Indoor mmj in process

McKush · Dec 7, 2013

Moved from the Coco subforum as the thread is more room build oriented rather than grow medium focused.

overview
Indoor mmj setup for two patients myself and my father. All about creating the best medicines possible with self reliance and medicinal quality and purity as goals.

Coco coir growth medium (maybe some hydroton too) and DTW.

flower room will be dedicated, sealed, and most likely finished with cement board and white tile for easy clean up and sterialization.

I am roughing in the FR now and will have at least 5'x6'x10' or 300 cu feet, 30 sq. ft. will probably grow a smaller area than that thp 4x4 most likely.

lighting for FR is ePapillion 1000W Pro with the awesome Philips DE bulb. will be vegging with the dPap 315W fixture I think.

plan to veg with the veg bulb in the dPap, switch to the dPap with Greenpower Philips bulb, then into the FR for a 600W to 1150W bloom time!

i want the philips de bulb so im excavating to 10' min ceiling. will insulate and seal the room.

FR and veg space is in a small attached shed being remodeled into a studio for my music. So on top of this all i am soundproofing the space as well.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update 20140121 - Several changes have been made to the room before the design was finalized. I am no longer going to have a large veggie
space. Veggie Room (VR) will be a small closet 18"Wx48"Lx27"H this is going to be underneath the "ledge". The Ledge was old VR space now
given to the FR to make the FR 5'Wx6'Lx10'H this is known as the "pit" and also a section on the "ledge". The Ledge is 3'Wx5'Lx7.8'H.
I won't be using a Dpap anymore, that was abandoned when I reconfigured to current dimensions to get a better W/sqft.

Sooo FR is really more like 5'Wx9'L with two heights 10' and 7.8'. I will be able to remove a section of the floor to make and even deeper FR too.

DrySiftWizard · Dec 7, 2013

Quality and purity are words I like to hear, friend.

This can be made using the dry sift technique I shared on this forum. It's in the hashish sub, here:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=269179

As I already replied via PM, you are more than welcome to pick my brain if you'd like.

I have been through the progression from 2, 4, 6, etc.. up to 16+ lights and everything in between and everything involved. People completely underestimate how much these 1kw bulbs can heat up when you start to add a bunch of them and don't have enough air moving through the room. If you are cooling your hoods that is one thing.. but a lot of people do not, and it makes me sick to my stomach when I see it.

Fried babies = no bueno. The cooler the temps on the surface the closer you can get your lights. The closer you can get your lights the better your product is going to end up. Bud density is basically directly related to light intensity. You can make fluffy strains.. not fluffy.. if you do it right.

If you run too much light and not enough oxygen you will starve your plants. You won't notice it by eye unless you've seen rooms done otherwise.

They will metabolize as much as they can given the oxygen and the light. Not enough of one or the other and you're just spinning your wheels.

Need to balance it out, have an equal pressure in your rooms, i.e. no negative pressure, or positive so it won't smell.. etc.

Lots of people don't figure it out for quite a while. Skip all that and do it right the first damn time.

McKush · Dec 7, 2013

Beauty first pic Dry. What is she?

the gnome · Dec 7, 2013

go for it mckush!
we talked about it, I love it(and envious) your going with the tile :good:

i know your not at this point yet but look into prodex insulation.

Prodex Difference: Energy Star Qualified : ICC-ES Recognized : R 16 unaffected by humidity : Prevents condensation : Prevents 97% of radiant heat transfer : Vapor barrier : Core sealed on both 175' side with flange : Elastic : 19dba contact noise reduction : 90 degree celsius (194 fahrenheit) contact temperature rating : UV resistance : Does not promote mold or mildew : Does not provide for nesting of rodents, bugs or birds : Seals around nails (no leak) : Reflective aluminum foil on each side of 5mm (13/64) closed-cell polyethylene foam center : Keeps its shape over time (doesn't collapse) : Rippled surface increases airflow : Member of US Green Building Council - Made with 100% recyclable virgin raw materials .

DrySiftWizard · Dec 7, 2013

McKush said:
Beauty first pic Dry. What is she?

