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Best product for russet/broad mites

IngFarmer

Active member
thanks soo much, will be applying other miticides too to not give them chance to build resistance!

Thanks everybody a whole lot!!!
 

andl

Member
Most hardware and garden/feed stores should have wettable sulfur powder/fungicide sprays, order online if cant find locally.

Hemp Russet Information From Certified Kind (Wa states 3rd party Organic certification program):

Hemp Russet Mite (Aculops cannabicola) is a type of microscopic arthropod that feeds on leaves, new growth, flower buds, and on glandular trichomes of cannabis (Petanovic, 2007). Hemp Russet Mite belongs to the Eriophyidae family of mites which are economically significant crop pests in citrus, apples, grapes, hazelnuts, coconuts, and tomatoes. Symptoms of Hemp Russet Mite damage can be confused with nutrient deficiencies, viruses, and physiological disorders (Van Leeuen, 2010). Hemp Russet Mite has the potential to be a major pest issue for medical and adult-use cannabis production. Hemp Russet Mite infestations have been reported in both indoor and outdoor legalized cannabis production in California, Oregon, Colorado, and Washington. Hemp Russet Mites are closely related and belong to the same genus as the Tomato Russet Mite. Studies of the Tomato Russet Mite show that russet mite populations are suppressed under very cold temperatures or under high temperatures above 86 degrees F (Gerson, 2012). In areas with very cold winters, pest populations decline dramatically. However, most cannabis growers clone plants from mother plants that are held indoors or in greenhouses where temperatures rarely drop below freezing.

Russet mites on mother plants can be passed along to clones. As legalized cannabis production expands, many cannabis producers are acquiring cloned plants from other farms or nurseries and may be inadvertently introducing hemp russet mite onto their farms. If growers don’t understand how to spot Hemp Russet Mite damage and deal with it using natural and organic approved control strategies, they risk severe reduction in crop yield and quality. This article will explain how to recognize the symptoms of Hemp Russet Mite damage and will discuss several options for controlling the Hemp Russet Mite using practices and pest control materials that are approved in organic farming systems.

How to Spot Leaf Damage Caused by Hemp Russet Mite:

Hemp Russet Mite is a manageable pest if outward signs and symptoms of an infestation are recognized early. The mite is difficult to observe, even with a hand lens. You really need a microscope to see this pest. But growers can teach themselves to recognize characteristic leaf damage and flower damage, and respond with appropriate organic pest control strategies. Good farmers can detect subtle changes in plants because they understand the life cycle of the crop and its pests. They know what normal plant growth looks like and can spot abnormalities quickly. The key to successful pest control is frequent scouting and recognizing pest damage.

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Controlling Hemp Russet Mites:

A non-toxic approach to dealing with many mite and insect pests is to introduce their predators into areas with known infestations. Commercially available beneficial predatory mites that have been shown to prey on Russet Mite include Neoseiulus californicus, Ambylseius andersoni, and Amblyseius swirskii. The soil dwelling generalist mite, Stratiolaelaps scimitus feeds on fungus gnat larvae, pupating thrip, pathogenic nematodes, and larval stages of root aphid. This predator mite may help to create a barrier at the soil surface and prevent hemp russet mite and broad mite from crawling up plant stalks to the leaves. Fighting pest mites with predator mites can be especially effective in indoor settings where temperature and humidity can be manipulated to help the released predator mite survive. For example, the beneficial predatory mite Amblyseius swirskii has been shown to be effective against white flies, spider mites, thrips, broad mites and the Tomato Russet Mite, and works best at temperatures between 72-84 degrees F and 70% humidity. Amblyseius andersoni is active and effective at low humidity and high temperatures and is known to feed on Hemp Russet Mite. Both indoor and greenhouse cannabis growers can re-use their soils, and mulch with straw to provide habitat for predator mites. One of the fundamental activities of any organic farmer is to work with natural cycles to build soil. By enhancing habitat for a diverse array of soil organisms, including predatory mites, cannabis growers can grow vigorous, pest free plants. Outdoor farmers can help establish populations of beneficial insects and arthropods by mulching and planting cover crops and insectary crops.

