Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!

Dready_jake · May 10, 2015

That would be a game changed definitely. Because the chemical treatments it does happen in one treatment. the main part of my job for a little while was eradication and prevention of mites. They build up the resistance to chemicals because the ones that survive are resistant so the majority of the offspring even if its from one mite will have that same resistance. Therefore instant resistance to one mode of action.

Now this type of mode of attack is very intriguing as its organic and safe for us and pets right? Especially if they cannot build a resistance like most other modes if action. Thanks for the info!

mojave green · May 10, 2015

Finally, a good broad mite thread!
:tiphat:

panick503 · May 10, 2015

Dready_jake said:
That would be a game changed definitely. Because the chemical treatments it does happen in one treatment. the main part of my job for a little while was eradication and prevention of mites. They build up the resistance to chemicals because the ones that survive are resistant so the majority of the offspring even if its from one mite will have that same resistance. Therefore instant resistance to one mode of action.

I knew it could happen, but I didn't think it was that quick. If it happens that quickly, how many generations until the chemical resistance wears off? Or are they always resistant to that mode of action?

Dready_jake · May 10, 2015

Why would a resistance wear off? Honestly I don't know it it would or would not wear off.
I think not though, because it was just a genetic strength that allowed them to survive and that gets stronger as you refine the generations with the same mode of action.( edumacated guess lol)

Say 1 mite survives avid and it was carrying eggs. The eggs hatch Then 1/4 of those mites survive the next application of avid. Then they breed together making a very large number of resistant mites.
In theory 2 to 4 changes of mode of action should completely eradicate. Followed with a similar alternations in preventatives should completely protect in theory.

FatherEarth · May 10, 2015

Humidity is easy, spray at night and water too. I even throw water on the floor if needed. I also rotate with a heavy use of agsil and protekt. Hit em hard with silicates in foliar and in the watering. This is the secret weapon that is also beefing up plant cell walls and making all pests and mold vanish with the quickness..pfr folks make a product called sil-matrix that is 29% silicate... I use 1/8 -1/4 teaspoon in foliar every 3 days at least and 1/8 per gallon every watering... Good thing about pfr is it keeps producing spores and spreading once it gets going.... If silicate levels are up no worries for mold. Check the latest plant sap webinar video i linked in the AEA thread shows exactly why we see mold in crops... Lack of silicates...

FatherEarth · May 10, 2015

Resistance to fungi penetrating the exoskeleton of insects is like growing body armor to stop knife wounds. It could happen in a super bug i suppose. Just like spiderman with radiation.

FatherEarth · May 10, 2015

Also if not in flower, i like the light stretch move. Either turn down your lights or raise them. Get them to stretch a bit and spread the nodes apart. Decreasing leaf density helps in coverage efficiency and making the spray contact target pests. No place to hide. Once you get a handle on the pests top and resume light intensity to pack nodes tight. This strategy is best used with early detection during vegetive growth.

panick503 · May 10, 2015

FatherEarth said:
Also if not in flower, i like the light stretch move. Either turn down your lights or raise them. Get them to stretch a bit and spread the nodes apart. Decreasing leaf density helps in coverage efficiency and making the spray contact target pests. No place to hide. Once you get a handle on the pests top and resume light intensity to pack nodes tight. This strategy is best used with early detection during vegetive growth.

Huh that makes a lot of sense. Reducing the canopy via pruning was another thing I did earlier on to make the various treatments more effective.

Thanks a lot for starting this thread, let's continue to keep it positive and make this the new broad mite thread that actually sticks around....

Dready_jake · May 10, 2015

FatherEarth said:
Resistance to fungi penetrating the exoskeleton of insects is like growing body armor to stop knife wounds. It could happen in a super bug i suppose. Just like spiderman with radiation.

very intriguing I know what I'm going to do first if I ever get them :tiphat:

also I have that armor.

FatherEarth · May 10, 2015

Dready_jake said:
That is crazy! The mites that survived will lay eggs that are resistant to your current treatment. Change that mode of action and they will be gone for good!