That was a Purple Kush clone from down in Oakland (3rd floor).

Never had any issues with it.. always great product. Little pricey, but eh.

McKush · Dec 9, 2013

the gnome said:
go for it mckush!
we talked about it, I love it(and envious) your going with the tile
i know your not at this point yet but look into prodex insulation.

Prodex Difference: Energy Star Qualified : ICC-ES Recognized : R 16 unaffected by humidity : Prevents condensation : Prevents 97% of radiant heat transfer : Vapor barrier : Core sealed on both 175' side with flange : Elastic : 19dba contact noise reduction : 90 degree celsius (194 fahrenheit) contact temperature rating : UV resistance : Does not promote mold or mildew : Does not provide for nesting of rodents, bugs or birds : Seals around nails (no leak) : Reflective aluminum foil on each side of 5mm (13/64) closed-cell polyethylene foam center : Keeps its shape over time (doesn't collapse) : Rippled surface increases airflow : Member of US Green Building Council - Made with 100% recyclable virgin raw materials .

*** i know your not at this point yet but look into prodex insulation. ***

Heya Gnome - dude, I am at that point! Got to do a building supply run in a bit and I'll check. Otherwise I'm prolly going with 2" blue styrafoam insulation and tons of fiberglass insulation.

hehe been woodchukin' it like a deranged mole. Dig and stage the dirt, then dump at night. Cover the expelled overdig with snow to camo it and oila. looks like it did yesterday at dawn's break...
Literally dumping dirt at 12:30a, then shower and bed each night... lol one time pain man, one time pain.

McKush · Dec 9, 2013

Been working on ventilation final design and utilities for the FR. Decisions, decisions. I can bring fresh air in from the outside via any size duct I want to the FR. I can also bring in air from the studio area - the FR is just a sealed room within another sealed and soundproofed room - so I can bring in treated air too (i.e. fresh into the studio then warm and into the FR.)

So I have two possible ventilation approaches - or I could do both. Which I will not do as that would be a mistake! at least at the same time.

What I'm thinking about doing and very much need expert advice is to put in ventilation from outside and also from within the studio area both. Ah but you think I'm doing what I just said I would not do....???? knife valves people. I can set it up so that I can manually or even automatically change between outside air or studio air by moving two knife valves on/off.

Anyone see, do anything similar? Overkill? (maybe, wtf?, i'm doing the work so don't get your panties hiked up.) Or genius? seriously need feedback by experts with practical knowledge.

Onlookers please keep doing just that, if you do not understand HVAC and ventilation then I probably don't need your help. Just saying. And I've also been known to politely ignore help, so hey I'm my own man and will make the final call, cool, but I have to make that call today...

I've decided to post a few sanitized pics. Will only entertain questions I want to answer and not being a prick but I'll only share what I want you to know.

McKush · Dec 10, 2013

Decision time folks so it is 8" direct into the FR from outside. I will feed the studio area on ots own 8" intake using a novel design I winged in me own noggin whilst tramping the aisles of McLowes.

McKush · Dec 10, 2013

By the way build pics and floorplan design or some version of what I think i'm doing in my ic album. Indoor mmj in process

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=49413

Buddler · Dec 14, 2013

McKush said:
Decision time folks so it is 8" direct into the FR from outside. I will feed the studio area on ots own 8" intake using a novel design I winged in me own noggin whilst tramping the aisles of McLowes.

Mckush how goes the build ? if your in cold climate 8 in. direct from outside to F R might be too cold shock the plants need a lung room. Bunker is lookin nice .

Bud

McKush · Dec 16, 2013

Buddler said:
Mckush how goes the build ? if your in cold climate 8 in. direct from outside to F R might be too cold shock the plants need a lung room. Bunker is lookin nice . Bud

Hey Budler, how you doing? Freezing your tits per chance? I am, Freakie Deakie Cold (FDC) here. Been rockn' Neil alot lately because of you. Told my son about Neil and how he looks like he is perpetually about to shat himself up on stage when he performs... (pretty easy to imitate Neil imo).. lol I had him rolling, and side splitting.

