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"Say Cheese Girls"
- Thread starter Mate Dave
- Start date
Hello RudeDog, they look fairly good, I'm happy for now.
I fed the plants some Sensizym tonight and foliar'd the lowers and stripped out some of the decaying fans because there is no light under the canopy now.
The zym and Maxicrop help to reduce stress when causing woundings to plants as each burst cell has the potential to ruin a days growth changing the turgidity and the flow of water and nutriment from now on. From today to 6 weeks in is the 'Grow Phase' for me.. All that 'mumbo jumbo' on the bottles Forget it.. Beast mode 6 weeks. Fuck it all off after that..
I am gonna slam these girls in the butts with Advanced Nutrients Biug bud @ the recommended dose for the foreseeable future in alternated feedings with water.
I raised the lamp slightly today, I will perhaps put it closer depending on if the plants seem to be searching for more of it over the next day or so then I will lower it a few inch.
I intent to get some measurements done some point this week see what 'Girth' we have now on the stem @ the root collar and if there is any height that I feel could be put to use for future grows.
I also perhaps will report some on the soil temps and the pH of the substrate.
I ordered a 40L sack of Worm-Hummus from Bio-Bizz and I have a box of Pre-Mix Tubs laying about with a few tubes of perlite upstairs. My intention after harvest is to rejuvenate and mix this soil and Riddle it and rework it and plant direct with some new plants.
I'll tend to look for signs of scarrid fly and various nasties before deciding to do the rejuvenation after drying the mix out with the plants in it.
The media I got in seems to be fairly fresh so this could work well.
I fed the plants some Sensizym tonight and foliar'd the lowers and stripped out some of the decaying fans because there is no light under the canopy now.
The zym and Maxicrop help to reduce stress when causing woundings to plants as each burst cell has the potential to ruin a days growth changing the turgidity and the flow of water and nutriment from now on. From today to 6 weeks in is the 'Grow Phase' for me.. All that 'mumbo jumbo' on the bottles Forget it.. Beast mode 6 weeks. Fuck it all off after that..
I am gonna slam these girls in the butts with Advanced Nutrients Biug bud @ the recommended dose for the foreseeable future in alternated feedings with water.
I raised the lamp slightly today, I will perhaps put it closer depending on if the plants seem to be searching for more of it over the next day or so then I will lower it a few inch.
I intent to get some measurements done some point this week see what 'Girth' we have now on the stem @ the root collar and if there is any height that I feel could be put to use for future grows.
I also perhaps will report some on the soil temps and the pH of the substrate.
I ordered a 40L sack of Worm-Hummus from Bio-Bizz and I have a box of Pre-Mix Tubs laying about with a few tubes of perlite upstairs. My intention after harvest is to rejuvenate and mix this soil and Riddle it and rework it and plant direct with some new plants.
I'll tend to look for signs of scarrid fly and various nasties before deciding to do the rejuvenation after drying the mix out with the plants in it.
The media I got in seems to be fairly fresh so this could work well.
oldbean
Member
Honestly for a 1 lighter I don't think it matters.. What ever makes the cables reach for meI'd work on how you have the wings positioned and that for me is about Flat top or Manhattan Style gardens
Flat will be open wings and Manhattan style needs penetration to the base of the colas so I close the reflector. (That's certainly a good subject worthy for some discussion)
I have taken it out and properly turned them daily before now and the Mantis AEG male fitting needs to be set close to the bracket and @ the base if possible. (I have burn marks in old reflectors that show me where I was right, if you drew all those 'imaginary lumen lines' like on the packaging from the burn marks you visualise maximising the reflectors potential)
In a 1.2x2.4 you have overlap and direct & indirect light what can be used to an advantage if you place the lamps as the manufacturer suggests. I prefer multiple Arc's of bulbs and not 1 radiant 'Shit spot' where they yellow out under it and look bigger then the rest. I much prefer the whole grow being Optimal. Making no exceptions..
Thanks for taking the time to reply in such depth, much appreciated. Currently my mantis AEG fitting is set at the opposite of your recommendation.... I shall be adjusting that next time I'm in there!
