[Landrace] Malawi, Durban (CBG), Ethiopian and Honduras

thank you. Your english is very fine and i perfectly understood you, don't worry mine is not great either. I have been able to download the study and it is a very interesting study which shed some light, as i do not know exactly the effect of uvb on cannabis. i just added it because i tried to mimick the sun as closely as possible. I thought that it could potentially increase thc, but i did not know it could effect other cannabinoids too, so that is very interesting.


Regarding the introduction of uvb, i think you are totally right about being wary of uvb, it is indeed a big stress to them i found. However, i think i have found that it is possible the need for very progressive exposure may be valid mostly in that scenario where you introduce uvb late i think. During my trials, what i found is that starting uvb exposure as soon as possible reduces a lot the impact on them. Introducing during middle of flo did do what you described and my old blueberry suffered for a while. I guess it is probably because they developped their whole life without any uvb in sight, so no defense against it. In that case, progressive exposure is what needs to be done, pribably since they have no defense against it since they never saw any uvb, like ever. But outside the world of indoor growing, when you think of it, the sun of those landraces countries output much more uvb than any lamp can output and there is no progressive output, they get it from the start. that is why during this grow, i introduced it as soon as possible and to my surprise, it did not seem to affect at all the plants in their overall developpment when it did for my previous grow. the current plants grew even more vigorously than those who were in veg without a single uvb, showing that at least they could still manage it fine, the honduras being the fastest, most resiliant and most vigorous plant i have ever had, while also being the strain that was the most exposed to uvb.



I have been in south america, and the uv is so strong there you can't even go out sometimes. I have the value of how much uv my lamp exposes to my plants at a certain distance, and even very close, it would only slightly match the one from brazil. So maybe, i believe it is possible the key is that it is very important to expose to it as soon as possible, because as you say, it is a stress, and i think they may need to learn to deal with it since the beginning and, i don't know, maybe do something like develop a resistance to it, like us human do (a german that never left germany will probably burn instantly in jamaica, but if he were born there, his skin would be much more adapted to it for example).


i was scared it may kill them, but to my surprise it did not do any ill effect, stopped the insane initial stretch of the honduras that made them so skinny and not stable and i even think it started making it focus on growing more leaves. I do not know why, but since they are landrace, maybe that is why they don't like indoors, because if i take back the litterature i found a while back, the plant outside will keep stretching to reach more blue/uv and then will reduce the stretch. And what i understand about landrace and non landrace, is that they lose the title "landrace" when the strain has been either hybridized or adapted to grow "indoors". So maybe what is needed for a landrace to grow properly indoors, is to have been grown indoors with traditional grow lamps (none of them emit real uvb as uvb is concidered a health hazard, at least where i live and the only way to get it is with reptile lamps) and got them used to not have any uv light for several generations maybe ? It is just a theory of mine, so maybe it is not the case but i always wondered what was "lacking" indoors vs outdoors and it looks maybe like a potential candidate for that i think, even though there may be more than just that.



for the shadow light, i thought the plants mostly reflected green and tat is actually why they were green ? Either way, i have no idea what the shadowed light spectrum looks like as i never saw anything showing that so that may be possible. The only thing i saw in the study was that in the shadow, the plant receive a lot less blue, and specifically almost no uv at all, while still receiving a lot of red and infrared, and that being above in the sun makes the plant receive suddenly a lot of blue and uv. they did not say it was about proportion, but it may have been what is implied, that the importance was the ratio of blue/uvb to red/infrared. I don't think being shadowed can "increase" the amount of red and infrared received, just make it much more dominant compared to blue uv, so it may have been what the study was saying. This would be a cool thing to experiment with mother and clones, maybe i will do it in the future

ikinokori said:

But outside the world of indoor growing, when you think of it, the sun of those landraces countries output much more uvb than any lamp can output and there is no progressive output, they get it from the start

Click to expand...

Yes, they get it from the start. But I guess they do not receive equal amounts of UV throughout the whole grow process. As you said previously, they get less UV during the morning and the evening, due to the angle at which the sunrays impact the earth; I guess it's more or less the same effect depending on the ¿season? (Summer, spring...).

As I mentioned earlier I do not grow indoors, so I'm the least indicated person to talk about it, but if I were to do it, for me, It would also be a matter of efficiency. If I can obtain the same results with less energy (electrical energy I mean), then I'd do that. But if you found that exposing them to the same amount of UV during the whole grow is beneficial, then, by all means, do it.

ikinokori said:

for the shadow light, i thought the plants mostly reflected green and tat is actually why they were green ?