Anyway, thanks for your comments re the intake. I'm worried about the same thing. I'm really worried that I just do not know HVAC well enough to pull off a thought out design.

I have 3 rooms to take care of. I can use my studio to pre-treat the supply to both rooms. I can design in a knife valve to switch between the outside 8" short run into the FR, or a ton of options with DIY 8" knife valves and 8"/6" heavy duty stove pipe type rigid ducting (my preference for lowest coefficient of drag, or some such shit.)

anyone with knowledge is more than welcome right now to PM me or post here.

McKush

McKush · Dec 18, 2013

Im down to 122" or 10'2" ceiling to top of floor joist on my first post. Not sure if I should continue to dig... my finish height is just shy by 2" if I do not keep digging.

McKush · Dec 18, 2013

I must say lonely thread and a bit disappointed by the lack of help. Maybe this is just uninteresting. Ok im building a 100,000kazillionbazillionmegafartywatt grow room for minature ponies....

Peace

justanotherbozo · Dec 18, 2013

McKush said:
I must say lonely thread and a bit disappointed by the lack of help. Maybe this is just uninteresting. Ok im building a 100,000kazillionbazillionmegafartywatt grow room for minature ponies....

Peace

...i think you'll notice that folks are looking, ...but we're all pic whores around here, so without pictures your thread has no 'drag', if you will.

...can you dig it?

peace, bozo

McKush · Dec 18, 2013

Yeah I get it. I put up an album and linked to it. Embedding them inline is a drag. Was hoping to get some expert ventilation help but alas not to be. But truth be told - I will figure it out with or without help as thats just the way that I yam. I yam what I yam and thats all tha I yam man.. lol

Does seem like the number of point light sources is somehow more relevant here than just a well designed individual room. Im not interested in production or profit. Best quality and purety folks and a space solid and safe enough for a lifetime is what im about.

McKush · Dec 18, 2013

Ok, ok so it has been suggested to me that my threads suck, and that, in fact I should go jump from nearest high cliff. And also apparently you babies can not go look at an album without feigning finger stress fracture to get there....

Early picture of studio & indoor growing area space. Construction had started by now.

The only help I had in doing the remodel and he didn't say much or do jack shit. Likes to watch me work, ask him to help and the fucker jumps into a pond.

This is the ceiling after it was underway.
The black strip is firestone rubber pond lining cut into strips and stapled 5 thick or a little over 1/4". The rubber is to help isolate the low frequencies. The two layers of green glue and three layers of wall material will help stop all the high frequencies. Low freqs are a bitch!

Give you an idea of how I used the rubber on the joists. it really helps to seal the joints also. Used plenty of accoustic sealant! Do NOT apply green glue to black firestone rubber, it does NOT work! Dry rubber layers is awesome tho.

First coarse of 3/4" ply is installed. Chaulked for the next layer of 3/4" ply... then a layer of 5/8" moisture resistant greenboard will go up (prolly use 5/8" cement board for ceiling of FR but may just stay with the lighter greenboard. I'm getting too old for this shit.

McKush · Dec 18, 2013

Another picture showing two walls of studio space that adjoin the house. I have gone to great pains to minimize studio-to-house-structure-contact in order to provide as much of a free standing & air gap as possible. I only have ONE chance to properly soundproof. After that no second chances. Believe me when I say I have agonized over certain design elements...

the white stripes are accoustic sealant. This is overkill since I will be installing a wall on top of that 2x4 base plate. the interior house side of this wall will also be sealed with 3/4" ply and then fiberglass insulation, then the 2 1/8" sandwhich wall previously described.

This is a section where I used the side of a stud to figure out how many laminations of the rubber to use. I am using 4 on some surfaces and 5 on others. thick 1/4" rubber barrier to knock down the low freqs.

Idea of what lifting 4x8 3/4" ply drizzled with three contractor size tubes of GG (green glue, last time I'm writing that.)

Indoor mmj in process

Éirinn go Brách

Member

Éirinn go Brách

Active member

Member

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Well-known member

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Active member

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách

Éirinn go Brách