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Cash Cropper Strains?
- Thread starter Harry Ballzonya
- Start date
Super Sparkle
Member
Well said post i was using amnesia for a long time and always come threw on yield smell taste and looked more than appealing. Great smoke aswel
I think a lot of people here are a new generation of grower that never had to deal with 1 year in jail for 14g. Yes, if you have a dispensary in your town you are getting it for proper prices, but when an Oz is a class C felony, 50$ an 8th isnt hard to see. Hell 5-6 years ago I couldnt find an Oz for under 400.
Lot's of old varieties have bad reps for many reasons:
New growers try those and screw it up plus posting bad pics
Old growers grew the, when they were young and not great growers
Hard core smokers/borderline addicts want the most potent in the world
More oil/hash extraction going on and they grow for resin/oil yields
Fact is green crack is a simple skunk selection. Not everyone wants a 30% retarded stone/high from 3 hits. Not everyone grows only for oil/hash. Some people still want low odor flowers.
If it was great weed 20 years ago it's still great, just not the "greatest" of today.
Fact is some people grow brick weed seed and still get good product because they cared for it very well.
Most people in my community never ever knew the variety of weed they bought/smoked.
New growers try those and screw it up plus posting bad pics
Old growers grew the, when they were young and not great growers
Hard core smokers/borderline addicts want the most potent in the world
More oil/hash extraction going on and they grow for resin/oil yields
Fact is green crack is a simple skunk selection. Not everyone wants a 30% retarded stone/high from 3 hits. Not everyone grows only for oil/hash. Some people still want low odor flowers.
If it was great weed 20 years ago it's still great, just not the "greatest" of today.
Fact is some people grow brick weed seed and still get good product because they cared for it very well.
Most people in my community never ever knew the variety of weed they bought/smoked.
PDX Dopesmoker
Active member
Blue Dream is the standard conventional wisdom answer to this question
master kusher
Active member
I have some beans of a mother that had little to no smell, and after being dried resembled brick weed. :O
The Highland
New member
These threads have been the same since at least 2009, but each round a new group of clueless newbies and clueless old heads chime in
PDX Dopesmoker
Active member
nice to see a friendly familiar face in this thread
U
Ununionized
I grew out some Super Silver Haze that was a multiple time pretty hard hitter, but it didn't make a lot of poundage. I let it grow, for month, after month after month and it just kept producing flowers for - I dunno how long maybe five months? Finally, they kinda gave it up and stopped building, and began to die. Well - that was one time. That time, I had them on a porch that faced south and I leaned em over a fair amount so they'd bush up some.
I grew some standard Big Bud and it made a BUNCHA weed. It's not the longest lasting weed but it's fairly occupying to your mind, as a stone.
I grew some White Rhino, and it did ok, itself. Fat, tight buds, it ate like a horse, consuming what the Big Bud was being fed, and it got to be about 65% the size of the Big Bud. My girlfriend at the time liked that stuff for it's intense pain killing stone where she could just chill out and nap after a hard day at work.
When you're gonna grow a whole shitload of weed in a small spot, there's a couple of things to know ahead of time.
The first one is that as long as they're in vegetative state you can probably bank on fungus not being much of a problem. Like - some people use mist or spray to drive back any potential mites. Mites do best and like it where it's dry, and one of the easiest and healthiest ways to keep mites of a plant is just mist the thing three or four times a day.
But - then comes the other thing.
When those babies start making flowers, you need to have not just plans but real working ones for getting a LOT of air into those buds. The buds, will make so much moisture that when you shake the limbs, water will just come pouring out of em falling to the ground.
This is for cash cropper type plants where they just grow so dense anyway, it's great.
So you need to have plans in mind about that. Whenever I grew inside and lay the plants down and let them get really thick, what I do is feed them plenty of sulfur - which affects taste - and I fan the shit out of them PLUS, ever time I can think to do it which typically of course is gonna be almost every day for a little home garden - I shake the buds and get the water out of them.
Also if you are gonna do your best to max out the spot, plant fewer plants, and lay them down, over and over. Auxin training is a big part of guerrilla growing because of the multiple advantages it provides.
The drawback to it, is that it's very labor intensive if you do it so much that the plants' weights are highly impacted.
When plants grow they have multiple, simplistic methods for ascertaining the nature of the outward environment and one of the things they check in themselves is relative height of various growing locations along the branches.
