Well, I am also going to try MM's method of pre-feeding the v compost before I make my tea. I just thought I'd try leadsled's posted method (or, a version of it) since I have plenty of all the ingredients needed.
Thanks for contributing.
HB.
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Compost Tea Extract
- Thread starter leadsled
- Start date
Well, I am also going to try MM's method of pre-feeding the v compost before I make my tea. I just thought I'd try leadsled's posted method (or, a version of it) since I have plenty of all the ingredients needed.
Thanks for contributing.
HB.
That made me laugh!
Think im going to try this also, with some sea shield, instead of hydrosylate 2-4-0 (cant imagine the P is good for fungi)
Should be interesting..
_tessarecting
ஓ
Watch out for flies, my last one was tossed because maggots
P is only antifungal when above 10 I thought.
P is only antifungal when above 10 I thought.
There is no reason that the phosphorus used to stabilize fish hydrolysate would inhibit fungal growth. You may see the testing I did for Gem and Pacific on their sites.
Perhaps you are thinking of infection rates of mycorrhizal fungi (AM) being inhibited by high P. There are varying study results on the subject but the main hypothesis is that with high available P that AM becomes unnecessary. The use it or loose it scenario.
Perhaps you are thinking of infection rates of mycorrhizal fungi (AM) being inhibited by high P. There are varying study results on the subject but the main hypothesis is that with high available P that AM becomes unnecessary. The use it or loose it scenario.
Outstanding thread.. I'm tired of brewing teas and stuff, and I'm always looking for a better way.
Any reason I cant simply incorporate the aged product lightly into the soil? it seems like the extraction to a tea seems like another step that isn't needed.
Any reason I cant simply incorporate the aged product lightly into the soil? it seems like the extraction to a tea seems like another step that isn't needed.
_tessarecting
ஓ
The solution is what evenly spreads the extract and saturates the soil.
It's like the difference between eating psychedelic cactus and brewing a tea.
The biology would probably just die before it got to do anything is my guess.
It's like the difference between eating psychedelic cactus and brewing a tea.
The biology would probably just die before it got to do anything is my guess.
That doesn't make sense to me, if you water after incorporation then it could spread around. Not to mention, you would have the food source that the fungi started from.
The analogy doesn't make sense to me either. Its easier for fungal hyphae to spread as shown in the tray picture covered and from what I've read in "Teaming with Microbes" .
After looking at some samples of teas and compost under a microscope, (2000x) the ones with more material in it from a quick count had more microbe density vs a wet mount with less material, the microbes clearly are swarming around the chunks.
It just seems like you would be throwing out a large portion of the microherd unless you incorporate the bag into the top layer of soil.
I just thought it would be handy to have this amendment around in some seedling flats and use it as needed.
FoothillFarming
Active member
I am with GrowerGoneWild here.
I am giving this whole process a try, but microbial multiplication through ACT's seem like a more effective end product, if and when done right.
With that said, 250 gallons of water feeds about 15 plants for me right now. The 10% concentration in the brew calls for 25 gallons of compost. If I were to top dress the same 15 plants, I would use easily 100 gallons of compost.......not sure if that means the tea is stronger / more effective, or going to end up not very effective.
I am giving this whole process a try, but microbial multiplication through ACT's seem like a more effective end product, if and when done right.
With that said, 250 gallons of water feeds about 15 plants for me right now. The 10% concentration in the brew calls for 25 gallons of compost. If I were to top dress the same 15 plants, I would use easily 100 gallons of compost.......not sure if that means the tea is stronger / more effective, or going to end up not very effective.
_tessarecting
ஓ
I got mycelium growing on the surface of my soil...and I aint gonna be chucking that shit on my mounds c:
My 2. Cents. If you want to kick a soil over nothing better then act.
If your looking to get a plant healthy quick. A slurry is the best.
Other then that if you keep you soil happy and have good compost in the beginning, your soil should be fairly alive. Random small application s of small amounts of different composts and native soil are always good to bring in more diversity. Not much is need, either they will grow or go dormate. Either way more diversity is important in my book.
Give it some good food stocks (mulch) and you should never have to add compost again.
Let the worms work the mulch. After a run you will have 1/2 inch of fressh casting.
Tada...easy as can be.
Keep it moist and keep a mulch!
