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What percentage of RH(humidity) should ones grow room(s) be at to avoid mold?

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
I am not being argumentative here but this statement is false. At least in my particular set up it is. other factors like where you live, time of year and size of your space are points you have to consider, I live in southern midwest and I have my dehumidifier set to kick on right when the lights go out. Usually, my RH is around 55% to 60% right before the lights kick off then literally, in about 30-45 minutes my RH has dropped to the low 40% range. I have it set on a timer to run 30 minutes on 60 minutes off and repeat. This keeps the RH in check in a range of 40% to 43% till the lights kick on then I don't run the dehumidifier during lights on and the RH never goes above 55%. Trying to get the most out of the equipment I have from an energy/efficiency stand point. During the late stages of flower when the fruits get fatter I will run the dehumidifier to keep the RH 45% and below till harvest. Been doing it this way grow after grow with no issues.

Peace
What temps are you running with lights on? Are you shooting for VPD parameters? I did say humid air!
 
What temps are you running with lights on? Are you shooting for VPD parameters? I did say humid air!

When the lights are on the temps in my current grow are right at 77 F degrees or 25 C. This is top of the canopy. I took your statement with RH in mind not VPD. I was commenting on my particular situation in that the current ambient air isn't humid where I am. So, perhaps I jumped the gun on that. My apologies! I have read on VPD and it seems pretty involved. Can you explain in simple terms how the understanding of getting VPD dialed in can improve the overall grow cycle. That would be nice.

Thanks!
 

Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
Depends in what phase of a growth...

in vegetative humidity can be 60-70%,with good air circulation and exchage
of inner tent air nothing to worry about.. but when buds start to grow humidity
needs to go down at 50% or less.. in last week of flowering am like to sees
under 40% to be on a safe side if we talk molds..

anyway if i load too much water in last weeks of flowering then some strains
know to show gnarly bud... molds usually progress from medium down to upstairs
climbing on buds,thats why biodynamics use Horstail tea for preventing a molds,
spraying him in late flowering-fruiting to prevent grey mold-botrytis,PM,etc..

they spray hole plant starting with buds,lower branches and gradually go down
spraying hole stalk to her base in a ground..

Exchanging a PH of leaf-stem surface is best weapon for mold fighting... if a surface is not of right PH molds dont have a chance to start their spores,cant attach to surface and since then plants are unaffected by them.. easy and organic trick that revives
affected plant or clones and protects them against molds..

Horstail tea and lower RH helps a lot in a fight against molds...
 

Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
Clones affected by funghal disease...


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Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
Clones that was treated with Horstail tea... they was same affected but was revive
with a use of tea.. sprayed 3 days in row for best results..



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As you can sees they are saved and grow further tough there was a moment no one
of you will belive they will survive.. not even me how they was hitted with funghi..

but a Horstail is a great tool of conscioss grower that is not interested in dangerous
agro protectives but rely on nature where you can collect this plant for free..


Wish only best
 

Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
Is this used on perfect healthy plants as a preventative or only when you see symptoms or an onset of fungus/mold?

Thanks



You can do both ways... like preventive sprayed on buds in late flowering and as a cure to heal them in any stage of growth..
 

mack 10

Well-known member
Veteran
Oh really? Good to know, thx GS.

Depends in what phase of a growth...

in vegetative humidity can be 60-70%,with good air circulation and exchage
of inner tent air nothing to worry about.. but when buds start to grow humidity
needs to go down at 50%

Exchanging a PH of leaf-stem surface is best weapon for mold fighting... if a surface is not of right PH molds dont have a chance to start their spores,cant attach to surface and since then plants are unaffected by them.. easy and organic trick that revives
affected plant or clones and protects them against molds..

Horstail tea and lower RH helps a lot in a fight against molds...


What pH range? 6.5+?
 

Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
Exchanging a PH of a leaf surface... we dont talk about PH in soil medium..

spraying Horstail tea on plant leafes,buds and stems will made them alkalic and thats
why mold,funghi spores cant attach self for this kind of treated surface or medium..

Am never measured what is PH of Horstail tea but i bet its good alkalic..
 
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