They do this through simple water pressure. Wherever water pressure is higher - elevation's lower, inside the plant.
The plants can tell to within just a couple of inches differences in height, and they create their own natural in-the-wild shape through manipulating how much Auxin, the main growth hormone, is being produced in each little green growing site or maybe node is the word.
When nodes grow, they add branch length then steer toward light. In this way they head upward daily, and by varying the growth hormone to each part the plants of the world affect their own shapes. They curl by growing one side of a row of cells larger than the other and over time spirals occur.
This kinda stuff is hardwired into the plant, and when plants assume a natural shape, it's usually so they can make food, and so they can breed; and when pot assumes it's own natural shape,
it tends to send a spike or two upward and then all around that, have branches alternating off the stem and these others, - they don't grow as tall as that one or two spikes typical for a plant.
And the plant controlling this, attempts to put up a large bud, into the wind, so as many seed sites form and can be pollenated as possible.
If something happens and that stalk gets knocked down the plant tests for which growing nodes are highest and it starts making all them form the maximum amount of auxin, the strain can create with the nutrition at hand, and it starts racing these upward to get into the wind in time for pollen that comes along from male plants.
What you can do, and the effect varies from plant to plant but it's the same mechanism in them all, - even not cannabis plants - with obviously some variables - it's the same auxin driven chemistry scheme is what I'm tryin to say..
is you can level, the top of the plant, by leaning limbs. This has the name ''Low Stress Training'' and can be used to increase your total mass quite a bit and it also lends another effect: it makes the buds down at the bottom of the plant, the little popcorn buds that grow way down, and which often don't get very ripe and fully mature -
it makes them much more mature and basically, they all get nearly identical to the largest buds at the top of the plant, if you really keep tying the plant down like crazy, all it's life.
What happens is the branches get so thick you just despair of continuing to lay stuff down in such way that you can find places for all the buds.
And almost everyone gives up trying to keep them tied absolutely, obsessive-compulsively, level as possible.
But if you will keep a plant that's say - 6 feet long, laid down on it's side till the entire plant's crowning out and everything is about two feet high,
it will fill out an enormous space that's about - 5 X 6 or so - and the entire thing will be a sea of these medium sized buds at the top, which you have - when you're really playing dueling robots with the plant, it's chemistry which is always sensing if anything grows higher by chance, so it can FLOOD it with more growth hormone - it takes about 36 hours for it to sort out a difference in height of about 2 inches, inch and a half, two inches, the plant will sense where is growing higher and it'll start flooding that part with growth hormone but
much much
more importantly,
it'll STOP telling everything below that point
to produce as much growth hormone as genetically it can.
And this is how you cheat the machine so to speak. If you keep on laying the plant down day after day, right up to the day you chop it - you can easily make one plant, create a sea of very tight, very vigorous and mature buds from the lowest ones that are at the bottom all the way to the top;
and this effect of making every, single bud site on the plant mature, swiftly means that you actually wind up with a lot of smokable material that is just as potent as the buds on top.
Like I say, this effect of maximizing the growth rate through the entire plant like that is named auxin manipulation or auxin training, or low stress training. Whatever else people are doing,
when the plant is responding,
it's always trying to enforce the auxin regulated grown of buds I described.
Buds at the very tips of limbs are considered dominant in plants, and their relative height amid the total tier of growing bud sites, or growing node is part of the plant's internal calculus, however it figures out what to do because it's a cannabis plant.
The growing tips of the various limbs' heights are what affect the plants' perception of it's own shape: and plants of this type, tend to put those branch ends tilted up, where the tips are facing the sky, in classical light-seeking plant mechanics.
Somewhere in the plant's scheme for arranging itself is provision for the buds at the tips of the limbs to then ration auxin production along their own limb: and knowledge of this control mechanism's existence, helps you recognize what you're seeing, when you painstakingly lay a limb down, over and over -
and find that all along the limb, new growth and new buds are proliferating outward all along the limb: right back to the main stem.
So - what the sorta lesson winds up being is,
is that auxin controls plant shape for breeding by getting spikes ready to replace one, tallest one it'll typically depend on to make the most seeds.
Other limb tips will get up there around it, so pollen can fall on them too,
and if the tallest one breaks off, the next tallest resumes production of maximum growth hormone and maximum local growth, and the others all assume their relative places in the plant's scheme for keeping some backup limbs ready to shoot up - but really feeding the tallest growth regions, the most food from the roots, because they're just a lot more likely to have wind drop some pollen on them.
