spot!!

this is this year same spot before I used the greencure.You can see it is very scattered this year on the plant i really started to just let it go but that is what I did last year.I sprayed the day after this picture and it looks good now but it started alot worse last year right off the bat!
 

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D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
Hey ghost, hamstring, cannasuer or wickland, any of u guys try the serenade garden spray?

Im headed to lowes as we speak so ill be trying it. It says its organic and fruits can be taken the next day. Ill be treated by supper time.

Im worried about treatments and the heat. Every damn day its nearly 100.
 

Cannasseur

Member
It's not conclusive, but I've seen a couple articles indicating that compost teas can be affective in reduction of Leaf Spot. Just puttin' it out there as food for thought.

Toker, I have not used that product myself but the active ingredient is bacillus subtillis which seems to have some effect as a suppressant.

Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713 is a widespread bacterium found in soil, water, and air. Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713 controls the growth of certain harmful bacteria and fungi, presumably by competing for nutrients, growth sites on plants, and by directly colonizing and attaching to fungal pathogens.
# Use Sites, Target Pests, and Application Methods

* Use Sites: B. subtilis strain QST 713 is approved for use on a wide variety of food crops, including cherries, cucurbits, grapes, leafy vegetables, peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, and walnuts.


* Target Pests: Fungi and bacteria that cause scab, powdery mildew, sour rot, downy mildew, and early leaf spot, early blight, late blight, bacterial spot, and walnut blight diseases.


* Application Methods: B. subtilis strain QST 713 is sold as a powder that is mixed with water and sprayed on foliage using ground equipment. The number and timing of applications vary with crop and level of infestation.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Man thanks guys for the responses. First of all I used green cure last year and I think I was able to save roughly 75% of my plants but they had less leaves and therefore less yield I probably got 3/4 - 1/2 the yield I normally would have had.

The bad news is 20/20 hindsight I should have known if conditions were right it would be worse this year because it winters over. That’s what happened to me I let myself believe that because of a dry spring I was in the clear.

Last thing is that from what I have read the spores release early-mid spring and don’t show any signs until around August 1st and that rings true in my case.

Ghost of sage
Man brother very very close to what I did. Last year I sprayed 3/4 strength Green Cure on my plants then I doubled the dosage and sprayed on the ground. It seemed to help. This year I knew what it was right away but and I want to make this clear to all of the guerillas who are interested. "It don’t mean shit because they get hit by the spores in the spring and it’s already in the plant."

Ghost of Sage
You hit the nail on the head. If I heard you right did you spray as soon as you planted or when you saw the first sign??
From what I read it has to be preventive so next year I will go with a 2 in one fungicide and insect spray until they start budding then go with the Green Cure upon budding.
Also it sounds like from your experience you can use your grow site again. Thanks much just the type of real life experience I was looking for.

Cannasseur
I have read that same article and much thanks for posting it. To highlight a few things disease free seed was not a problem for me it was all new seed and just cleaning up the ground around the plants wont get rid of it. This shit was on every single bit of native vegetation in my area trees, nettles, especially the grasses. Every year they die back and form the perfect breeding ground.

Wiklund
Good luck to you brother I hope you can harvest. It all depends on how hard it hits there is no cure for it just management. I recommend 3/4 dosage of green cure sprayed on the plants.

DS Toker
I read a million articles and many did point to "Liquid Copper" but not sure how safe this stuff is and where to get it. I hope it helps but unless I am wrong and I hope I am there is no cure just management. The spots will widen and leaves will fall but if you are close to harvest you could make it.
PLEASE update us on how it goes sounds like we are breaking new ground or at least shining a light on it.

Ok fellow Guerillas I will mention one last thing since they said no cure just management and because my GHS WW got hit so hard (large plants and leaves) I decided to try some more 20-20-20 to see if I could get new vegetative growth to replace old.

I wouldn’t have done this on early flowering varieties but the WW had only pre-flowers a week ago. I have no actual research that says this will work actually quite the opposite everything I read said to lay off the nitrogen because it attacks the new leaves the worst but i had nothing to loose. I will let you know in another week if this was worth the effort.
 

Cannasseur

Member
I was reading an article on Bacillus subtillis and came across this...

According to an Agraquest sales representative, in the Serenade® product it is the lipopeptide activity that gives disease control. Any living B. subtilis cells in this product have only a minor effect (Cline 2004).



