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Proper way to decontaminate room after russet mite invasion without breaking the ban?

They definitely can't/won't become heat resistant.

I'm surprised the Green Cleaner didn't work for you. It destroyed the russet's I used in my experiments. It definitely didn't wipe out the eggs, but it killed all the mites it hit on contact.

I used 2oz/gal.

Can be very rough on plants, so be aware. I find that a foliar spray with aspirin 1/2 tablet (162mg)/gal, and light dose of superthrive and or rhizotonic the day after really helps with Green Cleaner, Nuke Em. Helps them revitalize after the intense drying action of these types of products.
 
They definitely can't/won't become heat resistant.

I'm surprised the Green Cleaner didn't work for you. It destroyed the russet's I used in my experiments. It definitely didn't wipe out the eggs, but it killed all the mites it hit on contact.

I used 2oz/gal.

Can be very rough on plants, so be aware. I find that a foliar spray with aspirin 1/2 tablet (162mg)/gal, and light dose of superthrive and or rhizotonic the day after really helps with Green Cleaner, Nuke Em. Helps them revitalize after the intense drying action of these types of products.

Fml I must be the luckiest person in the world then cause after two heat treatments they are still running around. First treatment 117F for 2hrs and second was 120F for 2.5hrs even let it rise above a few degrees at times. Plant made it through both treatments just fine, and so did the mites. Maybe it knocked their population down i cant be sure but the first flower i scoped with a 60x magnifier had one running around. He looked up at me, mooned me, flipped me off and then went about his merry god damn way. :moon::nanana::wave:

After seeing that i got all crazy and let it rain big time exterminator all over the place. Gonna use it for now im looking into getting og biowar and i'll pick up some superthrive and rhizotonic i meant to order that when i got cannazym but forgot to. Thanks for the info brother these gremlins are tearing my girls and my mind apart.

I've researched more sites about broads including some in depth info from a few agro universities. From what i read they need a "live" host they cant feed on dead plants or anything. Thats what its probably going to come down to im getting the feeling im fighting a unwinnable battle here and depriving them of food is the only sure way. Gonna multiply their lifespan by at least 2-3 and leave my room empty for that long or around 1-2 months.
 
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Had 3 thermometers in the cab one placed just below canopy level, one at it and one just above. Top 2 hit 120F one above topped out at 125F and couldnt read higher. Leaves pointed almost straight up during the treatment but still had mites happily running around afterwards. I dont know what to make of this maybe my broad mites have evolved. If they did hopefully they still die without food.
 

Speed of green

Active member
I used chemical pesticides and fungicides for years, certain ones work better than others.
Forbid 4f will kill everything in two applications max. it is the most effective mite killer i have come across.

That being said if you work a little IPM into you schedule you should never need to use these harsh chemicals again.

ive been pest and mold free for almost two years using no chemicals.
 

Mick

Member
Veteran
Ive resolved to totally decontaminate and quit for 2 months so they have nothing to feed on.

The problem is that any mites you miss can go dormant if you leave your room in darkness, so the moment you put your lights back on they'll wake up and start doing their thing. If you want to starve them and get your room clean again, leave a light on for a month or 2, so they keep hatching, but having nothing to eat, and they'll die out. In a small room a 80 watt globe will work. Only works in a super clean, empty room, but it does work with mites in general. Not sure about russet mites, but they are mites and so need light and warmth to reproduce, which in this case is what you want. This way they keep reproducing untill they all starve and don't get to hide out in any nooks or crannies.
 

igrowone

Well-known member
Veteran
condolences on your heat treatment
the thing with mites, it's not a sprint - it's a marathon
they don't go down that easily
however, there may have been some good things
mite eggs will be much smaller than a mite, they will have much less thermal mass
which means they will die quicker, all other things being equal
killing the eggs is fine, just have to be patient and keep at it
 

Vanilla Phoenix

Super Lurker
ICMag Donor
I used chemical pesticides and fungicides for years, certain ones work better than others.
Forbid 4f will kill everything in two applications max. it is the most effective mite killer i have come across.