Certified Kind Approved Organic Pesticides:

Biopesticides include pest control materials that are derived from natural ingredients and include plant derived pest products like neem oil and garlic oil as well as pest control materials derived from
bacteria or fungus like Bacillus thuringiensis or Isaria fumosorosea, respectively. Cannabis farmers have had success combating Hemp Russet Mite using a combination of biopesticides including products that have active ingredients of Chromobacterium subtsugae, neem seed oil, Isaria fumosorosea, and citric acid. Growers have also reported success using plant oils and horticultural oils that work by smothering the mite. Mites in the Eriophyidae family are also known to be sensitive to sulfur. Elemental sulfur sprays have been used to control the Eriophyid mites in citrus groves in Florida since at least the 1930’s (Yothers, 1930). Elemental sulfur is an allowed pesticide in organic farming and is used extensively in modern day organic grape and tomato production to control mites and fungal pathogens. Sulfur is effective against Hemp Russet Mite infestations in cannabis. As with any pesticide, sulfur should be used with care, and applications should follow label instructions including the use of personal protective equipment and re-entry intervals. Although the EPA has established that sulfur pesticides are exempt from the establishment of a residue tolerance on food crops, no research has been conducted about sulfur pesticides used on cannabis intended be smoked or concentrated into an extract. Common sense suggests that farmers should avoid applying sulfur to cannabis during the flower stage. Growers should also not use horticultural oil and sulfur together since that combination will damage plant leaves.
Ideally, cannabis farmers will detect Hemp Russet Mite early and choose natural methods for control. Growers must develop robust, overlapping strategies for prevention of pests like Hemp Russet Mite. Building confidence in dealing with difficult pests like Hemp Russet Mite using natural and organic methods takes dedication, time, and practice yet is an essential and extremely valuable part of organic cannabis farming.




this is a good example, looks like kalium deficiency....


here is what a friend of mine got few grows ago he bought clones from a local shop (in good condition!), but he got infected his plants by putting some palm (clones) into the same tent i told him not to but.... (he wanted to keep em because the palm was from his girlfriend...)



best product to get really really rid of them is a FLAME THROWER.



look...


its called weichhautmilben it s a kind, well or its the brad mite thing but you hardly get rid of it, they hard to see and play hide and seek with you in veggi they like it much, (instead of spidermites) high humidity and middle/cooler temps.


the inject some auxines which lead to deformation and causes crippling of buds and leaves.


they re tricky can even hide in the medium (soil/Coco...) and wait till you re not watching and then strike back !



at day 18-21 of flowering pea sized buds with weathered hairs was stone hard, cut all, cleant it all out.


very well, they re more troublesome than spieder mites in blooming....


PS. for spidermites you need to get "vertimec" its a fungizide (usefull, if not to late sprayed) which is taken up into the plant, and this kills them all, one time sprayed all gone, ever had a big spider mite plague in mid flowering? with hot temps and dry climate = youre gone within 10 days


paided hundreds of bucks for preadtor mites and they cant get it into controll, also you will need a lot more than you expect.


or just get into controll but cannot solve problem itself.


(cleaner room, better conditions, more care/inspection, preventive spraying in veggi, strength plant immunesystem, itself and so on....)



cheers here s the pic
 

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andl

Member
this is a good example, looks like kalium deficiency....


here is what a friend of mine got few grows ago he bought clones from a local shop (in good condition!), but he got infected his plants by putting some palm (clones) into the same tent i told him not to but.... (he wanted to keep em because the palm was from his girlfriend...)



best product to get really really rid of them is a FLAME THROWER.



look...


its called weichhautmilben it s a kind, well or its the brad mite thing but you hardly get rid of it, they hard to see and play hide and seek with you in veggi they like it much, (instead of spidermites) high humidity and middle/cooler temps.


the inject some auxines which lead to deformation and causes crippling of buds and leaves.


they re tricky can even hide in the medium (soil/Coco...) and wait till you re not watching and then strike back !



at day 18-21 of flowering pea sized buds with weathered hairs was stone hard, cut all, cleant it all out.


very well, they re more troublesome than spieder mites in blooming....