Glad you mentioned the wing settings, I've been adjusting them every week or so as I'm not sure what is the best setting, doesn't help having a multi strain SOG from seed going on as its hard keeping an even canopy!
Anyway, back to your grow! You mention the next 6 weeks is grow time, do you feed them as much as possible during this time then after 6weeks just water??
Peace
No worries Old Bean I'm here to help. I won't be feeding them as such because they are in soil. I will add things to optimise growth. I'm not ever feeding them a base, although if they are short of nutrition in some areas I do use the Maxicrop organic Fertiliser.
Don't think of me as poisoning soil grown weed but more along the lines of "Bling Bling" to the plants adding terpenes.
Coco and hydro is always 100% worse off because of the science behind the growing. They feed for 8 weeks on salts and they have these salts in them forever it seems even with liquid organic feed they do not go through a process to get rid of the excess if you cut them.
The Vacuoles inside the plants are there only things that can help you clean your cannabis.
An understanding of plant cells and how the plant disposes of stuff and keeps on to things it may or may not need though intertcelular activity would be useful here.
The small amount of BB I use in 4 weeks is non negotiable and almost untraceable I would assume. Compared to day in day out A+B up the ass it makes a big difference.
The six weeks is the time any garden grown with any cultural method will need to maximise potential, anything out this 6 week period is too late. You done fucked up.. Don't be pk-ing or Top shooting or Ripen-ing @ this time your fucking up your crop. In this 6 weeks I try to use all the food in the soil so they are naturally cannibalising themselves for the last 21 days.
Don't think of me as poisoning soil grown weed but more along the lines of "Bling Bling" to the plants adding terpenes.
Coco and hydro is always 100% worse off because of the science behind the growing. They feed for 8 weeks on salts and they have these salts in them forever it seems even with liquid organic feed they do not go through a process to get rid of the excess if you cut them.
The Vacuoles inside the plants are there only things that can help you clean your cannabis.
An understanding of plant cells and how the plant disposes of stuff and keeps on to things it may or may not need though intertcelular activity would be useful here.
The small amount of BB I use in 4 weeks is non negotiable and almost untraceable I would assume. Compared to day in day out A+B up the ass it makes a big difference.
The six weeks is the time any garden grown with any cultural method will need to maximise potential, anything out this 6 week period is too late. You done fucked up.. Don't be pk-ing or Top shooting or Ripen-ing @ this time your fucking up your crop. In this 6 weeks I try to use all the food in the soil so they are naturally cannibalising themselves for the last 21 days.
Got to agree with you Mate. I used to run organic now I'm in DWC and coco out of necessity. It's a lot of faffing about trying to keep the ph stable, more so with hydro.
Maxicrop is the business, I did try an Australian equivalent which was good, can't remember what it was called.
Your last paragraph is just what I've been pondering. Couple of DWC plants I have are at 48 days flower and I'm thinking I should have put them on a plain water a few days ago.
Informative stuff pal.
Maxicrop is the business, I did try an Australian equivalent which was good, can't remember what it was called.
Your last paragraph is just what I've been pondering. Couple of DWC plants I have are at 48 days flower and I'm thinking I should have put them on a plain water a few days ago.
Informative stuff pal.
I cleaned the bulb and wiped down my reflector today, hoovered the flaps and zips on the tent and I fed the plants with some Mother Earth Tea 'Bloom', the last bit I had been saving for them. Tomorrow the girls are getting 45ml MaxiCrop in about 10 litres of tap pH 6.5.
One thing I always let myself down doing when growing dirt is I get Oedema sometimes if I don't wet dry cycle, this occurrence is about osmosis, the roots take up more water than the leaves can transpire, I feel this is something I can control with some experience, the root ball size and the amount of tops I grow the plants with contribute to the turgidity and translocation of fluids around the plant. The oedema happens more with dirt than coir and because of the excellent properties of the coir medium that sort of protects the plants when grown in it. You can't overwater coco but you can waste lots, thats what happens with a coir grow.
With a dirt grow the plants try to transpire the water to breath, the roots and the plant cells burst and you have this ugly chlorosis tip on all the fingers..
