SWC (shallow water culture system)

2.pumps circulate mix...3rd pump goes to chiller....never used a chiller...they have always grown just fine....just curious to see if there is any difference in the end with yeild...pots sit right in the water/nute mix....1" deep when filled and add when its down to 1/2 in....
That is the best for accurate feeding since there is no 'remote' res....if I set res at say 600ppm and a full cycle later the mix is still 600ppm, I am spot on...if numbers are higher, I am giving them too much and if numbers are lower, not giving enuf....hydro feeding 101.....with other hydro systems it harder to monitor but not impossible...DWC has to have the cells checked, drip systems are VERY hard to tune perfectly, the same for spray systems....what my ppm meter reads is what the plants are sitting in....no chance of over (or under) feeding if u actually use your meter to determine their intake....almost foolproof providing ur pH is within acceptable range....with over feeding probably being the biggest mistake newer growers make, this system will eleiminate ALL feeding issues for even the first time grower...YT

9 days into flower..

9 days into flower..

For those following my SWC system with White Widow extm....pics are from day 9 into flower....just starting to get some white hairs (pistils)....plants are an average of 19 in tall and resin already forming....WWx sets the bar for resin coverage...see some pics earlier in thread from my last crop....they will get about another 5-7 in taller with the finish of stretch and the last of bud creep....bud creep is what I call the elongation of the buds while completely forming...not part of the 'stretch' your first cpl weeks after 12/12 switch....they are feeding steadily on 525ppm of Dyna bloom...they have been at that rate for about 5 days now...these have NEVER needed any more than about 600ppms during heavy flowering....dyna bloom only with a couple drops of superthrive....I do add sm-90 for res conditioning and health...no need for any flufth addatives that corp manufacturers SAY u need for good buds (all BS) single use quality nute is all u need...35 yrs of growing proved that to me....although, I do highly recommend the superthrie....it has vitamins that helps the plants with the metabolism of nutes...doesn't feed ur plants but makes it easier for them to feed....I will.continue to post more pics as the plants evolve...regards, YT

Very cool love the simplicity! So u put lava in the bottom of the pots and they just kinda wick the water up? Is the whole thing flat or angled?

It is flat...that way they all are in the same depth...constant circulation...lava rock in bottom of containers make for a VERY airy, open spaces btwn the water and medium...not too concerned about wicking...just enuf vermiculite in the mix to keep it damp....roots rifle right out the container holes into the water....at that point u have ur SWC....roots right in the water as with a DWC but only with 1/2 to 1" of water.....its a beautiful thing....this SWC system is FAR MORE resistant to root problems...usually by the time u need to add water, root masses have their backs breaking the water surface...TOO, those pumps rooster tailing water around create massive DO in that shallow water....really is a fool proof method....just finished helping an old friend get going using this set up via emails and phone calls....the first crop he EVER did looked like it was from a seasoned grower....it REALLY doesnt get any easier and the only pit falls are total neglect....just keep btwn .5" and 1" of water/nute mix...monitor ur pH and ppm numbers and u get a perfect crop, EVERYTIME...YT

Cpl more pics....taken earlier today (sat)....beginning of day 12 into switch...plants btwn 18 and 21 inches...one pic shows how i have them topped....my space is 4ft by 5ft with 12 plants...prune them to get 4-6 tops per plant...these white widow extm phenos give me right about 32-35 oz..not know as a super yeilder but the quality genetics is insane....still not a bad yeild for 20sq ft...got them from Elephantos in Amsterdam...they have the best genetics I have experienced...not a lot of strains but all quality...friend has their Afghan and their lemon haze...both have SICK quality...YT

Thanks much! How about water leaking from the pump spray?

Non leaks from spray...they are shooting water UNDER the res cover....any splashing just hits the underside surface of that res cover... pics earlier in thread of pumps.....I use 2 pumps only because if one were to fail, there is no immediate panic or concern...just pick up another next time at home depot....the beckett pumps have shallow water sensors...even if i let it go dry for some crazy reason, they just shut off...this can be modified for something as small as 2x2ft or larger than mine....can use whatever qty of plants u like to deal with...just cut your res cover to accomodate ur needs...this has many decades of tweaking and thought in it...as simple as it is, I challenge anyone to find something that would improve it...not going to happen..lol...regards, YT

subbed. i love the simplicity of it all. props to u sir

yankeetransplnt said:

2.pumps circulate mix...3rd pump goes to chiller....never used a chiller...they have always grown just fine....just curious to see if there is any difference in the end with yeild...pots sit right in the water/nute mix....1" deep when filled and add when its down to 1/2 in....
That is the best for accurate feeding since there is no 'remote' res....if I set res at say 600ppm and a full cycle later the mix is still 600ppm, I am spot on...if numbers are higher, I am giving them too much and if numbers are lower, not giving enuf....hydro feeding 101.....with other hydro systems it harder to monitor but not impossible...DWC has to have the cells checked, drip systems are VERY hard to tune perfectly, the same for spray systems....what my ppm meter reads is what the plants are sitting in....no chance of over (or under) feeding if u actually use your meter to determine their intake....almost foolproof providing ur pH is within acceptable range....with over feeding probably being the biggest mistake newer growers make, this system will eleiminate ALL feeding issues for even the first time grower...YT

Click to expand...