If you lay a plant down, a tall one - when it's first sprouted - when it's over, you'll have a big plant about - oh, it varies but typically this'll be about 5X5 or so - and the entire plane on top will be a sea of buds, you have judiciously tried your best, to keep all the same size by leveling, leveling, leveling...
When it's over the plants' physiology will have an odd form. All the budding sites, along every single limb, will be covered with tight, mature, potent buds; none of which is really large, because you kept tipping the largest ones down so the others could catch up.
This kind of training is low stress training cause there's no damaging the plant by pinching growing spots, or breaking limbs then letting them repair. It avoids the growth slowdown plants engage in when they're damaged, diverting nutrition to repair broken tissues so disease doesn't well up and overwhelm the organism.
You can make this a lot easier by suspending some kind of fence over the plant and this is called the ''screen of green'' or s.c.r.o.g. [scrog] way of growing.
The problem with tight tying to screens is the wood of the plant grows around it so a lot of people suspend a bunch of strings back and forth across where the plant grows and tie to that.
Another thing people do which is what I do sometimes, is to sit the planter on a square of fence, and then as time goes by, use cheap brown twine to tie limbs down to that square of fence. When you set up the fence below the plant, this is called a reverse scrog.
Reverse scrogs are done different ways. Sometimes people affix the piece of fence to the top of the planter as with poking holes in the top of a 5 gal bucket, and zip-tying or wiring a piece of fence to it so as the plant grows, you can tie to it over and over.
This method works well if you have to move the plants because it's all one integrated unit.
The other method I often rely on is to simply lay a piece of fence - I often use an old gate I have - over the plant, to flatten it - and then I use string, or wire, whatever is in sight around my garage when I walk out to the plants - to tie down and even further level the plants.
This might sound counter-intuitive so I can tell you how it works.
My gate is for a ranch gate so it's got a square of 2X4s and old hinges on one side hanging off, old latch on the other side: and it's made out of just a big square of stock wire that has a wooden cross piece.
When I lay the plant down along the course of it's life, I'm constantly doing that little bit of extra tying, to do what? Well - to tie limbs out of the way so when I lay the gate down, everything is out of the way of the repeating squares of wire.
So every few days, what I wind up doing, is I sorta turn the gate. The same 6 X 6 inch repeating checkerboard pattern is still there, but I just shifted it a little bit so I have a little better flattening of the plant overall.
So at the end of the season, I have been using this gate, and another big heavy piece of iron grate, to gently lie on the plants, all day, every day. Typically I'm growing two, three, four plants so between the leaning and tucking and flattening and some tying,
when it's over each plant will be roughly 3 X 4 or 5, to as big as 5 X 6 - even 6 feet by 6 feet sometimes but not usually for me. I don't really manage my plants' nutrition with best growth in mind so sometimes my nutrition's a little lackluster.
So if you want to grow a lot of weed in a small space consider that. This also gives the obvious advantage that if there's a chance someone could see, a six foot fence or maybe a 4 foot high stack of pallets over in one corner of the yard, blocking the view to the road, can be hiding over a pound of high potency weed growing in a spot that's - you know - 6 feet by maybe 18 feet.
What I tend to do is grow them in Hempy Buckets comprising 70% perlite, and 30% coco fiber. I shade the buckets by building up a little pile of pallets on the south side where the sun passes.
Then as the season progresses, I move these plants around the yard, splitting up how they are bunched: so that each season as cars pass by my place and people glance over, they don't see some kind of ''mysteriously symmetrical pile of old yard stuff'' sitting there constantly with a forgotten watering can or wire gate leaned against it. Sometimes there's a pile of stuff there, sometimes it's gone.
When that's combined with the fact that at first, all I have to do is throw a blanket over the lawn mower and park it there - the perception never builds up in my neighbors' minds that there's a certain part of the yard I have suspiciously out of sight.
I have a raised cinder block bed that I sometimes grow some vegetables in, and as the season goes on, I let everyone see the beds back in the back lot there, having a few tomatoes and other rather small plants growing in them. Behind that are my five gallon Hempy buckets with their plants.
Then as the season progresses I put up one, then another pallet on top of the beds, and theatrically thread a couple of the tomatoes over them that I've let get grow awhile.