You can trim it off but I prefer to get the watering right.
About week 5ish the plants decide that they are slowing down and they need much less water daily.
The presence of too much water prevents the diffusion of these gases.
The commonest symptom is the yellowing of leaves & the lack of oxygen to the roots which causes a general stunting and encourages the development of rotting organisms and things stop going so sweet.
The rate of transpiration through the stem and roots both affect the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the plant.
The media in the tent is @ 19 c I have not experienced any run off yet which will go towards controlling any Odema likely to happen. It's just a waiting game now.
I've placed an order for some Co2 to Supplement so that should arrive for next week.
One thing I always let myself down doing when growing dirt is I get Oedema sometimes if I don't wet dry cycle, this occurrence is about osmosis, the roots take up more water than the leaves can transpire, I feel this is something I can control with some experience, the root ball size and the amount of tops I grow the plants with contribute to the turgidity and translocation of fluids around the plant. The oedema happens more with dirt than coir and because of the excellent properties of the coir medium that sort of protects the plants when grown in it. You can't overwater coco but you can waste lots, thats what happens with a coir grow.
With a dirt grow the plants try to transpire the water to breath, the roots and the plant cells burst and you have this ugly chlorosis tip on all the fingers..
You can trim it off but I prefer to get the watering right.
About week 5ish the plants decide that they are slowing down and they need much less water daily.
The presence of too much water prevents the diffusion of these gases.
The commonest symptom is the yellowing of leaves & the lack of oxygen to the roots which causes a general stunting and encourages the development of rotting organisms and things stop going so sweet.
The rate of transpiration through the stem and roots both affect the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the plant.
The media in the tent is @ 19 c I have not experienced any run off yet which will go towards controlling any Odema likely to happen. It's just a waiting game now.
I've placed an order for some Co2 to Supplement so that should arrive for next week.
This is what the girls look like today, i'm happy with how things are as for the past few days I have not had the tent open, not looked @ them. I've just been putting the feed through the pots and hoping. I had to put the light up a few inches today.
I'm intrigued to get some petiole tests done as some of the fans are showing to have the red in the petiole and others are not, I feel that an analysis would raise interesting point. Not that it would make them grow any better but would give an understanding to why it happens.
I'm intrigued to get some petiole tests done as some of the fans are showing to have the red in the petiole and others are not, I feel that an analysis would raise interesting point. Not that it would make them grow any better but would give an understanding to why it happens.
Thank you Green81. Tidy grow tidy mind and all that, I enjoy Botany/plant science it's a great subject, I think it's much more rewarding then Soil Science is or garden design for me personally. To become a effective soil scientist botany will help. They are taught side by side and both are needed to gain optimal growth of a crop if you don't understand the 'plant' the soil science is not going to help. "Mapping soil types and their distribution would interest me"
Garden design being useless in my opinion as I like things 'formal' or naturalised. I cannot comprehend contemporary stuff but folks love it.. Call me old fashioned but I just like it the way I like it, it's much more elegant and expensive in my view.
I preferd propagation over Science and Design, that's my area I enjoy most and I feel I understand the most about horticulturally.
Soil science was ok but once you realise that soil science is different depending on location and the country your in and how they interpritate things their way, also the available 'Ameliorants' are different, it gets annoying that there is no set way of gaining reliable data from one source to the other without legality or importing stuff so unless you grow as a standard, you cannot hope to copy something elsewhere geographically. Or get reliable data. The product always changes...
There is not much you can put in a grow diary I can think of without chatting and turning it into a production timetable and that isn't what I wanted to do. The dairies I was given @ college shown me how to keep up to date with the crop that is being grown, I feel they were not as informative as the production timetables. They are for different purposes after all so if you are the master/head grower and have no co-workers. You might as well blend/merge the two.
Production timetables have the essentials of what needs doing & when to maximise crop potential. Diaries generally have all the unnecessary ponceified tosh pertaining to snake oils and voodoo people would think were vital to growing a weed. Some of which I am guilty of however the production timetable can be the 'diary' if your on point, there is no need to evaluate the slake oils when it's proven to work time in and out.
