Any suggestions for Fusarium wilt?

I have Fusarium, and 2 weeks to harvest. Had to chop about a dozen buds, and want to salvage the rest.

Going to try spraying with procidic. Will also add to feed in coco.

Heard I have to foliar feed, since the insides are clogged up. Hoping I do not need to hack now.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

According to procidic it can be used the day after harvest.

Ive never had fusarium, however the information ive read on it states that it has a 100% mortality rate, i think foliar feeding may get you close to harvest, obviously the foliar could bring on some additional issues with mold/rot.

In your situation i dont think you have much to lose in trying, you may be able to limp to the finish line with minimal losses.

Your plan seems to be solid, If you can post some pictures and document the next couple weeks, i think the community would benefit from this information.

Happy Learning! good luck.

You can save a plant with yellowing leaves from Fusarium. Once they wilt and leaves flop down; I have not seen them recover.

Keep in mind that smoking fusarium contaminated pot can kill someone with a compromised immune system, or the unlucky healthy person. It can infect humans.

Crusader Rabbit said:

Keep in mind that smoking fusarium contaminated pot can kill someone with a compromised immune system, or the unlucky healthy person. It can infect humans.

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I would only vape it myself. Probably hook my old bong up to the vape to catch any possible spores. I have heard soaking it under water for 24 hours should kill all mold. Sadly it hits the largest top buds first. If it continues to rot buds, will harvest it all. I am at about 55 days. Will try one more dose of procidic tomorrow night.

This is from MyNameIsStich's guide to plant problems from infirmary -

He says that nothing will save them, but guide is 7 years old, and Flying Skull Nukem and Procidic list Fusarium. Both use Citric Acid as active ingredient -

Fusarium Wilt

The United States released this fungus in an area; it later had devastating effects on cannabis plants even after winter had passed it stayed in the soil. Seedlings that were planted were killed several years after the fungus was released. This fungus can be air borne and transmitted like other fungus and pathogens, it gets in through susceptible plants that have been wounded through environmental factors like animal attacks, pruning, LST (Low Stress Training), pest infestation and using cutting utensils that are not sanitary that may have fungus or bacteria on them. Fusarium wilt causes internal damage to vascular lines inside the plant and blocks the plants ability to carry water and nutrients. Symptoms included wilting of the plant, leaves becoming necrotic and yellowing wilting of the leaves while the yellowing leaves may look like a nutrient deficiency, this is clearly a mask, with Fusarium wilt, leaves will yellow and stay on the plant, where with a nitrogen deficiency the leaves will yellow and fall off. While not affecting the roots, it does affect inside the plant cell walls, inside the plants walls will reveal a red brown color inside the tissue. Stems will change color from normal green and purple hue, to a dark purple to blackish color. This pathogen can get confused with root rot, because the symptoms this pathogen shows are nearly the same as root rot, but roots are not affected. This clogging effect inside is what causes the external symptoms. While this fungus is traveling inside the plant, the toxins spread to uninfected areas and causing the clogging effect internally, these toxins is what causes the other un infected tissue to start to show the 2ndary problems, which are slow wilting of the leaves, stem collapse, stem discoloration and overall droopiness (as if the plant is dry and had no water) to parts of the plant, even if they get plenty of water. This fungus is a real killer to cannabis plants, any remaining plants that are survived can be stunted. Fusarium Wilt thrives in warm moist temperatures, which is why southern states have Fusarium Wilt the worst.


Prevent and Control

Fusarium Wilt is by far one of the hardest things for cannabis to overcome, if it ever does overcome it. Your plant health, environment and strain have a lot to do with weather or not Fusarium wilt will take over your plants. This pathogen mainly affects cannabis and hemp family, but can affect other plants but does not show the damaging effect it has on cannabis, like it does on other kinds of plants. This pathogen was breed specifically to attack wild cannabis plants and growers who grow there plants outdoors’. There is no form of organic control for this type, reason for this is, because the fungus is so strong and not susceptible to much of anything unless you get it right when it starts, if you do not get it in time, it thrives in the plants and consumes and kills the plants. There is only a few ways to control this fungus, one is to fumigate the area you are growing in killing the pathogen in the soil while it is dormant, so when you grow in this area again, your plants are much less likely to get it, the only other way your plants could get this if not from the soil, is from airborne spores get in through open wounds on your plants leaves, stems and stalks. Plants that produced seeds when it was infected with Fusarium wilt should not be used, as the pathogen stays dormant on the seed and attacks it when the seedling emerges and causing the “damping off” effect and thus killing the seedling before it even has a chance to grow it’s real first set of leaves. Acidic soil helps boost Fusarium wilt. Stay away from acidic soils .Counteract this by using dolomite lime, or green sand Using potassium and calcium enriched organic nutrients can help fight off and prevent Fusarium wilt, excessive amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus can speed up Fusarium wilt.