I dont put up more than one at a time, and I make sure that the largest tomato and cucumber plants always get the pallet I stand up in the middle of the bed, and secure upright with baling wire and little stakes at the edge of the bed. If they're not long enough, I leave the space open, till it's time.
The view that this gives is the result of an old man who's been a pot warrior and law man knowing just what fools the human eye. My yard's look, is expertly cultivated to make sure that people perceive themselves as looking right through my yard, - from a respectable distance nowadays which makes it all a lot less dicey situation -
and that the yard doesn't seem to be being manipulated by me to conform to some visual manipulation like there would be for a pool or other personal area where someone might expect some privacy and try to grow some pot.
This also really relieves a lot of the feeling that I seem to be working a lot to keep the pot down low enough and maximize growth. The plants that are really bigger producers tend to have thick fat limbs and they will start blocking each others' motion; so what you usually have around, are some sticks and tape so if a limb cracks you can tie it back together so it can repair and critters can't exploit your plant. Broken limbs happen.
When they do, go to the point of exploiting this by keeping your piece bent to the degree you can for the damage you've done and tying the broken parts back together. A lot of times what happens is when the plants are just taking off for real, you break one limb, on a plant, twice, early on, trying to horse it around and grow opposite.
Nowadays they have a technique for doing this where they make the plant have several, equally divided heads, from the get-go, but I haven't ever used it, because I do my best, to not ever damage the plant, even once. Every break is a pause to heal so I try to avoid that like the plaque, and then just absorb whatever minor losses do come, when I have to do a little breakage.
When the plant collapses over and doesn't break, if you don't straighten out that 'hurd' inside the straw of the stem, it won't be able to resume nutritional flow nearly as easily, so you just get it back round, prop it where you want it, nursing your bend along so you can damage everything the least possible but get something troublesome out growing where it's production isn't gonna get in the way of another limb.
Anyway - this really improves the production of your plants according to the strain, and it can make your production of your space a lot higher, with a LOT less danger of someone seeing it having pot in it.
I grew some standard Big Bud and it made a BUNCHA weed. It's not the longest lasting weed but it's fairly occupying to your mind, as a stone.
I grew some White Rhino, and it did ok, itself. Fat, tight buds, it ate like a horse, consuming what the Big Bud was being fed, and it got to be about 65% the size of the Big Bud. My girlfriend at the time liked that stuff for it's intense pain killing stone where she could just chill out and nap after a hard day at work.
When you're gonna grow a whole shitload of weed in a small spot, there's a couple of things to know ahead of time.
The first one is that as long as they're in vegetative state you can probably bank on fungus not being much of a problem. Like - some people use mist or spray to drive back any potential mites. Mites do best and like it where it's dry, and one of the easiest and healthiest ways to keep mites of a plant is just mist the thing three or four times a day.
But - then comes the other thing.
When those babies start making flowers, you need to have not just plans but real working ones for getting a LOT of air into those buds. The buds, will make so much moisture that when you shake the limbs, water will just come pouring out of em falling to the ground.
This is for cash cropper type plants where they just grow so dense anyway, it's great.
So you need to have plans in mind about that. Whenever I grew inside and lay the plants down and let them get really thick, what I do is feed them plenty of sulfur - which affects taste - and I fan the shit out of them PLUS, ever time I can think to do it which typically of course is gonna be almost every day for a little home garden - I shake the buds and get the water out of them.
Also if you are gonna do your best to max out the spot, plant fewer plants, and lay them down, over and over. Auxin training is a big part of guerrilla growing because of the multiple advantages it provides.
The drawback to it, is that it's very labor intensive if you do it so much that the plants' weights are highly impacted.
When plants grow they have multiple, simplistic methods for ascertaining the nature of the outward environment and one of the things they check in themselves is relative height of various growing locations along the branches.
They do this through simple water pressure. Wherever water pressure is higher - elevation's lower, inside the plant.
The plants can tell to within just a couple of inches differences in height, and they create their own natural in-the-wild shape through manipulating how much Auxin, the main growth hormone, is being produced in each little green growing site or maybe node is the word.
When nodes grow, they add branch length then steer toward light. In this way they head upward daily, and by varying the growth hormone to each part the plants of the world affect their own shapes. They curl by growing one side of a row of cells larger than the other and over time spirals occur.