Click to expand...

Yes, they reflect green light, and that's why they are green. But I have also read that green is the light that penetrates deeper in the canopy. That's why I said that they reflect/let trough green light.

ikinokori said:

Either way, i have no idea what the shadowed light spectrum looks like as i never saw anything showing that so that may be possible. The only thing i saw in the study was that in the shadow, the plant receive a lot less blue, and specifically almost no uv at all, while still receiving a lot of red and infrared, and that being above in the sun makes the plant receive suddenly a lot of blue and uv. they did not say it was about proportion, but it may have been what is implied, that the importance was the ratio of blue/uvb to red/infrared. I don't think being shadowed can "increase" the amount of red and infrared received, just make it much more dominant compared to blue uv, so it may have been what the study was saying. This would be a cool thing to experiment with mother and clones, maybe i will do it in the future

Click to expand...

I have no idea either. I also don't think being shadowed increases the amount of red; as you just said, It increases the ratio of red vs blue, I guess.

What I'm going to do now is really clumsy and most likely incorrect, but it seems to match "our theory" (or more accurately, what we have read): Taking the Mcree absorptance table as reference, and saying that blue light ranges from 400 to 475nm, green from 500 to 575nm, and red from 600 to 675nm, we get the following absorptance averages:

- blue: 0.9225
-green: 0.8125
- red: 0.8875

So:


(epic drawing skills, I know. hahaha)

It would be 0.945 for UV, so even less % of that spectrum would reach the shadowed plants, in theory. So it kinda makes sense.

It's worth noting tho, that the most efficient spectrum is still red, if we trust the Mcree Relative Action Table (which I do), at least from my very limited understanding of it.

Greetings and keep doing what you are doing. I'm sure your plants will reward you for it

pd: If what I'm saying is bullshit, anyone, please, correct me. I also do want to learn

Yes everything makes sense. Your drawing also corresponds to what i was thinking, so it is great. In any case, just like you say, these are just my theoritical thoughts, i don't think i could make any conclusions without testing. But the limited knowledge i have would be based around those. It would be interesting to have the values like in your linked image of nm absorbption for uv b, because as it looks, the more blue, the more absorption there is and it stops at 350 while uvb is around 315 to 290, so i guess it is even worse, and would correspond to what we are saying, or as you say, what we are reporting from what we read. I also remember reading somwhere that uvb is very "reflective", it is the wrong word sorry, but the meaning is that it bounces a lot and nore than the other light nm, so it comes from all sides , up, bottom and stuff. so if you are really shadowed from all sides like a plant would be when they are shadowed by other plants, then it would match the fact of the need to stretch and stretch to get her head above the mass to reach the light. I don't remember though where i read that so it may have been not a credible source, i would suggest then taking this assumption with a grain of salt.



In any case, uvb ( and uva, i forgot that my lights have uva too) is strong and and irradient so i do not think it is something plants like, but rather something they dealt their whole existence with, a little bit like when i saw someone saying the wind would make them stronger because it cause microtear in their stem, and they need to repair it and make it stiffer. There is definitely a "too much of uv" like i found in my previous grow, just like there can be wind burn then and since i have no studies or any real experiment showing what is the good amount, i am just going to emulate how it works in nature, like everything else i try to do in this grow because it is the most idiot proof way of making something work with this plant i have found. In this grow they only got around 40% of time with uv on, which seems to correspond to what happens at minimum in most hot countries regardless of the season. it can be more, but i never found a country where there is significant amount of uv in a very long duration of the day, like for example 90% or 80% of the time so it is more of a safe number of time on as i do not want to put it on too much.




anyway thank you for the comments, they are very insightful. and thanks for the comment on my plants, i enjoy being with them too.

So about the plants, i am sorry i will have to delay the big update for in a few days. I will make a quick updates with my recent findings :




I am all slightly underfeeding them i think. They show not pretty leaves on the bottom. I think it is ok, it looks much better than when i used to overfeed them and they grow everyday very well, and 90% of the plants is just pure green so i am ok with it. It really only affect the last bottom leaves going up. And everytime i feed, it seems to stop for a while. I was wondering if there was a nute lockout, but when i water only (i make a "water only" watering every other watering), the crippling of the bottom leaves progresses much more rapidly to then slow down in the next feed. I can't help but still be wary though because it may be something else.