That being said if you work a little IPM into you schedule you should never need to use these harsh chemicals again.

ive been pest and mold free for almost two years using no chemicals.

Forbid worked for me too. Can’t spray plants in bloom though. Stuff is expensive but it works. You can find small amounts on eBay for cheaper.

I would suggest spraying down the grow area with forbid after the plants are gone. It kills ALL mites and eggs. Supposedly mites cannot build a tolerance to it either.
 

Absolem

Active member
Forbid works the best. As mentioned above don't spray it in flower.

To get the best results from Forbid according to the label. If you do it this way it brings the effectiveness of Forbid where you should only need to spray once.

pH between 5.0-5.5. Anything over 5.5 it becomes much less effective.
Use a surfactant. This is super important. Indicate five.
https://rosemania.com/page9.html .....Just scroll down the page a bit till you find Indicate Five.
Don't worry about spraying the underside of the leaves.
It does not work instantly. It takes up to TEN DAYS to kill all the mites and eggs.

Wait 10-14 days and if you see any mites spray again.


This is how they spray crops as mentioned above. They only need to spray once to keep an orchard relatively mite free. This product is used on cherries and grapes under a different label. Produced by the same company in different facilities. They do this so one can be labeled for ornamental and the other for crops. It's fine on crops because we don't burn cherries and grapes like we do with weed.


Cheers
 
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redlaser

Active member
Veteran
120 should have had losses, how tall are your plants?

If they are too tall you won’t have enough heat to be effective on the lower part of the plant.

You can lose 3-4 degrees per foot of height, the shorter the better for heat treatment.

I lost the top 50% of my plants that were at 117-118 degrees
 

redlaser

Active member
Veteran
As far as forbid/spiromesifen goes, it’s primarily for ornamentals plants. They make a half strength version they claim is safe for strawberries and some other fruit at 26% concentration versus the 43% ornamental forbid version. Other one is called Obercon or something.

First of all even the company says forbid is not meant for food crops.I don’t understand the reasoning that half strength forbid is safe to consume.
Second, there are no studies on the effects of smoked spiromesifen residues in humans, charting new territory there
Also, the half life residue of spiromesifen is 24-86 days depending on the ph of the water it’s mixed with. Light doesn’t break it down at all.

Spent several years at a tree/shrub care company spraying half the time. Had to be a licensed applicator and be able to talk to customers who would question stuff. We would spray between 300-750 gallons a
day on busy days between 10-18 customers
 
The problem is that any mites you miss can go dormant if you leave your room in darkness, so the moment you put your lights back on they'll wake up and start doing their thing. If you want to starve them and get your room clean again, leave a light on for a month or 2, so they keep hatching, but having nothing to eat, and they'll die out. In a small room a 80 watt globe will work. Only works in a super clean, empty room, but it does work with mites in general. Not sure about russet mites, but they are mites and so need light and warmth to reproduce, which in this case is what you want. This way they keep reproducing untill they all starve and don't get to hide out in any nooks or crannies.

Sounds good man ive already cleaned the room and after this run i will totally wipe the room down with bleach. I can safely hang lights all over the room so that'll be easy and i figure i'll wait 2 months to be safe. I might go crazy waiting after a month though and end up making some kind of hermetically sealed incubation box for some seedlings to get started in. But id hate to have to do this all over again so might as well get the pain over with in one straight shot. Ty for the info kind sir:tiphat:
 
condolences on your heat treatment
the thing with mites, it's not a sprint - it's a marathon
they don't go down that easily
however, there may have been some good things
mite eggs will be much smaller than a mite, they will have much less thermal mass
which means they will die quicker, all other things being equal
killing the eggs is fine, just have to be patient and keep at it

Didnt know that i wouldve figured the eggs were hardier then the adults good to know.
 
Forbid worked for me too. Can’t spray plants in bloom though. Stuff is expensive but it works. You can find small amounts on eBay for cheaper.

I would suggest spraying down the grow area with forbid after the plants are gone. It kills ALL mites and eggs. Supposedly mites cannot build a tolerance to it either.