This kinda stuff is hardwired into the plant, and when plants assume a natural shape, it's usually so they can make food, and so they can breed; and when pot assumes it's own natural shape,
it tends to send a spike or two upward and then all around that, have branches alternating off the stem and these others, - they don't grow as tall as that one or two spikes typical for a plant.
And the plant controlling this, attempts to put up a large bud, into the wind, so as many seed sites form and can be pollenated as possible.
If something happens and that stalk gets knocked down the plant tests for which growing nodes are highest and it starts making all them form the maximum amount of auxin, the strain can create with the nutrition at hand, and it starts racing these upward to get into the wind in time for pollen that comes along from male plants.
What you can do, and the effect varies from plant to plant but it's the same mechanism in them all, - even not cannabis plants - with obviously some variables - it's the same auxin driven chemistry scheme is what I'm tryin to say..
is you can level, the top of the plant, by leaning limbs. This has the name ''Low Stress Training'' and can be used to increase your total mass quite a bit and it also lends another effect: it makes the buds down at the bottom of the plant, the little popcorn buds that grow way down, and which often don't get very ripe and fully mature -
it makes them much more mature and basically, they all get nearly identical to the largest buds at the top of the plant, if you really keep tying the plant down like crazy, all it's life.
What happens is the branches get so thick you just despair of continuing to lay stuff down in such way that you can find places for all the buds.
And almost everyone gives up trying to keep them tied absolutely, obsessive-compulsively, level as possible.
But if you will keep a plant that's say - 6 feet long, laid down on it's side till the entire plant's crowning out and everything is about two feet high,
it will fill out an enormous space that's about - 5 X 6 or so - and the entire thing will be a sea of these medium sized buds at the top, which you have - when you're really playing dueling robots with the plant, it's chemistry which is always sensing if anything grows higher by chance, so it can FLOOD it with more growth hormone - it takes about 36 hours for it to sort out a difference in height of about 2 inches, inch and a half, two inches, the plant will sense where is growing higher and it'll start flooding that part with growth hormone but
much much
more importantly,
it'll STOP telling everything below that point
to produce as much growth hormone as genetically it can.
And this is how you cheat the machine so to speak. If you keep on laying the plant down day after day, right up to the day you chop it - you can easily make one plant, create a sea of very tight, very vigorous and mature buds from the lowest ones that are at the bottom all the way to the top;
and this effect of making every, single bud site on the plant mature, swiftly means that you actually wind up with a lot of smokable material that is just as potent as the buds on top.
Like I say, this effect of maximizing the growth rate through the entire plant like that is named auxin manipulation or auxin training, or low stress training. Whatever else people are doing,
when the plant is responding,
it's always trying to enforce the auxin regulated grown of buds I described.
Buds at the very tips of limbs are considered dominant in plants, and their relative height amid the total tier of growing bud sites, or growing node is part of the plant's internal calculus, however it figures out what to do because it's a cannabis plant.
The growing tips of the various limbs' heights are what affect the plants' perception of it's own shape: and plants of this type, tend to put those branch ends tilted up, where the tips are facing the sky, in classical light-seeking plant mechanics.
Somewhere in the plant's scheme for arranging itself is provision for the buds at the tips of the limbs to then ration auxin production along their own limb: and knowledge of this control mechanism's existence, helps you recognize what you're seeing, when you painstakingly lay a limb down, over and over -
and find that all along the limb, new growth and new buds are proliferating outward all along the limb: right back to the main stem.
So - what the sorta lesson winds up being is,
is that auxin controls plant shape for breeding by getting spikes ready to replace one, tallest one it'll typically depend on to make the most seeds.
Other limb tips will get up there around it, so pollen can fall on them too,
and if the tallest one breaks off, the next tallest resumes production of maximum growth hormone and maximum local growth, and the others all assume their relative places in the plant's scheme for keeping some backup limbs ready to shoot up - but really feeding the tallest growth regions, the most food from the roots, because they're just a lot more likely to have wind drop some pollen on them.
If you lay a plant down, a tall one - when it's first sprouted - when it's over, you'll have a big plant about - oh, it varies but typically this'll be about 5X5 or so - and the entire plane on top will be a sea of buds, you have judiciously tried your best, to keep all the same size by leveling, leveling, leveling...
When it's over the plants' physiology will have an odd form. All the budding sites, along every single limb, will be covered with tight, mature, potent buds; none of which is really large, because you kept tipping the largest ones down so the others could catch up.