I know I read your first thread but can not find it now. will you put up a link or the threads title? the mor I look at this, the more I see a lot more head room available.

Hey snook....I went back thru my old threads and they were really just pics of buds....not until some showed interest did I start describing the set up, AND it is really all contained in this thread...it is so simple, thats really all it took....after reading this thread from the beginning, there really isnt much to add....as far as pics of buds and full garden pics, I will continue to add to this as they progress...
I am more than willing to answer any and all questions you might have..I would love to see some others use this system...it has decades of experience in it and for a simplistic set up, it has EVERYTHING required from a technical standpoint....stay tuned for updates and pics...regards, YT

Note about feeding programs....over the years, THE BIGGEST issue I have seen with new growers, and even more experienced ones, is their feeding program...consider this, u start a garden such as a nice drip system or ebb and flow.....hydroton medium, timers, proper lighting, the works....your plants are put into flower and they are off to the races...u have to have a remote res which is dripping or ebbing your plants....how do you REALLY know what levels of nutrients your plants require at any given week....that stretch period increases their needs quickly...the best u can do is guess or use generic 'charts' someone else made for their garden....every grower NEEDS to learn how to read your plants and recognize deficiencies and excessive feeding signs...knowing how to read your plants is a must to become.a.good grower, BUT, why wait until your plants show signs of over or under feeding to react....One key to a great crop is to NEVER BREAK the momentum of the flowering process...
This system does not have a 'remote' res....your plants sit in the res and feed directly from it....when u set ur ec/ppm numbers, a full day later u can check the numbers again...if your numbers are the same (even though half the water is gone) your are 100% spot on with your feeding levels....if ur numbers are lower, they require more than what u had set them at, AND if ur numbers are higher, they are not using all that u set them at and u need to back off....that is hydroponics feeding 101....as they get bigger they of course would need more nutes and u can easily see that using ur meter during ANY point of growth....AHHHH, how perfect is that...u always know right down to a few ppms EXACTLY how ur plants are feeding...It is that simple and virtually foolproof providing u have a meter and its calibrated....ALL your concerns about ur feeding program are solved...
This cannot be accomplished with a remote res set up...that takes time, experience and u will still never be able to tune it perfectly because u just cant tell how much of ur mix they actually require and are using...ANYONE, can have a perfect garden the first time around using this system...that is of course u have proper equipment, set up, exhaust, etc....You cant hang a flashlight from the ceiling and fill your containers with dirt from your backyard....U get the point...keep ur pH in line with this set up and I guarantee a successful crop....YT

One last addition to what I just discussed about feeding programs with this system....I should have mentioned it there but dont think about because I dont have to do it.....
FLUSHING...I NEVER have a need to flush....periodically, OR, the 2 weeks prior to harvest flush that most do.....because, the feeding program is so accurate, there is no need to....2 weeks prior to harvest, I simply reduce my nute levels in half...since they are perfectly tuned, they will start to yellow in a weeks time because they are now deficient...the last week I use no nutes to complete the process...4 days prior to harvest I stop watering completely and by harvest time the res is dry, the plants have a perfect yellowing and clean up is easy....ALSO, The last 2 weeks get my coconut flower sugar mix at 2 tbsp per 5 gals and then their last watering (water and no nutes) 5 days prior to harvest, I dump a half cup of the coconut sugar mix into the res...AGAIN, the res will be dry by harvest and that coconut mix add some serious weight and tightness to the buds...similar to what soil growers use molasses for but for some reason the coconut flower sugar works wonders...I have tried a dozen or so home mixes and a few commercial mixed such as Botanicare Sweet, and NOTHING works as well as this...
Just a unrefined sugar made from the coconut tree flowers...granular, brown colored stuff, not refined crystal sugars...without it, usually an oz is pushed into a a qt mason jar where using it, an oz is dropped into the jar..this strain easily gets 15% weight increase and density using it....late:30....gotta twist and fire up a sleeping pill and crash...lol...YT

The coconut flower sugar mix that you mention, is it the same thing as coconut palm sugar? Where do you get it at? I wanna try it in my rdwc and I´m curious about how it affects the total ppms, any ideas on that?