Ethiopian has woken up all of the sudden and is now catching up a lot in size. Still behind, but they almost doubled in a few days and are showing the fastest growth right now. too early to confirm so maybe it is just a sudden temporary spurt. but i knew they were not low vigor. very sneaky haha. Funnily enough, since the sudden spurt, they are starting to show extremely similar issues as honduras and malawi on the last pair of bottom leaves, when they were lush green before it. they were not even fed since maybe a week so it definitely makes me believe they just want more food.



One thing though, I think some of them don't like my veg nutes anymore. They seem to want food, but if i give just a little bit more, these ones make the claw while still showing they would want more food. For example, Malawi seems to hate N i feel. if i feed my refular nute amount which is only a little more than half of what is recommended and do a neem spray the same day (it provides some n i saw on the package) they will 100% make the claw.



another interesting thing is that i have tried to switch from low amount of veg nutes to almost double the amount of bloom nutes on the ethiopian male, and i thought he would hate it but he didnt, no leaf burn, nothing. He seems to enjoy it more than the veg nutes actually, but that may be normal since he is actually flowering



In any case i think i will switch to bloom nutes from now on. If it is a success, i will be wary about N in future grows when i will switch to flowering, because when the amount of food was totally fine during veg, during stretching, it seems they all want more food, while still being sensitive to N, like they want more PK and just a little bit more N, so i can't just up my veg nutes. Maybe it is just my grow nutes that have too much N ? the npk is 7-3-5.


Oh and i forgot , Durban doesnt seem to care about that issue. The last time i checked, they were not showing the bottom leaves issue, nothing. They have had more nutes than ethiopian but similar and still lower than the rest, yet nothing is happening issue wise since i have stopped the calmag issue. seems they just want calmag and that is it haha. they are the most "stretchy" and airy of them all structure wise so that may be why they need less nutes while still stretching a lot, as they don't seem to be outputting as much leaves than the rest.

again, quick update :


Honduras #2 has shown something looking like sex. It is a male i think. It is also one of the most beautiful cannabis i have grown. The photo doesnt make it justice, also It is slightly underwatered here.








thank you ace for this, really. it is probably just my inexperience with sativa that make me amazed and it probably looks like most of them, also it may be just because it is untopped and a lot of sativa strains are more beautiful, but i am really not used to that look .everyday, i come back and it looks more tall, more strong and elegant which is crazy considering the amount of nutes he is getting and the size of its pots (1 gallon only). i have had 3 gallon plants that were not even as big as him before at the same stage of life.



I may even let it pollinize the girls a little bit before culling him due to how vigorous and strong he is. really pleased and happy

Update : 14 since switch, around flo + 3 or 4 for most of them


There was again a heat wave here. The time is so unpredictable, i can have temp swing of 10 degrees celsius from a day to the other. It is no big deal as i am indoors, but it makes watering much less predictable, and i did not check on them one day so 3 or 4 plants were very thirsty. It was interesting to witness their drought resistance, as they behaved differently from one another

Apart from that, they are now all flowering, or almost. And it is pretty surprising, i have a lot of males. i have only one female malawi vs 2 males, only 1 female honduras vs 2 males, one female durban vs one male and one potential male (too soon to tell, the sex is too small) and one female ethiopian vs one potential female and one male. i will end up with less than half of the plants but it's ok, as long as i have one female of each i'm good


In vertical line : Durban, Ethiopian, Honduras and Malawi





i am correcting the underfeeding now. I went a little too safe but now i have better understanding of how much food they need, when they need it the most and what they need. Previously, it was hard because of nute lockout, so going low shows better what is required. It is clear to me now that some are very sensitive to N, yet want the other stuff like p and k. Other thing, i think it seems calmag needs has increased in some during stretch /flowering, more precisely i would say around the start of apparition of flowers. i will now feed them all calmag once a week.

Apart from that, they are all blooming and everything seems well.