This documentation will generally keep track of mistakes and will locate how and where you messed up. Handy for seed starts and stuff you never grown before I suppose.
My production timetables are very different from how I was shown them as I have my own formula I invented. I may introduce one over the next grow I do from clone, timetables are more useful for people to get the exact growth from a standard. Like a nursery stock growers manual.
We all grow the same plants so it would help newbies follow the best route to High Brix and get those certified clean flowers
Garden design being useless in my opinion as I like things 'formal' or naturalised. I cannot comprehend contemporary stuff but folks love it.. Call me old fashioned but I just like it the way I like it, it's much more elegant and expensive in my view.
I preferd propagation over Science and Design, that's my area I enjoy most and I feel I understand the most about horticulturally.
Soil science was ok but once you realise that soil science is different depending on location and the country your in and how they interpritate things their way, also the available 'Ameliorants' are different, it gets annoying that there is no set way of gaining reliable data from one source to the other without legality or importing stuff so unless you grow as a standard, you cannot hope to copy something elsewhere geographically. Or get reliable data. The product always changes...
There is not much you can put in a grow diary I can think of without chatting and turning it into a production timetable and that isn't what I wanted to do. The dairies I was given @ college shown me how to keep up to date with the crop that is being grown, I feel they were not as informative as the production timetables. They are for different purposes after all so if you are the master/head grower and have no co-workers. You might as well blend/merge the two.
Production timetables have the essentials of what needs doing & when to maximise crop potential. Diaries generally have all the unnecessary ponceified tosh pertaining to snake oils and voodoo people would think were vital to growing a weed. Some of which I am guilty of however the production timetable can be the 'diary' if your on point, there is no need to evaluate the slake oils when it's proven to work time in and out.
This documentation will generally keep track of mistakes and will locate how and where you messed up. Handy for seed starts and stuff you never grown before I suppose.
My production timetables are very different from how I was shown them as I have my own formula I invented. I may introduce one over the next grow I do from clone, timetables are more useful for people to get the exact growth from a standard. Like a nursery stock growers manual.
We all grow the same plants so it would help newbies follow the best route to High Brix and get those certified clean flowers
"HEMPEROR"
Active member
Looks and sounds good, so I wanna hear a little more about maxi crop wot is it and is it good for coco and hydro or just soil, can you root feed or just foliar and wots it do, why is it good. Thanks in advance
OK Hemp. I will explain a little. Basically it's a Seaweed liquid the one i'm using made from cold pressed Kelp, it comes in a concentrate also. It provides more availability of plant nutriment in 4 areas. Microbes, chlorophyl, stress relief and frost. It helps towards seed emergence also.
You can apply it as a drench or as a foliar. In coir Maxicrop will still works it's wonders.
There is great evidence from Mike Gardner their rep which shows that commercial applications of P205 to soil prior to planting with maximise crop potential over that of Maxicrop alone.
BioBizz has P205 in it @ source. That's partly why I think plants love this combo from the off providing heavier yields of superior quality by eliminating certain growth constraints.
I have used it on coir for years Hemp. It's certainly not going to be a growth retardant like overferting.
Many forms of this 'Kelp' are available from many manufacturers but as I live not far from their offices it's more organic for me to source it from here as it's comes over anyway and I am not importing something from Norway.
They also produce a seaweed meal that is applied via 'broadcast' to a new bare soil what will also provide the same levels or growth enhancement as the liquid but you cannot get it to foliar also.. I suppose it depends on the hectares your growing agriculturally when you up the game.
For uncultivated soils the 'Meal' will get you a crop off when without it the plants might have to give up the go.
Foliar being intravenous to plants. Direct into where gaseous exchange takes place increasing respiration and crop 'scent' dramatically.
You can apply it as a drench or as a foliar. In coir Maxicrop will still works it's wonders.
There is great evidence from Mike Gardner their rep which shows that commercial applications of P205 to soil prior to planting with maximise crop potential over that of Maxicrop alone.
BioBizz has P205 in it @ source. That's partly why I think plants love this combo from the off providing heavier yields of superior quality by eliminating certain growth constraints.