thanks, man

Made a mistake about not mentioning that it is made by mixing 3:1 water to the sugar....I use a quart bottle from old nutes....warm water to disolve it a tbsp of lemon juice helps buffer the.ph but not really necessary if u keep ur pH monitorex properly....I read what I posted and looks like i use it raw from the bag...sorry ppl.....pic attached of brand I buy at my local grocery store.....made from the coconut palm FLOWERS.....Actually more eco friendly using the palm flowers over cane....YT

Since its not a mineral, it does not raise up ppm #'s....EVEN if it did, dont forget that u use it at the end of flowering when ur nutes are reduced or even deleted.....I find NO NEED to add any prior to the last 2 weeks of flower (maybe the last 2.5 weeks)...I tried it earlier on and found no benefits...it also maintains a nice watery viscosity...I.dont see it gumming up lines or drip fittings as molasses can do....I ended up trying it by chance when they were out of the sucranat I was looking for and it worked better than EVERYTHING I ever tried...I will take a 15%+ yield increase everytime....YT

Cpl pics of current White Widow Extm crop....5 more days of flowering on them since last pics...these pics beginning day 14 of switch...another 5-6" taller since pics from day 9...they also have had a selective defoliation since then....gotta keep that 'oh so important' light penetrating to all potential bud sights...they are now btwn 20 and 25" tall...they will fill this space perfect when fully flowered...no crowding but no wasted space, no 'shake' buds....
They have been feeding pretty heavy the later of the main stretch...eating 570ppm without a 10ppm deviation....stretch needs to be fed...they should drop slightly then go up another 75ppm for heavy flowering....if it sounds like I'm splitting hair, I'm not, they just tell u exactly how much they are using, so why not go with it...keep them tuned in to the best of abilities and they thrive....pretty boring point in a garden now from a growers stand point...just add water and monitor numbers till they are done...I'll take boring all day long...that says everything is fine..YT

hey thanks for the answer on the ppm:s. i find it all very interesting. i guess the real question would be if the 15% increase in weight equals 15% more smoke/high. And how about the taste, any difference there?

coconut flower suger

coconut flower suger

Man, I got lucky!



set me back approx 15 bucks.

cant wait to try it out

I have never seen evidence and or data, anywhere, that any carbohydrate addative increases potency....it adds yeilds in the form or heavier denser buds (not more bud sites) and sweetens the terpins. Each strain has unique flavors so each strain is effected differently according to it properties....I have seen more than 1 experienced gower whom had their strain gain a more UNDESIRABLE flavor with the use of that B.Sweet product on the market...l wish there was one which increased potency...I would be a dedicated customer...this mix will increase weight and I have always had positive flavor effects....it works well and a bag make an enormous supply of it...YT

Cuttings...for any who doesnt need a hundred cuttings, here is what I do and get 100% rooting rate....8oz. Styro coffee cups makes the vessel for the cutting....I use something like a pencil to pop 4 holes in the bottom side...the lid is a 12oz clear solo (or similar)...the top of the clear lid, I cut a hole about the size of a half dollar...this holds enuf ambient moisture within their enviroment without being wet enuf to rain (visible moisture inside lid walls)...your grow tips promptly rot off if its too humid...the mix is 50/50 perlite/vermiculite mix...that is a PERFECT mix to obtain the correct medium moisture...I.prewet each cup with a very light bloom formula (about 1/4tsp.) and poke a hole in the medium with a pencil for the cutting to go in...
The light is a simple 4ft. shop fixture with (2) COOL WHITE BULBS.....I emphasise cool white because I have found that spectrum to be the best for rooting cuttings...I have tried many types and colors and never us anything but the cool white....it has worked the same with dozens of strains too...
I take bottom side shoots about 4-5 in long...I will completely immerse in water until I sit and stick them....I scrape the stem with a good razor at 90% to the stem...light enuf just to abrade the stem area that will be under the medium...that is done as a scarring and roots form easier in a scarred area than one that is not...after I scrape it, I dust it with a rooting auxin such as root tone (I prefer powders to liquids)...then tap off the excess powder, cut about a 1/2in off the bottom at a 45 degree angle and stick the cutting in the pre-poked hole in the medium....firm the medium around then cutting......cover it with a clear lid.....I use standard started trays to put them in......I keep 1in of water in the tray for them to sit in...since they had a lite formula for prewetting, I use straight pH'ed water in the tray....there they just sit for 2 weeks undisturbed...just keep 1/2" - 1" of water in the tray...in 14 days, the lids come off and they will all be rooted....I have never had a strain that was not rooted in 14 days... some as early as a week....I keep the light 6in over them...I have never lost a cutting using this procedure...