As usual, next post will focus on each strains and plants

Ethiopian :

2 of the ethiopian were the most affected litteraly as they had very few water left before the heat wave compared to everyone else. Their resistance was pretty impressive, and i think i have seen how they do it. Ethiopian #1 and #3 went extremely low in moisture, much, much lower than the honduras yet only the lowest leaves were drooping. It seems the plant sacrificed the smaller lower bottom leaves by making them all of the sudden spotty and blotched /dry and brittle like there was an extreme drought, but left intact the higher parts which looked very similar as when they are watered. Ethiopian #2 was completely unaffected as it was watered right before and did not get the bottom leaves destruction since it had plenty of water. As a comparison, the Honduras, while having much higher moisture in the soil, just drooped entirely all of the sudden. Same for malawi. They were kind of perky and went droopy entirely in a matter of hours while the ethiopian, which were way beyond dry kept being the same self overall while sacrificing the bottom leaves that were completely sucked dry and brittle. Maybe there is less humidity, or more dry moments in ethiopia ? it is interesting to see the mechanism


Ethiopian #1 (female)


Ethiopian #2 (male) (if it is droopy it is because i did not water it since i knew i would cut him)


Ethiopian #3 (undetermined)


Other thing about them, they constantly have a weird clawing. I thought i was maybe constantly overwatering the, but it did not change at all during the dry spell. It is not like malawi getting too much N clawing, rather a constant one. Nothing seems to affect it, wether they are dry, watered, fed, or unfed, they always look like that. What is strange is that it only happens to older leaves, meaning new growth always look perky, and when leaves become older they get this strange droop/claw while not getting yello, blotchy or damaged, not even on the tips. I went back to older posts and noticed it was present since the beginning, i mentioned that in my first posts, mentionning it was pretty back then, but now it looks a little bit strange as it is much more apparent since the leaves are big. I tried to look on other people growing the ethiopian, and i have seen similar thing on some photos, but one of the dew grow of ethiopian did not show that. I am wondering then if they don't like my soil, as this started from the beginning even before i started feeding them ? I don't really know if i am doing something wrong with then, maybe this is why they are the smallest. What is weird is that they still grow normally without much issue, actually less issues than the other ones and prior to the drought incident, they didnt show anything wierd on the leaves, no splotches, nothing. They arent even low vigor as they are the one who resist the most to heat (doesn't seem to affect them), pest (almost not even a single bite) and underwatering. very strange.



Also, i have cooked the early ethiopian male since its flower sacks were oppening and spreading. Can't let him pollinize my girls haha. It had a lovely smell, very fresh yet heavy that i could not describe, not the usual kind. It mixes well with the olive oil it was cooked in, i think it tastes even better than before. I chewed on the stem and it had a very distinct, powerful or even overpowering taste in the mouth that is very new to me. i can't wait to try the effects, it wont probably be the same effect as full matured buds, but i found that if i let the male at least mature enough to start pollinizing, then i can get a very good effect that gives me a good preview of the strain.


Last part on the ethiopian : they bleed ?? I found red dots on one ethiopian, which made me very scared it was spider mites or some sort of disease, but after close inspection it was a clearly a gooey that turned solid, kinda like sap. I tried to scrap it off to no avail or i would damage the stem, it is stuck like glue and completely solidified. I did not think much of it, until i smashed the other ethiopian accidently while moving the plants to the flower room and the next day the joint that was twisted had red splatches red. What "confirmed" to me the thing was the male ethiopian, i cutted it to make the canna oil, left it for a few hours on my shelf, and when i came back at night most of the main stem wounds were covered in red blood. It is very interesting, and it seems it doesn't happen right away, but maybe during scarification ? I do not know why this is happening at all, i don't think i ever saw it in my life nor any mention of it on the ethiopian threads, which is strange as mine all do that. I wonder if it has anything to do with the overpowering taste and maybe the reason for their resistance against pest ?

Here is a photo, i am sorry it is the only photo i took , it was from one of the females (#1). it looks orange here, but without the color bleaching of the cmh it looks much more red. When it was liquid on the male (#2) it looked very opaque, kind of blood-like. very interesting.

Durban :

They look very nice. They are now pretty vigorous and show good growth. considering the sun goes as low as 10h in durban and as high as 14h, i think they were less triggered by the switch to 11/13 than the other. The female durban is showing very nice pistils, which strangely have color at their base (oxydation?). I thought it may be the pistil was already pollinized, but it is not retracted and the point is white, it is really the base. i hope it means they will have colors.