If your plant gets this it will surely die, the only thing you can do is try to reduce the destruction by foliar feeding areas that are not infected, cut off infected areas discard them away from your growing areas and treat the wound with h202 (Hydrogen Peroxide).
Making sure you clean your tools afterwards is important. Treating with fungicides will not work in controlling this.

I had to harvest early. Will post some pictures, but busy trimming large leaves, hanging, buds, removing rot, and soaking any bud that was adjacent to rot. It is hanging in 55% humidity area with fans.

Have grown 95% GG4 for last few years. I get rot on any other strain, but never with that. Really impressed by the Kosher Kush, weight wise. The opposite with Purple Afghan Kush, but may have to do with their disease resistance.

By the time you notice Fusarium, I think it is over. Top buds looked like they were cooked up and brown. A few weeks earlier, lower leaves wilted and turned brown and damp. After harvesting you find brown spots on buds, and on inside is total mold, and bud disintegrating

Since it's a sistemic infection of the plant, by the time you can identify it, plant is already almost dead. You can only prevent it spreading to other plants by having good practice and properly discarding of the infected plant matter and then cleaning the tools/area very well.

exploziv said:

Since it's a sistemic infection of the plant, by the time you can identify it, plant is already almost dead. You can only prevent it spreading to other plants by having good practice and properly discarding of the infected plant matter and then cleaning the tools/area very well.

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You cannot eliminate it. It is naturally occurring in soil. It takes hold in high temps and when plants are stressed.

I had res temps close to 80 for almost a week. It came on fast. Noticed the infection was at the bottom of the stem. Some plants showed only a touch of yellow starting at leaf tips. 10% bleach at he base. Only 5ml or so. Stopped it from progressing. Then got res back down in the 60's and all is well again.

Fusarium seems to attack the stem base first from the outside. Roots were fine. So the oxidizer zapped it.

mushroombrew said:

You cannot eliminate it. It is naturally occurring in soil. It takes hold in high temps and when plants are stressed.

I had res temps close to 80 for almost a week. It came on fast. Noticed the infection was at the bottom of the stem. Some plants showed only a touch of yellow starting at leaf tips. 10% bleach at he base. Only 5ml or so. Stopped it from progressing. Then got res back down in the 60's and all is well again.

Fusarium seems to attack the stem base first from the outside. Roots were fine. So the oxidizer zapped it.

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You would be the first to beat fusarium.
Seems like there a 2 kinds, both incurable. Spores get into the air, ozone is recommended to kill, as well as high temps.
Here's a discussion I was involved in:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=335110

Harvest now

Loc Dog said:

I have Fusarium, and 2 weeks to harvest. Had to chop about a dozen buds, and want to salvage the rest.

Going to try spraying with procidic. Will also add to feed in coco.

Heard I have to foliar feed, since the insides are clogged up. Hoping I do not need to hack now.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

According to procidic it can be used the day after harvest.

Click to expand...

packratt said:

You would be the first to beat fusarium.
Seems like there a 2 kinds, both incurable. Spores get into the air, ozone is recommended to kill, as well as high temps.
Here's a discussion I was involved in:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=335110

Click to expand...

Yes. I am sure to be the first to use sodium hypochlorite and potassium silicate together. Maybe someone else can try. As I wont have high res temps again unless a break down occurs.
Severely infected plants died within 48hrs. The rest (70%) recovered.

Ok these three plants died. They were 5wks into flower. AC unit went down so It was hot for one week prior.

When I pulled them from the media roots were intact. Just had rotted right were they meet the stem. And it stunk bad like rotten gross.


So I dosed 250ml Pro tekt per 50Gallons. Made sure to hand water the potassium silicate on all media and stem.

They remaining plants show leaf curl and some yellowing.

They got a 10% bleach solution right on the base. Yes it will burn a tad. But the hypochlorite (CLO)quickly converts to Chloride in the presence of organic material.

And the amount of NaOH formed would never reach the roots as I only applied a teaspoon or so at a time. NaOH is toxic to plants.

Sprayed this solution on Media (GS1) and stem base for three days. Increased to couple times a day when I did not notice any burn or damage. Again solution did not penetrate the media just the surface.

Infection halted and plants went on to finish. Have a lab available so will test flower for toxins.

Correction Media was Hydroton

fat freddy said:

This might help as future prevention.
Induced Systemic Resistance (ISR) - Induced by non-pathogenic organisms or bio-chemical stimuli (jasmonic acid as signalling molecule). Involves tricking the plant into responding as though it were under attack, in the same way antibodies are produced in a human body in response to a vaccine.
Kelp - cytokinins involved in ISR
Silica - promotes accumulation of phenolics in infected host epidermal cells and increases number of cells that respond.
Promote soil life diversity - many ISR responses happen at the root/soil interface with specific microbes such as : Bacillus subtilis, Tricoderma harzianum, Gliocladium virens, Pseudomonas species, compost tea (species and exudate variety,). Microbes that eat and out compete disease.