Basically what happened is that only the eggs survived that lone treatment in high humidity. Which means the surviving newly hatched populations will be eliminated as long as you are using the product in accordance with broad mite hatching cycles. Just like how regular mites hatch new eggs every three days you must apply treatments in accordance to reproductive cycles of target pests. Know thy enemy. Ive been spraying every three days sometimes in two. Also using silicates heavy and the final blow will be swirskis in mega numbers before flower and then slow release swirskis all thru flower. Since swirskis dont enter diapause from shortened photoperiod like most mites do, they will continue actively hunting broads through the flowering cycle.

FE

stihgnobevoli · May 10, 2015

can we get more closeup pics of the site of infestation?

like that pic you showed. can you zoom in 20-50x at the main growth tip. thanks, nice thread :tiphat:

FatherEarth · May 10, 2015

stihgnobevoli said:
can we get more closeup pics of the site of infestation?

like that pic you showed. can you zoom in 20-50x at the main growth tip. thanks, nice thread

For sure, and in due time. I have a lot of pics to process just takes me a min to get them uploaded. Busy time of year ...

Mikell · May 10, 2015

Handy link, gives a good layman's explanation and has a fairly comprehensive listing of pesticides by MOA.

Photosynthesis · May 10, 2015

FatherEarth said:
Humidity is easy, spray at night and water too. I even throw water on the floor if needed. I also rotate with a heavy use of agsil and protekt. Hit em hard with silicates in foliar and in the watering. This is the secret weapon that is also beefing up plant cell walls and making all pests and mold vanish with the quickness..pfr folks make a product called sil-matrix that is 29% silicate... I use 1/8 -1/4 teaspoon in foliar every 3 days at least and 1/8 per gallon every watering... Good thing about pfr is it keeps producing spores and spreading once it gets going.... If silicate levels are up no worries for mold. Check the latest plant sap webinar video i linked in the AEA thread shows exactly why we see mold in crops... Lack of silicates...

Doing everything you stated still doesn't get 250 lights in colorado to over 35% humidity. It's not easy at all here.

Avinash.miles · May 10, 2015

Photosynthesis said:
Doing everything you stated still doesn't get 250 lights in colorado to over 35% humidity. It's not easy at all here.

sorry, but spraying lites out, watering lites out, and dumping water on the floor aint gonna get a 6 lighter up to 60 percent humidity in Colorado either.....
i'm still thinking atomizer sprayer, on a timer, goes on for like one minute every hour....
that or get a big fogger or humidifier, I typically see the ill effects of low RH/ VPD in my rooms since starting up in CO. a bigass fogger/humidifier has been on my wishlist for sometime now....

milkyjoe · May 10, 2015

FatherEarth said:
Humidity is easy, spray at night and water too. I even throw water on the floor if needed. I also rotate with a heavy use of agsil and protekt. Hit em hard with silicates in foliar and in the watering. This is the secret weapon that is also beefing up plant cell walls and making all pests and mold vanish with the quickness..pfr folks make a product called sil-matrix that is 29% silicate... I use 1/8 -1/4 teaspoon in foliar every 3 days at least and 1/8 per gallon every watering... Good thing about pfr is it keeps producing spores and spreading once it gets going.... If silicate levels are up no worries for mold. Check the latest plant sap webinar video i linked in the AEA thread shows exactly why we see mold in crops... Lack of silicates...

I get a 404, owner hasn't authorized on the webinar. Do you worry about K with ksil

Edit...isn't that spider a beneficial insect? I am curious what the fungus actually attacks

DrFever · May 10, 2015

How can they build resistance when they cannot escape sure death lol nice thread FE
as for steaming haha i would suggest everyone not to go this route my only down fall was i should of thrown in some cauliflower and carrots had me a vegan lunch lmao
Steamed plants

chomedome · May 10, 2015

Nice work! Would you mind telling me what kind of microscope that is? The one I have is really hard to look for broads with. Thanks

HUGE · May 10, 2015

Dready_jake · May 10, 2015

Im agrowing in my small co bedroom with the largest humidifier I could find for under 40 bucks and top out at 50ish% if my readers are right. It is pretty hard to keep humidity up here lol

And I've been told spiders can be beneficial but they tend to carry some diseases for plants. Don't REALLY know for sure bug a grower I used to work for told me that one

Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!

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