PS. for spidermites you need to get "vertimec" its a fungizide (usefull, if not to late sprayed) which is taken up into the plant, and this kills them all, one time sprayed all gone, ever had a big spider mite plague in mid flowering? with hot temps and dry climate = youre gone within 10 days


paided hundreds of bucks for preadtor mites and they cant get it into controll, also you will need a lot more than you expect.


or just get into controll but cannot solve problem itself.


(cleaner room, better conditions, more care/inspection, preventive spraying in veggi, strength plant immunesystem, itself and so on....)



cheers here s the pic




the indoor grow hipppie children horror story :D

ah and yes what they inject is so troublesome because ALL YOUR NEW GROWTH will be affected, and older leafes die anyway so you know what you end up with....


at least when you got these weichhautmilben (german) there re lots of diffrent broad mites (45 speciem)...
 

Stev3

New member
No, not a computer programmer. SSHZ stands for Super Silver Haze, a strain I was widely known for at the beginning when I started growing- 30 years ago.

I'm pretty sure no matter how many predators you put in the room, they won't eradicate the issue. Each mite can lay 1000's of mites in a matter of a few weeks.

Again, my suggestions: 1)cool the room down as much as possible, this will slow down the breeding schedule and give you a chance to get control. Even reduce light intensity if necessary, hopefully below 7-0 degrees. 2) remove the worse of the sun leaves, that have the most eggs on them. 3) each morning go in with a spray bottle and wet down all leaves underneath- the mites hate water. Try to spray hard enough to knock them off the leaves. Do it early so the plants, leaves and buds have a chance to dry before the dark period. 4) Look at Pure Crop 1, it will not damage your plants/buds and will kill mites well. Google it to learn more about it.

When the crop is done (good or bad)- contact me and I'll give you a summary on room/pot cleaning, what to use, and how to go about it to be rid of them. This is the time to use all the nasty chemicals like Avid, Floramite, etc., not when you have active plants.

Hey brother, I know this is a old thread lol I can't dm you maybe because I'm too new to the forum and it won't allow me to. I'm interested in what products you've used to clean the area. I had to to throw out a harvest due to these Russet mites and want to avoid it from happening again. Any help would be appreaciated, thanks!
 

sshz

Well-known member
I've used everything from straight bleach, to Avid and everything in between. What I found out recently is many mites come into the room on the feet of flying insects like whiteflies. I used to think they were in the soil mix or laid dormant in egg form but that's probably not the case. Here's my suggestion:

Buy these products:

Dr. Woods Peppermint Castile Soap
Dr. Woods Tea Tree Castile Soap
70% alcohol
1% hydrogen peroxide

Mix 2 quarts of water, 1/4 cup of both soaps, 1 tablespoon of the peroxide and 1 cup of the alcohol. Mix them together and spray the shit out of everything, including the plants if they are still in veg (or no longer than 1 week into flowering). This mix works on every type of mite, including eggs. It's very effective. I get everything from Amazon, not sure where you live though.

I also soak the pots in the tub in hot water until the water cools. make sure the water covers the pots totally. This will kill any mites or eggs, make sure the water is HOT.

When cleaning the room, I take everything out and start fresh each time. I spray everything including the walls, floor, etc. and clean everything i.e. lights, fans, etc.

In flowering, I would rotate Mighty Wash, Dr. Zymes mite killer and Green Cleaner......
 