I have used it on coir for years Hemp. It's certainly not going to be a growth retardant like overferting.
Many forms of this 'Kelp' are available from many manufacturers but as I live not far from their offices it's more organic for me to source it from here as it's comes over anyway and I am not importing something from Norway.
They also produce a seaweed meal that is applied via 'broadcast' to a new bare soil what will also provide the same levels or growth enhancement as the liquid but you cannot get it to foliar also.. I suppose it depends on the hectares your growing agriculturally when you up the game.
For uncultivated soils the 'Meal' will get you a crop off when without it the plants might have to give up the go.
Foliar being intravenous to plants. Direct into where gaseous exchange takes place increasing respiration and crop 'scent' dramatically.
"HEMPEROR"
Active member
Ok thanks I'll look into it. Happy growing matey.
One important think I know is that the longer you can keep a plant green for or prevent it from performing some necrosis the less you will have to hide @ trim time.
Ideally you want to see all the Anthocyanins and the Carotenoids come out in the fans to tell you you have hit the nail on the head as it were but as long as they are not full of chlorophyll they dry faster and they smoke much better instantly and with no cure it's absolute fire. If it's too green then the weed is piss poor.
This optimal growth means that you can get away without a 'Close Shave' with some strains and that is a bigger pay check and less 'processing' in my book. Not removing anything because of dieback. Perhaps just one big shake of the stem a day or two before chop and everything falls of the plants that needs to..
I often trim a whole carrier bag out one of these 1.2 m2 tents of just sugar trim, no fans included in that bag.
It makes fire concentrate, when it's perfect it's lost some chlorophyll and it washes up into better bubble hash because there is less wax and 'cutin' in the mix making a sandy hash not a sticky black one. The water also stays clearer, sometimes I use this to feed the to the plants. It proper stinks!!! (Cannabis Tea)
This bag of sugar trim, I have never dried it out to make dry sieve.. So I am not sure what it's dry weight is to be honest but it must be nearly £1000 in extra flower weight and it never makes that much hash. A 10-1 ratio sucks.
So I figure it that if you pull 120-150g+ per trimmed plant that's roughly 1gram per twat with my calculations but untrimmed it's a much fatter yield of bud weight and then were talking close to 26+ ounce of bud.
Ideally you want to see all the Anthocyanins and the Carotenoids come out in the fans to tell you you have hit the nail on the head as it were but as long as they are not full of chlorophyll they dry faster and they smoke much better instantly and with no cure it's absolute fire. If it's too green then the weed is piss poor.
This optimal growth means that you can get away without a 'Close Shave' with some strains and that is a bigger pay check and less 'processing' in my book. Not removing anything because of dieback. Perhaps just one big shake of the stem a day or two before chop and everything falls of the plants that needs to..
I often trim a whole carrier bag out one of these 1.2 m2 tents of just sugar trim, no fans included in that bag.
It makes fire concentrate, when it's perfect it's lost some chlorophyll and it washes up into better bubble hash because there is less wax and 'cutin' in the mix making a sandy hash not a sticky black one. The water also stays clearer, sometimes I use this to feed the to the plants. It proper stinks!!! (Cannabis Tea)
This bag of sugar trim, I have never dried it out to make dry sieve.. So I am not sure what it's dry weight is to be honest but it must be nearly £1000 in extra flower weight and it never makes that much hash. A 10-1 ratio sucks.
So I figure it that if you pull 120-150g+ per trimmed plant that's roughly 1gram per twat with my calculations but untrimmed it's a much fatter yield of bud weight and then were talking close to 26+ ounce of bud.
Hey Andy. Anytime you need some English stuff posting mate let me know I'll see what I can do. Just give me some time and i'll try sort it.
Some nice plants from them seeds mate. I see you have some SSH that has been working nice too. Lovely plant in a great setting that one dude. Any pics of the Landrace your running or is that a bit risky? Thai/Laos stuff.. I know your grows are kinda pioneering with some virgin spots & some bigger plots. You Guerrilla..