This kind of training is low stress training cause there's no damaging the plant by pinching growing spots, or breaking limbs then letting them repair. It avoids the growth slowdown plants engage in when they're damaged, diverting nutrition to repair broken tissues so disease doesn't well up and overwhelm the organism.
You can make this a lot easier by suspending some kind of fence over the plant and this is called the ''screen of green'' or s.c.r.o.g. [scrog] way of growing.
The problem with tight tying to screens is the wood of the plant grows around it so a lot of people suspend a bunch of strings back and forth across where the plant grows and tie to that.
Another thing people do which is what I do sometimes, is to sit the planter on a square of fence, and then as time goes by, use cheap brown twine to tie limbs down to that square of fence. When you set up the fence below the plant, this is called a reverse scrog.
Reverse scrogs are done different ways. Sometimes people affix the piece of fence to the top of the planter as with poking holes in the top of a 5 gal bucket, and zip-tying or wiring a piece of fence to it so as the plant grows, you can tie to it over and over.
This method works well if you have to move the plants because it's all one integrated unit.
The other method I often rely on is to simply lay a piece of fence - I often use an old gate I have - over the plant, to flatten it - and then I use string, or wire, whatever is in sight around my garage when I walk out to the plants - to tie down and even further level the plants.
This might sound counter-intuitive so I can tell you how it works.
My gate is for a ranch gate so it's got a square of 2X4s and old hinges on one side hanging off, old latch on the other side: and it's made out of just a big square of stock wire that has a wooden cross piece.
When I lay the plant down along the course of it's life, I'm constantly doing that little bit of extra tying, to do what? Well - to tie limbs out of the way so when I lay the gate down, everything is out of the way of the repeating squares of wire.
So every few days, what I wind up doing, is I sorta turn the gate. The same 6 X 6 inch repeating checkerboard pattern is still there, but I just shifted it a little bit so I have a little better flattening of the plant overall.
So at the end of the season, I have been using this gate, and another big heavy piece of iron grate, to gently lie on the plants, all day, every day. Typically I'm growing two, three, four plants so between the leaning and tucking and flattening and some tying,
when it's over each plant will be roughly 3 X 4 or 5, to as big as 5 X 6 - even 6 feet by 6 feet sometimes but not usually for me. I don't really manage my plants' nutrition with best growth in mind so sometimes my nutrition's a little lackluster.
So if you want to grow a lot of weed in a small space consider that. This also gives the obvious advantage that if there's a chance someone could see, a six foot fence or maybe a 4 foot high stack of pallets over in one corner of the yard, blocking the view to the road, can be hiding over a pound of high potency weed growing in a spot that's - you know - 6 feet by maybe 18 feet.
What I tend to do is grow them in Hempy Buckets comprising 70% perlite, and 30% coco fiber. I shade the buckets by building up a little pile of pallets on the south side where the sun passes.
Then as the season progresses, I move these plants around the yard, splitting up how they are bunched: so that each season as cars pass by my place and people glance over, they don't see some kind of ''mysteriously symmetrical pile of old yard stuff'' sitting there constantly with a forgotten watering can or wire gate leaned against it. Sometimes there's a pile of stuff there, sometimes it's gone.
When that's combined with the fact that at first, all I have to do is throw a blanket over the lawn mower and park it there - the perception never builds up in my neighbors' minds that there's a certain part of the yard I have suspiciously out of sight.
I have a raised cinder block bed that I sometimes grow some vegetables in, and as the season goes on, I let everyone see the beds back in the back lot there, having a few tomatoes and other rather small plants growing in them. Behind that are my five gallon Hempy buckets with their plants.
Then as the season progresses I put up one, then another pallet on top of the beds, and theatrically thread a couple of the tomatoes over them that I've let get grow awhile.
I dont put up more than one at a time, and I make sure that the largest tomato and cucumber plants always get the pallet I stand up in the middle of the bed, and secure upright with baling wire and little stakes at the edge of the bed. If they're not long enough, I leave the space open, till it's time.
The view that this gives is the result of an old man who's been a pot warrior and law man knowing just what fools the human eye. My yard's look, is expertly cultivated to make sure that people perceive themselves as looking right through my yard, - from a respectable distance nowadays which makes it all a lot less dicey situation -
and that the yard doesn't seem to be being manipulated by me to conform to some visual manipulation like there would be for a pool or other personal area where someone might expect some privacy and try to grow some pot.