They have higher sensitive to nutes to the other ones. They are the only one i have managed to very slightly burn while experimenting on the male #3. Pretty picky, but on the other hand, apart from the calmag, they need very few nutes. Green from head to toe, lovely plants

Durban #1 (female)



Durban 2 (undeterminded)


Durban #3 (male)

ikinokori said:

Ethiopian :

2 of the ethiopian were the most affected litteraly as they had very few water left before the heat wave compared to everyone else. Their resistance was pretty impressive, and i think i have seen how they do it. Ethiopian #1 and #3 went extremely low in moisture, much, much lower than the honduras yet only the lowest leaves were drooping. It seems the plant sacrificed the smaller lower bottom leaves by making them all of the sudden spotty and blotched /dry and brittle like there was an extreme drought, but left intact the higher parts which looked very similar as when they are watered. Ethiopian #2 was completely unaffected as it was watered right before and did not get the bottom leaves destruction since it had plenty of water. As a comparison, the Honduras, while having much higher moisture in the soil, just drooped entirely all of the sudden. Same for malawi. They were kind of perky and went droopy entirely in a matter of hours while the ethiopian, which were way beyond dry kept being the same self overall while sacrificing the bottom leaves that were completely sucked dry and brittle. Maybe there is less humidity, or more dry moments in ethiopia ? it is interesting to see the mechanism


Ethiopian #1 (female)
View Image

Ethiopian #2 (male) (if it is droopy it is because i did not water it since i knew i would cut him)
View Image

Ethiopian #3 (undetermined)
View Image

Other thing about them, they constantly have a weird clawing. I thought i was maybe constantly overwatering the, but it did not change at all during the dry spell. It is not like malawi getting too much N clawing, rather a constant one. Nothing seems to affect it, wether they are dry, watered, fed, or unfed, they always look like that. What is strange is that it only happens to older leaves, meaning new growth always look perky, and when leaves become older they get this strange droop/claw while not getting yello, blotchy or damaged, not even on the tips. I went back to older posts and noticed it was present since the beginning, i mentioned that in my first posts, mentionning it was pretty back then, but now it looks a little bit strange as it is much more apparent since the leaves are big. I tried to look on other people growing the ethiopian, and i have seen similar thing on some photos, but one of the dew grow of ethiopian did not show that. I am wondering then if they don't like my soil, as this started from the beginning even before i started feeding them ? I don't really know if i am doing something wrong with then, maybe this is why they are the smallest. What is weird is that they still grow normally without much issue, actually less issues than the other ones and prior to the drought incident, they didnt show anything wierd on the leaves, no splotches, nothing. They arent even low vigor as they are the one who resist the most to heat (doesn't seem to affect them), pest (almost not even a single bite) and underwatering. very strange.



Also, i have cooked the early ethiopian male since its flower sacks were oppening and spreading. Can't let him pollinize my girls haha. It had a lovely smell, very fresh yet heavy that i could not describe, not the usual kind. It mixes well with the olive oil it was cooked in, i think it tastes even better than before. I chewed on the stem and it had a very distinct, powerful or even overpowering taste in the mouth that is very new to me. i can't wait to try the effects, it wont probably be the same effect as full matured buds, but i found that if i let the male at least mature enough to start pollinizing, then i can get a very good effect that gives me a good preview of the strain.


Last part on the ethiopian : they bleed ?? I found red dots on one ethiopian, which made me very scared it was spider mites or some sort of disease, but after close inspection it was a clearly a gooey that turned solid, kinda like sap. I tried to scrap it off to no avail or i would damage the stem, it is stuck like glue and completely solidified. I did not think much of it, until i smashed the other ethiopian accidently while moving the plants to the flower room and the next day the joint that was twisted had red splatches red. What "confirmed" to me the thing was the male ethiopian, i cutted it to make the canna oil, left it for a few hours on my shelf, and when i came back at night most of the main stem wounds were covered in red blood. It is very interesting, and it seems it doesn't happen right away, but maybe during scarification ? I do not know why this is happening at all, i don't think i ever saw it in my life nor any mention of it on the ethiopian threads, which is strange as mine all do that. I wonder if it has anything to do with the overpowering taste and maybe the reason for their resistance against pest ?

Here is a photo, i am sorry it is the only photo i took , it was from one of the females (#1). it looks orange here, but without the color bleaching of the cmh it looks much more red. When it was liquid on the male (#2) it looked very opaque, kind of blood-like. very interesting.

View Image

Click to expand...

