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Fusarium or verticillium?

TheOutlawTree

Active member
if you are nuking all microbiology and think your good because your room is sealed ... good luck.

IMHE the best results where gotten when I assured my beneficials where plentiful enough to assure no common pathogen could establish a foothold in my medium and my plant health was optimal so it was not so easily susceptible to disease

plants that are not at optimal health are like people with compromised immune systems, that is, they easily get sick, soil is the same way except it doesn't look sick or get a cough

I agree 100%. I have tried teaming with microbes on many different occasions though, in this room with no success. I'm not saying to disregard soil biology, because its the best way to grow- I'm saying its been impossible to have healthy plants in my specific room, that must be swarming with fusarium spores.

The last round of plants that I brought in where inoculated with Rootshield (T22), OG Biowar tea's, and planted / up-potted with great white myco. They never got anything that would have killed the soil biology other than synthetic nutrients, hence the weekly tea's I did.
 

MrBelvedere

Active member
ICMag Donor
Maybe try stopping the synthetic nutrients and go 100% with tea and a diverse amount of beneficials, never putting on anything to kill the beneficials. Is your medium cut with a lot perlite (or something similar) so it drains and dries fast? Are you in soil? Are you reapplying myco periodically? Removing chloramine from water before you foliar feed beneficials? In the first pics I could not see any perlite (or similar)? Good luck
 
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TheOutlawTree

Active member
The number of healthy crop's I have harvested in the past, that were in less than ideal conditions... many of them consisting of bringing un-healthy plants back to life- is what leads me to believe the main issue here is the high spore count. Hence why In my circumstances I think that a thorough cleaning / fresh paint / and high heat baking of the room is going to be the only way to fix the problem.
 

Thcvhunter

Well-known member
Veteran
Ego's get in the way of Premier grows.
The "I can do this because I...." is a fallacy.
If anyone thinks that they have special skills that makes them a better grower, that's likely not the case.
The best grows are done by stewards, not growers.
Don't grow - listen! She speaks. You can't tell her what to do - she knows more than all of us on here
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
Maybe try stopping the synthetic nutrients and go 100% with a diverse amount of beneficials, never putting on anything to kill the beneficials. Is your medium cut with a lot perlite so it drains and dries fast? Are you in soil? Are you reapplying myco periodically? Removing chloramine from water before you foliar feed beneficials? Good luck

One thing that should be noted is that I have not tried going 100% organic in soil without using synthetic nutes.

For the past year I've grown in ready gro aeration mix which is 70% coco, 30% perlite.

THc- I'm not saying im a master grower... Im far from it and I've got a ton to learn!
 

MrBelvedere

Active member
ICMag Donor
One thing that should be noted is that I have not tried going 100% organic in soil without using synthetic nutes.

For the past year I've grown in ready gro aeration mix which is 70% coco, 30% perlite.

THc- I'm not saying im a master grower... Im far from it and I've got a ton to learn!

Any better luck now? In the page 1 pictures there is very little white perlite, maybe 5% max from what is appearing in the pics. This may be a simple case of overwatering and poor drainage that led to some attack or simple wilting from being waterlogged and oxygen deprived.

If the medium was actually 30% perlite the pics would show 30% white perlite in the top of the buckets. Unless you repotted already into new mix already I would say that is the root cause of the issues. Hope that helps.
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
Ive got my room full of flowering plants.. Still another month or so until I can start over again.

The pic on page 1 isn't really a good example. Those plants were not babied like they should have been. They were there for taking extra clones, and they were planted in vermifire which has a lot of lava rock instead of perlite. That was a long time ago and I did away with my EZ cloner after I found out there was fusarium here.

I am probably going to try going completely 100% organic next round with 20g smart pots and coots mix from rare earth instead of coco DTW.

The room is going to get baked very thoroughly hopefully I can get it around 200f, and all the walls will be repainted.
 

Thcvhunter

Well-known member
Veteran
For 100% organic you want to inoculate periodically.
A lot of products have Trichoderma. Thrichoderma is great but its very competetive and will eat a lot of your other beneficials so be sure to find somethin that isnt most Trichoderma.

I used to use Great white Shark till I researched and found its mostly Trichoderma.
Now I use Modern Microbes (holy shit what a product)
 

panick503

Member
Search google for 'welcome to the fungal, it gets worse here everyday'. That's a pretty scary thread about a guy who knew what he was doing as far as plant health, and was fucked time after time!

