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This thread is da peat puck freaks..
- Thread starter Blunt_69
- Start date
I think you are mistaken, Dignan. What makes you think that no nutrients are being taken in that amount of time?
I am fairly certain that Ph can effect the plant from even before the hull opens up.
I am fairly certain that Ph can effect the plant from even before the hull opens up.
Seeds and sprouts have cotyledons for a good reason, which is to store and then provide nutrients while the sprout and its roots are not yet developed to the point of being able to uptake nutrients efficiently. Generally, the larger the seed, the larger the cotyledon... the larger the cotyledon, the longer the sprout/seedling can go without uptaking nutrients.
But beyond the mere existence of cotyledon suggesting that an external nutrient source isn't necessary until the cotyledons turn yellow and drop, my personal experience (i.e. the fact that I never bother pHing the solution that I germinate seeds in or clone in) seems to point to the fact that pH isn't much of a concern during the first week or two of a cannabis seedling's life.
What you are saying isn't totally out of left-field though. There are many people who agree with you. And I'm always open to listening and learning. Especially to a fellow ex-Hoosier.
Peace-
Dig
But beyond the mere existence of cotyledon suggesting that an external nutrient source isn't necessary until the cotyledons turn yellow and drop, my personal experience (i.e. the fact that I never bother pHing the solution that I germinate seeds in or clone in) seems to point to the fact that pH isn't much of a concern during the first week or two of a cannabis seedling's life.
What you are saying isn't totally out of left-field though. There are many people who agree with you. And I'm always open to listening and learning. Especially to a fellow ex-Hoosier.
Peace-
Dig
took my first 5 clones last night using this method. we shall see what happens...
Dig, I think that if your Ph is out of whack too far it can stop a seedling dead in it's tracks. Probably from the time the hull opens. Some breeders warn about seed propagation in out of balanced Ph mediums, specifically coco pucks.
(I'm not koo koo for coco pucks)
And as far as nute uptake, I have a 9 day old thai x skunk1 that is showing signs of nitrogen burn. I cast it in MG mix which has immediately available nitrogen, rather than casting it in a peat puck as I normally would. (doing this following Mandala Mike's recommendations) I don't think the thai is much on nutes anyway and it sure seems to show it with this little seedling. If it weren't taking in nutrients, I doubt it would be an issue no matter how hot the soil was.
But I do agree that the cots serve their purpose, and if there were nothing else, it could subsist on them alone for a time.
(I'm not koo koo for coco pucks)
And as far as nute uptake, I have a 9 day old thai x skunk1 that is showing signs of nitrogen burn. I cast it in MG mix which has immediately available nitrogen, rather than casting it in a peat puck as I normally would. (doing this following Mandala Mike's recommendations) I don't think the thai is much on nutes anyway and it sure seems to show it with this little seedling. If it weren't taking in nutrients, I doubt it would be an issue no matter how hot the soil was.
But I do agree that the cots serve their purpose, and if there were nothing else, it could subsist on them alone for a time.
what time frame does this method take to root?
good deal. thanks
its only day 2 so i got a ways to go yet.
hoosierdaddy said:(I'm not koo koo for coco pucks)QUOTE]
Picked up a flat of them at the Home Depot, did not realize that they were coco pucks until I got them home. I ran 6 of the coco pucks against 30 peat pucks in a cloning trial. Prepped them all the same way---soaked in warm tap water with a splash of fulvic to hydrate them and at the end of ten days five of the clones in coco had kicked the bucket and and only one of the peat puck clones had failed to show roots.
I will be sticking to the peat pucks for the time being, while still experimenting w/ the coco pucks to see what works best when using them.
All in all the peat pucks seem to be the easiest medium I have used to clone in, they dont need as much attention as the rapid rooters--rewetting--and are cheap as sh*t.
The pic shows happy peat puck clones on the right and 2 coco clones on the left(in the whiter mesh)
I think it's the Ph that can be all out of whack with the coco pucks.
I checked the ph and tds of the run off from a squeezed puck, heres what I found.
Ph of tap water--7.1
ph of run off from coco puck---6.5
tds of tap water---210ppm
tds of run off from coco puck---230ppm
Does not seem to out of whack, but next time around the coco pucks will get hydrated with staight tap water, then squeezed and resaturated with water phed to 6.3. Starting to be kind of a pain in the a$$, considering the peat pucks are good to go with no fuss.
As side note--the coco pucks did seem to dry faster and I would rewet them every couple days....Maybe the technique just needs to be tweaked slightly...I will keep you all posted with my trials and errors.
Ph of tap water--7.1
ph of run off from coco puck---6.5
tds of tap water---210ppm
tds of run off from coco puck---230ppm
Does not seem to out of whack, but next time around the coco pucks will get hydrated with staight tap water, then squeezed and resaturated with water phed to 6.3. Starting to be kind of a pain in the a$$, considering the peat pucks are good to go with no fuss.
As side note--the coco pucks did seem to dry faster and I would rewet them every couple days....Maybe the technique just needs to be tweaked slightly...I will keep you all posted with my trials and errors.
shit takes forever haha
for shits and grins, what's the LONGEST it ever took to root some clones that actually did end up rooting?
2buds
Active member
Peat pucks rock fellas. I've been using them over 3 years. Still cloning and budding the same strains. I like to use a gallon of distilled water with A DROP OF SUPERTHRIVE added for initial soaking. I made a shelf in my veg room over my 400mh that stays warm. WARM temps is the key with these things. I tried them out in the common chamber over the winter where temps get real cool and they weren't happy. I also like to lift the dome for a few minutes and fan some fresh air in there each day. To much humidity is not good. Dryer air seems to make the plant root quicker, like its worried its about to die since the leaves can't get enough moisture from the air. If you mold up inside your tray/dome just clean it good with a bleach solution before using it again, keeps it from coming back. A 2' 4 bulb T5 is a great fit over the tray. Some roots and a few new shoots and they are off to potting and vegging for a few weeks. I still trim back my leaves on my cuttings so things aren't so cluttered inside the dome. I also use a small piece of masking tape and a sharpie for labels, they stick to the side of the peat pellet just fine and peel right off when transplanting. Keep it green fellas.
You know what I noticed? I noticed that having too weak of lights during cloning seems to make things take longer. Seems like having the bulb an ideal distance away pumps the roots out fastest, although I'm not 100% sure on this yet. Just seemed like when I had the light far away, it took forever although other environmental conditions were slightly different as well.