Stev3

New member
I've used everything from straight bleach, to Avid and everything in between. What I found out recently is many mites come into the room on the feet of flying insects like whiteflies. I used to think they were in the soil mix or laid dormant in egg form but that's probably not the case. Here's my suggestion:

Buy these products:

Dr. Woods Peppermint Castile Soap
Dr. Woods Tea Tree Castile Soap
70% alcohol
1% hydrogen peroxide

Mix 2 quarts of water, 1/4 cup of both soaps, 1 tablespoon of the peroxide and 1 cup of the alcohol. Mix them together and spray the shit out of everything, including the plants if they are still in veg (or no longer than 1 week into flowering). This mix works on every type of mite, including eggs. It's very effective. I get everything from Amazon, not sure where you live though.

I also soak the pots in the tub in hot water until the water cools. make sure the water covers the pots totally. This will kill any mites or eggs, make sure the water is HOT.

When cleaning the room, I take everything out and start fresh each time. I spray everything including the walls, floor, etc. and clean everything i.e. lights, fans, etc.

In flowering, I would rotate Mighty Wash, Dr. Zymes mite killer and Green Cleaner......

Damn I should have checked in sooner, Didn't expect a reply to be honest lol I've already started my next run....
I've keep my rooms empty for nearly 7 weeks (read their life cycle is 3-4 weeks tops with no host plants as long as the temps were right) bleached everything and burned Sulphur for everyday for a month, Dipped clones in Avid, will spray with Forbid and will continue to burn sulfur regularly. I've read and spoken to people that had great success with Sulfur Burners...we'll see how it goes. Thanks for the reply
 

Stev3

New member
Will use your method to clean up the rooms in between grows next time around....sounds like a better alternative to bleach
 

Nannymouse

Well-known member
The ninety degree heat method seems pretty natural and would be easy for some folks. I was wondering if there is more info on using temperature to rid a garden of bugs. Such as, how long must the temps be maintained?

Interesting thread.
 

sshz

Well-known member
First, you need to have the temps way above 90 degrees. Most insects are pretty hardy to outside heat.

Yes, I just started up my next crop and after emptying everything out of the room, I sprayed everything down with the recipe above- walls, floor, cracks in walls, pots, etc. It dries quick, and is effective at killing off any bugs or eggs. Plants seem to love it too, while in veg. I would not spray on buds, as you should never spray anything with oil on buds.
 

unnamedmike

Well-known member
For me, the only way was spray and do soil drenches, every 4 days, for 8 weeks with abamectine and BASF Cascade 100 cd, 0.5ml/l of each. And absolute hygiene, clean, clean and then clean a bit more. Avoid to enter the room with your usual clothes o shoes. Start to work in your room like in a surgery room. A single moth can bring a new generation of replicants to your room.
There are some others very very nasty poisons around, that work too, but they are for ornamental plants, not for cannabis.

1broadmite_new.jpg
 

120Octane

Member
Marrone makes gandevo and venerate...Google them. Its not a pesticide at all...Issue with cides is if you do not rotate what you use then the insect becomes a super bug that drinks cides and laughs....open the mind to biocides there is no resistance to them at all...just kills...look up buverea bussani, its a fungus but trust me its stops anything that touchs that pot once its established for a pest...

Heat will work but 90 degrees not gonna do shit.you have to hit 140 degrees for heat to work. Promise you in death valley its over 90 degrees and they thrive there...

The pepermint well hey it tastes bad...Will any of the cookie dookie pookie deterant oils work? No, there is a huge differance between deterant and killing...


Btw way read that bullshit label on dr zymes...its nothing more than a cpl tablespoons of citric acid(oranges)...do some math and prove me wrong on the %...its worthless....​
 

issack

Active member
Veteran
I deal with russets all the time. Most all methods mentioned in this thread suck.
og biowar 24 hour tea. foliar and drench plants at lights out for 4 days all dehumidifiers off and fans.. you will completely smoke the russets I do this every grow because I know they will come once I flip flower . This is 100% tried and true. Done it probably over 100 times
 
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