Edit:
From the sounds of things I would definitely recommend wearing some sort of PPE (personal protective equipment) when applying any sort of Copper based product.

Effect on human health:
Acute toxicity. The oral LD50 of copper sulfate is 472 mg/kg in rats. Toxic response in humans has been observed at 11 mg/kg. Ingestion of copper sulfate is often not toxic because vomiting is automatically triggered by its irritating effect on the gastrointestinal tract. Symptoms are severe, however, if copper sulfate is retained in the stomach, as in the unconscious victim. Injury to the brain, liver, kidneys, and stomach and intestinal linings may occur in copper sulfate poisoning. Copper sulfate can be corrosive to the skin and eyes. It is readily absorbed through the skin and can produce a burning pain, as well as the other symptoms of poisoning resulting from ingestion. Skin contact may result in itching or eczema. It is a skin sensitizer and can cause allergic reactions in some individuals. Eye contact with this material can cause conjunctivitis, inflammation of the eyelid lining, cornea tissue deterioration, and clouding of the cornea (Extoxnet 1996).

As far as persistence...

Copper will generally remain on leaf surfaces for 1-2 weeks, or until it is washed off by rain or overhead irrigation.

Lets stay safe here guys!
 

Paddi

GanjaGrower
Veteran
In -09 I had leaf septoria. Well, it "only" attacked the leafs, but damn I hated to see those sick girls.

I havent done anything to solve the problem, but fortunately I havent seen it so far this year.
Well, I do take away all dead plant-materials - that is a must.
If you want to reuse dead plantmaterials, you have to make real compost where the material "burns".


I read about the sickness in the book you see here. Helpful book for outdoor-growers I would say.


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P :smoke:
 

biteme

Member
mr. hamstring made an important statement near the end of his post where he said "no cure, just management" which seems to be a problem with most of the organic sprays. i use serenade, green cure and another product called daconyl to take care of mold, mildew and assorted fungi and as a rule, the 3 sprays are alternated with each getting turns.

i never saw mold on a mj plant until about 6 years ago when global warming patterns moved in and since then all of my gardening methods are now in the flux of change. the big lesson i have learned is that most of these organics are of little use once you have the problem but they work great if you hit the plants early and hard and your interest is in prevention.

i am not sure what you were calling this attack, i will reread, but it sure looks like some nasty crud known as septoria leaf spot imo. if it is not a major outbreak, it usually just hurts yield and does not kill the plant. but you still want to get rid of it and often you may have to move your garden because it will winter in the soil.
peace-biteme
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Paddi
Sweet book and even better dedication. Yeah, that looks very helpful and it would have helped last year it took me a few weeks and someone here diagnosed it for me through a similar resource.

Only thing I can say that is a little wrong is that doesn’t only attack the bottom leaves it attacks every single leaf. The worst ones are the small ones near the flowers.

Thanks for sharing I think that will help many guerrillas in the future too bad that once you have diagnosed it its too late it has been infected for several months already. Like I said before give me mold any day at least I can treat it once I identify it.

Much appreciated this thread is to inform that’s why the title has “Leaf Spot” in it so it can be found using a search and your book will help all that make it to this thread in the future.
 

Cannasseur

Member
Paddi, I have to say I will DEFINITELY be purchasing my own copy of that book..

Does it contain an excerpt on "Bacterial Leaf Spot" aswell?
 

D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
hamsting, im so new into flower on so many plants,(WW) i would basically be spraying only leaves. The buds really arent on the plant yet so they wouldnt have the stuff on them, but if i can take off the leaves that are infected and spray the healthy ones, im hoping to knock it back to the point that it doesnt decimate my yeild.

Since the stuff isnt systemic then everything should be alright. The local nursury,
( they carry it), told me that its safe to use on garden vegetables.
 

LazLo

Member
Timely thread. Bummer no cure, only treatment. 1 Texada Timewarp had half the leaves dead or dying. Another TT was far less affected.

Glad I had the Greencure with me today when I visited site after a week. Sprayed all girls with it and liquid Sevin. Will take the fungicide next trip.

Would Mycostop have any effect?

Poor little girl missing her bottom leaves and just starting to flower


C99 unaffected so far



Paddi

Any chance a sticky could be made from those pages?
 

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