The red nodule looks very similar to the red nodules on soy bean plant roots, which is in fact... ready for this? Nitrogen. I wouldn't be surprised one bit if it isn't 100%N. Some plants make their own.

TychoMonolyth said:

The red nodule looks very similar to the red nodules on soy bean plant roots, which is in fact... ready for this? Nitrogen. I wouldn't be surprised one bit if it isn't 100%N. Some plants make their own.

Click to expand...

interesting... I'm very curious to know what that would change in the plant metabolism, and/or if it affects their characteristics like taste, effect, resistance to environmental stuff and so on... fascinating

I don't know... but I suspect it would affect the flavor. Does N have one? I would try to grow it with zero, or very low N. Just to see. Once leaves showed a lack of N, I'd add it in nutes with an emergency light foliar.

When i grow outdoor, if my plants aren't booking it and growing hard by mid July I pour the N to them because it's a crucial time for bulk that you can't recover from.

As with all experiments, if you can't afford it, don't do it. Lol.

it is true that now that i think of it, they had so few nutes and yet they are deep green... I maybe fed them like 5 times or a little more in total, so for a 1 month and a half of growing and the feeding amount was really low, lower than the absolute minimal feeding schedule of my nutes.


i looked up what are the main characteristics of ethiopian soil, and while it highly depends on the region, a lot of them seem to be very dry and low in nutrients. that would explain a lot of what i am witnessing here. Some of them are high in nutrients and very moist so it would really depend on where does this strain grow though.


on another very interesting note, i decided to lookup what durban soil characteristics are, and this is what i have found :


"(talking about the ice age 18000 years ago) During this time, the features we know today as the Bluff and Berea, were formed from sand dunes which became dune, or aeolianite rock, through a process of lithification. This happened when rainwater percolated through the sand, dissolving calcium carbonate shell fragments which then dried into a type of cement and stuck the sand particles together. The red sand, found all over Durban, also known as Berea-type sand, is the result of the weathering and oxidation of dune rock."


So that would explain why they are so hungry on calmag... i am kind of amazed, these plants litteraly carry piece of history with them

Very cool what information a bit of research can give you.

For my honduran, i was having a hell of a time keeping them to live beyond the first set of true leaves. They'd stop growing and just give up the ghost. When i went looking for "Soil types in..." God damn if i didn't find the archeological records of a dig in the 50s on the island. Gotta love scientists. They recorded everything they dug up including soil conditioning and PH, and put it on a map!! Lol

very interesting. i guess if you want to start a landrace and know what to give to them, just a google search of their original natural soil can give you critical information. Sounds obvious when you say it like that but i did not think of doing that at all, only looked for the climate and day of illumination. I will do it systematically from now on.

I visit the island a lot to dive, so i already knew about the rain downpours followed by nothing but hard sun and heat.

you mean ethiopian or honduras ? that is so cool, i have not traveled in a while. Sounds like a lot of fun. Have you encountered wild cannabis there ?

Honduras. The weed I'm taking about is about as wild as you'd get. Most is planted (throw seeds, step on them. lol) some come up from a previous crop. It's always seeded.

I got my hands on Chola seeds in Ecuador. I never saw the plants, but I'm told it grows on it's own in around Banos which is quite high altitude wise and almost like the cloud forest climate wise. I had a dozen seeds and none germinated. I already have my order in for fresh seeds. I got the weed from an old fisherman. It was wrapped in the corner of a grocery bag and was as old and dusty as possible. One toke and you'd get a mouthful of weed dust. Tasted like absolute shit. If I ever get it to grow, it'll be fresh and I'll call that strain 'Ol Fisherman's Arse.

haha nice, that is a great name very appropriate for the situation. what were the effect ? i figure if it was old and dusty, then not much. love to see what a wild plant from there has as effects. i love central america and south america, you are lucky to go there often.




btw, my update on the honduras and malawi will be posted tomorrow

It was just too nasty to smoke. After one toke I gagged so I quit. lol

Looking forward to it.

Malawi

They are really fat for a pure sativa. They wanted food and seem to be ok now since i have upped the feed regimen. Sensitive to N, but it seems better now. They do seem to love their new bloom feeding. Big and bushy, very beautiful.

Malawi #1


Malawi #2


Malawi #3


Also, they are much more hungry now. They can even tolerate higher feedings than the rest as long as there is not too much N