I'll see if i can find some cheap on ebay/amazon in a small amount. I gotta be careful what i use since i am in the same room with these cabs for at least 12hrs a day. Its not as toxic as avid from what ive read and if forbid isn't any worse then cleaning with a bleach solution then i wouldnt mind.
 
Forbid works the best. As mentioned above don't spray it in flower.

To get the best results from Forbid according to the label. If you do it this way it brings the effectiveness of Forbid where you should only need to spray once.

pH between 5.0-5.5. Anything over 5.5 it becomes much less effective.
Use a surfactant. This is super important. Indicate five.
https://rosemania.com/page9.html .....Just scroll down the page a bit till you find Indicate Five.
Don't worry about spraying the underside of the leaves.
It does not work instantly. It takes up to TEN DAYS to kill all the mites and eggs.

Wait 10-14 days and if you see any mites spray again.


This is how they spray crops as mentioned above. They only need to spray once to keep an orchard relatively mite free. This product is used on cherries and grapes under a different label. Produced by the same company in different facilities. They do this so one can be labeled for ornamental and the other for crops. It's fine on crops because we don't burn cherries and grapes like we do with weed.


Cheers

Nice info i'll make sure to mix some dishsoap or something with it. Rooms gonne be empty 1-2 months so i hope they starve to death though forbid could cut that time to 1 month for sure from what im gathering here.
 
I used chemical pesticides and fungicides for years, certain ones work better than others.
Forbid 4f will kill everything in two applications max. it is the most effective mite killer i have come across.

That being said if you work a little IPM into you schedule you should never need to use these harsh chemicals again.

ive been pest and mold free for almost two years using no chemicals.

Thats my goal im gonna try to establish some predatory mites to intergrate into a ipm just gotta figure out how to make a micro habitat fot them. Im releasing a bunch around my property too to hopefully kill them before they get inside.
 
120 should have had losses, how tall are your plants?

If they are too tall you won’t have enough heat to be effective on the lower part of the plant.

You can lose 3-4 degrees per foot of height, the shorter the better for heat treatment.

I lost the top 50% of my plants that were at 117-118 degrees

About 3ft they were topped once and trained into almost a T shape and form a 2x4ft canopy about 6"thick. I have them in seperate cabs so they could spread out thin and get a lot of airflow. I have some lightly toasted pistils but the plants look great didnt have any severe damage.

The trichomes still look intact im just worried whether or not i baked the potency out ive never done a heat treatment before.
 
As far as forbid/spiromesifen goes, it’s primarily for ornamentals plants. They make a half strength version they claim is safe for strawberries and some other fruit at 26% concentration versus the 43% ornamental forbid version. Other one is called Obercon or something.

First of all even the company says forbid is not meant for food crops.I don’t understand the reasoning that half strength forbid is safe to consume.
Second, there are no studies on the effects of smoked spiromesifen residues in humans, charting new territory there
Also, the half life residue of spiromesifen is 24-86 days depending on the ph of the water it’s mixed with. Light doesn’t break it down at all.

Spent several years at a tree/shrub care company spraying half the time. Had to be a licensed applicator and be able to talk to customers who would question stuff. We would spray between 300-750 gallons a
day on busy days between 10-18 customers
These are the reasons im nervous and might just use bleach, heat and 2 months of starvation. I gotta breathe and sleep in this room and i got 4x 6 inch can fans pushing air and particulates around a lot anything nasty would end up in my lungs eventually.
 
Got a small glimmer of hope.....big time exterminator seems to have put the big hurt on them and maybe coming right after the heat it was the knockout punch. I took a gamble and drenched them minutes after turning off the lights hoping the spray would absorb deeply because of the temps. Leaves are back to normal flattened out and slightly praying at around a 30° angle if i had contact burn id expect it to show up by now. They were running around after the second heat treat but sprayed big time heavily 2x with the max ratio and am pleasantly finding only lifeless corpses:deadhorse

Wars not over just gotta hope the mites or heat havent rendered it impotent. Will monitor and hit em with bte again if need be. I'll post if i find anymore live critters and what i get out of this at the end. Ty for the help again my bud brothers
 
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