I had the Co2 come from the shop today buddy... Basically as a test I have fed the plants the water out the can tonight and refilled it as per usual, then I filled a separate bucket and dropped in a co2 pill to see what it does overnight to the pH of the water see how strong they are. (Trial and error now) It says feed/dose @ light on.. Also says that 1 tab per 100 litres so I just powdered one up and put it in a pint of water see if it dissolves any better.
Package also says has some Mag supplement in for the increase in metabolism caused by 33% increase in flower weight. lol...
WTF is this Snake oil stuff? http://www.basementlighting.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?page=1/prod/nmsga
Co2's @ the bottom of the page.
I Gave all the girls a big shake and cleared all the detritus out the tent that fell tonight before cultivating the soil surface and wetting it.
I also unzipped the horizontal bottom front so there is a complete vent around the tent currently what's a nice touch. I don't use any air circulation in my grows I find it causes much hassles and 100% it is not needed if you have environmental controls going properly. I find that these tents do not have a negative pressure issue associated with SJ and HB as they tailored very well and are tough work horses and I have decided I like the cool air flow I get this way going up and through from bottom to top. I think any oscillating fan in this small room is not doing anything but "evapotranspireing" them out unnecessarily causing nutrient issues.
I've been feeding water @ room temperatures for a while now and not been testing it, Rooms been @ 20c today. think I will do some measurements tomorrow, fairly sure them 18" leads have nearly doubled the sneaky things. Still got feet of headroom for the last bit of the cycle so I flipped it just about right I think...
I have noticed that the internode gaps are lager than I expected.. Cheese popcorn.. If they fill them gaps OMG!
Some nice plants from them seeds mate. I see you have some SSH that has been working nice too. Lovely plant in a great setting that one dude. Any pics of the Landrace your running or is that a bit risky? Thai/Laos stuff.. I know your grows are kinda pioneering with some virgin spots & some bigger plots. You Guerrilla..
I had the Co2 come from the shop today buddy... Basically as a test I have fed the plants the water out the can tonight and refilled it as per usual, then I filled a separate bucket and dropped in a co2 pill to see what it does overnight to the pH of the water see how strong they are. (Trial and error now) It says feed/dose @ light on.. Also says that 1 tab per 100 litres so I just powdered one up and put it in a pint of water see if it dissolves any better.
Package also says has some Mag supplement in for the increase in metabolism caused by 33% increase in flower weight. lol...
WTF is this Snake oil stuff? http://www.basementlighting.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?page=1/prod/nmsga
Co2's @ the bottom of the page.
I Gave all the girls a big shake and cleared all the detritus out the tent that fell tonight before cultivating the soil surface and wetting it.
I also unzipped the horizontal bottom front so there is a complete vent around the tent currently what's a nice touch. I don't use any air circulation in my grows I find it causes much hassles and 100% it is not needed if you have environmental controls going properly. I find that these tents do not have a negative pressure issue associated with SJ and HB as they tailored very well and are tough work horses and I have decided I like the cool air flow I get this way going up and through from bottom to top. I think any oscillating fan in this small room is not doing anything but "evapotranspireing" them out unnecessarily causing nutrient issues.
I've been feeding water @ room temperatures for a while now and not been testing it, Rooms been @ 20c today. think I will do some measurements tomorrow, fairly sure them 18" leads have nearly doubled the sneaky things. Still got feet of headroom for the last bit of the cycle so I flipped it just about right I think...
I have noticed that the internode gaps are lager than I expected.. Cheese popcorn.. If they fill them gaps OMG!
Pic's
Pic's
I know I said there's no point having a fan in the tent... I found my Bionair in a cupboard so I have opened up the tent half hour before lights on and have it full whack into the canopy. Them bitches be dancing.. I put some old school 97 'drum & bass' on for them.
Pic's
I know I said there's no point having a fan in the tent... I found my Bionair in a cupboard so I have opened up the tent half hour before lights on and have it full whack into the canopy. Them bitches be dancing.. I put some old school 97 'drum & bass' on for them.
Latest posts
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Cannabis Extraction Solvent Safety - An Evidence Based Study- Latest: EastCoastGambit
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Latest posts
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Cannabis Extraction Solvent Safety - An Evidence Based Study
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