This also really relieves a lot of the feeling that I seem to be working a lot to keep the pot down low enough and maximize growth. The plants that are really bigger producers tend to have thick fat limbs and they will start blocking each others' motion; so what you usually have around, are some sticks and tape so if a limb cracks you can tie it back together so it can repair and critters can't exploit your plant. Broken limbs happen.
When they do, go to the point of exploiting this by keeping your piece bent to the degree you can for the damage you've done and tying the broken parts back together. A lot of times what happens is when the plants are just taking off for real, you break one limb, on a plant, twice, early on, trying to horse it around and grow opposite.
Nowadays they have a technique for doing this where they make the plant have several, equally divided heads, from the get-go, but I haven't ever used it, because I do my best, to not ever damage the plant, even once. Every break is a pause to heal so I try to avoid that like the plaque, and then just absorb whatever minor losses do come, when I have to do a little breakage.
When the plant collapses over and doesn't break, if you don't straighten out that 'hurd' inside the straw of the stem, it won't be able to resume nutritional flow nearly as easily, so you just get it back round, prop it where you want it, nursing your bend along so you can damage everything the least possible but get something troublesome out growing where it's production isn't gonna get in the way of another limb.
Anyway - this really improves the production of your plants according to the strain, and it can make your production of your space a lot higher, with a LOT less danger of someone seeing it having pot in it.
R
Rageous8899
Hey guy. My first indoor run was a 600w hps but i mostly only used the 250 or 400 w setting. I used an autoflower assortment from buddah seeds a pal gave me. Dwc. 5 gal bucket. The 2 that i mistakedly put in one bucket was well over a cutie. Fast. In all fairness its not a great pull for the watt to gram ratio but ive got alot better since and stoppef the autoflower stuff but if you want something fast and your environment can handle the 600 w id say runa few autos few but make sure you run the same strain (harvest,size,nutes) will all be almost the exact same. Some like harvesting 1/3 1/4 at a time to give time to trim and be ready for the next stuff thats ready but if its money..run the same strain. Chop at the same time. Get your next in the closet the day you move your girls out. Sorry i cant give a strain name but like i said the buddahs autoflower assortment was all fire strains. Good nug. But im sure they have tons more about the market these days. Just keep on the lookout. Im currently messing with some genetics i got from seedsman.com. only 170 watts led and im gonna pull about a qp or better in a 2.5×4 closet. Its doable man. Just keep at it. https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=73679
crazy_eagle
Active member
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned juicy fruit,everyone in BC use to grow it with amazing yields!
master kusher
Active member
Flo I got really cheap and read at least 20% ThC.
Drewsif
Member
Id rather smoke JuciyFruit, but cash crop is synonamous with "Hey i know that!" which is the only reason Blue Dream is the #1 legal seller in the states. Always called it American M39,but JuicyFruits a better comparison. People recognize the Blue Dream, it was probably in a rap song at some point.
Anyone with taste won't touch the stuff though. I couldn't sell the shit at all. I cant believe growers were asking the same price as purps. I dont know why but most BD taste like urinal cake, but the dispensary shoppers seem to think it's an improved Blueberry, lol. You really gotta know the customer base to answer Ops question.
Anyone with taste won't touch the stuff though. I couldn't sell the shit at all. I cant believe growers were asking the same price as purps. I dont know why but most BD taste like urinal cake, but the dispensary shoppers seem to think it's an improved Blueberry, lol. You really gotta know the customer base to answer Ops question.
American M39
Aptly named.
Blue Dream is crap.
Aptly named.
Blue Dream is crap.
Harry Ballzonya
Member
I've got to agree, not a fan of Blue Dream or autoflowers for that matter. TBH I had forgotten about this thread lol. I grabbed a bunch of beans and am just gonna find what works best for the way I grow. Funny that a couple of you mentioned the old school strains because that's more than likely what I'll be running. Thanx for the feedback even though I lost the thread for awhile.
bestothebest
Active member
For a real cash cropper get MNS Critical Mass- not any of the critical or critical +, real Critical Mass
Pure Power Plant from Nirvana, excellent yield, done in 9 weeks, and killer sativa high with a stone.
Harry Ballzonya
Member
Never ran this or even seen it. How does it finish up?
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NL5xHz test comparison grow outdoor greenhouse grow
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