Ive read that thread, didnt the original poster solve his problem by switching from hydro to soil?
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
For 100% organic you want to inoculate periodically.
A lot of products have Trichoderma. Thrichoderma is great but its very competetive and will eat a lot of your other beneficials so be sure to find somethin that isnt most Trichoderma.

I used to use Great white Shark till I researched and found its mostly Trichoderma.
Now I use Modern Microbes (holy shit what a product)

I will check out the modern microbes, thanks. I also really like EM1...so I will plan on using that as well. I will do a weekly or maybe even twice a week worm casting tea as well. Looking forward to going back to Organics indoors!
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
1 year later, victory

1 year later, victory

Well, I think its safe to say that I have finally beat the fusarium on my indoor grow. I am chalking it up to a lack of cleanliness on my part.

I ended up spraying 10 gallons of bleach on all surface area's, mopped the floor with it as well. I removed all hydro tables, reservoirs and dehumidifiers. I heated the room to over 150f for about 2 hours after the bleach clean. I bought a paint sprayer and painted all surface area's including the floor with anti-mold Zinsser brand white primer.

I switched to complete organic's. I went with cootz mix, and applied several earthworm casting tea's into soil before i planted my clones.

I'm growing in 15g geopots, and every pot was mixed with 2 tablespoons of modern microbes.

I brewed a bunch of EM-1 and pretty much every watering has had 1/2oz-1oz of EM-1 per gallon, as well as raw freeze dried coconut water, 200x aloe vera powder flakes, and Silica. I have also done 1 wormcasting tea a week so far, and applied my first ever Barley seed sprout tea.

I'm almost 100% sure the plants are fusarium free.. Its the first time in about a year I have plants that look like they should. I'm sure the thriving soil life is a factor, as well as the extremely thorough cleaning and painting i did.
 

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KONY

Active member
Veteran
Well, I think its safe to say that I have finally beat the fusarium on my indoor grow. I am chalking it up to a lack of cleanliness on my part.

I ended up spraying 10 gallons of bleach on all surface area's, mopped the floor with it as well. I removed all hydro tables, reservoirs and dehumidifiers. I heated the room to over 150f for about 2 hours after the bleach clean. I bought a paint sprayer and painted all surface area's including the floor with anti-mold Zinsser brand white primer.

I switched to complete organic's. I went with cootz mix, and applied several earthworm casting tea's into soil before i planted my clones.

I'm growing in 15g geopots, and every pot was mixed with 2 tablespoons of modern microbes.

I brewed a bunch of EM-1 and pretty much every watering has had 1/2oz-1oz of EM-1 per gallon, as well as raw freeze dried coconut water, 200x aloe vera powder flakes, and Silica. I have also done 1 wormcasting tea a week so far, and applied my first ever Barley seed sprout tea.

I'm almost 100% sure the plants are fusarium free.. Its the first time in about a year I have plants that look like they should. I'm sure the thriving soil life is a factor, as well as the extremely thorough cleaning and painting i did.

How bout now, another year later? Also did you keep any of your original genetics that had this problem?
Wish I could find a lab instate that will test cannabis, thinking about submitting a sample to the university as a 'tomato root/crown' lol.

Seems to really prefer some strains over others though, Glue and cookies are resistant, other strains it stops trich and terp production mid flower.

This is with using a mix of endo mycos, aloe, asprin and trichoderma. As well as great quality worm castings and cow based compost. Coots mix.
 
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TheOutlawTree

Active member
No problem a year later. I didn't keep any of the original genetics.

In the past when I had a problem, it would affect every strain. Blue dream was pretty resistant though, go figure.

Another big reason I didnt have healthy plants in the past indoors, is because the environment was not right. My humidity would drop way to low when lights were on- like 20-30% RH, add co2 to that equation and you get droopy unhealthy looking plants. Following the VPD chart indoors is one of the most important things if you want big yields / healthy looking plants. I bought a fogger to help keep humidity up while lights on.

Try scoping for russets, and sending in some soil samples to logans before you conclude on fusarium.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
When I had russets and thrips, the tips of top leaves looked burnt and brown. This is what broad mite damage on GG4 looks like. You really need to look closely under microscope. I only saw one or two per leaf, and plants were completely screwed.

 
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