The only time I could see a top bress of casting/compost misused is when it is applied to the top of bare soil and allowed. To dry and crust.
If that happens you application ment lettle as the microbes dry out and become dormate. Then with out a food stock they have a hard time getting going.
Don't get the dreaded crust!
If your looking to get a plant healthy quick. A slurry is the best.
Other then that if you keep you soil happy and have good compost in the beginning, your soil should be fairly alive. Random small application s of small amounts of different composts and native soil are always good to bring in more diversity. Not much is need, either they will grow or go dormate. Either way more diversity is important in my book.
Give it some good food stocks (mulch) and you should never have to add compost again.
Let the worms work the mulch. After a run you will have 1/2 inch of fressh casting.
Tada...easy as can be.
Keep it moist and keep a mulch!
The only time I could see a top bress of casting/compost misused is when it is applied to the top of bare soil and allowed. To dry and crust.
If that happens you application ment lettle as the microbes dry out and become dormate. Then with out a food stock they have a hard time getting going.
Don't get the dreaded crust!
I dig the slurry idea, I'm not a big fan of the idea of removing the food/media from the microlife just to get them waterborne. I can get an even coverage of this on transplants. I understand if I was trying to cover a large area but I am not.
This also saves me the trouble of incorporation into the top layer..
I've heard similar things about diversity in a soil population, (Ingham, Lowenfells) but I like to use fungal teas or granular products then move towards bacterial dominant teas.
You can use what ever you want but ultimately the soil and plant decide what's stays and goes dormate.
Remember a large part of sugars the plant creates goes to the soil to feed microbes. You can try and put them there but the plat decides.
I like to add diversity but not on a constant manner. Your just chasing your tail and potentially shitting done some microbes with potential soluble nutes.
Remember a large part of sugars the plant creates goes to the soil to feed microbes. You can try and put them there but the plat decides.
I like to add diversity but not on a constant manner. Your just chasing your tail and potentially shitting done some microbes with potential soluble nutes.
Does anyone distinguish between sulfured and non sulfured molasses?
Lots of molasses is preserved with sulfur dioxide and other goodies to prevent biology and I am wondering what the consequences are on ACT or other biological brews.
Lots of molasses is preserved with sulfur dioxide and other goodies to prevent biology and I am wondering what the consequences are on ACT or other biological brews.
Listening
I've always used unsulphered black strap molasses. I've never even looked for sulfured molasses.
HB.
You've been here since 2008 and feel the need to ask that question?
FoothillFarming
Active member
So I have applied several compost teas now.........
I didn't really like it. I never noticed a response from the plants. The EC stayed the same, plant brix didn't move........I don't get it maybe?
I decided the new path for me will be making ACT's then adding nutrients at the end. Feeding that to my plants every week. Seems like a better combo than just compost. ACT adds bio life, and my AEA nutes will feed the plant/microbes. Just need to scope so I make sure my teas don't crash.
Just my two cents. Anybody seeing positive results from their compost teas?
I didn't really like it. I never noticed a response from the plants. The EC stayed the same, plant brix didn't move........I don't get it maybe?
I decided the new path for me will be making ACT's then adding nutrients at the end. Feeding that to my plants every week. Seems like a better combo than just compost. ACT adds bio life, and my AEA nutes will feed the plant/microbes. Just need to scope so I make sure my teas don't crash.
Just my two cents. Anybody seeing positive results from their compost teas?
The only noticeable effect I saw from brewed teas was tiny pale spots on the smaller plants. Looked like bug damage but would happen over night with tea application and only on newer growth.
No microscope to check things out at that level so I switched to using slurry instead, problem gone.
Worm casting or a compost slurry seems to fix most imbalances I run into. Worms have established themselves in the composter so there is less and less difference as time goes by.
What are you expecting to see, over what period of time?
ACT is not magic. It is one tool. It is very effective for some growers so I guess there are variables to consider. Some CT is far superior to other CT. It is not going to be effective in all soil configurations.
I'll give you one tip. Most EC measurements are 100% useless in organic matter, according to one of the top compost experts in North America (and my experience). There is too much interference for accurate measures. The useful EC instruments are the expensive ones used in the field (behind tractors) to detect carbon levels.
http://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/13121/PDF
If you add nutrients to ACT prior to application, you may as well skip the ACT process, as I've written many times.