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Do you know how much pure Jasmonic acid to water, and is it sprayed or added to feed? I think my GH products have kelp. I fed Great white, which should have all of that bacteria. I feed silica. I have all the stuff for Heisenberg tea, but have not made it in years.

Has anyone had success with ozone?? A quick google search says it kills it. Is too much ozone bad for the plants. Does it need to be run continuously, or just occasionally?

This is first article I found -

http://www.ozoneapplications.com/info/ozone_bacteria_mold_viruses.htm

Loc Dog said:

Do you know how much pure Jasmonic acid to water, and is it sprayed or added to feed? I think my GH products have kelp. I fed Great white, which should have all of that bacteria. I feed silica. I have all the stuff for Heisenberg tea, but have not made it in years.

Has anyone had success with ozone?? A quick google search says it kills it. Is too much ozone bad for the plants. Does it need to be run continuously, or just occasionally?

This is first article I found -

https://www.ozoneapplications.com/info/ozone_bacteria_mold_viruses.htm

Click to expand...

Ozone is an oxidizer. O3 converts to O2. Loses an oxygen molecule.
In much the same way CLO loses one and coverts to CL
And H2O2 does the same becoming H2O.

It's all about that extra oxygen.

So yes an oxidiser of any kind will kill it. But ozone is hard to work with and quite hazardous if you breath high concentrations.

I chose NaCLO (aka bleach).

mushroombrew said:

Ozone is an oxidizer. O3 converts to O2. Loses an oxygen molecule.
In much the same way CLO loses one and coverts to CL
And H2O2 does the same becoming H2O.

It's all about that extra oxygen.

So yes an oxidiser of any kind will kill it. But ozone is hard to work with and quite hazardous if you breath high concentrations.

I chose NaCLO (aka bleach).

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Is it sprayed, or fed to plants? How many PPM?? What are indications of too much??

I heard someone say feeding more than 2 drops per gallon was bad, in RDWC.

Was thinking of ozone generator in tent during lights off in tent, with exhaust fan off, then exhausting it up the chimney, where exhaust usually goes.

Thanks!!

Indications of too much would be chalky white bleached plant tissue. Careful not to get any on the leaves they will burn.

Honestly a picture would help. If they are wilting at all they won't come back. You may be too late already.

If your plants look like the ones with arrows...they are history.

Well what I did was sanitize the base of stem and top of media. Very light quick mist. Not trying to saturate. Bleach will kill plants if you drench. My plants were as good as dead anyway so I tried it.

10% bleach in water. 10%=1/10th=100,000ppm.

I used a pump sprayer. Got the pressure really high(lots of pumps) and used the finest mist I could get.

Quick circle around the top of media. And a quick squirt on the base of stem where it meets the media. DO NOT SATURATE !! If you do they will die I promise.

Also potassium silicate as I said before. Go back and read my post again.

Try one plant maybe? I just did this for the first time. 3wks ago. It worked.

Final words:- Several varieties of Fusarium. No Idea which one I killed off. Results may vary.

Loc Dog said:

I had to harvest early. Will post some pictures, but busy trimming large leaves, hanging, buds, removing rot, and soaking any bud that was adjacent to rot. It is hanging in 55% humidity area with fans.

Have grown 95% GG4 for last few years. I get rot on any other strain, but never with that. Really impressed by the Kosher Kush, weight wise. The opposite with Purple Afghan Kush, but may have to do with their disease resistance.

By the time you notice Fusarium, I think it is over. Top buds looked like they were cooked up and brown. A few weeks earlier, lower leaves wilted and turned brown and damp. After harvesting you find brown spots on buds, and on inside is total mold, and bud disintegrating

Click to expand...

Yeah if it's been weeks there is no way. It is a systemic infection but it begins at the stem base. I caught it within 72Hrs and shut it down.
What happened? What was your rez temp. You said you're in RDWC right?

Thanks for the info. Will give bleach a try, and research the ozone a little more. Wikipedia suggests Trichoderma viride, which is cheap from India. I have some clones of the Kosher Kush and Headband. Hoping they are not screwed. Look good so far. Also read that it prospers between 25C and 30C. Should be under that by time these flower.

I have tried everything, grow wise. In coco again, since growing from seeds, and easy to move around that way. In RDWC I keep under 70F. No chiller, but drop in frozen soda bottles to keep it between 65F and 70F.

Busy trimming sun leaves off of harvested buds. Hopefully done by dawn, and work on young vegging plants tomorrow.

I found another product that is supposed to combat fusarium, called Mycostop. It seems the buds rotted where I cut leaves late in flower.